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KOPFJAEGER

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About KOPFJAEGER

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    GT 535i F07N

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  1. KOPFJAEGER

    BMW wiring

    Thanks for the link for the wiring. I now have all the parts I need except the wiring and 3 connectors. Sources for these are known except for the X149*2B connector. From realoem, etc. This is a six pole connector, 2 rows of 3 connectors, part number ending in 7505225. I am struggling to source this socket and matching plug at the moment. As only 4 cables need terminating, it doesn't need to be a 6 pole connector. So could use a 4 pole plug and socket instead. The weather is starting to improve, so might be able to move this project forward. Just found the socket online from Scheidmann, in Denmark of all places...£2.72 ex VAT (£16.74 delivered to UK). Just need the matching socket. Hopefully Scheidmann can assist......
  2. Quick update on the coding front. Whilst the system works well, it consistently reports errors for the missing cameras. I have reset these using a carly obd scanner linked to carly app on phone several times. I am not unduly concerned, its just a nuisance! The check control through the idrive doesn't report any errors though.
  3. KOPFJAEGER

    Android auto retrofit

    Hi I saw this thread and windeted if any of you know / remember the label on the andream box wiring loom that you received? The one on my box says BMW F30 and I am checking if anyone had the same lead for an NBT option. This lead supplied with the box I bought, doesn't marry up with my wiring. Andream are insisting that all NBT looms are the same, but I'm not convinced. Their technical support has been oretty poor in my opinion. Their audio leads in their quadlock loom connect to the main system that has no pins, so not used and have no connections. The quadlock lead comes with two stereo jacks and an additional lead with wiring that have no equivalent in my car (F07N). Hence my thinking that they sent a lead for an F30. To check this, I modified the quadlock lead wiring by removing the 'wrong' wiring/leads and retrofitting new leads to interface with my 2016 F07N. I did this, so that I could reinstate Andream original wiring if required. The downside to this is that I had to use scotchlocks to piggyback on the quadlock loom compared to assumed soldered connections on the original andream lead. This modified wiring was the installed and tested. Apple Car play worked straight away (No good to me as I hate apple....been using PCs for 35 years...). Android auto wireless, was a pig, but I got this to work. I never finalised the install for two reasons - the screen resolution on the 10.25" display was not as good as the original BMW maps nd there was no obvious place to locate the box within the dash. Unless you are really commited to the box, I think a better way to go would be to replace the original screen. You can get 1920×720 resolution versions and with all the electronics built into the screen, no fiddly box to locate and fix. The disadvantage with this route, is the cost. Andream NBT/CIC bos is about £240. Hires screen replacements with 4G/64GB on Android 10 were about £400+, last time I checked.
  4. KOPFJAEGER

    BMW wiring

    An update on the tracer wiring. No joy with 1.5mm2 thin wall in the desired colours. However, in the spirit of trying to be authentic, I have two solutions. The first is to use tri-rated cabling instead of thin-wall. Tri-rated cabling matches /exceeds the thin wall performance, the only notional difference being an increase in overall diameter compared to thin wall, 3.2mm dia vs 2.3mm. For this application, the increase in diameter isn't an issue. The problem with this option is that both colour combinations are bespoke and require a minimum order of 100m. Total outlay for this would be £80+postage. This is a touch extravagant to spend £80+ for 20m or less of wiring, with 180m left to sit on a shelf! The supplier of this cabling is CSE cabling/distributors. The alternative, cheapskate solution is to use 1.5mm2 yellow tracer wire and add red or brown electrical type to create a spiral stripe as opposed to a parallel stripe. It maintains the color combination, and is the closest to authentic I can find at the moment. The only alternative to new wiring is to use existing, salvaged wiring loom from a Breaker from the X149*2B connector to the fog lamps. I doubt the wiring from the FRM to the X149*2B would be salvageable. There are very few breaking 5GTs with fog lamps for me to go this route, presently, but no rush!
  5. KOPFJAEGER

