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Found 7 results

  1. Struanh94

    1998 BMW E39 535i V8 Manual £3500 NE66

    Hello, For sale is my 1998 (Pre-Vanos) E39 535i V8, with the rare 5 speed Manual Gearbox, finished in the classy Biarritz Blue. Having been on the look-out for a well-maintained M62 V8 Manual for some time, I jumped at opportunity to acquire this car when it came on the market around 3 months ago. However, I have recently bought another car, and this combined with the fact that I will be working from home for the foreseeable future with no commute, means I cannot justify keeping this car. The car has covered 184K miles with only 2 previous owners. It comes with FSH, MOT until August 2021, and has clearly been well maintained. (There are 19 Service Stamps in the Booklet) There is also a large folder of receipts, showing the extensive maintenance which has been performed on the car over the years. A summary of the most recent / significant work performed on the car (all with receipts to prove): - Recent Engine Oil and Filter change (Sep 2020) - X2 new Avon ZV7 Tyres (Jul 2020) - New Front & Rear ABS Sensors (Aug 2020) - Both Rear Shock Absorbers replaced (Jul 2019) - Front Lower Suspension Arms, Wishbones, Anti-Roll Bar (Sep 2019) - New Bosch Battery (Jan 2019) - Rocker Cover Gaskets (Feb 2018) - Alternator (Feb 2016) - Starter Motor (Dec 2016) - Rear roll-bar links (May 2015) - Coil Pack (May 2015) - Bonnet Respray (Aug 2015) - Alternator (Sep 2011) - Clutch and Flywheel (Feb 2008 – 140k) Cosmetically the car is generally very clean for its age, although there are a few small patches of surface-level rust emerging as is pictured in the photos. Points a new owner would want to address: - The car consumes a very small amount of coolant. Previous owner advised it needs a top-up every 6-800 miles. - Minor oil leak (likely rear main seal) The car is located in Northumberland, NE66. £3,500 ONO
  2. R10HWN

    I NEED HELP!!

    Can anyone help me source a black M Sport E39 (2002) bumper with PDC and headlight washers? I’ve cracked mine (in the photo)!!
  3. Hi guys, Had my E39 a few weeks now. I love it! Spent quite a few years loving my E46s, but I am now converted to the E39. Now I'm a bit obsessed with spec. I love a highly specced car. My current 523 is poverty specced, so I will be looking out for a 528i or 530i SE in Biarritz blue also, but with: Comfort Seats Heated Seats Glass Sunroof Rear Blind Side Rear Blinds Rear folding seats Shadowline Anyone got all this on an SE? Or want to sell? Has to be a manual. Also, having done some E39 research, the 530i is very similar in performance to the V8 535i it seems. Or is it not? Some more pics of my lovely 523i. IMG_0828 by Motion Limited, on Flickr IMG_0825 by Motion Limited, on Flickr IMG_0823 by Motion Limited, on Flickr
  4. RACING DYNAMICS K38 based on an E34 535i SE SOLD First Reg 19/06/1990, 95000 miles - GENUINE, MOT until 8th Feb 2018 I have owned this car for 7 ½ years now and done less than 10k miles in it. Over this time it has been slowly developed into a very quick track day car which still has it’s full interior installed. Many people are very surprised how quick it is around Bedford Autodrome, my preferred circuit, this is due to the suspension and brakes more than the power/torque. It will go even faster if it is lightened further by removing interior trim etc….. I don’t want to do this. I am only selling it as a very close friend has sold me his very well sorted and fully stripped out track day E46 M3… he is after a Caterham now. I have 3 other cars as well so can’t hang on to the E34, much as I would like to. Racing Dynamics are the only none German tuner of BMW motorcars. Based in Italy with an American Division in California, they are still tuning BMW’s today. Most famous for shoe horning a K55 V12 engine into an E36. This car has been featured in 3 different car magazines over the years the first being Top Car in 1992, Performance BMW in 1999 and Total BMW in 2009, I have copies for the new owner. This car was originally owned by the Racing Dynamics Agent, Formula One Accessories based near Brands hatch. I have not seen another Racing Dynamics E34 in the UK, and have posted on various forums to see if there are other ones about, but to no avail…. this car is super rare, possibly unique in the UK. The original Spec for this car was an M30 engine bored out to 3.8 with a 90mm crankshaft mated to lightweight con rods