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    GT 535i F07N

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    Retrofitting Paddles to F07N

    Matthew, Thanks for the info. I have version of Launcher Pro which runs Esys 3.30.1. The vendor that sold me this has version 3.7 of launcher Pro that runs Esys version 3.34. This version can also programme G series cars, but there is a fee for £40 for activation, whether I use it or not. I am not inclined to pay £40 for functionality (G series programming...) I will never use. I would prefer to buy a copy from Tokenmaster, but as he has disappeared as of late 2019, there doesn't appear to be a legitimate way to obtain a copy of version 3+ launcher Pro........So unless there are updated PZDdata files for my F07N, I probably have the info suitable for my Car. As I have undertaken 3 of the 5 planned upgrades to my car (3AG, Fog lights and paddles), my requirements for coding is diminishing to the point of zero.

    Retrofitting Paddles to F07N

    . Hi, thanks for the comments. I have no concerns about the token for the software I have, but don't recall ever getting or crating a 4 digit pin as part of the installation. As I haven't used the Esys software yet, I was concerned that if the requirement for a pin materialised, I would be unable to implement the changes. As the paddles were coded using Bimmer code, I doubt the FA was updated to add 2TB to the VA. In the FRM CAFD there is an option to activate the paddles, which is what I am guessing is the only change made to my car. Until I run Esys on it to check the FA, I won't know.
  3. Has anyone retrofitted top view (SA3HA?) or surround view (SA5DL?) to their BMW? Having treated my expensive 20" style 303 rims to a dose of kerb rash, all round, I figure that this might be a worthwhile investment. I am not keen on the full 5DL upgrade, as reports from the forums on the side view cameras, suggest they are vulnerable to corrosion, cameras and wiring. There is also the wiring and the routing of the two cables through the firewall. There is a route for the OSF side, through a 20mm grommet utilised for the front fog lamp upgrade I recently completed. The NS of the firewall is more of a problem as I am not keen on removing the A/C evaporator assembly and front fuse box to see if i can find an aperture for the NS camera wiring. The top view option is more appealing as this will give me a side view of the car, which will assist when parking. I am sure that there are bound to be comments about learning to park properly to avoid doing expensive retrofits to compensate for lacking perfect parking skills, but judging by the amount of road rash on alloy wheels across numerous brands, I am clearly a) not alone, or b) in the minority. For those of you with zero road rash on your rims, I salute your superior parking abilities. At the the present time I have the TRSVC ECU module installed and purchased a centre console PDC/Camera/ride selector switch ready to replace the existing PDC/ride selector switch. As far as I can tell, there are no additional wiring modifications required apart from wiring in the cameras and the cameras as well. I have not been able to source a BMW retrofit guide for 5DL, so assume that no other changes are required apart from Wing mirrors/cameras and interconnecting HSD wiring. Now the tricky part . In my initial naivety, I assumed that I could retrofit the top view cameras to the existing wing mirrors, by swapping out the wing mirror bottom plate (There is a special version that has a hole for the camera and a mounting bracket to replace the existing non camera versions) and fitting the new HSD wire. I thought that this was a single wire from ECU straight to the camera through the body and door. Well it isn't. The wiring comprises 3 discrete sections. The first, from the Camera in the wing mirror to the Wing Mirror connector that mates to the car door - I'll call this the octopus connector, as it resembles a suction cup on an octopus and comes in different colours. I have seen Black, Blue and Yellow Connectors. All of them appear to have a preformed aperture for a 4 Pin HSD wire as well as between 1 and 3 separate terminal connections, variously referred to as 3, 5 or 7 pin, excluding the HSD connector ( I am also only talking about the F07N, other models have different pin layouts and