    BMW wiring

    Thanks. Curious that you put option code 3AG in the FRM; option code 3AG is for a reversing camera. I retrofitted this last year, so 3AG is already programmed into the car.
  6. KOPFJAEGER

    BMW wiring

    Hopefully, no coding required. On the console switch with fog lamps, it has the same 3 pins as the existing switch without front fog lamps, suggesting that it is switched internally and not software driven. Time will tell!
  7. KOPFJAEGER

    BMW wiring

    Thanks for the comments. On the wiring front, yellow/brown isn't an option in 1.5mm2 or 2mm2, only 1mm2. I will plan to use the 1.5mm2 wiring and worst case add some yellow electrical tape stripes at key locations to brown wiring to indicate yellow/brown. This should only be necessary at fog lamps, X149 connector, bulkhead and FRM. Once I have all the parts and install them, I can see about the coding. Gt 550s, I see advertised have M bumpers and fog lamps, the only difference on the basic cars here are the engines, N55 or N63. I doubt BMW would have different software/hardware for core design not related to the engines. Just need to sort out the X149*2B plug and socket connector and a bulkhead grommet. No actual work is likely to be done for a couple of months, but I like to get prepared in advance ( I retro fitted the 3AG option myself and paid a coder to add it to the system). I have software and cable plus a Carly OBD with 12 month support, so give this try once its all fitted. I am not keen on drilling the bulkhead for the wiring, but will cross that bridge when I come to it.
  8. KOPFJAEGER

    BMW wiring

    Thanks again for the prompt response. I've seen a Retrofit for fog lamps somewhere, but can't remember which site. I do think that the option needs to be coded though - I'll worry about that when I get there. I've done some more research on the wiring front and the 1.5mm2 cable preference may be due to the volt drop. I was assuming the distance from the FRM to the lamps and not the battery. The cables from the FRM to the X149 connector will be the same length, but since this connector notionally sits just under the NSF headlamp, direct wiring to each fog lamp will be different distances, e.g. NS fog lamp about 25cm, OS fog lamp about 1.5m. If volt drop is an issue, if I don't use the same length of cable to both lamps (e.g. worst case length for both), I could end up with one lamp brighter than the other. Thanks for the pin references. The only issues now are where to get 1.5mm2 yellow/brown wiring and a suitable grommet. I would prefer to use the existing penetration/grommet, but no one seems to have done this suggesting it isn't feasible. I've seen a grommet on the BMW parts list (part 7), that looks like a plate with an angled tube for the wires. This would be great because it would reduce any capillary action, but it doesn't give a full part number.
  9. KOPFJAEGER

    BMW wiring

    Thanks for the feedback. Automative grade thin wall 1mm2 cable is rated for 16.5A. P/V=I, hence 55/12=4.6A. The cable run from FRM to lamp will be less than 5-7m, so resistance and volt drop aren't an issue for the cable. Using 1mm2 cable means a smaller diameter hole in the bulkhead. Cable ratings degrade with temperature and grouping, but the wiring route isn't going to hug the hot parts. Nice to see a reference to the Z10*2B earth point, I haven't found a diagram for its location yet. Do you know, where this earthing location is? This project is still in the early stages of planning. With the poor winter weather and no garage, I'm not going to go rummaging around the car at the moment. I may have the code wrong, I am not planning on LED lights, going with zenons, so will check. I would prefer LEDs, but haven't seen this option in the wiring diagram. Most LEDs need a driver module. The research to date hasn't indicated LED fog lamp availability for Mbumpers, or any LED driver module, so not going to pursue this at the moment. The only LEDs on my 2016 F07N are the indicators, so I doubt the LED driver module for these are designed for or capable of driving fog lamps. I might consider retro fit lamps with built in drivers, if the exist, but not worried at the moment. The rest of the lights on the front are Xenons. This is the parts list: *51118050055 & 56 - M bumper fog light grilles - ordered. *61319192744 - console switch for fog lamps with self levelling lights-ordered *61132360041 x 2 - plugs and pins from wiring loom to fog lamps-will order from BMW *044361 & 62 Valeo (OEM) fog lamps for Msport bumpers *4 No fixing screws (for fog lamps to built in brackets on M bumper) *X149*2B - 6 pole plug/socket assembly - this provides local isolation between FRM and fog lamps (allows bumper to be removed easily). Don't have this part number yet. I don't need 6 pole, as there are only 4 wires, but trying to keep it authentic. *Pins to terminate wires in X149*2B - 4No - part number not resolved yet *Spades terminals(?) for connection to ground Z10*2b - part number not resolved yet. *bulkhead grommet - no idea for part number, but want something suitable for 5mm dia hole planning to drill *assorted cable ties *TESA wrap/cable sleeving
  10. KOPFJAEGER

