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Found 57 results

  1. Hi, can I tune my bmw f10 twin power turbo with stage 1 tune? 520d non M-sport. is there any additional parts I have to change like air filter or is standard fine. Also, can this increase sound within the exhaust or car as I prefer a louder sound but not too much. Like burbles in rem would be fine?
  2. £6750 ono This is not your usual poverty spec BMW 520d Touring (F11), this car comes with some pretty rare and very useful options. I looked around for ages before buying this car a year ago for a new job (that was going to involve a lot of miles on the road). I am only selling this now as I am changing jobs and my commute has reduced massively. The car has only covered about 6000 miles since it was last serviced a year ago thanks to the lockdowns, and it comes with a fresh 12-month MOT with no advisories. The car can be viewed in North Devon, but I would be more than happy to meet somewhere reasonable for my travel costs to deliver. I could meet to view in the West London area over the next few days. There have only been two previous owners, and up until the last service (which was carried out by the garage I bought it off) the car has a full BMW service history with some big jobs carried out in the recent past. The most important one for the N47 engine is that the timing chain was replaced by BMW in January 2020. It would have (obviously) had an oil change at that point, then again in July 2020, and I have only done 6000 miles since. The new owner can keep up more frequent oil changes to stave off any future issues with the new timing chain. A lot of other BMW invoices come with the car for various jobs (as you can see in the photos). The original owners pack, and the approved used owners pack come with the car. It has a complete history with it. The car has a few small stone chips on the front, and there is a small amount of corrosion on the alloys, but overall, the paintwork is in really good condition. The paint has clearly been well looked after (no swirl marks or major blemishes), and the alloys have no heavy curbing. Given the mileage it is in great condition. Inside it is very good too, with minimal wear throughout. The tyres all have at least 4mm tread, the fronts are Goodyears, the rears Pirelli. It is in mechanically excellent condition. I fitted and coded a new rear shock (the shocks on this car have Electronically Controlled Dampers – EDC fitted) to replace one that was leaking badly, plus two new lower wishbone arms as the ball joints had gone. These were the only issues on the latest MOT. The Dynamic Damper Control (or EDC) system is amazing, you get the best of all worlds, the comfort and ride of an SE, plus when you want to far firmer suspension put it in Sport and off you go (body control in all modes is exceptional). It is amazing how capable the car can be given it is a big 5 series. It is a great option to have on the car, and really a very rare option on a 520d. The 8-speed auto gearbox has had a recent oil change and shifting is smooth. A genuine ZF sump pan was fitted with genuine ZF Lifeline 8 oil. So you have peace of mind knowing this has been carried out. It has the optional paddle shifters fitted, so when the mood takes you, you can have full manual control over the gearbox from the paddles. The car ride is tight and no knocks or creaks, mechanically it is spot on and drives like new. The car is fitted with the surround view camera system (another pretty rare option on a 520d), with reversing camera, park assist (using the Top View cameras) and front corner mounted Side View cameras (ideal for pulling out of tight junctions as the nose is pretty long on this car). There is a common failure of the nearside front Side View camera cable which gets water ingress, and the camera fails. My car had this fault when I bought it, but I got a new genuine replacement cable from BMW and repaired this (which was a pain of a job) but the system now fully works (see photos). Another excellent and really rare option on the car is the Active Cruise Control with Stop & Go. This is a radar cruise system which will brake the car to a standstill (great for slow moving traffic) and maintain a distance to the car in front. If you plan to commute any distance this makes driving effortless. Finally, there is the visibility pack, with adaptive xenon headlights (that “steer” round corners) and main beam assist (which is awesome). I will miss the headlights on this car, they are really very good. Other than these the car comes with some other options and all the usual refinements: powered tailgate, ambient interior lighting, auto wipers, front heated seats (black leather seats), dipping nearside wing mirror to help reversing (not that you need it with all the cameras!), auto dimming rear view mirror and wing mirrors, auto wipers, electric adjustable seats with memory function, power folding wing mirrors (will fold in with a long press of the lock button), climate control (blows nice and cold). The car is not fitted with the professional navigation system (in fact it does not have navigation at all), but it does have Bluetooth enabled and USB/line in connection. I fitted a Brodit mount for my phone to the dashboard (which I will leave attached to the car – you just need to buy the cradle specific to your phone). Fitting the cradle did not require any drilling/cutting to fit so it can be removed without leaving a mark. I then retrofitted the OEM 12V socket hidden under the glovebox which made it a pretty neat install (see photos). I then just used my mobile for navigation and for streaming music over Bluetooth (a phone is way better than the pretty rubbish pro nav system). The car can be paired to two mobile phones. I’m sure I have missed some stuff, but as I mentioned this is not your usual run-of-the-mill 520d, and I hope it goes to a good home! Any questions get in touch.
  3. afo99

