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About q96169we

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    G31 520d, G29 Z4 M40i

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  1. q96169we


    This is what I use for my 520d (both F10 and G31, B47 and B47TU1 engine respectively). Also, plan to use this for my z4 with B58TU1 engine which can also take LL-04 oil (if after latest standard and fuel economy, LL-17 FE+ is recommanded but not many option so far). Basically, LL-04 can be used for all B-series engine (based on the information I found). https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-92110-shell-helix-ultra-ect-c3-5w-30-pure-plus-fully-synthetic-car-engine-oil.aspx It's LL-04 approved. Also, BMW's original oil is supplied by Shell instead of Castrol nowadays.
  2. q96169we

    Energy Recovery Vs Harsh Braking

    If I understand correctly, what you said here is to select sport individual mode then configure the sport individual mode to be comfort for engine, steering, and transmission. Basically, what this does is to make the car still run in comfort mode but disable the 48v auto star/stop function (with MHT, no button to switch it off). In other word, the car will not coast when you are not press accelerator and will always recover the energy until the battery is full. This is how I always use my car and it sort of makes the car behaviour a little more predictable as I rule out the coasting function, and all brake servo boost is from mechanical vacuum pump (as the engine never switch off when the car is running). However, the overall scenario of how the 48v MHT system varies the torque output so that the total stop force is varied even brake padel input is constant (as my long post described) is still correct. If you want further explanation about the scenarios I mentioned in the long post, feel free to discuss further.
  3. q96169we

    Energy Recovery Vs Harsh Braking

    That is totally true. However, there is a pre-assumption that all components are working as within the designed tolerence. You mentioned that you had your master cylinder and brake servo changed eventually with some sw update. Then, the brake system back to normal. My thought here is that some components in your car were already faulty and were working outside the tolerence. Thus, regardless of which version of sw is programmed, the brake system was still working abnormally. On the other hand, I totally agree with you on how the SW may change how the car feels nowadays (I did my PhD in real time system area and worked with many people from automotive industry. I even had a chance to have a seminar with Simon Furst, BMW's lead on FuSa and autonomous driving). In those scenarios described in my previous long post, if the MHT SW (part of engine ECU SW) can fine tune the torque output from the BSG (motor/generator of the 48v system) so that when you decelerate, the total stop force can maintain a constant as long as your brake padel input is constant, then the stop will become very smooth without my right foot compensating the torque variation from the BSG. In other word, your brake padel will now request the amount of overall stop force from all sub-systems instead of just requesting certain amount of stop force from the mechanical brake system. However, this is obviously not achieved yet. Thus, all MHT, full hybrid, or EV I've driven so far have some strange brake feeling that I don't like. Difference is just some car's brake is very strange and somes are less strange (due to sw calibration). This is also why I got my z4 this year instead of waiting for LCI next year (toy car so not hurry and can wait) as I know the LCI will have 48v MHT and I will likely to dislike the brake feel.
  4. q96169we

