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Found 94 results

  1. Hi guys is it possible to swap my 2005 E60 525D turbo to one from a 2005 530D will it work ? Will it boost ok has anyone done this swap ? And lastly is it worth it ? Thanks
  2. afo99

    Diesel Additives

    Hi all, I know this was asked a lot of times, but just wondering if the principle applies to the newer engines on the 2.0l B47 or 3.0l B57. I used to add Redex Professional Diesel Fuel System Cleaner to my older cars like the Vauxhall astra 1.6 Diesel, Ford focus, etc. And I do see a difference in mpg slightly and it starts up better. But wondering if anyone has being doing so on the new G30/G31's since they put a label to not add any additives? I have been using shell v power diesel, as I know it has some additives, but I can't be using that all the time as it eventually adds up. So I was speculating to put in normal shell diesel and fuel additives once every couple of months. Let me know what you guys think?
  3. Cadwell Parker

    Thermostat issues now resolved

    Quite a saga recently following the remap I had done on the F11. Nothing really to do with the remap itself but having read another forum member talking about their engine running cooler following remapping I was keeping a closer eye on things. Just to confuse matters the first drives following the remap coincided with the onset of the recent cold weather so it wasn’t easy to tell for sure what was going on. I’d suspected for a while the presumably original thermostat wasn’t quite working as it should, the car seemed to take a while to get up to temperature and would drop quite quickly when rolling downhill for any length of time but the car ran perfectly otherwise, easily getting up 96 degrees when running at speed with regens happening roughly every 600 miles or so I’d been happy to leave it be. The car certainly seemed to be running a couple of degrees cooler than I had expected following the remap but motorway speeds or a constant uphill gradient would see the temperature climb to 94/95 degrees which was just below pre remap figures so went some way towards confirming cooler running. After running with the remap for a couple of days, heading home after finishing work one night when admittedly it was particularly cold the engine took 18 miles/20 mins running to reach 80 degrees. This seemed excessive so deciding the cooler running remap had tipped the thermostat over the edge making the car struggle even more to warm up I set about finding a replacement. A quote for a genuine item from a dealer close to this forum was rather higher than I’d hoped but a visit to a well known internet ‘auction’ site turned up a more favourably priced item from a well known brand of good repute so I went ahead and ordered it later arranging for the local BMW friendly garage not far from me to fit it. After fitting it soon became obvious the new stat was not working as intended. In fact it was worse than the faulty one it was replacing. The car was now struggling to get above 50 degrees anywhere on my 45 mile drive to work with the top radiator hose getting warm after 5 mins running and 35 degrees on the gauge. Returning to the garage a few days later they asked if I wanted them to get a price for a genuine one from the local dealer. The price came back almost half of the previous genuine quote I’d had and not much more than the ‘bargain’ I thought I’d bought. I asked them to order and fit the genuine stat. It’s been a week or so since having the new stat fitted and now all is well. The car warms up faster but I was concerned to find the top radiator hose still getting warm before the engine was anywhere close to fully warmed up. My understanding was it should stay cold until the thermostat opens but when I mentioned this to the garage they said they they’re happy it’s working properly so I’m trusting their judgement. The new stat is keeping the engine running in a much narrower temperature range. I’ve yet to see coolant temps above 90 degrees. That was with the outside temp up to 8 degrees so nowhere near as cold as it has been. There’s a downhill section of road I drive when heading home from work where the car will more or less roll on over-run for 3 miles. Even when it was still -4 degrees outside if I switched off the heater and let the car roll it would hold its temperature at 87 degrees for most of the way down, only dropping to 86 at the last 100 yards or so so it seems to be doing its job pretty well. So the conclusion so far is it looks as though the remap may have made the car run slightly cooler but the new stat is working well at keeping the temperature under better control. I’ve had to call back to the garage to have a splash of coolant added but they’ve not given me a bill for the genuine stat yet. ‘Just run it for another week to make sure it’s ok then come back and see us’. Fair enough. The other stat has been returned as faulty and the cost refunded.
  4. James Austin