    Diesel Additives

    Hi all, I know this was asked a lot of times, but just wondering if the principle applies to the newer engines on the 2.0l B47 or 3.0l B57. I used to add Redex Professional Diesel Fuel System Cleaner to my older cars like the Vauxhall astra 1.6 Diesel, Ford focus, etc. And I do see a difference in mpg slightly and it starts up better. But wondering if anyone has being doing so on the new G30/G31's since they put a label to not add any additives? I have been using shell v power diesel, as I know it has some additives, but I can't be using that all the time as it eventually adds up. So I was speculating to put in normal shell diesel and fuel additives once every couple of months. Let me know what you guys think?
  4. H i Everyone, I am hoping some one can help with a problem on my 2014 520D F11. My display cluster is a 6WA 'instrument panel with extended scope'. According to the owners handbook, on page 90, when i put the transmission into Sport or Sport+ mode, 'the display on the instrument cluster switches to the Sport Displays', where the speedo changes from an analogue dial to a digital display on the left and the rev counter with the gearbox in the centre on the right . Well my display does not change at all. It is the same as for when i am in Comfort or eco pro. I have gone into the idrive and, settings menu but no matter what i try the cluster display stays the same. There are no warnings or fault codes or anything to indicate there is a problem with the car or the display cluster. What am i doing wrong? Thanks, Nat
  5. Hi guys,I am very new to BMW, never owned one but I have been researching for a long time and I think I have found the one for me.It is a beautiful Mediterranean blue 520d M sport package. However I have not purchased it just yet.As one thing that really annoys me is the rims, I just don't like the 18 inch it has at the moment, please see the picture I attached.However I am looking to upgrade them all to the 19 inch alloys - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-5-SERIES-G30-G31-M-SPORT-19-INCH-ALLOY-664M-STYLE-GENUINE-7855083-84/265069412800?hash=item3db75e41c0:g:9gEAAOSwXh5gOhs9But I have heard that if you get a bigger alloy of 20 inch when the car is first manufactured then you can't downgrade due to the brake discs etc.However I can go upgrade from a smaller wheel to those 19 inches right?
  6. Car: Bmw 520d 2008 lci N47 223 000 kilomiters. Hello. It's my second time on this forum. I have search all over the internet trying to find anyone with similar problem as me, but im unsuccesful. I have a problem with having to replacing starter way to often. Changed 4 starter within my 2 month of owner ship. With about 1000km. The first starter quit quickly. It first made the sound that the solenoid was sticking and it was schreetcing at the flywheel. Shut the ignition off and i noticed the starter kept turning. Turned ignition on and sound went away and starter was disconnected. I shut the car of and the starter didnt function. On this the solenoid got broken and noticed severe oil leak on the starter and around nothing from rear main seal. Fixed oil leak and replaced starter. This time the starter function perfectly for the longest time of 3/4 weeks. But in thoose weeks the starter had a really hard life. I had defect coolant temp sens so no glow plugs and with below 0 tempreatures had to hard hard start the car multiple times. 10-15 second turning 3-4 times. While forcefully glowing engine with ista+. Then i fixed the sensor car start up perfectly like a new 2020 bmw. No problems. Suddenly one day the starter turned the engine around 1 time and i heard the solenoid quit and the starter didnt work. Just turning starter motor not putting the gear to flywheel. Then i let the car sit for 3 days. Went to get it in the garage and fix it. tried to start for fun and the car starter up with the classic Schreeech from starter hitting flywheel the first 5/10 second after the engine started. I ignored it because i just wanted to get the car in the garage and driving it in was much better then pushing. Turned the car off in the garage and tried to start. The sound came again, but noticed not as long. Turned igniton off notice starter keeps turning. This happends a couple of time. Geting the starter to stop turning was eather raise the Rpm of engine or once i had to put one of the battery terminals off the battery. Then i changed starter. I checked the visible part of the flywheel, and looked fine by my knowledge. Was some weak damage on the flywheel ring gear, but no theets missing. The new starter as normal worked perfect for the first 3 days. Yesterday it came again quick schreech the first 2/3 second the engine had fired up. Ignored it but got a bitt worried. Then It was not there the second time, Third time it came again. Then when in the store and when i was leaving the sound came again, but this time it