connections). I am reliably informed that all the F07Ns (LCI models) have a minimum of 5 pins (Power fold/heated/auto dimming), with some models having an extra two pins if they have blind spot detection. So seriously difficult to mod an existing wing mirror. In order to overcome this complication, I am exploring swapping out the non camera mirrors for versions with cameras. Online investigation hasn't yet provided me with a source of 5 pin RHD mirrors for an F07. I also thought that I could use versions from say an F10, but I have been informed that the baseplates are different and can't be swapped. As of writing, I am not sure if the baseplates on the wing mirrors are unique to the F07N or share the same baseplates with the F01 or F02 ( the F07 is a hybrid of Series 7 and Series 5 parts.....it is referred to as a 7 series hatchback.......so I got lucky getting a 7 series for 5 series money....). This doesn't really help as I haven't come across a source of any 7 series camera wing mirrors either! So the only option at the moment is BMW. Non Camera wing mirrors for my F07N are £560 each. The versions with cameras, but not blind spot indicators are £650 each ( 51167459555 and 51167352366 - this needs checking) and the all singing versions with everything are £700+ each. So I am looking at £1300 just for the wing mirrors. I also need 4 HSD wires, wing mirror to body and body to ECU module for the LH and RH. I haven't found the codes for the door HSD wires (these would be between 30-70cm long) and no idea of costs. I have the following references for the body HSD wires (61119327526 & 61119327527 - needs checking) with an official cost of circa £345 for the pair (that puts the component cost, new from a stealer at £1642 and still two HSD cables short, never mind what I don't know about). I am assuming that the door HSD wiring can be routed from the Wing mirror through the door via the existing umbilical to the large connector on the body. Sods law would suggest that this connector would need replacing with a new one with a suitable receptacle for the HSD wire. So this upgrade is going nowhere presently if I have to fork out £1350+ for the Cameras, so I am on the look out for 'used' options (no rush, I plan to keep the Car for 10 years + so have time). Taking the door cards off to remove the existing wing mirrors and route the wiring will be a major pain. I'm not concerned about routing the wiring within the body (done that for the 3AG retrofit) or dashboard. So whilst this is on hold pending sourcing some affordable wing mirrors. Below might be the next upgrade. BEYOND THE TOP VIEW RETROFIT.................. Now for the really interesting part of this upgrade. I think that the Car should have a front Camera. It doesn't have a factory option version, but there are plenty of 3rd party front cameras that interface to a screen (although not the BMW screen natively). So I am planning a factory version upgrade, using OEM parts. I propose to take a side view camera and mount it on the front bumper between the two grilles. This will then connect to the TRSVC module using OEM HSD wiring. Remember there is room in the 20mm aperture on the drivers side to route an HSD camera for the OS bumper (6.5m HSD cable). All that is required is an additional HSD wire to run an extra 1m-1.5m. from where the 6.5m cable terminates to cover the shortfall to the sideview camera installed in the front bumper. I am assuming that the extra 1-1.5m of cable won't degrade the signal quality of transmitted video from camera to TRSVC module. My current TRSVC module is coded for 3AG (reverse camera) which works. I do have error codes for the 4 cameras that are missing (From ISTA/Carly) but it doesn't flag any faults that the stealers have raised when it went in for its last service and these error codes are confined to the TRSVC module, so not critical or safety errors. SO in theory, this should work. The 'new' front camera would be activated by operation of the camera switch on the centre console. Some views would be blank, due to the missing cameras, but I have a hunch that there would be a view from the retasked side view camera. This can be tested before full installation by jury rigging a camera to a cable connected to the TRSVC white connector (RH bumper camera connection) and the PDC/Camera/Ride selector switch fitted. If this works