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FLX

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FLX last won the day on February 4

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About FLX

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    E60 530D Manual M-Sport '05

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  1. FLX

    Wheel spacers

    Same as dirtydirtydiesel, I run 12mm up front on the same sizes without issue. Could be that the 15mm spacer is a touch too much. There is a difference in offsets between E60 and E46/Z4 MV2s but I'm guessing your summer wheels are the E60 MV2s as they sit closer to the arch. Maybe worth checking the spring in that corner.
  2. The rubber on my vents were knackered on my non sunroof E60, though it was only the battery side that collected water. Could be worth a check.
  3. FLX

    Choices.....

    Maybe my E60 is a bad example but the rust at both sides of the fuel tank and above the rear subframe are some early signs I would say. Body and wheel arches are in good shape though.
  4. FLX

    Ford Granada Scorpio Tryke!!

    I've long ago given up faith in ebay bidding, too easy for shilling to drive up prices. Looks like theres only 5 bidders going at it anyhow, don't know who would actually want to spend that sort of money on something so gaudy though. Those front shock mounts are worrying. Since 2006 it's only done 1,573 miles according to the DVLA, must be great fun to drive! /s
  5. FLX

    '05 E60 530d Manual - Underside refresh

    Got a bit lazy with the updates, passed the MOT back in december and been going good since then. Happy with the ride comfort, thought it might have been harsher though it's hard to say with going so long between driving it standard and now. Could go lower but I can't really be bothered with rubbing arches and scraping over speedbumps. Since the last update it's also had: - Auxilliary belt kit and water pump - Strip on the bottom inside of the front bumper for the undertray, didn't notice it was missing - Attempted repair on the parking sensors, had a blown transistor on the module but not investigated further - AUX port fitted inside of armrest and coded in - Clutch pedal bushes and rubber stop - Bonnet release/OBD port mount, broke this due to the bonnet catches seizing up - greased them up - Glow plug module and Alternator>Module cable - Still have glow plug codes so will replace the plugs at some point - Painted the parcel shelf black - was bleached purple with the sun - Alignment Swapped over to the staggered radial/concave style 32s, replaced the run flats on the front with Michelin PS4s. I've also used a clay bar on the paint, there was a lot of crap stuck to it. Nice and smooth now, just don't look too closely... it's still got plenty of scratches, swirl marks and stone chips Overall I'm very happy with how it's turned out, there are still improvements to be made but I'm liking it as it stands. Thanks for reading if you got this far!
  6. FLX

    Ford Granada Scorpio Tryke!!

    Had the 'pleasure' of working on custom trikes in the past, it's very rare to see one that's properly built and finished. My advice is give them a wide berth, you don't know what passes for acceptable to amatuer engineers.
  7. FLX

    Brake pipes

    No need to remove the tank, they run up the left of it and have a joiner roughly underneath the rear seat. If you're just doing the rear sections check the condition of them under the front left arch liner as they can be a little rough there. They use DIN mushroom flares, you would probably get it to seal using an SAE bubble flare but I wanted mine to be 100% given that it's the brake lines.
  8. FLX

    MAFless performance

    Have you looked to see if the EGR is covered in crud? Remove the pipe going up into the anti shudder valve and look through. Easy enough to remove and clean. MAF does sound like a culprit though. I wouldn't have thought your injector codes would be related to the glow plugs, mine has glow plug codes and starts a little rough in low temps but clears up after a few seconds and runs fine after. Your #4 cylinder seems to be running a fair bit different to the others, not sure if this is within parameters but possibly worth noting. If you do get to the bottom of things, careful with the remap if you're planning it. Diesels put out a lot more torque than petrols. The motors can take tuning but the clutch, manual gearbox and diff are the concern when you start ramping up the power.
  9. FLX

    Am I crazy?!?

    Yeah I'm not overly in to the 'trade to trade' clause, they are a dealership by the looks of it so should offer some sort of good will along with the sale. Likely a trade-in that they want nothing to do with. Unfortunately - going on my experience - I think early E60's are hitting that age where you will find a lot of things breaking/broken. The parking sensors aren't a huge deal but the on board computer doesn't tell you a whole lot on these, I wouldn't buy another one without scanning the codes through the OBD port. If you're not keen with a set of tools I would steer clear. Looks like a deposit has been taken for the 325. Low mileage is good up to a certain point but in general things will deteriorate over time, such is the nature of this life!
  10. Replaced the clutch pedal bushes. It only had minor play but I bought the bushes and was determined I'd get them done, not an easy job with the pedal box in place. I also got bushes for the brake pedal but could not get it's pin budging at all, made me wonder if it's glued - play isn't much either so I'll just let sleeping dogs lie. Fitted the new bonnet release lever/OBD mount. The latches on the slam panel were sticking, I greased them up once I'd broken the lever opening the bonnet. Replaced the alternator to glow plug relay cable. With the weather warming up my glow plug faults are sliding down the priority list but I'll get round to them soon. Removed the sun bleached purple parcel shelf and gave it a couple of coats of spray dye. I'll see how it looks tomorrow, ran out of the pitiful 150ml spray cans so I'm undecided whether to continue trying to dye it or just get some fabric and recover it.
  11. FLX

    Underbody sealer

    If it's anything like my 530d E60 you may need a rust converter too, I used Dinitrol rc800. I was recommended it by a painter who restores Morris Minors. Hopefully yours will be in better shape than mine was!
  12. This seemed to have slipped by pretty quickly, with the never ending news stream they can brush it aside with little repurcussion. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-56281934 100 of the contracts for PPE not been published.
  13. Changed the front tyres from the run flat Kumho's to Michelin Pilot Sport 4. Had the use of a tyre machine but getting the run flats off was a fair challenge, of course it's by design they did not want to pop off the beads. I can just picture the meeting where this was discussed. 'Well if we don't have to supply a spare wheel space saver and jack with every car we could save this much!' *points at spreadsheet* 'Who cares about handling these days anyway?'
  14. FLX

    Driveshafts anyone used these

    Hopefully won't be too long before things are back to some sort of normality, whatever that may be! I would have a look at the centre support bearing based on what you're saying. You tend to hear them knock when accelerating when the rubber surround fails but this video shows the noise when the bearing itself starts to go, different car but same deal. It would make sense that it's difficult to pinpoint from front to rear as it sits roughly under the armrest, it's also one of the weaker points in the drive train so more prone to giving in than the diff or gearbox for example. It's tucked away under a heat shield above the exhaust so you would need to remove these to replicate the video but it's one of the cheaper part to replace and rule out. Given the age of the car If you're considering replacing it you might as well do the flex disc (giubo) while you have the prop off, it's also made of rubber so it's likely to be showing some signs of wear. If you're doing it yourself mark where the bearing housing sits on the body (a sharpie will do) as you have to preload it a little when refitting, this will help you put it back to where it was. Then before you split the prop shaft mark it with tip-ex at either side of the middle CV joint beside the CSB so it goes back into the same spline, they are balanced in the factory and you need to keep it on the same alignment or you will end up with vibration. I replaced the bolts on the giubo when I did mine, some aftermarket ones come with them as a kit. I didn't replace the bolts going in to the diff, I gave them a small dab of loctite.
  15. FLX

    Driveshafts anyone used these

    Unfortunately I have to limit contact (family member does care work) otherwise I'd be happy to help! At what speeds does it make the noise and roughly where from? Does braking, accelerating, decelerating make any difference or is it constant? There's only so many moving bits so it should be easy to narrow down.
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