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Everything posted by FLX

  1. FLX

    Wheel spacers

    Same as dirtydirtydiesel, I run 12mm up front on the same sizes without issue. Could be that the 15mm spacer is a touch too much. There is a difference in offsets between E60 and E46/Z4 MV2s but I'm guessing your summer wheels are the E60 MV2s as they sit closer to the arch. Maybe worth checking the spring in that corner.
  2. The rubber on my vents were knackered on my non sunroof E60, though it was only the battery side that collected water. Could be worth a check.
  3. FLX


    Maybe my E60 is a bad example but the rust at both sides of the fuel tank and above the rear subframe are some early signs I would say. Body and wheel arches are in good shape though.
  4. FLX

    Ford Granada Scorpio Tryke!!

    I've long ago given up faith in ebay bidding, too easy for shilling to drive up prices. Looks like theres only 5 bidders going at it anyhow, don't know who would actually want to spend that sort of money on something so gaudy though. Those front shock mounts are worrying. Since 2006 it's only done 1,573 miles according to the DVLA, must be great fun to drive! /s
  5. FLX

    '05 E60 530d Manual - Underside refresh

    Got a bit lazy with the updates, passed the MOT back in december and been going good since then. Happy with the ride comfort, thought it might have been harsher though it's hard to say with going so long between driving it standard and now. Could go lower but I can't really be bothered with rubbing arches and scraping over speedbumps. Since the last update it's also had: - Auxilliary belt kit and water pump - Strip on the bottom inside of the front bumper for the undertray, didn't notice it was missing - Attempted repair on the parking sensors, had a blown transistor on the module but not investigated further - AUX port fitted inside of armrest and coded in - Clutch pedal bushes and rubber stop - Bonnet release/OBD port mount, broke this due to the bonnet catches seizing up - greased them up - Glow plug module and Alternator>Module cable - Still have glow plug codes so will replace the plugs at some point - Painted the parcel shelf black - was bleached purple with the sun - Alignment Swapped over to the staggered radial/concave style 32s, replaced the run flats on the front with Michelin PS4s. I've also used a clay bar on the paint, there was a lot of crap stuck to it. Nice and smooth now, just don't look too closely... it's still got plenty of scratches, swirl marks and stone chips Overall I'm very happy with how it's turned out, there are still improvements to be made but I'm liking it as it stands. Thanks for reading if you got this far!
  6. I meant to start this earlier but here we are now! I've been driving cars for around 12 years, riding bikes for around 15. Used to be into VW's early on but I lacked the skills, knowledge and money to do them any justice. I abandoned a Caddy Sport project and later a Mk2 Golf too as life got in the way and my passion for VW waned. I miss that Caddy. My first BMW was a tatty green E36 318iS that I just never really got on with, it hadn't been looked after and I grew to dislike the green and cloth grey combo. The car that finally clicked was an immaculate E46 328Ci with 43k on it, I put an easy 70k on it over 9 years without any major issues. Last year I started to think about getting the paint seen to and making it a bit more fast road/drift orientated. This is a poor pic but I thought it was neat next to the 840. I've had a set of those Style 5's for years too, I just wish they were 18"! I figured I would pick up a solid daily driver in the mean time as I didn't fancy commuting in the winter on my bikes, been there, done that, not doing it again It had to be a BMW (non E46), manual and have no major rust. The heart wanted an E30 or E34 but rust concerns nudged the head towards something newer. I looked around but I kept coming back to this car, the interior reminded me of the Interlagos/Mystic Blue and Cinnamon E46 M3s. I had my eye on an E61 that should have been the second car I looked at but I had convinced myself this car was the car for me! It's an '05 E60 530d 6 speed Manual in Carbon black with Dakota 'rotorange' interior, I picked it up with just under 130k miles. CR82531 is the VIN. One of the few pictures early into ownership: I grew to enjoy the 530d way more than I thought I would, though the to do list seemed to be ever growing. I decided not to go down the road of messing around any more with the E46 and sold it. I'm looking to make changes in other parts of my life so the extra time and money will help, I'll sure miss her though. I'm not too into mods, I like having my touch on it but close to OEM is what I aim for. So far I have done: - Fixed the drivers cupholder. Priorities right?! It was an easy fix, gently pried it open, removed and filed the release mechanism button. - Ashtray was stuck forward. Another gentle wriggle and it functions as it should, not that I'd let anyone smoke in the car anyway. - Air filter, previous one was sealed but the orange foam hadn't been seated correctly. Fair few leaves and crud found in the housing around the filter. - Pollen filters. Checked under the scuttle trays for water - bit dirty but dry. - Replaced gear knob, the leather had a chunk out of it with wedding rings. - Fitted OEM mats. Expensive but the rears were missing and I knew how hard wearing the OEM mats can be. I wanted rubber mats but BMW stopped making them in RHD from what I remember. - Engine oil and filter. Should have been first on the list but it's done now. - Replaced key fob housing, sellotape wasn't a great look. - Replaced rear window outer seals. There was a small patch of condensation on the rear window and the rubber was perished. Lower seal had split the soft textured lip that touches the boot. - Recall for battery cable. No major but I seen on the paperwork it had thrown 4530 GB 65154395 Diesel particulate filter - regeneration not possible. Further investigation required! - Fitted passenger side lower mesh blank. - Debadged. It was specced without, someone added ones on but fairly wonky. - Fitted space saver and jack, it wasn't and won't be on runflats. - Replaced main and EGR thermostat. Temps way better. Cleaned the EGR while I was in about there, lots of crud. - Swapped the wiper blades. Had an annoying knock from the top left. I measured them to get sizes for replacements and found the longer one had been fitted on the passenger side. Easy and cheap fix, I like those! - Polished headlights. A good improvement with the autoglym kit but the drivers headlight is letting condensation into the eyebrow area. - Replaced fuel filter. - Fitted powdercoated mirrors. I got a spare set from ebay, split them and had them coated. Had new pins machined to clamp them back together. I was going to do my original set as well to sell on but it's a fair bit of work. - Replaced anti-shudder valve. Had a horrible sound and shake when shutting down, a used one sorted it out. So up to there things were starting to look good, I decided to start playing about with spacers, 15mm on the rear. I then decided to spend too much on another set of wheels I wanted, on trial fitting them the driver side front spring snapped when I jacked it up. I don't have a good pic of the car with them on so I'm holding off posting them until then space saver already came in handy though, I had to move the car and didn't want to catch the arch. It's late now but I'll update with where I'm curently at with her tomorrow.
  7. FLX