    E39 530d map sensor issue

    Good day I am having an issue with my car( e39 530d manual) where the map sensor plug was cut off and a new one was taped on by a workshop, the issue is that when the map sensor is plugged in the dde light comes on and the throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive and the car has a high idle of about 1000rpm constantly. If you unplug the map sensor the car starts and runs just fine but is lacking alot of power. I would like to know what color cable goes where on the map( the sensor on the back of the inlet manifold) sensor plug so i can know if the workshop has messed up the wiring or if my map sensor is dead. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. cheers
  5. Has anyone had this before? Was it an easy fix (new mirror glass or similar)?
  6. Hi guys, thought I'd document the progress on my E34 Touring M57 Swap, started at the beginning of the year and hoping to have it finished by the end of Spring. This is not intended to be a guide but a documentation of the build for any future owners, I'm more than happy to help with any questions/queries but won't have answers or solutions to every question as still trying to figure out things myself. The problem with the M57 swap into an E34 is that information is very limited on the internet, the conversion has been done many times in and around Europe but finding information on RHD swapped cars proved to be difficult. Immediate issues we discovered was the clearance of the steering box with the turbo, the sump will also collide with the subframe due to rear mounted pan, amongst many other things such as wiring, propshaft etc, thankfully the information I was able to find on the internet cleared up some of these issues which I will detail below. I'm hoping to be able to retain the 6spd and source a 95+ HIGH Interior Loom so that the E46 check control system and anything associated with it can be used, I've also managed to source a "short" engine harness that allows for the M57 to be ran in any situation, all the wires are labelled and it has wiring for the ECU, Canbus system, RPM signal and much more, if anyone is interested in this let me know and I'll point you the right way. A bit of information on the car and the donor car.. 1994 E34 525tds Touring -M51D25 -Calypso-Red -Manual 5spd -126000 miles 2004 E46 330d (204) -M57D30TU -EGR, DPF, Swirl Flap Delete. Stainless 2.5" Full Exhaust -Dyno Printout @ 321bhp/611nm (unsure how accurate this is) -Manual 6spd -172000 miles --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First job was to remove the old M51D25 from the Touring, this engine is going to be used in an E30 Touring that my friend is putting together, it's a fairly easy process but both the engine and engine bay was completely covered in oil and grease, definitely a messy job but the engine and box were eventually removed aswell as any other related wiring/ancillaries. I'll be spending some time on making the engine bay nicer later. For the M57 I’d definitely recommend having a full donor car as you’ll want to keep a few bits for the conversion, here's a rough list of what I kept and what I found that’ll I need. -Full Running gear and ancillaries (Engine, gearbox, propshaft) - (I'll be using the E46 6spd GS6-53DZ gearbox with a custom prop) -Power steering lines -Engine loom, fuse/relay box -Throttle pedal as it’s electronic -ECU (DDE) -Radiator and hoses (If not going uprated) -Intercooler and piping -E38 730d Sump/Oil Pan with pick up. -E38 passenger (cold side) engine mount -E34 525tds driver (hot side) engine mount (See below) The factory air box setup was cut as it is moulded as part of the valve cover and can’t be removed, it also tidied up the engine a bit and allows for turbo piping to come upwards, I took the MAF sensor off the housing (this will be modified later) and cut the plastic cowl with a dremel up to the bolt channels for the valve cover, gave the block a clean and paint whilst it was all off. The standard turbo manifold can simply be flipped the other way round as the ports/flanges match up perfectly. The 330d M57 sump is rear panned, this causes issues with clearance as it sits directly over the subframe, I used a E38 730d oil pan and pick up as these are front panned, the sump will however still need slight modification as it still doesn’t clear the subframe fully, still waiting to do this myself but will update with pictures once it’s done. The 730d was never available in the UK so I had to source one from Lithuania, think I was about £400 all in for the mounts and sump inc shipping. I then removed the original passenger side engine mount and used the 730d engine mount after cleaning up the threads, the block is universal between all M57's so all the mounting holes are the same but the original mount used different holes, some wd40 and a bolt wound in and back a few times worked fine. For the driver side the original TDS mounts were used, I had to drill out the holes slightly with a 10mm drill bit for the original engine mount bolts as they are slightly too big.. Next up is to remove the the sump again and have it modified slightly to clear the subframe fully. Will update in the near future!
  7. Hey there! I'm having some problems with my e39 530d :/. It's stuttering when driving, it has power and everything but it's just not running smoothly. I have changed: 2 injectors, the fuel pressure regulator which sits on top of high pressure fuel pump, the fuel pump underneath the driver, fuel filter and also the sensor on top of the fuel filter and still after all of this, it's running smoothly. Could the vortex breather be the case here? I changed the small filter which sits in the case but maybe the valve that's next to it might be problematic, could that be the case?
  8. Ecobasic