    Energy Recovery Vs Harsh Braking

    First of all, I think Stressed's car is kind of an exception as it is some component fault. Below is my explanation to majority of pre-LCI 520d MHT car. Let's start with how the system works. Basically, the 48v system is connnected to the engine crankshaft via belt (same as air-con). The 48v motor/generator can, based on plotted data via BimmerLink, generate maximum of about +/- 35 Nm of torque depending on whether it's acting as a motor or a generator. Then, the torque varies depending on the engine speed (rpm) as well as the battery charge state. When in generator mode, lower engine speed *and* lower battery charge level will give more negative torque. On the other hand, the higher engine speed *or* higher battery charge level will give less negative torque. In motor mode, above are still correct but the torque is now positive instead of negative. Now, let's just look at the scenario when you decelerate and the 48v system is doing energy recovery. To make everything simpler, let's assume the generator always generate -35 Nm of torque at the moment. When you lift off the acelerator, the generator generates -35 Nm of torque. You can consider this torque as, as what you've described, engine brake but the amount is much larger than engine brake. This torque is then enlarged by the gearbox further. The lower gear you are in, the more the gearbox enlarge this negative torque. Now, let's image you drive a manual car and drop the gear from 2nd to 1st when you decelerate without any rpm compensation and release the clutch very fast. This is where the Harsh Brake comes from. Now, the issue is worse than above scenario as the negative torque from the generator can vary based on rpm, battery charge state and whether the car is actually recovering energy or not. In above scenario, you can smooth out the gear change by e.g rpm compensation, slowly release clutch, or adjust the brake paddle force when drop gear. However, for auto, MHT car, you don't know when/how the car will drop gear, how the rpm and battery charge state will affect the negative torque, it is really hard to modulate the brake paddle to compensate the variation in stop force. For example, first time when you come to stop, the battery is fully charged so that there is no energy recovery taking place. So, all the stop force is from the brake system. Thus, you need to brake harder. Then, the next time you try to stop, the battery may be empty due to MHT motor assisting aceleration. If you still brake using the same force as before, the deceleration will be harsher than before. Finally, there are two, I think, most uncomfortable and sometime dangerous scenarios. First one is when you come to stop, the battery becomes fully charged (a threshold) half way through the deceleration especially when the car is in 2nd or 4th gear and the car is dropping gears. In this case, the energy recovery go away when the battery charge level reaches the threshold. As the speed is low so I'm quite close to the front car. Also, the gear is low so the torque enlarge effect is more so I actually apply less brake so that the combined (brake+energy recovery) stop force is enough to stop the car. But as the energy recovery go away (it is now quite a big force considering the gear ratio enlargement), all a sudden, the stop force is not enough and you need to immediately apply for brake (my wife says she actually feels the car is accelerating), which make the stop not smooth. The second scenario is when you are in 1st gear and the car's speed is around the threshold of having or not having energy recovery. In this case, sometime the 48v will kick in to have negative torque to slow the car. sometime it won't have anything at all to slow the car. It's hard to perdict so that hard to control. Overall, this is what I observed and thought about the mht 520d after about 1.5 year of driving. My solution so far is to either let the 48v do the early braking (energy recovery) without any brake input. Or, I will brake harder than I used to so that the brake force contribute most part of the stop force and the variation in the remaining force from the 48v is much less noticable.
  5. q96169we

    ISO Dashcam for G30/G31

    I currently have this one ( https://youtu.be/a6jDYKtXoiw ) travelling at the sea toward me to replace my 10 years old dashcam. Although the 10 years old dashcam is still going, it's a bit too big for my Z4 so want to replace it. Compared to the spec in the video, mine has 128GB internal memory, 4G mobile connectivity in addition. The price quoted in the video is $139 whereas the price in China is 659 RMB (about £75, most expensive I've bought so far) after all discounts being applied. Looking at the address printed on the bag of wire in this video, I even know where that is. I had stayed in that city for 15+ years.
  6. q96169we

    ISO Dashcam for G30/G31

    Tried to search some of my previous post about winter tyre. The video in those posts were from the 10 years old dashcam. See what you think about the quality. The resolution should be 1080p and the dashcam was about £30 when I bought it (exchange rate at that time is about 1:10). Personally, I won't buy it as I want a dashcam to be kind of install then forget device. It will work and the video quality should be similar to the video in those posts as mentioned above. But don't expect it to last for the entire duration of the 4 years PCP deal of the car. However, if one just need it for the last year or half of the PCP and don't bother to remove it when return or sell the car, then it won't let you down. To be honest, if you have some basic PCB soldering skill and enjoying doing some handy work, get one and when it goes wrong, it's either the outer shell cracked or some parts on the PCB need, what I describ as, top-up soldering to make the circuit board contact more secure. No further part will go wrong. Basically, the image sensor is likely from sony and the main chip is likely to be our Cortex-M3 based chip implemented by Taiwan companies and manufactured by TSMC. The reason it's so cheap compared to, let's say, NextBase is that the key components might be recycled parts. Someone buys a £250 nextbase dashcam (also made in China) in UK and may recycle it 5 years later due to same issue as above. The recycled dashcam is then dumped back to China where the key components are re-used to produce something new such as the £8.99 dashcam in your link. In China, these kind of dashcams are usually gifted if you buy something else (e.g a pressure washer for car).
  7. q96169we