    Ford Granada Scorpio Tryke!!

    Had the 'pleasure' of working on custom trikes in the past, it's very rare to see one that's properly built and finished. My advice is give them a wide berth, you don't know what passes for acceptable to amatuer engineers.
  8. FLX

    Brake pipes

    No need to remove the tank, they run up the left of it and have a joiner roughly underneath the rear seat. If you're just doing the rear sections check the condition of them under the front left arch liner as they can be a little rough there. They use DIN mushroom flares, you would probably get it to seal using an SAE bubble flare but I wanted mine to be 100% given that it's the brake lines.
  9. FLX

    MAFless performance

    Have you looked to see if the EGR is covered in crud? Remove the pipe going up into the anti shudder valve and look through. Easy enough to remove and clean. MAF does sound like a culprit though. I wouldn't have thought your injector codes would be related to the glow plugs, mine has glow plug codes and starts a little rough in low temps but clears up after a few seconds and runs fine after. Your #4 cylinder seems to be running a fair bit different to the others, not sure if this is within parameters but possibly worth noting. If you do get to the bottom of things, careful with the remap if you're planning it. Diesels put out a lot more torque than petrols. The motors can take tuning but the clutch, manual gearbox and diff are the concern when you start ramping up the power.
  10. FLX

    Am I crazy?!?

    Yeah I'm not overly in to the 'trade to trade' clause, they are a dealership by the looks of it so should offer some sort of good will along with the sale. Likely a trade-in that they want nothing to do with. Unfortunately - going on my experience - I think early E60's are hitting that age where you will find a lot of things breaking/broken. The parking sensors aren't a huge deal but the on board computer doesn't tell you a whole lot on these, I wouldn't buy another one without scanning the codes through the OBD port. If you're not keen with a set of tools I would steer clear. Looks like a deposit has been taken for the 325. Low mileage is good up to a certain point but in general things will deteriorate over time, such is the nature of this life!
  11. Replaced the clutch pedal bushes. It only had minor play but I bought the bushes and was determined I'd get them done, not an easy job with the pedal box in place. I also got bushes for the brake pedal but could not get it's pin budging at all, made me wonder if it's glued - play isn't much either so I'll just let sleeping dogs lie. Fitted the new bonnet release lever/OBD mount. The latches on the slam panel were sticking, I greased them up once I'd broken the lever opening the bonnet. Replaced the alternator to glow plug relay cable. With the weather warming up my glow plug faults are sliding down the priority list but I'll get round to them soon. Removed the sun bleached purple parcel shelf and gave it a couple of coats of spray dye. I'll see how it looks tomorrow, ran out of the pitiful 150ml spray cans so I'm undecided whether to continue trying to dye it or just get some fabric and recover it.
  12. FLX

    Underbody sealer

    If it's anything like my 530d E60 you may need a rust converter too, I used Dinitrol rc800. I was recommended it by a painter who restores Morris Minors. Hopefully yours will be in better shape than mine was!
  13. This seemed to have slipped by pretty quickly, with the never ending news stream they can brush it aside with little repurcussion. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-56281934 100 of the contracts for PPE not been published.
  14. Changed the front tyres from the run flat Kumho's to Michelin Pilot Sport 4. Had the use of a tyre machine but getting the run flats off was a fair challenge, of course it's by design they did not want to pop off the beads. I can just picture the meeting where this was discussed. 'Well if we don't have to supply a spare wheel space saver and jack with every car we could save this much!' *points at spreadsheet* 'Who cares about handling these days anyway?'
  15. FLX