    E39 530D Manual Swap Coding

    Hello dear Community, First of: English isn't my main language - if i make mistakes i'm sorry! I recently bought a E39 530D Auto that got a manual swap. I noticed the cruise control doesnt work and it shows me on the Speedometer that the Gearbox is running in emergency mode. I've seen a few threads talking about the coding to make it work, but not detailed enough for me since i'm a newby in coding. I have all the programms and i know how to save .man files and get them in the car, but i don't know how to code the complete car with the 3 new parameters. I know this asks for a very long posts that clarifys everything but i hope i can find some help here! Best regards, Michael
  9. Old Codger

    Alpina B5, I want one.

    6 months in and getting bored with my G31 530d XDrive. Yes, overall, it’s a supremely competent package, clings to the road like superglue, comfortable, reasonably quick (esp’ from a standing start), fairly economical but somehow strangely unfulfilling despite its talent for effortlessly munching up miles. I’ve gotton used to its cossetting and imperious laid-back manner whilst in comfort mode, its usefulness as a garden shed and its grunt when the boot is stuffed to the point where the air springs are set to burst. It’s not without short comings which the motoring journo’s seem to either overlock or fail to pick up on in reviews. For instance: The a/c isn’t powerful enough when it’s been sunbathing in a car park - takes a fair while to chill the interior. If the driver’s window is down a bit when wet, below 70mph rainwater pours in off the roof falling over the window switches and me. Insufficient USB ports. HK sound system good but prone to distortion above 50%. Seems deleting individual loaded tracks from the music collection isn’t possible? Not as roomy in the back as claimed, perhaps reviewers are all 5ft 4in --- unlike 6’2” self. Gear changes not so smooth when suddenly floored – more often than not will kick down into too lower gear then has to come back up one. Drops back into “D” too quickly when using the paddles. People wax lyrical about the iDrive and infotainment systems, all I can say is, if it’s that good other manufactures systems must be pretty dire! Some of the plasticky bits in the boot and lower cabin are total crap and break off. Trying to clean between the front seats and transmission tunnel is impossible. Now full of inaccessible mouldy McD’s fries and fag lighters. Generally insufficient cubby holes to stow stuff. Things end up scattered around the cabin after a spirited drive. Run flats? Bloody noisy but essential I suppose. Dives excessively under heavy breaking, rolls more than necessary when cornering hard. Skips & clatters a smidge over certain types of lumpy roads, very little steering feedback. Despite the above gripes the bodyshell and basic underpinnings must be good as they find their way into the M5 and 550s. I’m told the latest M5 is bordering on civilised despite its supercar harassing talents. Apparently, (according to those who have one), it is the perfect compromise between a road and track car. Unfortunately for me, they don’t make it in estate form. So, having had a look at options for performance estates I decided the devil you know……..