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FLX

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About FLX

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    E60 530D Manual M-Sport '05

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  1. FLX

    Kit's E34 535i

    It's a nice feeling to have traced a problem down and have a successful test drive confirming it, good that it wasn't anything too involved.
  2. FLX

    M57 inlet manifold (swirl flap upgrade)

    @dj1233 That makes more sense with the price (I should stop staying up late). I think I will probably go for this when I get round to it, saves having to clean mine out and keeps it with flaps. Looks like it may be cheaper on their website but I've not went through the basket to see if there is a shipping charge.
  3. FLX

    Heavy/Stiff steering

    I'd agree with @HandyAndy_UK in checking the column, though I'm more inclined to suspect the upper column in your case. Another place to check for heavy steering could be the top mounts, perhaps an unlikely suspect but if they're getting rough it may be forcing the shock piston to spin instead of spinning the shock assembly freely through the mount.
  4. FLX

    M57 inlet manifold (swirl flap upgrade)

    Any idea what the deal is with it being reinforced? It's a bit scarce on details. Seems cheaper than I expected! Still doing work underneath my car but pulling the intake is the job once it's back on all 4 wheels, I think one of my oil leaks is around that area and I had planned to get rid of the swirl flaps. I have also read about the loss of low end torque on removal which is making me think twice, diesels are all about torque and I don't want to lose out in that regard.
  5. FLX

    Petrol or Diesel ?

    Wait a minute! Nothing goes wrong with old BMWs... /s
  6. Hi Robert, '98 models should be covered with these, check if you have the 20 pin round diagnostic connector under the bonnet. The online manual for the FCX-II I linked to (same as the paper manual I have) will confirm it for you, as well as giving you the full detail of what is is capable of diagnosing. The FCX-II pretty much deals with the engine codes and resetting of oil and inspection indicators. The SRS2 can read and reset any airbag faults, detailing exactly which sensor has triggered an issue.
  7. It's not fun to think about but mother nature will do its best to return these back to where they came from, from the moment they're built they're doomed to it. All we can do is accept it, repair and replace as the years roll on. Sure you could trade it in for a newer model but shit happens, the same would happen to it given enough time. You've just got to enjoy it in the moment
  8. Peake Research FCX-2 and SRS2 diagnostic tools with original paper manuals and storage boxes. I used to use them on my old '99 E46 for keeping on top of things. To suit 20 pin round plug under bonnet plug models (1987 Through 2000). Can be used on later models with an adapter but it's not included, you might have trouble tracking one down nowadays as Peake are no longer on the go. This is an online Manual for the FCX-II which details the models covered and what you can diagnose with it. The SRS manual can't be found online but deals with the airbag side of things, handy if you have disturbed them or have a problem needing traced. Thought I would see if there was any interest here before putting them up on ebay.
  9. FLX

    Rear Wheels Locked Up

    20200920_135356[1].mp4 Funnily enough I was thinking about the prop earlier, it dawned on me that if it's a CV at the diff end there will be a bit of axial play! That's my prop waiting on refitting. Every day is school day, I didn't know about the different diameter crownwheels. All my yapping about the prop was for nothing then Good thing is it'll get the car back on the road for now but I'd take it easy. I think the larger crown wheel would still be preferable, it's larger so more robust. I think they still use the same driveshafts so you would just need a 535d diff again, assuming the prop is the same diameter the CV should take up the difference in length. Get them to check your rear brake hard lines, access is easy with the subframe out of the road. Your car is newer than mine so shouldn't be bad, mine was a wee tad rusty around there! I had looked into LSDs, I think if I was going to fork out I'd go for a Wavetrac. If the Quaife ATB loses traction on one wheel it acts like an open diff, no use for the rain and occasional snow we get. The wavetrac design is better with the ramp, the spinning wheel (zero load) torque is transferred to the wheel with traction, so you keep going. Plated diffs require maintenance, I much prefer the idea of fit and forget aside from oil changes.
  10. FLX

