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waiter

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  1. Thanks @Andrew535i - write up came in handy for me too, some notes which might be useful for others: - I had vibration under braking - was hoping it might be friction material on the rotors, but mine were defo warped - I used ate pads and disks from auto doc (good quality gear, good price and the right parts) - I’ve got a bog standard 520d - so while my brakes are smaller the process is basically the same as Andrew wrote - except there was no need to remove the caliper cradle - disk came out without doing that I also did the reset using Andrew’s other post - but I had problems with that. My pads were part worn and were showing 18k miles remaining on the idrive. I fitted a new (bmw) wear sensor I did the reset - and it said reset successful - but stayed at 18k which I wasn’t expecting. I drove a bit over the next few days and at some point the idrive started moaning about 400 miles to go and then got down to zero and gave more warnings. I ignored these until yesterday (because I knew all was good) when I tried a reset again which failed, so took a look and realised the wear sensor cable was cut. I can only think it must have happened when I put the wheel back on - the cable was still securely clipped in the right places - so my extra bit of advice is not to be a cack handed twat when refitting the wheel!
  2. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    Thanks @Boba, maybe I’m being dumb, but if I see 12v without the bulbs in and pretty much nothing with the bulbs in - plus when I measure resistance to be the same either directly at the bulb or at the carrier plug, do you still think that is the case (high resistance somewhere in the carrier)? (thinking about it again now that has just given me one more thing to test - disconnect one of the clusters from the carrier wiring and connect to the car to see what happens, hmm)
  3. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    Thanks again Andrew - I checked with another (better quality) meter and I get the same results. Checked a whole load of different (new and other working) bulbs and when the bulb is cold I get the same resistance directly at the bulb as I do at the pins on the bike carrier plug. i did a tiny bit of googling and this suggests that what I’m seeing may not be wrong - just that you would get very high resistance with a cold bulb: https://uk.rec.cars.misc.narkive.com/AW5VzYJK/resistence-of-5w-bulb-ohm-s-law i ran some more tests and found another thing - I can plug the carrier into the car without the brake bulbs in place - when I do that I get warnings on the car (expected as the bulb is missing and circuits are broken), but the car sends 12v to the brake circuit in the carrier. soon as I put the bulbs back in I get almost zero voltage at the bulb holder in the carrier. I guess from this that the car maybe thinks I have a short on the circuit (rather than open circuit/failed bulb) - so has killed power to the circuit? Does that make sense? I’m gonna get in touch with Thule to see if they can help.
  4. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    thanks @535i Andrew - maths isn’t much of a problem (gotta degree in that), but physics and electrics not so much. Would you mind explaining how you work that out? I know my meter has various settings for resistance. I used the one marked 200 ohm and this evening with both bulbs in the bulb holders in the cluster I get 0.6 on the meter. This evening with one bulb removed I get 1 on the meter (same 200 ohm setting). Same both sides - either left or right bulb removed. I’m sure that when I tried this yesterday I got same reading with either one or two bulbs in and that plus the bulbs being wired in parallel led me to assume resistance was the same with one or two bulbs when in parallel. The bulbs are filament not led jobs. They’re twin filament - one for brake, one for tail. I think they’re normally known as 380’s (that’s what’s one the Lucas box). On the bulb is P21/5W - assume this means one filament is 21w and the second is 5w, so guess the tail is 21w and brake 5w? Is that right?
  5. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    I’ve changed bulbs again and made some progress, but I still have the trailer brake fault! If anyone has it, I’d like to get some more info on what checks the car does when it has a trailer plugged into it. I saw from a previous topic that you guys have discussed this before - On ISTA for the trailer brake fault it says (amongst other things): - Light source is faulty. - OR Open circuit on feed line of light. - OR Feed line of the lights has short circuit to positive terminal. From that other topic I understand that the car tests the trailer lighting circuits - it checks that the circuit isn’t open (i.e. bulb blown or wiring broken/disconnected) and it checks for no shorts - from that other topic it seems the car does this by checking the circuits and expecting some resistance on each one. To understand this a bit better and make sure I’m checking methodically I drew out the wiring for my bike carrier (attached). Then I got my meter and checked for continuity / resistance between pin 3 (earth) and pin 6 (brake lights) on the plug of my carrier. The result of this is that the circuit isn’t open and there is some resistance. If I understood this all correctly I don’t think with my carrier the car would be able to detect if one brake light bulb is blown - cause the bulbs (each side) are fed from a single source and wired in parallel. Does that make sense? Other than the continuity / resistance checks I’ve done - is there anything else I can check for? When ISTA says “Light source is faulty” does that mean it could be the car? thanks in advance for any suggestions!
  6. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    I like the car @535i Andrew, but also like the bike - and need it to help keep the middle aged gut at bay! I'll have another look (methodically) at the wiring on the carrier and the bulbs. The carrier was new - and it is an option to return it, just I bought it over the internet - and would be aggro to have to package it up and send back.