…. and ended up in the local Alpina shop. After 1/2hr of interrogation by the salesman and slightly unsure what I was expecting I finally got to ease myself into a B5 touring. Immediately familiar, everything in the same places, remarkably similar in feel. So much so, I could have found everything even if blindfolded. I would liken my car to having been trimmed with army boot leather whereas Alpina seem to have taken the skin from virgins’ thighs. Delicious, a tactile and visual delight oozing quality and craftsman ship. Lifting the bonnet is an experience of its own. My engine bay is akin to the guts of a washing machine painted black. This thing was like looking into the bowels of a space shuttle. How the techies work on it I can only imagine, it is just crammed with “stuff”. The ambiance of the cabin and technological marvels of the engine bay weren’t the highlight of my visit however, that delight was reserved for the test drive. Signing a load of paperwork, going outside to find the demonstrator lurking somewhere in a sea of lesser models took around 20 mins. At first glance an Alpina does not stand out with only the spokey wheels to give it away. In fact, if you swapped the alloys and peeled the oversize lettering off the boot sticking 520D in its place it’d be a real Q car. The key fob was the remote park version and therefore rather chunky. It did unlock the vehicle though, so I lobbed it into the drink holder, slipped my frame into the car and started adjusting the seat. Seems virtually every conceivable option is loaded into an Alpina as standard (given the price one would hope so) making finding the ideal settings a major exercise in tweaking. Finally getting myself comfy and arriving at the settings nearest to those of my trusty wagon I fired up the engine. Now, whilst my diesel starts instantly and sounds strangely like a muted diesel, the Alpina shuddered while churning before rumbling into life and then proceeded to emit a faint bass throbbing sound. - Nice A quick few words of advice from the salesman, close the door and off we go time! I had to keep checking the tacho to make sure it was running; it obviously was because the steering worked but I did find it uncannily quiet at tick over. Manoeuvring off the lot involved a bit of reversing and weaving immediately revealing the reverse turning circle to be tighter than in mine. Rear wheel steer? I don’t know but the cars turning point felt quite different. Out onto the road in comfort mode, gingerly press the throttle, slight acceleration, press harder more acceleration, nothing out the ordinary, no noise no drama. Junction ahead, press brake pedal, heavier, but same gradual retardation. Out on to main road, heavy traffic, pootle along at 40mph but become aware of the ride. Far more insulated from road noise than mine but far more communicative. Surface, camber, manholes, ruts, you feel them all, but they are just so distant and remote it’s like reading braille. The poise and ride even at a lowly 40mph tell you this car is special. Now the best bit, dual carriage way, lot of traffic on the inside, clear outside, 50 limit. I’m doing 45 and know it will shortly become derestricted, mirror, signal manoeuvre into outside lane. A Vauxhall Agila with a young lady at the wheel comes up behind, she tries to climb into the boot. Pull left paddle x2, drops into 2nd (I think) rev counter rises to around 3500 rpm, press throttle hard. Gentle shove in back, no noise, keep foot down, shoves harder, little bit of a growl, keep foot down, now I think my ears are being ripped off, I’m slammed in seat with a distant cacophony of snarling exhaust and induction roar for a sound track. Glance in mirror, Agila a speck in distance, glance at HUD, think “SHIT!” and slow down from the highly illegal speed I’d hit within 5 seconds of launch. Large island ahead, effortlessly brake down to a standstill, look right, wait for gap in traffic and adopt 530d traffic island amusement mode. Knock stick into sport and floor it. Bloody hell! the Alp’ nearly broke my neck with the unexpected G force. I flew off like I couldn’t believe but totally without external drama turning 180 degrees back onto the dual carriageway I’d just travelled up. Astounding, the lateral G really got my neck yet I was still in full control of the car whilst the vehicle