and forged pistons with low friction rings, RD Spec camshaft and RD’s own chip fitted to the Motronic ECU, Exhaust is RD’s 6 Branch Stainless Manifold which is real work of art, with a stainless system. Fitted with an LSD and an M5 Final drive this car very quick through the gears. Diff oil was changed in 2013 @ 90,762 miles Genuine Racing Dynamics Rocker Cover, Oil Filler Cap, Gear Knob, Mats, Strut brace, Sill plates and Steering Wheel are fitted. Along with the distinctive and beautiful Racing Dynamics Bodykit. Very Rare Factory Electric Glass Sunroof fitted. The car will also come with the original staggered 8.5J Front and 9.5J rear Racing Dynamics RGP Wheels with road tyres. A full set of 4 Racing Dynamics RGP 8.5J tyres fitted with BTCC Slicks that have some life left, and a set of BMW Contours with BTCC wets that also have some life left. During my ownership I have replaced/fitted the following, a lot of it in the last two years. Brakes:- Front – Brand NEW Ceika 6 Pot calipers with Stainless steel pistons and Anti Knock back springs, fully floating 330 x 32 vented discs, running EBC Yellow stuff pads, £1600.00 + Import tax. Spare set of AP Racing Pads included. Rear – Fitted vented rear discs and calipers from an M5/540i running EBC Yellow Stuff pads, Spare set of pads included. Braided Lines all round, Running Motul RBF660 Dot 4 fluid….. no boiling or loss of pedal even after 10+ laps of Bedford, changed early 2017 when the 6 pots were fitted. Suspension:- BC Racing fully adjustable Coilover Suspension front and rear with Adjustable Camber plates with spherical bearing top mounts. Extended Adjusters on rear shocks into rear cabin, Car has been set up on KDS and handles superbly. Over £600 in parts. Lowered steering arm mount to reduce bump steer Most of the suspension has been polybushed with Powerflex bushes. Genuine Racing Dynamics Adjustable Anti-Roll bars fitted front and rear, these are the thickest you can buy for an E34, The front bar is 27 mm with 3 adjustment points and shortened drop links. The rear bar is 19 mm with 2 adjustment points and adjustable heim joint drop links.. Cost around £650 with import taxes Safety:- New XL Bucket seats with runners have been fitted to VAC Motorsport Floor mounts, the drivers seat shown is not coming with the car as it was custom made for my size, XXXL and is going in the M3, I will fit another one before handing over to a new owner. This lot is over £1000 with import taxes. Sparco 3 Point Harness – passenger side currently needs the rear mount point sorting, may get this done before sale, The Std retracting fronts seatbelts are also still fitted and useable for normal journeys, Harness can be very quickly removed so rear passengers can be accommodated. Battery cut out fitted with anti-theft facility Anderson Jump start Plug fitted. Others bits replaced/fitted:- Cosmo Racing Short shift kit K&N Panel filter New Clutch Slave cylinder 2017 New in tank fuel pump 2017 New Propshaft Donut 2017 New Thermostat New Throttle cable Replacement battery Magnecor 7mm Leads with distributor cap, and rotor fitted at same time. Becker CD player with Ipod Connection, Upgraded Hertz Component speakers. Engine immobiliser. In my ownership always run on Mobil 1 motorsport oil and super unleaded Probably lots more that I have forgot. 2 sets of keys, large A4 folder of bills, lots of old MOTs to support the mileage along with lots of old tax discs, the 3 feature magazines and a Racing Dynamics period brochure. Bad points, please remember this car is 27 years old and has been used as a track car, it is not a garage/show queen:- Headlights have some chips/cracks from debris being flung up on track days – I have a second hand set to replace them with and was only going to replace them once actual glass fell out of the ones on the car, still passes MOT though with this. Rust on both offside door trailing corners – I have 2 complete replacement doors to fix this Front bumper has blisters in the paint where moisture has got in and has caused it to bubble and peel. Front nearside fog light out of line due to badger strike on the infamous Berkshire Pistonheads “Badger Run” Hoon. Nearside slide locating bracket to bumper also broken due to this, I have the replacement parts to fix it, bumper just needs removing to do it, you wouldn’t know it was damaged to look at it though. Paint and some interior parts are starting to show signs of sun/heat damage as it is parked outside when not in