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Found 8 results

  1. Just posting this to help a new forum member get some identifying and sourcing a bowden cable for his rather rare right hand drive Alpina B10 3.0 AllRad which is based on the 525iX. https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/142067-restoration-project/?tab=comments#comment-1523381 I know there are a few 525iX owners and enthusiasts on here so perhaps someone could help him? It seems rhd and lhd cables are different and the rhd is discontinued and not available anywhere at this time. Could a lhd cable be made to fit? There are two new available on ebay.de. Any help greatly appreciated.
  2. Hello all, As I continue my quest to get this 525iX touring completely sorted, I'm currently working on solving a strange noise that I first noticed when I drove the car from the dealer back home. At the time, my priority was solving the no-start condition that the car developed on the trip back across Germany (a dead DME). At Autobahn speed (130+ kph) a very strange almost grinding noise would occur from what seemed like directly behind the instrument cluster. It was so constant and didn't really change in pitch but always started around the same speed and was so loud that it would completely drown out the radio! I've attached a video so you can get a sense. While the car was at BMW initially for the starting problem, I mentioned this and they said it was the noisy water valve. This made no sense and of course wasn't the problem. I removed the instrument cluster assuming it would be some broken clips or wires from the harness rubbing on something but driving the car without the cluster made no difference (at least I took the opportunity to change all 23 bulbs) and the cluster itself was in good shape. BMW then gave a shot at test driving it and decided that it was the cruise control cable in the engine bay whacking up against the strut tower because a cable mount was missing. We installed the missing cable mount (12511268352). This did not fix the problem. I continued to trouble shoot until almost by accident I tapped on the cruise control actuator. It was the exact same sound but much quieter (see video attached). I noticed that the 3 nuts mounting the actuator to the bracket were also loose probably from vibration. I replaced the two rubber grommets (37211119643) that dampen the attachment of the bracket to the SLS reservoir in the hope that new rubber would dampen the vibration and then replaced the 3 nuts that attach the actuator to the bracket studs and added some loctite. After a lot of driving, re-positioning the bracket, and re-tightening, the problem is solved. There is literally one orientation of the bracket that seems to keep the vibration to a minimum. However, I know that anytime I have to remove the actuator for any other repair, it will be a lot of effort to get it back into the one position that doesn't vibrate and cause the horrendous noise. I also opened up the actuator and noticed that indeed the noise is coming from inside the actuator itself. You can hear it by tapping on the case. Has anyone ever had anything like this before? Is there a solution other than buying a new actuator or hoping a used one won't have the issue? Also, I ordered a new mounting bracket but the one that arrived doesn't work for the iX because there's a little fuse box that needs to be attached to the bracket and the BMW part no longer seems to have the shoulder to mount it. Does anyone know what the correct part number is for the iX bracket? The number I used was 65711384767. You can see the iX bracket below with the shoulder for the plastic clip to attach the little fuse box. Thanks for any guidance as always! 525iX_noise_edited.m4v 525iX_noise_cruisecontrol_actuator.mp4
  3. Big Will

    New e34 525iX owner

    Hi there. I've posted a few times already and appreciate what a great resource this forum is. I come from the Volvo enthusiast world (specifically 850/70 series cars) but am excited to learn more about the e34s. I recently found an e34 525iX touring with an 09/94 production date. It has fairly low miles for its age and is in great shape cosmetically. The car was off the road for some years and needed a few items replaced to be in good form but everything is in order now and at a good "stage 0" in terms of maintenance. As it needed new front shocks, I took the opportunity to install the "sport" suspension and corresponding springs. I think the stance is actually well-matched to the normal height iX SLS rear suspension. Unfortunately on my drive home, the car began to have a starting problem as the DME was failing. That was an adventure!
  4. Big Will