was deep within its capabilities. Gentle potter back to showroom with the speed limiter on! Words fail me. Just incredible how a 2-tonne motorised gentleman’s lounge can deliver such performance with such civility. If I was in a GTR or Porsche I’d expect a bit of drama and feedback, being hauled about the seat, bounced up and down with squeaking tyres, kicking steering and wiggling tail accompanied by snorting intakes and roarting exhaust. With the Alp’ ? Bit of “G”, (well a lot really) muted growling and general all round laid back serenity. Could have been a Bentley. That’s what got me, monstrous performance on tap yet indescribably civilised and unfussed. Just an incredible machine for the price, I really, really, want one despite the faults it will bring with it.
  10. Hello all, new to this forum and new to owning a 5-series, so please excuse any stupid comments I might make! I've recently bought a used 530d F11 (auto gearbox), it's a 2012 with around 65k miles. The car's great, and overall I'm more than happy, but I do have an issue that may or may not be a problem. I'd appreciate anyone's advice or suggestions, especially if they've experienced something similar. When slowing down and reaching a speed of around 15-20mph, I hear a small rumbling noise and feel a tiny vibration. I also notice that the car decelerates a little at the same time as the noise is present (like you'd only just touched the brake pedal very gently, but I'm not braking). Also, the noise is cyclic and not constant, lasting only a few seconds and occuring maybe once or twice from 20mph until the car is almost stationary. The rumble/deceleration lasts for more than one rotation of the wheels, typically around 2-seconds in duration during which the car covers something like 4-5 car lengths of distance. The noise will then stop, then a second or two later it will start again. This problem (if it is a problem?) occurs when I'm not braking but when I'm coasting down to a slow speed. I would say the timing of the noise/deceleration seems to coincide with the autobox changing down, but it lasts longer than any gear change and I don't feel any knocks or jerks. It's hard to place the source of the noise as it's fairly quiet, but if I had to guess I'd say maybe the exhaust? I've dabbed the brakes when the noise is present - but it makes no difference to the noise. I only get this at slow speeds/low gears as described above. At all other speeds, everything is fine all the time I'm pretty sure it only occurs when the engine is cold and I'm withing the first couple of miles of the journey. Once the car's running at normal temps I don't seem to get it anymore. It occurs regularly at the start of journeys (I mean to say, it's not an intermittent issue). I've tried putting the gear shift into sport mode, and I don't seem to get this problem (although I may need to try this more often to be 100% on this) I've tried manually selecting the gears with the paddle shift and holding second gear until the car comes to a stop. This seems to stop it occurring, but not all the time, it is difficult to be certain because often the gearbox will automatically revert back to full-auto when the rpm drops too low and it wants to change gear. In all the above the car's been in normal/comfort setting. I'm not sure if this is normal (?), but it does feel kinda weird and not something I ever got driving my old work's E61 which was also a 530d with auto transmission. My car has the efficient dynamics system and I was wondering if this maybe has something to do with it? Also, I've read something about exhaust valves in these cars, opening/shutting to cut emissions or help warm the engine quicker? I don't really understand their operation, but could this be the cause? Sorry for such a long post
  11. Harminder

