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Found 10 results

  1. Hello My new e28 525e is starting well but the pump relay is making a permanent noise It looks like something rotating inside thé relay It looks like a failure Have you any idea about it ?
  2. Hi! So... I've an E registration 525e that was built in December 1986. It doesn't always start (for reasons I cannot make sense of – further details below), which I am thinking is to do with the Cold Start Valve. I've found differing reports/diagnoses around the internet (including from realoem.com) about where the CSV is situated. I was wondering if anyone on here can tell me definitively... a. if this car *has* a Cold Start Valve b. if it does, where it is located (I thought it was by the fuel tank – as my Haynes suggests – but my local mechanic says it's on top of the engine block?) c. the right part number and where I can get one (emailed a few places and eBayers, but nobody has one so far) Non-start nonsense – all ideas welcome! There seems to be plenty of power in the battery (which is new) – the engine turns over but doesn't fire. Mechanic says there's spark. Once I jump the car, it starts first time and runs fine. Can't understand how this happens if it's a fuel injection issue, but this is what happens! I tried using a battery charger to boost the battery, but over a six-hour charge the battery level actually fell. Maybe all this sounds more like an electrics issue than a CSV issue – could be there's a power leak? Just keen to know if any of these problems sound familiar and if anyone has any suggestions, really. Thanks JJ
  3. Hey all, So my eta 525e AUTO still refuses to start (from my previous threads). Changed almost all the ignition components, distributor cap, ECU, relays, sensors, etc etc. I still do not have any spark to the plugs hence a healthy turn over but no idle. So, i finally had a look into the bell housing where both the Speed sensor, and the Reference sensor are positioned. Because this was new to me when i first had the problem, i'm going to give as much detail as possible with the hope someone may stumble upon this thread in the future. The Speed and Reference sensors push into the bell housing of the gearbox between the torque converter and the flywheel/ring gear. They are both side by side on the nearside of the car, behind the airbox. They are both connected to the engine harness and these connectors can be accessed by removing the airbox and can be seen attached to the block side by side. Grey connector plugs into the sensor pushed into hole B and the black connector connectors to sensor pushed into hole D. Both sensors are the same part number (12141710668) and are interchangeable but you can not get the connectors confused as they must go to the correct sensor relative to the hole identified by B and D. This is what i can see when i look into the reference sensor hole and a i believe my trigger pin has snapped because everything else has been changed and i get quite funky results when the engine is turned over and a AC Volts are measured across the sensor. See Duncan's amazing guide on how to check this if you do not know already below. MASSIVE thanks to Duncan for this, has helped me and tonnes of other people. So the sensor that i discovered was faulty was the reference sensor, which goes into the hole closest to the road. The lowest hole. This sensor was absolutely shot, it had no resistance so was not detecting anything. I changed it for a working new one which i can confirm works as it was tested in a university lab using an oscilloscope. Correct resistance and AC sine wave replicated by a spinning neodymium magnet. This has not solved my issue so this is what i see when i look into the hole. I need help and peoples experienced opinion on this as its the first time i'm investigating it: Now analysing this photo, reveals to me.... this does not look right. Although it does not look aggressively snapped, it does not look long enough!? The only angle i could take the photo forces it to be taken bias to the front of the engine so you can even see the ring gear. If you look at it from the angle the sensor would read, you can barely see the pin! I've drawn out roughly what you would see if you looked at it head on.. So, does everyone agree that this does not look right? Has my pin snapped or is this normal? As the flywheel rotates, it will not swipe across the sensors face/tip. Also, an interesting observation i made of the old, faulty sensor backs up the theory that the pin has snapped. The old sensor has swollen out creating a dome to its face (interesting?...). There are also scrape marks on its face and a dent to suggest its been grinding against something. Wondering if anyone know about this, if they have changed a flywheel on these cars. As the engine rotates and you pass the trigger pin on the flywheel, you periodically come across large tabs of the flywheel that pass by the sensor which are NOT trigger pins. They are just large areas of the flywheel that match the length of the trigger pin. These have long scratches on them like the rust of the wheel has been removed. Long lines of exposed fresh metal as if the sensors swollen tip has made them. So, that is where i am at currently. What do people think? Is this enough to pull the transmission out and replace the flywheel? Has the trigger pin snapped off? Is this normal what i am showing and if so, where would my next area of investigation be? Is changing both sensors enough to move on and look elsewhere? ALL help and opinions are immensely appreciated, i really am stuck. I also hope some of this information will inspire someone else with the same problem and help them repair their own fault!! Kindest regards, Darren - From Brighton, UK
  4. dazh90