    '05 E60 530d Manual - Underside refresh

    So I managed to get hold of the flaring tool on monday but found a slight difference between the flares I was getting and the old flares on the car. The tool was for making SAE bubble flares and the original flares are DIN mushroom flares, note the angles on the back of them where the tube nuts push them into place : I was assured by a few guys and automec that the SAE flaring tool and stainless SAE fittings I had would be fine sealing into the DIN fittings - I can see their logic in it, I'm using kunifer brake line so it's soft enough to squish into shape. My concern was using the original DIN fittings that would be present on the ABS pump (front right short brake line) and the joining pieces, the flat face of the DIN nut pushing into the back of an angled SAE flare. I found another supplier of stainless tube nuts which was a little difficult, hopefully they are DIN this time around, I will reuse the original ends if not. I also have a DIN flaring tool on the way for peace of mind. The shifter is back in place with new front oval bushes and the ball outer. I wasn't too happy at first due to it sticking on the far right, then I noticed one of the ball outer tabs hadn't quite seated in the mounting. Could have renewed the other bushes as well but these were the ones that showed wear, it wasn't too bad before but I thought why not tighten it up a bit while access is easy. Feels a bit nicer now. You may have noticed the patch of corrosion on the nut at the top, it's from the shield pictured earlier in the thread. I had planned to use penny washers but the material was weak near the hole. # I looked to see if there were any cheap replacements but they showed similar or worse corrosion. I didn't fancy shelling out for a new one so I cut a bit of alloy and shaped it close to the corroded part then pop riveted it on. The back box heat shield also had the same issue, used ones in similar conditon. After a bit of pratting around with more alloy and a quick wash it's good to go. I've got the back bumper supports refitted and a diagnostic cable from Cable-Shack, I'll mount the rear bumper loosely and try to find where the parking sensors are giving problems. Probably have to fight my way through the fault codes, I switched the ignition on after refitting the battery and tank, the CCC went mad with the rear lights disconnected, ABS sensors, brake fluid, tyre pressures etc The diagnostics should come in handy for recoding the battery and bleeding the ABS pump too. I'd like to correct the speedo as well, hated it displaying a higher speed. Also been cleaning and painting all the bolts and fittings I've had off, bit of a task. They're going to chip on refitting but it's better than leaving them to rust and I can't justify spending hundreds on replacing them.
  11. FLX

    Rear Wheels Locked Up

    It could be that the flange into the diff has a slight difference hence the need for a change in length of the prop, if you could compare the measurements from the front subframe mounts to the flange face on the diff that may be where the difference came from, a steel rule across the flange face and another down to the subframe mount should confirm it. You've probably seen theres no listing for the internals of the diff. They both appear to use the same auto box, gearbox mount and we know the subframes are the same. It could just be overthinking it, I very much doubt they made the whole car 2mm shorter for the facelift! As I said they appeared to revise the rear cover of the diff on the facelifts so they may have slightly different internals. It could be that there is a slight difference in diameters of the prop between the 530 and 535 so it's also worth checking, though it is length we're focusing on. I'd ask for a look at the old prop to see where it was damaged, if it's the CV at the diff you could maybe just swap the 530d one onto it, same part numbers but the prop may be damaged there. The flex disc has protrusions that fit into the counterbores on the driveshaft and gearbox. It's listing the 530d prop longer so you could face off and counterbore deeper to get the right length, but you'd lose strength there. That or have the prop tube shortened and rebalanced - could be more expensive than sourcing another 535d prop. Another option would be - depending on how much of the old 535d prop is useable - to measure it and find where the difference in length is compared to the 530d prop. Getting an accurate measurement at that length (depending on the tools available to you) might prove difficult, but you could use the shorter section of your old prop and the new one to get back to the right length. This would also require balancing it. As I say I would check the measurements on the diff, if those are the same I'd fit the new 530d prop and see how you get on. If it looks like it's deflecting the flex disc forward you might need to consider other options then.
  12. FLX

    Rear Wheels Locked Up

    Flex disc should take up that difference but it could cause it to fail early. Measure the flange on both the diffs to see they are the same, if they are it must be the gearbox that's slightly longer on the 535d. If the old prop was salvageable I'd be inclined to use it. I think the change in ratio means it will lose a bit of torque and gain a bit of top speed, the ratio is on a sticker on top of the diff. Could be worth a try, not a huge job to swap it out if the change is too noticeable.
  13. FLX

    Rear Wheels Locked Up

    At least you know what's up with it now! Shouldn't matter if it's a pre LCI or LCI, much of the parts are interchangable early to late on the E60. E61 uses different hubs due to airbags. Driveshafts, props and diffs vary in diameters and ratio between auto, manual the engine fitted, do a good bit of comparing part numbers before taking the plunge on one. The diff rear covers on LCIs don't seem to have the cooling fins either but they use the same subframes so can't see it being a big issue.
  14. I use Bosch Superfit, I think ceratec is along the same lines. Have used red rubber grease in the past without issue as well.
  15. FLX

    Coilovers

    Damn! Hopefully my set last a while, I'd seen BCs are popular with the drift crowds but I wasn't swayed at the time. My experience with coilies has been if you're not great at avoiding potholes (an ever increasing challenge on UK roads), you're going to have a bad time. Harsher ride than standard but better in corners. Generally a bit more messing about getting it in the air, driving onto planks to get clearance before you can get a jack underneath. Too low and it can be an issue with most garages, their ramps and tracking equipment not being suitable.
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