  7. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    Thanks again. I plugged in an old lighting board (via a 13 -> 7 pin adapter) - and I get no errors, the lights on the ancient lighting board work fine - so this all points to problem with the wiring on the bloody bike carrier. I feel like I've checked just about everything feasible on the carrier, but if you guys have any other suggestions of things to check on the carrier I'd really appreciate it. (Feel like I've spent so long on this I must be close to working out where the problem is) cheers
  8. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    Thanks again gents. @535i Andrew - between those two mileages (kilometre-ages) you mentioned - the towbar was extended, bike rack was plugged into the 13 pin socket. It's possible the car's been in a rear end shunt - although no sign of anything. I will take another look at the wiring in the under boot compartment & down to the towbar. @Matthew Ashton - thx again for the offer, am going to see if a friend of a friend can sort me out - that's next on my to do list. Cheers In the meantime, I read and then cleared the codes again as @535i Andrew suggested, disconnected the carrier from the car (leaving towbar extended). When I read them (i.e. before clearing) I got a new code - relating to a microswitch. Output from ISTA attached. After taking the car out for half an hour (with carrier disconnected) I read codes again - and there was nothing - so this hints at it being a problem with the carrier rather than the car. ISTA microswitch faulty.pdf
  9. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    And here we go with the fault logs. About the vehicle wiring potentially being faulty - if that was the case that it was faulty - would you only expect to see errors with something plugged into the 13 pin socket? Thanks again ISTA trailer brake fault.pdf ISTA trailer left indicator fault.pdf ISTA trailer left tail light fault.pdf ISTA trailer right tail light fault.pdf
  10. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    Cheers, here are a couple of screengrabs from ISTA. I'll get the fault log in a bit and share. I don't have easy access to another 13 pin trailer/lighting board
  11. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    Cheers Andrew. Since your last message I’ve tried a couple of things but I’ve still not got this sorted. I decided to order a couple of new 380 bulbs (the double filament main and brake bulb). While I was waiting for them I realised had a known good one on the old Honda, switched that over - and gave the carrier a try. Still no luck - same problem as before. I also swapped out the number plate bulb (which is effectively same circuit) for another - also no joy. I started to get ISTA setup on a laptop a few weeks back so a couple of days later got round to finishing setup of that. Ran tests and sure enough there are a number of faults logged. I noted them (got them on computer - will post up later), then cleared them. After clearing the faults - having kept ignition on the lights all worked. Boom, or so I thought - although at that point I was then wondering what it was which actually fixed it - the swapped bulb or clearing the codes. Turned the car off, left it for a bit and was gonna go out in it later - only for the same errors to flash up on the dash and be logged in check control on the idrive. Back to some of the bulbs not working on the carrier. Read the codes on ISTA - same as last time. cleared them again, just in case - but they come back as they did before. So now I’m a bit stuck. I will post up the diagnosis info from ISTA shortly, but I think it’s basically what I’ve already done. Because the lights work for a bit after clearing the codes it seems like the codes get logged when the ignition is off for more than 15 mins or so. Does anyone know why this would be? Ive got the new bulb now - and I can swap it over, but I’m doubtful that alone will fix it! Any other suggestions very welcome now cheers guys
  12. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    An update - the green cap for the 13 pin plug arrived the other day and this evening I got some time to take it all apart again and do some more checks. After all this faffing (diagnosis) when I got the 13 pin plug apart I’d been hoping there would be an obvious short where the cables terminated into the pins - but there was nothing. I still had continuity between pins 6 and 7. I checked the cluster on the carrier again and realised I could dismantle the wiring running from the plug (to the cluster). When I did that there was no continuity between those pins at the 13 pin plug. After making and breaking that connection, double checking and a bit more head scratching I wondered if the problem was caused by making the connection. Then I noticed my schoolboy error - the cluster has “main” lamps and number plate illumination lamps. The number plate illumination lamp shares the cluster earth (obvs) and the power to the number plate lamp feeds off the main lamp (also obvs in hindsight). So the continuity I was seeing all along and not expecting was cause I failed to take out the number plate illumination bulb doh So my newest theory is that my problem is down to a failed bulb - the twin filament main / brake light. It’s clearly not failed in the traditional blown sense, so I’m wondering maybe failed with no resistance on one circuit? Next step - have a look to swap that bulb out.
  13. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    Thanks Matthew - that makes sense - despite my German being non existent! i ordered a green cap the other day - will hopefully be here soon. I’ll let you know how I get on.
  14. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    Cheers guys. I did loosen the nut holding the wires in place and slid the rubber bung/ grommet down the wires. Couldn’t see an obvious way of getting the rest apart. Did try nudging the inner part out with a screwdriver (contacting the back of the unconnected pins) - it moved a tiny amount, but I was reluctant to force it.
  15. waiter

    Towbar wiring help

    Cheers Andrew, unfortunately mine doesn’t seem to dismantle in the same way, seems like your outer part is two pieces and mine a single piece (unless I’m being blind). mine is labelled aspock (https://www.aspoeck.com/en) - can’t seem to find anything on the manufacturer’s site about how it comes apart.
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