    525e No Starter. No spark

    Hi all, I have a 1987 525e (Motronic) which after spending two weeks in America, i come back to my car and she refuse to fire. I've done what i can and im out of ideas so really hoping someone can help! Also, worth mentioning that on the day that i got back and i realised the car refused to fire up i went to the petrol station and got £12 worth of fuel and some carb cleaner to assist a start. SHE STARTED UP! left running fine for 10 minutes but when ignition was switched off she refused to start immediately after (STRANGE, what is going on!?) . Problem/Symptoms; - No spark to any of the plugs apart from a single spark when coil is engaged at Pos3 - I believe im getting fuel as plugs are wet The facts; (strange results shown in RED) - Engine turns over by the key, top of engine moves (in time) with bottom - Brand new distributor cap and rotor arm - Brand new ignition coil - Swapped out CPS with one i had from 520i e28 (same hardwired one facing front harmonic balancer) - Swapped out main fuel relay with one from 520i - Swapped out MAF from 520i (i know it's trivial but, meh) - Checked for 12v heading towards the coil between 15+ and 0. (12v upon pos3, 10v when cranking) - Although coil is new, Resistance across posts all check out fine - Spark plugs are 2 months old - Continuity between both ends of main HT lead (coil tower to distributor) - Battery charged fully externally inside the house - DME socket where relay fits; - Tab30 suppose to have 12v, shows 0v - Tab85 suppose to have 0v, shows 0v - Tab 86 suppose to have 12v, shows 0v - Tab 87 and 87 suppose to both show 12v, shows 12v - Tab 87 and 87 suppose to both show 0v, shows 12v with ignition off - Checked for click from DME relay, it clicks just fine and i get the engine hum Questions that i am asking myself; - If my 520i M20 uses Jetronic fuel injection, and my 525e M20 uses motronic, why do they both have the same hard wired (no clip, needed cutting and soldering) crankshaft position sensors? - Why do i only get one spark when ignition is turned on, but none whilst cranking? - Does p.d towards the coil normalling drop from 12v to 10v when cranking? - Why did she start ONCE but refused to start immediately after? - Is my ECU fried? and if so.... why? only sat for 2 weeks... Any help is very much appreciated!! Regards, Darren (From Brighton)
  5. jstone

    525e rear shocks

    I'm having a bit of a nightmare trying to source the correct rear shocks for my 525e. According to RealOEM and the BMW classic parts shop the correct part number is 33521125770 and fits models up to 04/86 - my car was manufactured 12/85. The part number for models from 04/86 onwards is different and I think there might have been a change to the rear semi-trailing arm, so the design of the bottom eye may be different. I'm on a budget as I'm restoring an E30 at the moment (I know, I know, I hang my head in shame...) so I opted for a set of KYB shocks (part no. 441089 for models up to 04/86) but they've turned up and the bottom eye looks wrong. Compare the above with a generic 33521125770 shock. Ideally I'd like to fit a Sachs shock but I'm consistently told that the only available Sachs part (105732) doesn't fit my car! Any idea what's going on here? At the moment I seem to have only two choices: buy from a main dealer or the classic parts store (I'd need to sell a kidney) or try a Monroe shock (part no. 26624) instead and hope for the best. Neither option is particularly appealing. I rang my local main dealer on the off chance they could confirm the correct part number for my car but they refused to help! Jim
  6. jstone