use. The price reflects its rarity and the investment made in the handling, brakes and safety, you only have to look at track M3 prices to realise they go for a lot more money than a std one. It could easily be put back to a std interior and with some fettling and paint would make a really nice interesting e34. Rare E34’s that have been for sale recently have been offered for much more money, the white Hartge H5s got to over 9k and did not sell I believe, I had spoken to the owner last year and he was talking about £15k plus, a number of Alpina B10 3.5’s have been 10K+. I am open to sensible offers, but don’t expect to knock off £1000’s. Test drives will be with me driving, I am happy to go to track day with a prospective purchaser at Bedford so they can see how well it goes. To arrange a viewing or chat call Robin on 07450 803804 Mobile, or email robmarrs@aol.com, I am not on the forum that often so don’t message me through this please.
  5. For sale is a used rubber boot that sits between air flow meter and intake manifold. Genuine BMW part number 13 54 1 722 847 - old part number 13541708878. Will fit M30 engined e34 5 series, e32 7 series and e24 6 series. It's in good used condition with just a small crack where the Idle Control Valve sits. Removed from my own 1990 e32 735i. Price is £15 including P&P or collection in person from New Milton Hampshire at a discounted price. Please check my other items for sale as I'm having a garage clear out.
  6. Hey all, So my eta 525e AUTO still refuses to start (from my previous threads). Changed almost all the ignition components, distributor cap, ECU, relays, sensors, etc etc. I still do not have any spark to the plugs hence a healthy turn over but no idle. So, i finally had a look into the bell housing where both the Speed sensor, and the Reference sensor are positioned. Because this was new to me when i first had the problem, i'm going to give as much detail as possible with the hope someone may stumble upon this thread in the future. The Speed and Reference sensors push into the bell housing of the gearbox between the torque converter and the flywheel/ring gear. They are both side by side on the nearside of the car, behind the airbox. They are both connected to the engine harness and these connectors can be accessed by removing the airbox and can be seen attached to the block side by side. Grey connector plugs into the sensor pushed into hole B and the black connector connectors to sensor pushed into hole D. Both sensors are the same part number (12141710668) and are interchangeable but you can not get the connectors confused as they must go to the correct sensor relative to the hole identified by B and D. This is what i can see when i look into the reference sensor hole and a i believe my trigger pin has snapped because everything else has been changed and i get quite funky results when the engine is turned over and a AC Volts are measured across the sensor. See Duncan's amazing guide on how to check this if you do not know already below. MASSIVE thanks to Duncan for this, has helped me and tonnes of other people. So the sensor that i discovered was faulty was the reference sensor, which goes into the hole closest to the road. The lowest hole. This sensor was absolutely shot, it had no resistance so was not detecting anything. I changed it for a working new one which i can confirm works as it was tested in a university lab using an oscilloscope. Correct resistance and AC sine wave replicated by a spinning neodymium magnet. This has not solved my issue so this is what i see when i look into the hole. I need help and peoples experienced opinion on this as its the first time i'm investigating it: Now analysing this photo, reveals to me.... this does not look right. Although it does not look aggressively snapped, it does not look long enough!? The only angle i could take the photo forces it to be taken bias to the front of the engine so you can even see the ring gear. If you look at it from the angle the sensor would read, you can barely see the pin! I've drawn out roughly what you would see if you looked at it head on.. So, does everyone agree that this does not look right? Has my pin snapped or is this normal? As the flywheel rotates, it will not swipe across the sensors face/tip. Also, an interesting observation i made of the old, faulty sensor backs up the theory that the pin has snapped. The old sensor has swollen out creating a dome to its face (interesting?...). There