    BMW wiring

    Do any members have any familiarity with BMW wiring? I am looking to retrofit front fog lamps to my F07N (option 5A1), I've no intention of paying £200 per hour for the privilege of main dealer installation! . I have the wiring diagram and note the requirement to use 1.5mm2 cable. The specification calls for 3 colours, yellow/red, yellow brown and brown. I've searched online and can only source this wire, to automotive standards in yellow/red and brown. It does not appear to be available in yellow/brown. I can obviously use another colour, but this won't be 'authentic'. However, I can get the correct wiring colours in 1mm2. This is where I am curious. 1mm2 wire can carry 16.5A. 1.5mm2 wire can carry 21 A. Front fog lamps, are rated for 55w, so for a 12V supply, that equates to no more than 4.6A. So 1mm2 can support nearly 4 times the required current and 1.5mm2 can support nearly 5 times the current. There are no other lamps or devices on this circuit. Two cables emanate from the FRM module and just go to the front fog lamps, so don't serve anything else? (see wiring diagrams). Any ideas? Anyone know where I can get yellow/brown 1.5mm2 automative wire (without a special order - manufacturers want 10km(!) minimum order and I think I need less than 10m). I can use 1mm2. I can't see this wiring available from BMW online shop, Realoem/BMW lists wiring but doesn't detail colour options or cable lengths.
  11. Neil, thanks for the response. I' found masata before I read your reply and they do replacement pipes for £320ish (pair). I can't seem to find any pipes without ports though. Pipes without ports should be cheaper, but I guess if there is no demand.....
  12. KOPFJAEGER

