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About FLX

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    E60 530D Manual M-Sport '05

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  1. FLX

    '05 E60 530d Manual - Underside refresh

    Been busy lately, didn't get a lot of pics hence the lack of updates. Head gasket went on my bike so that has slowed progess a bit, I'm almost there with this though. Pretty much all thats left is fit the front suspension, bleed the brakes, tighten the suspension arms all round and it's ready to roll. What I've got done: - Sump gasket replaced, cleaned the subframe while it was off - Turbo rebuilt with exhaust manifold gaskets and charge pipe O-rings replaced - Cam cover gasket replaced - 2 Injectors replaced - failed leak test - Oil filter housing and heat exchanger gaskets replaced - PMG Technik Manifold fitted - Cleaned windscreen washer pump filter, nozzles and lines - Refitted prop, arch liners, undertrays, heat shields and exhaust - Resealed rear passenger door vapour barrier This is the swirl flaps in the PMG technik manifold - a bit chunkier than standard.
  2. Turbo to pipe connection is held on with a flange, remove the top bolt and it will turn to slip it off the bottom stud. I find Gunk is a great degreaser, brake cleaner is good but dries a bit too quickly on heavy crud.
  3. FLX

    Differences - LCI 525d vs 530d

    Best bet would be to check parts between models on RealOEM, wonder if they have different cams? I'm on mobile just now otherwise I'd look out of curiosity!
  4. FLX

    Battery Safety cable issue

    Battery would be my first guess, the colder weather coming in kills older ones. Has it had the recall done on the battery cable? Not sure about the wooshing noise, boost leak maybe? The knocking could be a few things, driveshafts, centre support bearing etc - need a bit more info to ponder it.
  5. FLX

    PDC Fault Codes - Where to start?

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191844128154 I saved this seller after searching on here for recommendations, I've not got round to sorting mine out yet but this is who I planned to use. You'll need to search and see if they supply them in titan silver, hope that helps.
  6. FLX

    Found this under the car :(

    Depends which one it is, on the E60 theres 3 (possibly 4) of these clips from under the rear passenger side door (RHD), then beside the fuel tank and above the subframe. The front one should be covered by the undertray, I'd remove the rear wheel for a better look to see which one it is. The nut holds the main clip up to the body so you do want to replace it than have it vibrating around.
  7. Theres a tolerance of 10mm height difference as standard. I know E46's are also known to sit a bit lopsided. Could be one of the springs with a small broken section or one starting to sag more than the other. I'd check the brakes too, though in my head it would be the drivers side causing it to steer right. Picturing how tanks turn, turning right would slow/stop the right track allowing the left to push it through the turn.
  8. FLX

    Blue smoke dpf regen

    I think it's adding excess diesel in to help raise the exhaust temp to burn off the soot, as there's nothing there it won't have any feedback within the normal parameters of what it's expecting. Get it mapped out as iReaper says.
  9. FLX

    The E39 range is 25 years old.

    With the added complexity of the later models (basing this on my E60) I can't see many of them making it to 25 in reasonable condition. Not built to last so you go and trade it in for a new one on tick. Replace instead of repair etc. I'd hold on to that 528i if I were you!
  10. FLX

    E60 Various gaskets etc

    Hi, could I get a price on the following with a breakdown please? Gasket Steel............... 11137798122 O-ring.......................... 11437794698 Profile Gasket............. 11127796378 Profile Gasket............. 11427788455 Profile Gasket............. 11427788463 O-ring........................... 11427788458 O-ring........................... 11427788459 Gasket Asbestos Free 11657796787 Gasket Ring................ 18307793678 Gasket Steel............... 11627798177 (x3) Hex bolt...................... 07149126885 (x13) C-clip nut D=18MM.... 07146949379 (x5) C-clip nut D=30MM.... 07146949380 (x5) O-ring.......................... 11421702905 (x2) Thanks again
  11. FLX