    BMW GT530d (2013 Model)

    Hi everyone, First time posting a query - I own a BMW GT 530d (2013 Model) and recently noticed that when applying the handbrake (on and off) there a clinking noise made when it engages/disengages the handbrake......... any thoughts as to what this could be.......does the handbrake need adjusting? Thanks. Harminder
  12. Infantry140

    530d 142kw terrible engine sound

    Hey guys, i have fixed rail pressure and everything around that, but here i come with new problem... When i rev the engine to around 2k it starts making this noise, up to 3k, then FUEL INJECT. SYSTEM error comes up. changed already: - regulator valve on HP pump - rail pressure sensor - pressure sensor on fuel filter - fuel filter - fuel hoses but not BMW OEMs, universal ones - fuel pump under the car PIERBURG here is the video of it: Thanks for the input
  13. BIGYIN

    LCM111b e39 530d problem

    Hi newbie here need help with LCM 111b ,got an identical numbered one.Fitted all connectors and all lights work but dash indicates right rear bulb out, there is not, was told it needs coding ,thought ok put it all back together, now with problem front right halo on left rear tail on binnacle lights on and wipers do random sweeps.No lights, indicators, god knows what else.milage reads correct.Does anyone know if coding will fix this, dont want to pull it apart again my knees, back,and possibly sanity at risk. Im in south EDINBURGH anyone nearby that do coding? or can recomend who to contact apart from STEALERSHIP!!! Thanks BIGYIN
  14. Hey guy n gals, Just inherited my brothers 2007 530D SE Pre LCI and although the car is new to me, im not new to forums as ive been a member of a few over the years with my previous cars. Just looking to see what noob steps i should take with the car for maintenance checks etc like these swirl flap replacements ive been reading about. Also looking to replace the halo light bulbs as one side doesnt appear to work and also ive read about these drainage channels that need to be checked too. I've been mainly a jap car guy over the last decade or so with a list of cars including MR2 turbos, Integra Type R's, Celica GT4, Civic Type R etc but alas i need comfort these days now im getting older. Regards Fizz Ohh and as is expected of a newbie... some pics. p.s) yes the engine bay needs a good clean of all the crap and leaves... lol
  15. Hello all and hope you are all enjoying an extended weekend of sunshine. I have taken the plunge and put a small deposit on a very nice (well from pics and description) 2013 F11 with 3.0 D engine. I am told its just had EGR recall and had new intake manifold too. 100K on the clock and full BMW SH. I have checked MOT history and everything seems to stack up, the only fail was 2 years ago and it was only due to tyres so all looks good. Test drive on saturday and if all is OK will be taking it away. Its a private seller so I need to make sure its all 100% On another note, I am selling my 2006 E61 2.0D -what should I do if I still have it when I pick up new one? ie, will need to keep old one insured for test drives etc, already got 2 cars taxed and insured, cant really have 3 on the go! If anyone can advise on what I could get for the 2006, I would be grateful. I put it on ebay and have had some stupid offers. Its an SE with 164K full SH up to about 120K and self serviced by me since. Has had all the rear looms rewired, swirl flaps etc done. Very tidy with leather interior. Been offered £1200 which I have declined but I need it shifting before I have to change insurance.
  16. bullawayo

    Stage 2 E60 530D

    Hi Gents, I'm Matt, an automotive and systems engineer from Hampshire. I'm also an admin on E60/E61 Owners Club UK's facebook page. Been browsing for a while so thought I would post some pics of the current beater, my 530d. This is slightly disjointed but i'm not very good at documenting/taking photos as I do stuff - hopefully I will be better now! So, I bought a 530d SE on a 53 plate 2 years ago. FBMWSH and 90k, for the mighty sum of 4k. I do about 30k a year so needed something that would eat up the miles whilst still being a bit fun. Originally I planned on keeping this standard and having a toy seperately, but the more I drove this thing the more I fell in love with it. Bought it, got it home. Gave it a clean, chucked some spare wheels on as the 16s weren't cutting it The following day took it to my mates just over the Welsh border for a remap and so I could sort my swirl flaps out. Had pre-ordered the kit as I knew I wanted this model So swirl flaps deleted, EGR blanked, remap done. No DPF as pre-dpf. Instantly 100% better to drive!! Wheels were awful, 2 had cracked. Got rid and got some (similar) Japanese lightweight equivalents. BMW wheels are the worst for cracking. New wheel specs 19x8.5 and 19x.9.5 - 20mm front spacers 10mm rear. Chucked the wheels on, replaced the crank pulley as it was shot. Bought some prosport coilovers, used them before. Always been the best out of the "cheap" units available. Chucked them on The wheel colour wasn't doing it for me, gave them to my mate who powdercoated them. Colour is his own blend of hyper silver. Looking sorry for herself on the original wheels got the tyres on... Better! Painted the brake calipers, cleaned them up and regreased all 4: then just drove it for a while and did some maintenance bits (new brakes & fluid, full service etc)..I go all over the place with work! Some random pics... A guy I know came out and mopped the whole car. Did a sterling job - paintwork is suprisingly good! Missus drove the car once and scuffed the bumper....had it sorted by another friend Then I lost a load of recent photos.... I've since had all the window trims off and used BMW shadowline tape to black them out. Next step is hybrid turbo as mine is slowly dying. I also want to tint the windows and might end up throwing some money at it (new bumpers/wheels etc). Some of my previous cars:
  17. e60530dirl