continued. I live 30 seconds away from the store so i desided to just drive home because i didnt want to park the car at the store. This time the sound continued for atleast 10-15 second maybe longer. When i drove to my house the sound was gone happily. I haven't tried to start the car after, because im afraid the starter will stick and i have to take the battery pole off again. For instanse i have replaced with Rotorvis refurbished bosch starters the last 2 times. Im thinking maybe the last starter runied my flywheel and now the new starter keeps sticking on the flywheel and burning it out from that. Does anyone else know something that can help me or any tips about things to check. Thanks if u have read it all. Hopefully someone here has some tips.
  7. Hi all First post here and seeking some help! Discovered a drivers side rear broken spring on my 2012 f10 520d M Sport. (Broken in two places!) I managed to get the strut assembly out and change the spring making sure everything was aligned correctly. I did not have to disconnect the anti-roll bar in order to gain extra space to remove. I used a pry bar to lower the hub enough to get the strut assembly out and then back in. I've tightened up the three bolts under the rear parcel shelf speaker cover to hold the strut in place etc. However, I'm having a problem trying to pry the hub assembly low enough in order to fit the lower mounting bolt back in. Seems like enormous leverage is required in order to achieve this but try as we might, (stood on it, and pry bar) cannot get the hub low enough! My question is, will disconnecting the anti-roll bar link allow the hub to lower more? Or, what else could I disconnect to allow more downwards movement in the hub in order to align the lower bolt? Any advice would be greatly appreciated ta! Patrick
  8. Hi Guys! I just need a bit of advice. This is probably a really stupidly straightforward one, but here goes .... Got into my car last week and it duly informed me that my Front Brakes needed changing pronto. The flashing message said that there was like 200 miles left. Yikes! The car is braking fine. No noise. No shuddering. Pedal is not spongy. Naturally I wasn't overly delighted but so be it I thought. I jacked her up on Sat and removed the driver-side wheel to have a good look. I was pleasantly surprised (and a tad confused) to see they seemed in pretty good nick. Being a total DIYer and not having any real mechanical experience I got my calipers and measured up. The Disc read 23.7 mm and the Pad read 12 mm! Now I am really confused. Why is the car telling me I need new brakes? Could it be that the passenger side is worn and the driver side is not? Is it simply the iDrive deciding that after X number of miles the brakes need changing regardless of condition?
  9. The car seems to have developed a strange whirring sound this weekend when I park it and switch off. I have checked the engine bay and everything looks normal. I have recorded the sound and uploaded it to youtube. Any of you guys heard this before?
  10. 2008 BMW 520d n47 157,000 miles This is a reoccurring issue I've been having for a couple of months. It's important to note that the car doesn't suddenly lose power whilst driving, the engine will either start and the power will be there from start to finish, or it'll start and be sluggish the whole way. When it's sluggish, it feels like it's got a big amount of turbo lag and it doesn't start pulling properly until around 2750rpm, not like it does normally. Any advice on this issue would be appreciated
  11. I have a BMW e60 520D M47 that suddenly lost power when driving and start aggressively shaking, suddenly then power would come back and did this a few times. By the time i got home the car was stalling trying to pull away and was idling really badly and eventually it would stop starting all together, it tries to start bud shakes the whole car aggressively and puts out a lot of black smoke out of the exhaust. I have scanned the car with Inpa and dis and no codes are being stored apart from glow plug errors. I have changed injectors to a known good set and checked fuel pressure while starting and this seems fine. I have moved the turbo actuator by hand to make sure this was not seized. I have been told it could be a timing chain issue but i didn't know what to think as apparently these engine are not prone to the same issues as the newer N47 I am now stuck and would really appreciate your guys advice before i decide to strip the car or get the engine replaced. I have attached a youtube video of the car trying to start. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hqw6mzgp848
  12. Hi Guys, I am looking at buying a 520D M Sport 2011 - 2015 age range with less than 70k on the clock. I do about 20k per year and plan to replace every two years. Anything particular I should look out for? Any big service costs like cam chain/belt I should expect?
  13. GroveMan