    Driveshafts anyone used these

    Hopefully won't be too long before things are back to some sort of normality, whatever that may be! I would have a look at the centre support bearing based on what you're saying. You tend to hear them knock when accelerating when the rubber surround fails but this video shows the noise when the bearing itself starts to go, different car but same deal. It would make sense that it's difficult to pinpoint from front to rear as it sits roughly under the armrest, it's also one of the weaker points in the drive train so more prone to giving in than the diff or gearbox for example. It's tucked away under a heat shield above the exhaust so you would need to remove these to replicate the video but it's one of the cheaper part to replace and rule out. Given the age of the car If you're considering replacing it you might as well do the flex disc (giubo) while you have the prop off, it's also made of rubber so it's likely to be showing some signs of wear. If you're doing it yourself mark where the bearing housing sits on the body (a sharpie will do) as you have to preload it a little when refitting, this will help you put it back to where it was. Then before you split the prop shaft mark it with tip-ex at either side of the middle CV joint beside the CSB so it goes back into the same spline, they are balanced in the factory and you need to keep it on the same alignment or you will end up with vibration. I replaced the bolts on the giubo when I did mine, some aftermarket ones come with them as a kit. I didn't replace the bolts going in to the diff, I gave them a small dab of loctite.
  16. FLX

    Driveshafts anyone used these

    Unfortunately I have to limit contact (family member does care work) otherwise I'd be happy to help! At what speeds does it make the noise and roughly where from? Does braking, accelerating, decelerating make any difference or is it constant? There's only so many moving bits so it should be easy to narrow down.
  17. FLX

    PDC Fault Diagnosis (Guide)

    Hi, I had PDC failure on mine that was a blown transistor in the module as Winther described earlier in the thread. It's easy to check, pop the box open and have a look. It brought my PDC back to life though I still have issues with a few of the sensors, been meaning to have another look but not got round to it yet.
  18. FLX

    Driveshafts anyone used these

    They don't seem to get a good review on google, I'd be wary at that price too. They are the same on both sides, though there are differences in diameters between the models. If you're getting used ones just search with the part number as they're the same on the 7 series as well IIRC, you should get more to buy from. Have a good look at the the threads on the ends as they're easily damaged if the nut wasn't properly removed. If you do decide to change them I would recommend doing the wheel bearings while you're in there. I'm fairly local to Inverness so can loan you the tool to pull the driveshaft back through the hub if you're going to DIY it. Even with very clean splines I wrecked a new bearing without it, it's a really tight fit.
  19. Thanks, the photo makes it look a lot better than it actually is though my single bucket wash would probably raise a few eyebrows too, keep forgetting to pick up another one.
  20. FLX

    Clank jolt

    I don't know enough about the auto boxes on these but it does sound like more of a drivetrain clunk - if you've had a code up for it too it does suggest the problem may lie there. I had a quick google out of interest, this thread points to it being a software issue with 2007/2008 cars. Hopefully that might shine some light on the issue.
  21. @Keliuss Thanks, they're the radial/concave Style 32 that was an option on the E6X. I'm a big fan of the 32's in the flat and dished versions as well.
  22. FLX

    Clank jolt

    Is it an auto or manual? If you could us get a short video of the noise, should make it easier to identify.
  23. Also removed my winter wheels and gave it a wash. Need a clay bar, theres a lot of crap on the paint so I didn't get too engrossed. First time I've had these wheels on the car as well, they're pretty rough up close so I'll get a refurb on them next winter. Front tyres are run flats, those will be going ASAP as the handling is not nice.
  24. FLX

    E60 Trims

    Hello again, looking for a quote on these: 51477898821 51477898822 51477898823 51477898824 51439143459 35211158290 (x2) 35306761031 Thanks
  25. FLX

    Glow plug errors

    Temps have been low here so I wanted to look at the glow plug errors. in the morning it takes a few extra revolutions to kick into life, then will be rough for about 3 seconds with a light puff of smoke and then runs fine straight after. If I start it later in the day it has no trouble so it does seem to be a lack of pre-heating. I replaced the glow plug module within the last few months with a Beru item as I had faults for 5 of the glow plugs originally. I had issues with my laptop so didn't get a chance to see if the codes were cleared, it was warmer then so it was still starting OK. I'm now getting errors for the 6 of them. Checked the cable from the alternator>module. No burning visible and was showing ~14.8V at idle, so power is getting up to that point. I took the cable off completely and tried to squeeze the connection terminal at the module end a little closer together but it's pretty flimsy so it could still be the issue. Other than removing the intake and checking the resistance on each glow plug and for continuity through the wiring, is there any other checks to make? The engine will be warm where I'm checking it (I won't be ), what sort of resistance am I looking for?