    E60 530D issues

    I have a few issues with my e60 530d M Sport at present and I am hoping to resolve them so I am starting this thread and hopefully it can help people in the future once I have it resolved due to not finding a exact answer to my faults or threads across the internet leading that way and going unanswered bye the end ,hopefully it will be of benefit to somebody and I will learn some of the common faults and fixes etc. along the way. E60 530D 208 BHP model i.i.r.c. (early model anyway) car is unmapped all original with cat,egr and dpf. I was driving the car and it suddenly lost power as if it lost boost (turbo not working at all ,no smoke and happened in city driving at slow speeds , it may be limp mode) I have so far replaced the insides of the electronic actuator as that was the code I got when I checked the codes with INPA refitted it and it ran worse so we just disconnected it and left it alone for a few weeks and drove it with out it connected Also at the same time cleaned the DPF and EGR which were absolutely filthy We have now gone at the car again (Me and my Friend) and have done aqua cleaning of the inlet manifold swirl flap blank kit fitted and now can hear the turbo with a kind of slightly louder noise a whooo kind of noise but not really loud (but sounds like a split intercooler pipe to me but have seen on line its turbo blades) this may be the Turbo that is the problem but we are not replacing that yet and doing the other bits first Having taking everything apart to inspect the Turbo we have discovered that the seal on the intercooler to turbo pipe is shot and before we dissembled there is some oil at this point weeping / leaking from that join also noticed was some cracks in the manifold although it may not have been leaking yet we have fitted a ebay cast version on there now upon inspection of the Turbo it does not look oily or any play in the shaft I tried to be smart and bought a used turbo that was refurbed 1k miles ago of a breaker with out seeing it and it turns out the 2006 turbo and actuator are different so we are fitting my original turbo back on and hoping for the best again this may end up been the Turbo but we will see We are going to fit both thermostats tomorrow , and fuel filter also have cleaned out the DPF and CAT Clear codes and drive it and see what happens I have read online that keep clearing the codes over a certain amount of driving (we may do all this on the ramp) and then also force a dpf regen via software I own the car 2 years and have never replaced the thermostat so i think this is a issue The car doesn't seem to rev past 2.5k - 3k RPM ,im not sure if this is a limp mode the car has 115k miles on it and is in general good order and wasn't abused in its life the exhaust isnt very smokey either the exhaust was quiet hot on the pipes previously and the car inlet manifold and egr were extremely built up with carbon as was the DPF but I do short mileage generally so I assume that is the cause of that The breather has also been updated so it is not a gause issue MAF cleaned and tested etc. the current codes i seen after i reset the codes are (only reset once) dme/dde 4203 = glow unit error 4212 Glow Plug Cyl 1 - Activation Interrupted 4222 Glow Plug Cyl 2 - Activation Interrupted 4232 Glow Plug Cyl 3 - Activation Interrupted 4252 Glow Plug Cyl 5 - Activation Interrupted 4262 Glow Plug Cyl 6 - Activation Interrupted 480A DPF -Bank 1 4530- charge air pressure small turbo control deactivation I plan to replace the glow plugs soon also but im reading conflicting reports about whether dpf will regen with this fault or not battery went dead while working on it so not sure if some faults are from that either my biggest wonder is is the turbo gone or is it all the cause of a blocked dpf and although it has been cleaned is it because it is not doing a regen due to the thermostats so hopefully this will be answered over the next few days anyway sorry for the long winded post I will update when we get to the next part and see what we find. outside of that it has been extremely bulletproof except for mulf failing ,radio sound cutting in and out and cant connect to blue tooth were the symptoms to that (currently disconnected with a fibre optic loop attached until I decide what way to proceed) radio and cd player work again perfectly and MV2 wheels that are bent I assume due to run flats (I have purchased a fresher set to be fitted) water in area below battery (reason been to be found yet although I just heavily power washed the car so not entirely sure ) 2 parking sensors gone (not been done this time as want colour coded replacements) also have 2 front arms with a slight bit of play so we will replace them tomorrow air filter pollen filters oil and filter I plan to keep the car I have had e39 525i M Sport E34 525i 24V M sport E34 520i E34 520i Touring and a few 3 series trough the years 323i,320i,318i compact (all e36) I have had lots of other brands and cars but the 5 series has always been my favourite car and plan to keep this one as I always regretted any I sold on Cheers Colm
  18. Hi, sorry if this has been done before, but I have been scouring the net to no avail. 2008 LCI E61 530D 6 speed manual transmission. I gather I can use Fuchs Titan Sintofluid 75W-80. 1) What I'm not clear on is how much fluid I need to buy. Is it 2L or 3L? 2) What are the washer sizes for the fill and drain plug? 3) What are the torque specs for the fill and drain plug? Thanks
  19. Hi .... The new 530D M Sport arrived two weeks ago to replace the 520D ... all good so far, but one nagging intermittent issue. After unlocking the car, and when in 'standby status', I get the normal electronic whirs and buzzes and mirrors unfolding etc., what I have also heard on two or three occasions over the last few weeks is a much larger noise from behind the dashboard - a one or two second noise that I can only describe as sounding like an air compressor - definitely not the normal electrical sound I would expect. I've been trying to capture this on my phone but no luck so far. Any ideas what this could be and if this is 'normal'? Thanks!
  20. Firstly hello, new member here looking for an E60/61 (not too fussed) but interested to know what the physical differences are between the 3x 3l engine variants in both the pre and post LCI models. Basically I'm looking for a 535d but can't decide whether it's worth the extra premium for me. Should I consider the 530d or even the 525d and look at remapping and other mods? Ultimately, can I simply replace parts on a 525d to create a 535d and tune from there? Thanks in advance, Rob
  21. ogreCyques