then the installation could be undertaken properly (I don't want to drill a hole in an £800-1000 MSport bumper if it isn't going to work........). Anyone got a camera and cable that they could lend to test this option? If the test proves valid, then the only upgrade to this version would be a software hack to the TRSVC ECU to update the code to reflect only 4 views required as opposed to 5. This is feasible if the code is in an eprom as opposed to a PROM or IC. I couldn't do the coding, but I am sure that I could find a bright spark who would relish the challenge to reverse engineer the code and then tweak it for a 4 view display. Coding wise it shouldn't be that difficult. Reverse engineering the code in the TRSVC module is the hard part, especially if it is encrypted. The guys at XDA forum are brilliant at this sort of coding challenge. They have accessed encrypted partitions on phones, etc.to change BIOS, OS, etc. Any comments/suggestions? If anyone has a PDF copy of a 5DL retrofit, I would appreciate a copy.....
  4. Hi, everyone, I've just retro-fitted paddles to my F07N. I didn't want to spend a fortune at my local stealer, so grabbed a bargain via Ebay. As I used this source for my 3AG retrofit and front fog lamps, I saw no reason to not do so again. Official price for the paddles alone is £315. I bought the paddles, wiring loom and new rear cover for £163, for 'Genuine parts'. I managed to ruin the rear cover, so bought a new one from a local stealer for £36 and couldn't tell any difference between either (apart from the new holes I managed to create in the ebay version, when I put in the two retaining screws before fitting the front cover ). Watched several videos on Youtube to see what was involved before getting down to the install. My car has an Msport steering wheel, but wasn't predrilled for the paddles. SO I had to drill two holes and two recesses for the paddles. On You-tube, they used 5/16" drill bits, but this is the wrong size. the correct size for the holes, is more like 3/16", but I used a 4.5mm HSS bit. The holes are used to secure the paddles to the frame of the steering wheel. A 1.8-2mm recess is also required adjacent to the holes for small plastic 'nipple' on each paddle. This allows the base of the paddle to suit parallel to the inclined arms of the steering wheel. I couldn't find any You-tube videos for this modification to an F07, but plenty for other models. The videos are a good guide, except for the wiring of the paddles. All the Videos state and show the paddle connection at the end of the new wiring loom connect to the RHS of the steering wheel (+ paddle). THIS ISN'T THE CASE FOR AN F07N. On mine, doing this would require the short cable to route underneath the air bag module (bad idea..) and barely reached. SO I connected the short terminal to the + paddle and the long terminal to the - paddle. Wiring was neat, so seemed OK and proved to be correct post programming. Once installed the paddles need to be programmed. For my Car, there appeared to be at least two choices, 2TB, 2TE, the former being Automatic Sport transmission, or automatic transmission with paddle shifters. I have a copy of Esys, but never done any programming, but came to a potential halt, as I couldn't find a PIN code. All the tutorial videos I saw for using Esys show a requirement to enter a 4 digit pin as part of the coding process. As I don't have a pin code, I had to get an alternative solution. It wasn't an option on the carly adaptor I have with my current subscription, so I called a local coder (Auto Tuner London - I can share details if anyone wants them). He came the same day and using Bimmercode through his Iphone added in the paddle shift update, digital speed display and temperature display on my TPMS display. He offered more, but that was all that I wanted. I paid £50, as this was his minimum charge for up to an hour of his time. He made sure the updates worked and there were no errors before leaving. He also e-mailed me the files for the ECUS prior to the modifications, so I was pleased with the service and the results. On to the next upgrade. I presently only have two left. Android Head unit installaton and possible top view retrofit. I will add separate posts for these. The Android update should be straightforward, the top view ( SA3HA option) more exotic and expensive....................