are also scrape marks on its face and a dent to suggest its been grinding against something. Wondering if anyone know about this, if they have changed a flywheel on these cars. As the engine rotates and you pass the trigger pin on the flywheel, you periodically come across large tabs of the flywheel that pass by the sensor which are NOT trigger pins. They are just large areas of the flywheel that match the length of the trigger pin. These have long scratches on them like the rust of the wheel has been removed. Long lines of exposed fresh metal as if the sensors swollen tip has made them. So, that is where i am at currently. What do people think? Is this enough to pull the transmission out and replace the flywheel? Has the trigger pin snapped off? Is this normal what i am showing and if so, where would my next area of investigation be? Is changing both sensors enough to move on and look elsewhere? ALL help and opinions are immensely appreciated, i really am stuck. I also hope some of this information will inspire someone else with the same problem and help them repair their own fault!! Kindest regards, Darren - From Brighton, UK
  7. Hi All, I'm not really sure where and how to start this thread but I thought I'd give it a go.... I've always been a fan of BMW's. I don't know why but they've always been cars which I've looked at and thought "I'd love to drive one of those". And now I have two. But that's besides the point. The one car that's always stood out for me personally was the E39, I've always loved the look of it, and still do, even though my current daily driver is a 530d GT. So one day, I thought what the heck, let's get a relatively cheap (up to £1k) E39 to fix, repair and learn. I ended up finding a P reg 1997, BMW 535i (had to be either an M or a V8) with 135k miles on it for £760. What color you ask, Glacier Green (missus is unsure). Also, if anybody could point me to the name of the alloys in the post below, that would be greatly appreciated! You might be by now wondering where I am going with all this: Well, the idea is (as the title suggests) to take it completely apart, add the bits that I want, and put it back together. And this forum has had a massive part to play in all this. The hours I've spent on this forum trying to learn as much as possible about the car is ridiculous. Anyway, back to the car! So what am I planning on doing with it? Well, here is a list: First up; the interior, I didn't much like the standard leather seats so I ended up getting some alcantara ones off flea-bay for £50, along with an immaculate rear bench and door carts. They are in the process of getting fitted as the new seats have the Yellow connector and the old ones were black due to the age of the car, no biggie, plenty of guides avail on here. Also, the seats had a slight rip which I am in the process of repairing. Next step was to disassemble the whole interior (dash, center console and so on), because I want to remove the armrest with the telephone, fit a new gaitor for the handbrake (ordered from Germany) and fix the air con, it isn't working. Oh, and the glove box was damp and the sound deadening material was missing from the top dash! This is about as far as I have got for now, but I am planning on doing a lot more, like fixing the rust on the wheel arch, changing discs/pads (not sure if I should go bigger aka 324mm over 298/6), possibly a suspension overhaul (Eibach?), fix the boot lock, fix the vibrations under acceleration around 30mph, fix the knocking noise under acceleration and do a general service of all serviceable parts. From a bodywork perspective I am looking to upgrade the front to hellas, change the grill and kidneys on the bumper and possibly fix a better yet stock looking exhaust, possibly with the inclusion of an M Sport rear bumper. And potentially terraclean the engine, as emissions seem to have gone up for some reason (possibly cat, need to check). I know i have gone on a bit but I hope to keep all you lovely E39ers (and others of course) up to date on progress. In the meantime, feel free to have a look at my pics (excuse the poor quality, used my phone to take them) and comment, criticize, guide and help me fumble my way along this path of rebuilding the best car ever made (not my words!) Lastly, I hope this project can inspire someone out there to do the same and rebuild one of these modern classics as you won't regret it!!
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