    ECU Swap?

    I believe I have an issue with my ECU, the ABS light comes on for the self check upon start up when the car is cold. But if I turn the key on and off and on again the light won't come on any subsequent times. I've already tried a new ABS module and I've found ECUs on ebay cheap enough. What my question is will I brick anything by swapping an ECU and nothing else? I'm not very familiar with this model and its my only vehicle so I can't ship off the ECU for repairs. The vehicle is a 99 530d estate. I need this to get it to pass inspection.
  22. Hi everyone. Newbie here. I have a 530d e61 msport with partial electric heated seat pack. I am finding them uncomfortable on my lower back. Does anyone know if it's possible to retro fit lumbar support or change the seats for ones already fitted? If so is it an easy plug and play job?. Cheers
  23. Hi guys, im new to this. Recently bought a 530d e60 (2006), had the transmission fault come up on the dash. It's come up a few times and wondering has anyone else had these issues. Would a gearbox service do the job? Thanks! sadiq
  24. Parvus77

    Collection day!!

    Pretty terrible weather in the UK... but snow cannot stop collection day!!
  25. Mark1

    530d - XDrive or RWD?

    Hi all Does anyone know the typical mpg penalty of XDrive vs RWD on a 530d? Is the steering feel any different between the two? I typically do a 24 mile commute to work on motorways with the last 1 mile in town traffic. My current E Class Mercedes gets 43 to 48mpg on that run. I will be ordering a 530d pretty soon. Thanks
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