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Munzy123

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Munzy123 last won the day on August 25

Munzy123 had the most liked content!

About Munzy123

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    Newbie

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    Scotland

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  • Garage
    Space Grey 530d F11

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  1. Munzy123

    Foxwell NT530

    If you do your own maintenance and plan on keeping the car for a while (as I do) then this will pay for itself after one or two jobs/code reads. It is very convenient to use, to keep in the car and draws its power from the OBD socket. Bought one in August and have used it to read/clear codes and empty air from air springs. I will be using it for a rear brake change and hoping it can read gearbox temps for a filter and oil change. There is not much documentation out there specifically for using with the F10/11 and the names of the menus are not always easy to link to their function. This has me a bit wary of poking around but hopefully as more people buy them and share their experiences we will build up our knowledge.
  2. Munzy123

    Changed f10 530D gearbox oil

    Thanks for all the info @sams255 I was worried about needing the wheels off the ground to run through the gears but now that I see they just need selected with foot on the brake I'm going to try and get a ramp booked and go for it. I have the Foxwell NT530 which I think can monitor the gearbox temps. Only thing I want to check is that the ZF filter and oil in the link are definitely original ZF parts as I have read on a few forums there are copies out there, is there a way of checking?
  3. Munzy123

    Changed f10 530D gearbox oil

    My sentiments exactly!
  4. Munzy123

    Rear Diff fluid oil change video

    I think the diff oil is the old "Lifetime doesn't need changed" from BMW, so there is no interval but my car was on 100k when I did it. A new diff washer was about £3 from my local dealer so worth getting one for piece of mind but would think re using the old one would be fine as long a the seal is not damaged. Diff Plug: 33117525064 https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=MX52-EUR-12-2010-F11-BMW-530d&mg=33&sg=10&diagId=33_1468&q=33117525064
  5. Munzy123

    Rear Diff fluid oil change video

    It is extremely easy with 2 caveats.... As always access/getting the car up in the air and level is the hardest part. I managed to hire a ramp and it was incredibly straight forward. With there being no drain hole you have to suck the old oil out. I used a £10 electric oil pump from eBay - worked a treat. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-60W-Electric-Fluid-Extractor-Oil-Diesel-Transfer-Pump-Siphon-Car-Motorbike/132439466537?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Oh and used diff oil absolutely stinks! Sulfur/rotten eggs type smell and will stink your clothes and washing machine out so try and avoid it. Used one bottle of this this on my E91 320d M47 and my F11 530D N57: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-737-castrol-syntrax-longlife-75w-90-fully-synthetic-car-gearbox-oil-formerly-saf-xo.aspx
  6. Good wheels are going back on tomorrow.... Life is too short not to have my car looking it's best. I spent 3 years wishing I had a better wheels on my last car and I'm not prepared to spend 5 months of the year not having my dream car spec'd the way I bought it. They need a refurb anyway so will give me more reason to do it in the spring
  7. Munzy123

    Wheel refurb options

    @nick_mcuk proper pro looking!
  8. Munzy123

    Wheel refurb options

    @nick_mcuk that's a great result on your DIY wheels, bet that was satisfying. I'll give Lepsons a shout later in the week.
  9. Munzy123

    Wheel refurb options

    Cheers @percha Do you have any photos of them on the car? Is your F11 Space Grey? Only thing is if I find any problem with the work afterwards it's a bit far away....
  10. Munzy123

    Wheel refurb options

    Cheers @nick_mcuk Those look awesome (the close up photos look flawless!) and the Lepsons website makes for great, reassuring reading especially the details of their process. They mention powdered lacquer for a more durable finish The prices are good as well considering the amount of work that goes in. Only problem is they are in Kent (I'm Glasgow) - would just depend on how they need them packaged up at my end for pick up. I'm going to get some more photos of my wheels and send them an email
  11. Munzy123

    Wheel refurb options

    Whilst I have my good wheels off the car I'll be looking to get them refurbished and would appreciate any advice. They are in pretty go condition in that they have no damage, buckles, welds etc but they do have plenty of curb-rash on all 4 (think the previous owner rotated front and rears) To get them done 'properly' should I look for: - tyres off? - valves removed? - any stuck on balance weights removed? - chemically stripped? - curb rash machined/ground? - any particular paint process for a quality finish? - lacquered to protect? - balanced or anything else? @535i Andrew I think you had mentioned previously;y about getting wheels powder coated, is this different from the factory finish? (I'll make sure the finish goes behind the wheel too as the spokes are quite thin ) I'm sticking with the original colour as it ties in with the grill and roof rails. I do like the slightly grayer anthracite kind of colored wheels but worry that they will be too similar to the body of the car (A52 Space Grey) I have looked at Dust Powered and Paint on FB and like the look of their work and videos and they have an offer just now below.
  12. The only reason (as always) = money lol! To be honest originally I had just intended running what I had all year round as I have done for the last 26 years, admittedly only the last 2 in a BMW . If it snows the car will be staying put and I’ll walk/bus to work. I came across the 236 with the tyres on them for a great price and took them - I don’t expect them to be any good in proper snow but: - the higher profile and non run flat means my I’m less susceptible to winter pot holes, I’m worried about cracking or damaging the 351s with low profile run flats over the dark/wet/icy Scottish winter. - when I get my 351s refurbed I intend to try and keep them good next year by substituting them in the winter and this lets me see how that goes. - plus I enjoy buying bits for my cars and trying them out also helps me build up real world knowledge for the future and contributing to forums.
  13. @nick_mcuk I've always considered Landsail as mid range tyres? They're not the lowest of the low cheapo shonky random brand tyres in my opinion. Pair of Landsail fronts came on my old 320d and were ABSOLUTELY FINE the 1 1/2 years I ran them. I do appreciate they won't be as good a quality as the big brands that will shod my "good" wheels but they need to be fit for purpose (braking, safety etc) and I believe that even mid range tyres are fine as long as you're not 'looning about on them, which I won't be
  14. Put on the "winter wheels" (non winter tyres though ). Went from 351 19" with Goodyear Excellence run flats (about 5mm on rears and 7/8mm fronts) to 236 17" Landsail S388 XL non run flats (new rears and 7mm fronts). All tyres inflated to the full load car spec on the door sill. No real difference when on unbroken tarmac (car has VDC and Dymanic Drive (big bills one day...!) and rides lovely on the 351s) but the big difference is when going over joins, cats eyes, pot-holes, broken tarmac etc - much less of a physical thud/thump and shudder. Although when in 'Comfort' mode the car feels like it's driving on marshmallow roads - super comfy but very wallowy when the road undulates. Not sure about grip and cornering as to be honest the car scares me when pushing on even slightly in the winter... I'm in it for the comfort and 'wafting Although the 236 tyres are not winter specific they are pretty much new and I noticed a huge difference in the snow when I got new tyres for my 320d after having borderline tread on the ones before. Overall quite happy except the looks, the 236 don't look bad it's just the car does not look as special now... however I'll get the 351s completely refurbed in the spring and look forward to that!
  15. Munzy123

    Buying used F11. Where to start?

    Adaptive Drive (adjustable anti-roll/sway bars) are easy to check for as well, although you will have to get down on your knees The black cylinder highlighted in the photo is an Adaptive Drive one, this is the part of the car affecting/controlling body roll. The photo shows the rear looking from the drivers side, located under the boot/trunk area.
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