    M5 brake conversion!

    Hi, I'm new to this site and although I know alot about cars I'm no expert or mechanic, so hence why I'm on here and hoping you guys can help me with my query. I've got a 2008 520d Msport, running the best part of 300bhp, stage 2 map, with bigger turbo, bigger injectors, upgraded intercooler, full s/s system, air filter etc, my the brakes let it all down as they weren't the best to start with before I modified it. Now I've got a chance of buying a set of e60 M5 brakes (calibers, discs, pads) and wondering if they would or could be fitted to my car without too much modification and hassle?? Not sure if this has been asked before or if I'm going over old ground but I've looked online and can't find much on this, as I know I'll get ribbed for doing his and the above work to a dirty diesel, but I like it and it doesn't half shift and still great mpg. Thanks.
  14. GroveMan

    M5 brake conversion!

    Hi, I'm new to this site and although I know alot about cars I'm no expert or mechanic, so hence why I'm on here and hoping you guys can help me with my query. I've got a 2008 520d Msport, running the best part of 300bhp, stage 2 map, with bigger turbo, bigger injectors, upgraded intercooler, full s/s system, air filter etc, my the brakes let it all down as they weren't the best to start with before I modified it. Now I've got a chance of buying a set of e60 M5 brakes (calibers, discs, pads) and wondering if they would or could be fitted to my car without too much modification and hassle?? Not sure if this has been asked before or if I'm going over old ground but I've looked online and can't find much on this, as I know I'll get ribbed for doing his and the above work to a dirty diesel, but I like it and it doesn't half shift and still great mpg. Thanks.
  15. Hi guys, Haven’t seen many many of these kicking around so let me know what you guys think! Ill be uploading all my to-do list and updates on ramp time so far but I don’t do things by the book, as such. First BMW after moving from TypeR’s, just wanted a cruiser that makes me look like a drug dealer really
  16. Themadwelshman

    4687 and 3F57 error code

    Good afternoon everyone. I'm new here so please be gentle with me.HAHAHAHA I've just purchased a 520d on a 55 Plate. Absolutely lovely car to drive and immaculate to go with it. Definitely been looked after with the amount of paperwork that I got. But I have a problem. I took it for a test drive when I went to see it and everything seemed ok. Didn't really get up to any speeds or get to 6th gear. So didn't notice anything wrong. But on the way home I felt like the car had no power so at first I just thought 2.0d engine bloody heavy car. No worries. Its smooth no revving issues there constant does everything it should just ne oooomph in it. So this morning went to a mate of mine who owns a garage and got him to check for codes for me as there was no EML light on. Only warning I get is PDC fault but I'll sort that again hopefully. Well it brought up a couple of codes that he cleared and then started car etc and checked again and they both came back. The first one says 4687. Throttle valve actuator - incorrect function And second one says 3F57 Boost Pressure Control - incorrect function Now I have been through a few posts etc on here and of course Google to try find info but a lot of conflicting stuff and nothing actually about both of these errors together. Am I right in thinking that the Throttle valve being blocked , damaged etc would then also throw up the boost error? There's no roughness in driving or idling and mpg is pretty good to . Getting around 46mpg urban at the moment. Any advice on where I can start stripping and cleaning etc or checking would be much appreciated. Even a picture or two would be brilliant. I'm quite handy with a spanner as long as I know where I'm going. LOL. Many thanks and eagerly await your reply.
  17. Price drop and new tyres. Here we have my F11 2011 BMW 520D M Sport £8200 ono. I have a mini blog going (via my username, what have you done today etc) But I need a smaller car and want a 3.0 6 pot. It is advertised on Ebay (full of choppers) and Autotrader. It has the usual equipment but with added shadow line trim, black head lining and sports gear box with flappy paddles. It has business Nav with DVD playing enabled. It has extras and all gadgets work from heated seats, auto lights, auto wipers, high beam assist, voice activation, remote folding rear seats, auto boot load cover, front & rear sensors to name a few. This August (at 122k) the chain snapped and BMW repaired and rebuilt the engine. This has a 2 year warranty from BMW. I have a print out from BMW Plymouth detailing the repair work. BMW Snows carried out the work. Since I have owned the car I have: Added black front grills to match the shadow line trim. Upgraded the screen to a full size Android unit. It runs the BMW system and the Android system side by side with all wheel and centre controls active. Updated the BMW Maps to 2018. Replaced the interior lamps and rear plate lamps to LEDs. Had a full service carried out (Oil, Oil Filter, Fuel Filter, Coolant and brake fluid check) 4 wheel alignment New wiper blades The original front chrome grills can also be fitted. Service History 123399 14/10/18 Full service 122223 29/08/18 BMW engine re build (2 year warranty) 119900 11/05/18 Rear brake pads & sensor 110352 18/01/18 off side air suspension unit (£310) 106523 15/11/17 Service 78090 08/11/16 Service 74800 14/03/17 Tyre service 73726 03/02/17 Brake fluid service 67659 16/06/16 near side air suspension unit (£310) 62054 15/03/16 Service 47824 26/01/15 BMW Service 30480 30/01/14 BMW Service 15229 26/03/13 BMW Service 30560 01/02/14 BMW Warranty check The car drives really well, pulls well for its size (especially in sport mode), no noises or clunks, the Nav system also indicates on to the dash, the android unit has DAB it also has a rear parking camera but I have not gotten round to fitting that yet. The interior is immaculate, the drivers seat has the expected wear nothing to mention. All controls work as they should heat/AC, seats etc. There are a few scratches on the body work in line with the mileage. The car is regularly waxed and washed and has a deep shine. The alloys have minor scuffing and are fitted with Rim Blades, the rear bumper has a small crack in it and a boot lip protector fitted. Proof of driving licence and insurance will be required for a test drive. I live in Plymouth, I will be in Portsmouth from the 19th till the 21st when I return to Devon, I will be in the US from the 22nd till the 28th. Please feel free to ask any questions, and feed back is welcome.
  18. Hi guys, looking for for some info or a good thread on small things with big return to look at an a 520d e60. Not huge like turbo or timing but things that make up a cars life if addressed, like ; thermostats, coolant pipes, seals, bushes, belts and pulleys. Really just a to do list that combined can help big time with the cars longevity. For instance regular oil change and back pressure can increase the life of a turbo....so change the oils and keep your DPF healthy and your turbo will more likely be sweeter for longer. My e60 seems like some random unicorn car that’s engine isn’t on any threads, or at least common ones. Haven’t checked the engine number but it’s a late 58 plate 520d facelift e60. so far it’s had; remap new dpf fill service tranny fluid disk and pads air intake all new lights on anything that lights up still to fit; glow plugs clutch and flywheel so any help would be great. I genuinely couldn’t be happier with the car at 100k. Sounds like a modern petrol, no smoke, no gear change issues and never lets me down. Thanks guys
  19. Gus Alpine e60