    BMW wiring

    Thanks for the link for the wiring. I now have all the parts I need except the wiring and 3 connectors. Sources for these are known except for the X149*2B connector. From realoem, etc. This is a six pole connector, 2 rows of 3 connectors, part number ending in 7505225. I am struggling to source this socket and matching plug at the moment. As only 4 cables need terminating, it doesn't need to be a 6 pole connector. So could use a 4 pole plug and socket instead. The weather is starting to improve, so might be able to move this project forward. Just found the socket online from Scheidmann, in Denmark of all places...£2.72 ex VAT (£16.74 delivered to UK). Just need the matching socket. Hopefully Scheidmann can assist......
  6. Quick update on the coding front. Whilst the system works well, it consistently reports errors for the missing cameras. I have reset these using a carly obd scanner linked to carly app on phone several times. I am not unduly concerned, its just a nuisance! The check control through the idrive doesn't report any errors though.

    Android auto retrofit

    Hi I saw this thread and windeted if any of you know / remember the label on the andream box wiring loom that you received? The one on my box says BMW F30 and I am checking if anyone had the same lead for an NBT option. This lead supplied with the box I bought, doesn't marry up with my wiring. Andream are insisting that all NBT looms are the same, but I'm not convinced. Their technical support has been oretty poor in my opinion. Their audio leads in their quadlock loom connect to the main system that has no pins, so not used and have no connections. The quadlock lead comes with two stereo jacks and an additional lead with wiring that have no equivalent in my car (F07N). Hence my thinking that they sent a lead for an F30. To check this, I modified the quadlock lead wiring by removing the 'wrong' wiring/leads and retrofitting new leads to interface with my 2016 F07N. I did this, so that I could reinstate Andream original wiring if required. The downside to this is that I had to use scotchlocks to piggyback on the quadlock loom compared to assumed soldered connections on the original andream lead. This modified wiring was the installed and tested. Apple Car play worked straight away (No good to me as I hate apple....been using PCs for 35 years...). Android auto wireless, was a pig, but I got this to work. I never finalised the install for two reasons - the screen resolution on the 10.25" display was not as good as the original BMW maps nd there was no obvious place to locate the box within the dash. Unless you are really commited to the box, I think a better way to go would be to replace the original screen. You can get 1920×720 resolution versions and with all the electronics built into the screen, no fiddly box to locate and fix. The disadvantage with this route, is the cost. Andream NBT/CIC bos is about £240. Hires screen replacements with 4G/64GB on Android 10 were about £400+, last time I checked. By way of an update, I bit the bullet this year and have bought a Wondefoo Android head unit with a 1920x720 screen with Android Auto built-in. My plan is to install this and see what improvement is a) over the original screen (will keep as a spare) b) how much better it will be than the Andream unit. If it works out, I will have an nearly new Andream unit that will need a new owner!

    BMW wiring

    An update on the tracer wiring. No joy with 1.5mm2 thin wall in the desired colours. However, in the spirit of trying to be authentic, I have two solutions. The first is to use tri-rated cabling instead of thin-wall. Tri-rated cabling matches /exceeds the thin wall performance, the only notional difference being an increase in overall diameter compared to thin wall, 3.2mm dia vs 2.3mm. For this application, the increase in diameter isn't an issue. The problem with this option is that both colour combinations are bespoke and require a minimum order of 100m. Total outlay for this would be £80+postage. This is a touch extravagant to spend £80+ for 20m or less of wiring, with 180m left to sit on a shelf! The supplier of this cabling is CSE cabling/distributors. The alternative, cheapskate solution is to use 1.5mm2 yellow tracer wire and add red or brown electrical type to create a spiral stripe as opposed to a parallel stripe. It maintains the color combination, and is the closest to authentic I can find at the moment. The only alternative to new wiring is to use existing, salvaged wiring loom from a Breaker from the X149*2B connector to the fog lamps. I doubt the wiring from the FRM to the X149*2B would be salvageable. There are very few breaking 5GTs with fog lamps for me to go this route, presently, but no rush!

    BMW wiring

    Thanks. Curious that you put option code 3AG in the FRM; option code 3AG is for a reversing camera. I retrofitted this last year, so 3AG is already programmed into the car.

    BMW wiring

    Hopefully, no coding required. On the console switch with fog lamps, it has the same 3 pins as the existing switch without front fog lamps, suggesting that it is switched internally and not software driven. Time will tell!

    BMW wiring

    Thanks for the comments. On the wiring front, yellow/brown isn't an option in 1.5mm2 or 2mm2, only 1mm2. I will plan to use the 1.5mm2 wiring and worst case add some yellow electrical tape stripes at key locations to brown wiring to indicate yellow/brown. This should only be necessary at fog lamps, X149 connector, bulkhead and FRM. Once I have all the parts and install them, I can see about the coding. Gt 550s, I see advertised have M bumpers and fog lamps, the only difference on the basic cars here are the engines, N55 or N63. I doubt BMW would have different software/hardware for core design not related to the engines. Just need to sort out the X149*2B plug and socket connector and a bulkhead grommet. No actual work is likely to be done for a couple of months, but I like to get prepared in advance ( I retro fitted the 3AG option myself and paid a coder to add it to the system). I have software and cable plus a Carly OBD with 12 month support, so give this try once its all fitted. I am not keen on drilling the bulkhead for the wiring, but will cross that bridge when I come to it.