    525iX won't start

    So I finally picked up my 1995 525iX touring about 3 weeks ago. The car is cosmetically in absolutely gorgeous shape with only 170K kms but had been off the road for the past 7 years as it was someone's project car in Germany. The dealer that was selling it had done some work (replacing fluids, spark plugs and exterior trim pieces, spraying on rust-proofing oil etc to keep it looking nice underneath). I had it inspected by Dekra in The Netherlands and they spent half a day with the car, driving it etc. and gave me their 9 page report. It needed new fuel lines, new rear brake pads and ideally the front shocks replaced because a little rust had formed on the pistons - from cracks in the strut boots), and a new AC compressor. The dealer and I came to a fair agreement where they did all the labor and I supplied the parts. I took the opportunity to upgrade the front suspension to the "sport" struts and springs and all new hardware. The fuel lines were replaced, new fuel filter and some brackets etc., new rear pads and rotors and parking brake hardware, new AC compressor and drier. After the work was done I went to pick up the car and began driving it back across Germany. What should have been a 5 or 6 hour trip turned into a 14 hour nightmare as the first time I stopped for a coffee the car wouldn't start! It cranked strongly but wouldn't get going. After a couple hours of trying on and off, it did until I had to stop for gas. I could hear the fuel pump priming and the battery seemed strong plus it had just driven over 200 kilometers so should have been charged up. When I finally got to my city, I got a warning message on the dash of a "brake light electric failure - see owner's manual" (in German) and apparently didn't have brake lights anymore. This would come and go over the next two days until I got stuck at a gas station, absolutely couldn't start the car and had to have the car towed to a repair shop. We tried starter fluid before towing it and that did not work. The car spent over 2 weeks at an A.T.U. repair shop. They initially diagnosed it as a fuel pressure regulator noting that they were getting much too high fuel pressure and replaced that with a BMW part. The car still didn't start. I then supplied them with a new BMW fuel pump relay and Motronic relay and a new Hella branded CPS which was what I thought the problem was. No luck. The repair shop said they were finally able to "access the computer" and that the problem is the car's immobilizer and only BMW can fix this. As an additional detail, I noticed that when the car first wouldn't start, when I tried unlocking the car, the alarm would go off. During the couple days I had the car where it would sometimes start, I replaced the batteries in the remotes but was unable to pair them to the car. The procedure did not work. Of course I could still unlock the car manually with the key. On Wednesday I had to have the car towed from this repair shop to the nearest BMW dealer. The dealer was given all the information as to what was done so far and spent yesterday trying to diagnose the problem. They claim to have their most experienced tech working on my car and so far he is stumped! Any ideas for this mystery? Sorry for posting another "e34 no start" thread, but I thought this might be interesting. After 3 weeks I can't even register my car because it can't go through the inspection like this to get normal license plates. UPDATE: BMW claims that the readings from the new Hella CPS are bad. They are going to replace it with a BMW sensor and see if it works. If not, they think it's the main computer...which I imagine is rather expensive. I come from the Volvo enthusiast side and that's really not normally a problem. Is that common with e34s?
  5. Slowly continuing the strip down for the engine rebuild - tacking the removal of the exhaust now and found that the ix has M brakes. Seems like they are the same as M5 calipers as standard. I wonder if the disks also match or if they are any cheaper than the dealer only ix items.
  6. Currently refreshing the rear of the daily 525iX saloon (GD72091) - new wheel bearings, new dust covers, new diff seals, re sealing diff side covers etc On the drivers / off side of the diff there is a screw I used a 13mm socket (iirc) to remove with v little effort. It holds the drive flange in For diffs I believe its good practice to replace the bolts so I have a large screw to go in from the passenger / near side which ties up with bmw fans but i can't seem to find the drivers side smaller one ??? I have the same issue when I went on the BMW Classic parts website Here is a pic from BMW fans ( i have number 6 but I can't find a screw that would go through 3 & 4): IIRC I had the same problem with my 525iX touring and I think I just re used the old screw with threadlock, torqued up to what a similar component was torqued too. I have had a look using a regular e34 525i M50 engine but I see you guys have a nut and bolt arrangement. I have even looked in the 525iX EH tubing section Help... link to bmw fans for my car http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E34-Sedan/Europe/525ix-M50/R-M/may1993/browse/rear_axle Just checked on the repair manual and there is a procedure for replacing the seal involving removing the screw in question: and tighten torque manual says its an M10 that needs 59Nm
  7. Hi All, Whilst I've been toying with whether to scrap or fix up my rusty old iX (see other post) someone was chatting about the possibility of switching the M50 block for the diesel version (M51?). Does anyone know if this has been done before and how effective, is it worth doing (mpg gain mostly)? Regards Will
  8. Hi, I'm putting together a pool of information for the Saloon & Touring e34’s with four wheel drive separated into the sections of the BMW parts system. At the moment I have gone through a 1994 handbook and also added notes from my experiance. I have had input from another member of bimmerforums.co.uk and I would like to open it up to you guys so if people wish to contribute any nuggetts of info please feel free to pm me with details... I'll post it when i'm finished - the idea being that it would take out the mistery, myths and misunderstandings of the 525iX so more people don't just scrap or be put of buying one in the first place! starter for 10 - the radiator fan shroad is unique to the iX see http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/17111728913/ and http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/17111728914/