    E60 520d Remap Results

    Hi guys, This was back when I first got the e60, just fancied a remap to see how the car felt afterwards. Im pretty sad so my joy in life is MPG over BHP but I gave the remap a bash. Ended up around 400 torque and 200HP, totally standard and still with the cars original DPF sitting at 100k. Only upset is now my MPG has went from 64 (yup, that's right) down to 52 and it will not f*cking budge an inch. Even on my 3/4 hour cruise control drives it just its at 52 forever now. I know what you're thinking and no...I dont no drive harder now that its remapped. My game is smooth and slow, dont have road rage or anywhere to be on time as I work for myself, loving life basically. Taking the car back soon for a carbon clean. Since the remap its had a new DPF, K&N intake and new glow plugs so maybe see what the scrip with its numbers now! Carlton Tuning in Yorkshire are the guys I used. Not expensive and a quick and easy service. ALSO, how the F do you add a video to this site?!?!?
  20. Gus Alpine e60

    Spider Wheel f*ck up actual WORKS!

    Hi guys, this is May come in handy for someone or may not but still an interesting one. back when I got my e60 the first thing (obviously) was hunting down a set of spiders. When the rims arrived I realised the guy had sent me 4 front alloys, so 8.5 all round, instead of 2 front and 2 back 8.5/9.5. I kind of cared and kind of didnt so I though f*ck it. Got some rubber and slapped them on. They fit pretty perfect all round. No speed issues, no breaking or cornering issues and after 3/4 months the are still wearing evenly all round. Looking at camber and any offset issues will be in the future when I fit the new springs but for now (3/4months down the line) it’s been perfect. I’ve never been a fan of trying to space them out to achieve a ‘wider more aggressive stance’ as I feel like that’s an obvious crap give away of trying to look more like a beast and just makes the car look like it’s a tractor. Low and sleek is the name of my game with this one, not pretending to be and RS4. Yes the offset will be a ballhair out but really not worth losing sleep over as I’ve tried it, I’m currently running it and it works. Also chose 35 profile for the back instead of the ‘reccommended’ 30 as I reckon it just looks better and may help in keeping those rears from cracking up easily. So maybe this will help someone out if they struggling to find the perfect set (I searched for a looooooong time) and need to mix and match. Just DONT buy odd ones, I refused to settle for all the sales of 3 replicas and 1 original etc. set up is 4x8.5j all round 245/35/19
  21. Evening, Got my 520d at last, came with FSH, an engine rebuild this June by Snows BMW after a chain snap. I was after a car to commute weekly from Plymouth to Portsmouth in comfort (and step down from the A4 3.0tdi, as it was eating fuel and giving me points!) Its got the flappy paddles (are they needed in a 520d) small nav (will change), no DAB, bluetooth phone and streaming and some other bits. To be done Service booked in (it was on long life, I prefer 12m service and will probably DIY the oil every 6) Re-Map sometime next week change lamps to LED for the interior refurb all 4 alloys swap to non run flats add a full size Android head unit with DAB (has anyone installed the DAB antenna?) Done Go faster rear plate LED lights BMW Logo door lights (will post a photo when its dark) Questions: When my S9 is connected via bluetooth, the car beeps and cuts it off? Can I connect my phone by USB to make calls etc? (I'd rather not as I have a 64gb USB with all my music on it) My car is a 2011 is it worth registering for BMW connected drive? I assume it piggy backs data from my phone? Dan
  22. Driving to work this morning as usual in my 2009 E60 520d auto, cruising along the dual carriageway around 70mph and got the dreaded 'bong' and 'transmission failure' displayed on the idrive. Car felt no different at speed but when I had stopped in the que for the work car park when pulling away it was very sluggish and reluctant to move, but once it got going it was ok. Reverse parked into my usual space, reverse worked fine, stopped the car killed the engine, waited a couple of minutes and started it again, no errors. Took it for a run around the car park and no issues. The car is still under warranty for the next week and a bit so im going to give the garage a call today and get it in but just wondering if anyone has had similar issues and what the diagnosis was?