    ISO Dashcam for G30/G31

    If you just want to know about how good is the dashcam and don't want any comment on the price, then I can tell you that all the dashcam brands from Amazon are all okay. Almost all of them use same/similar hardware + software solutions from Taiwan companies (if remember correctly, three of them supply solutions to 80% of dashcam including those famous brand in UK). Many of my friends in China installed them in their not only BMW (almost all series), but also other brands of cars. No issue at all and fit around the rear view mirror perfectly. Majority of them have lasted two to three years before any issue appears. Now, back to my initial comment about it's expensive. I've attached a screenshot of the price in China. Majority of them are retailed at between 299 RMB to 599 RMB (RMB is Chinese currency and the exchange rate at the moment is about 1GBP = 8.8RMB) and the 499/599 RMB one nowadays comes with 4K resolution, GPS, wifi, 4G Mobile connectivity for wifi hotspot and remote monitoring or even 360 degree surround recording (use three or four camera in one unit). Some latest one even have some ADAS functions built in. The one in your link is at about 300-400RMB range which is about 30-40GBP. Therefore, I think the price is so expensive and the trader must have more than 100% profit margin. Finally, about the quality. You may say that for £149 and only last two to three years, the made in China quality is so poor. I totally agree. If I pay £149 for a dashcam, I would expect it to last more than 10 years. However, considering the retail price of this (trade price is even lower) in the country where they are made, £30 dashcam lasts for 2-3 years, I think it's reasonable. In fact, my current two dashcams, when I bought, were about £100 in total and one of them are 10 years old and the other is 8 years old. They have written through their third SD card (Flash memory has limit on the amount data that can be written) and still going.
  8. q96169we

    ISO Dashcam for G30/G31

    My only comment is "expensive".
  9. q96169we

    Replacement tyre advice

    For x-drive, as long as it's one of the sizes shown on the tyre pressure plate at driver door frame and go with tyres that have 'star' mark, it should be fine. Otherwise, dealer may use the tyre as an excuse to decline drivetrain warranty claim. Some other forums mentioned that the non-star marked tyre may damage x-drive transfer box, which I don't know how true it is. I have friends with x-drive and have been running on non-star marked PS4s for several years and no issue so far. About the price and rim size, if you don't have blue m sport brake, 17-inch usually is the cheapest. However, go for 18-inch will only add £100-£200 more but it looks much better than 17-inch. With blue m sport brake, 17 can be put on but the gap is way too small between the rim drum and the caliper in the front so 18+ inch is recommended for car with m sport brake. I have 17inch as it's the cheapest option at the time I bought them.
  10. q96169we

    Replacement tyre advice

    If you don't have m sport brake (blue one), try 17 inch wheel on ebay. £300 for the alloy and 500 for the tyres. In total, £800. This is what I did last year. Or, go for 18 inch, maybe £100-£200 more.
  11. q96169we

    530e particulate filter not regenerating

    I read somewhere that the OPF regen in a different way than DPF. The DPF active regen by increasing the exhaust temp to burn the soot whereas the OPF regen while the engine is over-run which will introduce unburned fuel into exhause and burn there. So, if this is correct, then maybe try to run fully on the engine once per week regardless the battery status and see whether it solves the issue. My mild-hybrid car cut the engine off quite often when the engine over-run. I guess your full hybrid car will cut the engine off even more, which may indeed not help the OPF regen.
  12. q96169we

    G30 diesel filter

    I think self-bleeding means you don't need to do anything to bleed the system. Just change the filter as it should and the car will detect the change and bleed the fuel supply system itself.
  13. q96169we

    CarPlay, calling & iOS 15

    My car has iDrive 7 and I'm using the apple carplay to connect. I haven't noticed the issue with calls. I don't use amazon music so can't comment on this but other music playing is normal for me.
  14. q96169we

    Service Requirements Screen -F10 vs G30

    That's normal. The brake pad CBS never accurate in my F10 and the dealer reset it twice after checking the pad to stop the notification before it actually need to be changed. I guess BMW read the feedback and stop giving you the mileage counter in the G3x iDrive. As soon as the wear sensor detect the pad is near/below minimum, the notification will pop up in the iDrive again.
  15. q96169we

    any firmware update at service?

    If you service the car when CBS reminds you to do so (around 18k mile), then I think the new oil will make the engine run smoother than the old oil and response better than the old oil. If you change the oil around half of that mileage, there is still some differences but less noticeable. Also, dealer may reset some engine or gearbox driving style learning value, which will also make some differences. But, as Matthew said, dealer will not update the software unless there is an issue (either reported by you or found by bmw), in which case bmw calls it technical enhancement and the dealer will tell you when you drop off the car and sign the paperwork. If the issue is a major issue (dangerous to drive or break the law), then it is a recall and BMW will send you a letter, or at least the dealer should tell you.