    BMW wiring

    Thanks again for the prompt response. I've seen a Retrofit for fog lamps somewhere, but can't remember which site. I do think that the option needs to be coded though - I'll worry about that when I get there. I've done some more research on the wiring front and the 1.5mm2 cable preference may be due to the volt drop. I was assuming the distance from the FRM to the lamps and not the battery. The cables from the FRM to the X149 connector will be the same length, but since this connector notionally sits just under the NSF headlamp, direct wiring to each fog lamp will be different distances, e.g. NS fog lamp about 25cm, OS fog lamp about 1.5m. If volt drop is an issue, if I don't use the same length of cable to both lamps (e.g. worst case length for both), I could end up with one lamp brighter than the other. Thanks for the pin references. The only issues now are where to get 1.5mm2 yellow/brown wiring and a suitable grommet. I would prefer to use the existing penetration/grommet, but no one seems to have done this suggesting it isn't feasible. I've seen a grommet on the BMW parts list (part 7), that looks like a plate with an angled tube for the wires. This would be great because it would reduce any capillary action, but it doesn't give a full part number.

    BMW wiring

    Thanks for the feedback. Automative grade thin wall 1mm2 cable is rated for 16.5A. P/V=I, hence 55/12=4.6A. The cable run from FRM to lamp will be less than 5-7m, so resistance and volt drop aren't an issue for the cable. Using 1mm2 cable means a smaller diameter hole in the bulkhead. Cable ratings degrade with temperature and grouping, but the wiring route isn't going to hug the hot parts. Nice to see a reference to the Z10*2B earth point, I haven't found a diagram for its location yet. Do you know, where this earthing location is? This project is still in the early stages of planning. With the poor winter weather and no garage, I'm not going to go rummaging around the car at the moment. I may have the code wrong, I am not planning on LED lights, going with zenons, so will check. I would prefer LEDs, but haven't seen this option in the wiring diagram. Most LEDs need a driver module. The research to date hasn't indicated LED fog lamp availability for Mbumpers, or any LED driver module, so not going to pursue this at the moment. The only LEDs on my 2016 F07N are the indicators, so I doubt the LED driver module for these are designed for or capable of driving fog lamps. I might consider retro fit lamps with built in drivers, if the exist, but not worried at the moment. The rest of the lights on the front are Xenons. This is the parts list: *51118050055 & 56 - M bumper fog light grilles - ordered. *61319192744 - console switch for fog lamps with self levelling lights-ordered *61132360041 x 2 - plugs and pins from wiring loom to fog lamps-will order from BMW *044361 & 62 Valeo (OEM) fog lamps for Msport bumpers *4 No fixing screws (for fog lamps to built in brackets on M bumper) *X149*2B - 6 pole plug/socket assembly - this provides local isolation between FRM and fog lamps (allows bumper to be removed easily). Don't have this part number yet. I don't need 6 pole, as there are only 4 wires, but trying to keep it authentic. *Pins to terminate wires in X149*2B - 4No - part number not resolved yet *Spades terminals(?) for connection to ground Z10*2b - part number not resolved yet. *bulkhead grommet - no idea for part number, but want something suitable for 5mm dia hole planning to drill *assorted cable ties *TESA wrap/cable sleeving

    BMW wiring

    Do any members have any familiarity with BMW wiring? I am looking to retrofit front fog lamps to my F07N (option 5A1), I've no intention of paying £200 per hour for the privilege of main dealer installation! . I have the wiring diagram and note the requirement to use 1.5mm2 cable. The specification calls for 3 colours, yellow/red, yellow brown and brown. I've searched online and can only source this wire, to automotive standards in yellow/red and brown. It does not appear to be available in yellow/brown. I can obviously use another colour, but this won't be 'authentic'. However, I can get the correct wiring colours in 1mm2. This is where I am curious. 1mm2 wire can carry 16.5A. 1.5mm2 wire can carry 21 A. Front fog lamps, are rated for 55w, so for a 12V supply, that equates to no more than 4.6A. So 1mm2 can support nearly 4 times the required current and 1.5mm2 can support nearly 5 times the current. There are no other lamps or devices on this circuit. Two cables emanate from the FRM module and just go to the front fog lamps, so don't serve anything else? (see wiring diagrams). Any ideas? Anyone know where I can get yellow/brown 1.5mm2 automative wire (without a special order - manufacturers want 10km(!) minimum order and I think I need less than 10m). I can use 1mm2. I can't see this wiring available from BMW online shop, Realoem/BMW lists wiring but doesn't detail colour options or cable lengths.
  15. Neil, thanks for the response. I' found masata before I read your reply and they do replacement pipes for £320ish (pair). I can't seem to find any pipes without ports though. Pipes without ports should be cheaper, but I guess if there is no demand.....