    BMW Dealer Servicing

    Took my F07N for its first service with me as the owner to a BMW dealer and wanted to share the experience. I bought the car second hand with a major service included with the car. The service plan expires at the end of December 2020, with the MOT due on 29/12/20, so booked the service with original dealer. They knew the car and the plan and no issues were raised when booked in some 8 weeks ago. The car was built on 30/11/16, but wasn't registered in the UK until January 2017. First call came later in the morning, asking if I wanted the MOT done. I said No, as I planned to get the MOT done at my local Garage over the Xmas break. A few minutes later, they called back to advise they couldn't do the service without a 'repair', as according to BMW rules the service wasn't due on the Car until January 2021 and could only be done earlier if it included repair work. So there is the bizarre situation that the previous owner paid for a 4 year service plan, but wouldn't have benefited from it on a time basis....... As I was quoted £650 for the major service from an independent BMW specialist, it would have been stupid to not pay £55 for the MOT to secure my 'free' major service. So I instructed them to do the MOT. The next call I get is the car has failed its MOT, on a single item, a rear tyre, slasb/cut with cord visible. So I need a new 275/35/102Y/R20. I asked for the cost, advising I could get one fitted for about £230. They quoted me about £330 inc VAT, after I sent them a snapshot of the tyre from another supplier fitted for £234 inc VAT. I advised that the maximum I would pay would be £250 Inc VAT. Their best price came back at £294 Inc VAT. So they aren't fitting the tyre...... I am getting the tyre fitted tomorrow, locally and taking it back for the retest to the BMW dealer on Friday.......... I wonder if they are going to have the audacity to find something else wrong with Car? People wonder why I am cynical, but with experiences like this, little wonder....... I'll let you know if I escape without another problem. As of today, the Car has only done 18,320 miles, and I've only done about 1500 since buying it back in February. So not decided yet whether to go with a service plan (cheap at about £24/month) for 36 months cover, a local independent BMW specialist, or my trusted garage for the last 20 years (they don't have the diagnostic gear, but may do....) Took the car to get the NSR replaced and discovered that the rear shock absorber gator (axillary damper protective sleeve in BMW speak) was missing. You can see in the photo with the shock absorber 99% of the corrugated part of the assembly has disappeared. These things can split and crack etc. but I think mine was cut off. There are a couple of shots showing the top in detail, it doesn't look like decay to me. (It's been serviced by one garage since new and none of the garages involved with car have ever taken the NSR wheel off. The previous owner was a GP in Holland Park and I can't someone like this with a warranted vehicle with a service plan mucking about with their Car's suspension! With no clear culprit to pin the blame on, I've bit the bullet and just got the work done. The 'damaged' placement part was £24; the aggravating bit was the top mount that was also recommended to be replaced at £74 and the £114 for the labour. I have also received a quotation for 3 years servicing to 60,000 miles/December 2024 that includes one minor (S1) and major service (S2), one MOT, 2 map updates and eight seasonal health checks for 36 monthly payments of £25, or single payment of £900. I am going to check with my local independent BMW specialist before making any rash decisions.....
  13. Has anyone replaced the stock boost and charge pipes with aluminium equivalents on the intercooler? . I've read that the stock plastic versions can fail, even on unmodified engines. I'm looking at replacing these, with more reliable versions, preferably without meth ports. Of the upgrades found online, so far, they are mostly associated with performance upgrades. I am currently making enquiries with FTP motorsports in Taiwan. I am also making enquiries with UK undependent BMW specialists. So if anyone has replaced stock plastic versions with aluminium, any information or advice would be appreciated.
  14. Finished the job last weekend. Paid a coder £70 to program 3AG into the Car. It didn't work initially, fault suspected in wiring (Canbus wiring). Turns out the wire taps need to be closed with pliers, not fingers... Did this and hey presto! It works. Worst part of the installation is getting nearside c pillar cover back on, without taking rear seats apart!
  15. Finally managed to remove the rear trim and LH rear light cluster. Despite the official instructions saying the lights need to be removed, in my case, i found it was not necessary, as you can release the retaining screws for the trunk lid without removing yhe lights. So the trunk lid is removed and replaced with the new one that holds the camera. That is the good news. The bad news is when i removed the original trunk lid grip, I discovered that it contained a cover for securing the back of the camera. This means I didn't need to purchase a separate cover or the 3 screws, as I could have used the existing one (£40 spent on this). The official instructions I have indicated that the cover was required, or maybe it was my interpretation. Curiously, the new trunk lid doesn't come with a cover for the camera. I think it is possible to modify the existing trunk lid grip to take the camera by removing what I would call the blanking plate where the camera sits. It is clearly marked, but would be fiddly....however, it would save you £110-£140 that you would spend on a new trunk lid grip. I have left the video cable coiled and cable tied to the trunk lid inner frame in preparation for routing this through the trunk lid and hatch into the body of the car. I might tackle this at the weekend. If I can get the cable from the trunk lid into the LH rear body area, the worst could be over........... Routing the cabling from LH rear wheel arch along the passenger side under the door sills should be easier. When I get to the A pillar, I am hoping I can use a draw wire to route from the A pillar into the central dash void, to avoid removing the glove box.
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