    Chrome door trim removal

    Silly one this. I'm looking to swap the n/s rear door on my 525e. Got a totally rust-free one from my old 520i which I need to sand down and respray. I've removed the door card, door handle and the black plastic moulding strip on the exterior without any problems. I'm a bit wary about the chome trim underneath the window seal (both inside and out) though, because I've got a horrible track record for breaking trim and fastenings. It's not obvious how this is fastened on - does it pull off or slide off or a bit of both? I've done just about all the exploratory probing I'm comfortable with and I'm not confident I can get if off without damaging it. Can anyone give me a few pointers before I make a complete hash of it? Cheers, Jim
  7. badgerous

    Noob with e28 525e

    Hi I've been lurking for a while and looking for an e28. Nearly bought this lovely old barge from Bavarian Retro six months ago but missed it - luckily it came up for sale again just before Christmas! Drove it back from Newcastle to Lincoln with minimal drama after inadvertently steam cleaning the engine bay and then tightening the top radiator hose up. It's a 1988 e28 525e LUX in silver with shadowline trim. Showing around 130k on the clock and it has been welded and sprayed over the last few years. Restoration thread at: http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/97035 I'll be selling my e46 coupe and using this as my daily - it's all ready to go apart from an electrical gremlin that keeps popping the interior light fuse and a rear light seal leaking water into the boot. Would like some polished BBS and a moderate drop at some point. Better pics to follow when it's not freezing cold! I'm sure I'll have questions and need spare parts at some point Cheers, Nick
  8. Mapson86

    e28 525e pics

    Just thought I'd share a few of my pics of the 525e
  9. Mapson86

    SI board problem?

    Good morning After searching through the forum and doing a bit of google-ing, I've probably confused myself a bit more than I was hoping! I have a 1984 525e, cracking motor, using it over 60 miles per day up and down the m62, 6 days a week without fail so far (touch wood). But since I bought the car the speedo hasn't been working and i've been relying on the sat nav to gauge my speed which I don't think is ideal. After searching and a few bits of info when I bought the car I was told it could be the SI batteries that have failed, but after some searching I am led to believe it might be a sensor on the diff to blame? All the other gauges such as temp, rev counter, fuel gauge are working perfectly fine, just the speedo / mpg gauge, and mileage/trip aren't working. Also the inspection light is always on when the ignition is turned on. I've had the cluster out and checked for loose connections (just with the naked eye though not under a magnifier or anything). Would it be best just to change the si board/cluster? or would it be more likely to be a speed sensor? I'm not a mechanic or have in depth knowledge or vehicle mechanics but I'm alright at following instructions etc and have people who can help me with a bit of DIY too, I just want to be sort of heading in the right direction before I start spending money as it's a bit tight at the moment... Thanks greatly for any help, sorry to be asking a question that has already been asked previously on numerous forums but I was just hoping for a bit of extra clarification. Cheers, Tom.
  10. I have recently purchased a 525e. There is a loud tapping coming from 2 of the rockers no matter where I set them. one is on the inlet and one the exhaust side and I have gone as far as swapping the 2 adjusters over so the valve sits on a different part of the adjuster, (with the hole to the underside of the adjuster) to eliminate it being a flat spot on the excentric rotor adjuster. I can tell the 2 that it is coming from by blocking the breather off and putting a screw driver on the rocker shaft and listening while running the engine (with no rocker cover on obviously). I have removed the clips and slid the rockers up and down the shaft to check for any play in the rocker bearings which feel fine. The top of the valve is not worn at all and unless it is coming from the valve seats I can't understand what is causing it, however I'm sure that if it was the valve seats tapping on return it wouldn't be coming through the rocker shaft as it wouldn't be knocking against the rocker arm but the inside of the valve seat. Has anyone had any similar kind of problems in the past, and if so does anyone know a cure? Would be greatly appreciated. Tim
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