    '05 E60 530d Manual - Underside refresh

    Got the rear subframe back up with a bit of shuffling, blocks of wood and a pair of jacks. Rear Coilovers in, diff refilled, backplates and rear brakes fitted with hoses and handbrake adjusted up , driveshaft nuts tightened and the back end back down on wheels. I maybe should have painted the back plates black but they'll be dirty soon enough and the discs will wear through the coating! If you've ever wondered what an E60 looks like with the centre console out (probably not?). I had already engaged the handbrake again and knew how much of a PITA it is to get the 'service lock' (allows the lever to be lifted up fully) back in place so I moved the drivers seat back and fully reclined to get the centre console over the lever and remounted it all. Back to the front end. Removed the intake to get a look at the swirl flaps, not in too bad condition but leaking all over the place. I was strongly leaning towards getting rid of them but decided on an updated manifold from PMG Technik. Looking up the block from the drivers side there was signs of oil too, I know the cam cover can be known to leak so set about removing it. The injectors popped out with relative ease using a borrowed puller (thank f*ck) - I did notice the rear bolt on the high pressure rail was not screwed home fully so it looks like someone has been poking around here at some point. I was surprised at how clean the top end is for 130k, cams smooth and very little build up of crud. I tried removing the DPF from the bottom but it's very tight, I know I've yet to remove the subframe to do the sump which would have had it out. Removed the exhaust manifold and lifted the DPF from above followed by the turbo. I would love to throw a hybrid in there but then I'd need the injectors, fuel pump, intercooler and exhaust to justify it.. maybe an LSD too. With everything so up in the air at the moment I'm going to stick with simplicity and just get the old turbo checked over, hopefully won't need much.
  12. FLX

    Alloy Wheels

    I despise them so much. Anything wide and tall can just fly across them, same goes for bikes zipping through them. Just seem like a poorly thought out idea that should never have made it to the streets. Then you've got the ones that don't slow anything down and the others that are like mountains. @Numero9 Smaller widths usually aren't a concern, you'll lose a small bit of grip if you were pushing on in high speed cornering but you'll not be doing much of that in winter. Skinnier wheels are better for grip in snow and ice as theres less of a contact patch, less chance of spinning with the same weight on a smaller area.
  13. FLX

    Alloy Wheels

    I think it's the insides that are more prone to cracks and buckles. Aside from the millions of potholes you want to watch out for these moronic speed humps. They push the wheels apart at the inside edges which really doesn't help on low profile tyres.
  14. Sounds like a decent alternative @RandomName. I did have a bit of trouble freeing off the arms from the subframe on mine but she is/was a bit of a rusty old gal, despite what the bodywork on top showed. Alignment would still be worth getting checked afterwards but your way may be a less intrusive method, the front arms don't have eccentric adjusters like the rear. I remember changing the front bearings on my e46. Wheel off, brakes off, nut off and chap off the old bearing, new one on, tighten and refit. Complexity can be difficult, at least it's not something you have to be doing every month or so! (*whispering f*cking e60...* ) If you ever have the rear bearings (m27x1.5) to do I could rent out the tool for pulling the driveshafts back into the hubs. I wrecked a bearing trying to chap a clean driveshaft into a clean hub, I thought it would go fine but it didn't. With the tool I'm confident in it's replacement, it slid into place without any big shocks to the bearing. At least the front bearings are an easier job!
  15. I think the days of car phones have been and gone unfortunately, the new arm rest looks good though. As for the rain, be glad your car is a good colour for hiding muck Glad that puncture ended well! Could have been worse. I'm a tiny bit bugged at your tyre fitter for not lining up the yellow dot with the valve but it's a very, very minor grievance. The lighest part of the tyre is marked with the dot, to be lined up with the valve - which is usually heavier - so less weights can be used in correcting the balance. Given the precision in modern manufacturing (Bridgestone is Japanese so a fairly high bar) it's likely not a huge difference either way. As for the kink in the arch, short of lending an arch roller I used to see large tubes being deployed to roll the arches when I used to mess about with (excessively) lowered VW's. I wouldn't worry too much about it as it's not too noticeable, check the back of it for cracks in the underseal as you don't want moisture getting in there.