  23. Sarjoo

    Behind the kidneys

    Dear all Something I have often noticed but thought nothing of, as the car was always off when observing this....but the view behind the twin kidneys on my 520D ED always seems to present a closed-vent, you know those black horizontally arranged blind-style slats? So last night when the car had been a lengthy enough run, when I parked up I left her running and popped out front to check, peered in through the kidney grills and was fully expecting them to be open as it was a hot engine, and was still running as stated, and the internal air conditioning was not set to the recycle mode (the one that prevents air from outside entering). The slat were still closed? Surely that's not right, or good? Can anyone confirm their observations on their own cars? Edit: An interesting nugget found on other site...and not at all in an annoying monotone voice ... And from another forum someone posted an extract from a BMW blog as follows: "The air vent control reduces aerodynamic drag. An Efficient Dynamics stratagem deployed at an early stage in a number of different models is air vent control. Air intakes to feed cool air into the vehicle always degrade the aerodynamics of that vehicle. The air vent control system compensates for this disadvantage by the use of movable slats, located between the air intake and the radiator. When the engine and its ancillary systems require a low level of cooling, the air vents close. Thanks to the improved vehicle aerodynamics resulting from this action, fuel consumption is reduced and unwanted external noise is minimised. The new, second-generation air vent control system is variable. Back in 2003, air vents were already being used behind the kidney-shaped grille on BMW 5 Series vehicles. Ever since 2007, the first generation air vent control system has been fitted to a number of different BMW models. Three different vent positions can be set using the three upper and two lower slats which are connected together, depending on the engine fitted to the vehicle. With the second-generation air vent control system, a much greater number of positions can be set in order to better control the flow of cooling air in an even more flexible, demand-led manner. Now, both the upper and lower slats are opened or closed to precisely-defined positions by an electric motor. The second-generation air vent control system also incorporates more perceptive sensing technology, which captures and evaluates more parameters than ever before. In this way, the temperature of the refrigerant, the air conditioning condenser, the transmission oil, the catalytic converter and the charge air feeding the turbocharger all benefit. Another important control variable is the speed at which the vehicle is driven. Clearly linked to driving situation. After pulling away at the start of a journey while in town, all of the slats remain closed to allow the engine and its ancillary systems to reach optimal operating temperature as quickly as possible. Once a greater degree of cooling is required, the lower slats open first, moving by an angle of 30 degrees. On the open road, the aerodynamics of the vehicle already play a major role. At low load, the air vents are gradually closed in a number of intermediate steps; during this process, the lower slats can also be opened, by 15 degrees only. On the motorway under full load and at high temperatures, a situation that demands maximum cooling performance, the lower slats can be opened completely, as can the upper slats to supplement them. The positioning of the slats in a number of discrete steps, in which the upper slats always open last and are always the first to close, is particularly important. Because when closed, the upper slats make the greatest contribution to reducing aerodynamic drag. Overall, the second-generation air vent control system reduces the drag coefficient cW by 0.015."
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