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Munzy123 last won the day on June 18

Munzy123 had the most liked content!

About Munzy123

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    Space Grey 530d F11

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  1. Munzy123

    Brake bleed results?

    Thanks guys, reassuring to hear others have felt no real difference at the pedal after a bleed, disappointed it still feels soft but will do.
  2. Munzy123

    Brake bleed results?

    I took my F11 to a main BMW dealer to have the brakes bled as it was only £87 and I don’t currently have anywhere to do it myself. My question is- should the pedal feel different/firmer after the bleed as it feels exactly the same as before it was done, namely a bit spongy with more travel than I’d like?
  3. I was mucking about with INPA (I think) on my old e90 and managed to have the car doing the same - cranking freely but just not firing. Turned out I had managed to unmarry the key fob from the immobiliser. Reset it and all was good. Got a fright though
  4. Munzy123

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    This will be the method I use next time. I’ve done both - cover off the compressor to deflate but it takes a while and then using ISTA/Foxwell but sometimes it does not deflate enough with 2 runs. Reckon as long as I’m careful by making a small hole first the screwdriver/Stanley knife will save a whole load of time.
  5. Munzy123

    530D N57 ticking noise on shutdown

    Throttle Valve replaced with a new one. £182 from eBay. I like to try and use BMW parts but at over £450 I decided against it and was pleasantly surprised when the part arrived in a nice Continental branded box. Not sure if they are OEM but have always like their car and bicycle tyres! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-GENUINE-VDO-A2C59514305-THROTTLE-BODY-WHOLESALE-PRICE-SALE-/153125024819?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Taking the old one apart confirmed exactly the same problem as @Greenfingers reported, namely stripped gears. Lots of soot build up on the small white gear may have contributed to poor meshing on what is a sealed unit - oil and crud will always find a way! Car is a N57 on 125,342 miles, had a look up inside the air intake with the throttle off and it’s pretty coked up with soot/deposits. I’d love to do the job @Matthew Ashton did and clean it but not sure I’m committed enough to do the job myself. May get it into a local specialist for a walnut blast while it’s off to be cleaned. Anyway huge thanks to the guys above and the forum for helping diagnose and fix the problem saving hundreds of £££
  6. Munzy123

    Throttle actuator gone bad

    Hi @Greenfingers I’ve got the same issue now, have your replacement gear parts arrived yet? I’ve found a new VDO throttle body for £190 but like the idea of cleaning my current one and upgrading to the metal gears.
  7. Munzy123

    530D N57 ticking noise on shutdown

    Throttle Valve indeed! Thanks again @percha and @Greenfingers I’ve had the throttle valve body off before when doing my glow plug controller. The only tricky part was the third bolt underneath but hopefully a simple in and out job. Will get a new rubber seal too. (swirl flap code has been before, will clear it)
  8. Munzy123

    530D N57 ticking noise on shutdown

    Thanks @percha! That’s very helpful and I’ll go down the throttle body route and report back!
  9. Hope everyone is well, been a while! Developed a ticking noise on shutdown of the engine. Sometimes get a metallic click as the car cools down after a drive bit this is much louder and definitely a new noise. It happens after a drive or even in the morning if I start the car and shut it down straight away (as in video) so nothing is getting hot enough to need to cool down. I’ve had a quick Google and seem some mentions of a gear actuator - a small plastic gear that can shed some teeth - sounds very much like a plastic gear/cog that’s skipping but can anyone shed a more definite light please? I’ll plug the Foxwell in later on to look for codes but nothing has come up on the dash or settings warning (yet!).
  10. Munzy123

    Which leather cleaner?

    The standard leather in our F10\11s is a relatively low grade with protective coating over top. This means that you only need to wipe it clean with a damp cloth or mild detergent. There is no need, or affect to condition, to treat or nourish as you would with higher grade leathers or the super soft stuff proper leather seats used to be in nice big cars or higher grade upgrades. Can be nice to have the smell of the cleaners though Good read on the Dr Leather website: The Myth of Conditioners...As a consequence, the way to clean and maintain your leather has also changed. The old style regime of ‘clean and feed your leather’ is outdated. The cleaning is still very important, but the feeding is now a bit of a myth, because these so called ‘conditioners’ cannot get into the leather any longer due to the tough coating systems used. Typically, conditioners are based on natural ingredients such as beeswax, lanolin, etc. and their chemical make-up cannot truly penetrate into modern leathers through the coatings. Most applications say to apply the conditioner, leave for a period of time and then wipe off any excess. This shows a real issue in that the conditioner, if wiped off will appear to be gone, but actually it will still be there on the surface to some degree, and in the ‘valleys’ between the grain pattern, and will actually pick up dirt and soiling more quickly. Which then forces you to clean the leather sooner, and then recondition, ultimately creating the ‘quick-soiling’ scenario all over again. Also other brands say their conditioners are required for maintaining softness, but the moisture content of the leather is the most critical aspect, and that is controlled through the humectants and special fatliquors used in modern leather manufacture.
  11. Munzy123

    Air Con

    On all year round - rubber seals in the system can apparently dry out if the system is off for too long.
  12. Munzy123

    Belt Drive-Vibration Damper..... :(

    @Cadwell Parker ooofft indeed mate - nasty wee surprise hole in the bank account Got it done at MTek in Glasgow and had a conversation with the guy - cheap ones, about £160+, can sometimes only last a year so went with the better spec (unsure brand they ended up getting) and I needed the car back quickly so BMW part not an option. Saying that I have learned over the years that many of the better brands are what BMW use at the factory (Beru, Mahle, Febi etc) so hopefully the better spec option will do another 100k. Car is Jan 2011 Actually I am wondering if an occasional rub with some Gummy Fledge as it gets older might prolong the rubber's life?
  13. Munzy123

    Belt Drive-Vibration Damper..... :(

    I think it’s the orignal BMW one. Haven’t driven it much since I got it back so hard to tell if it has made any difference to the start or stopping of the engine. Will report back later.
  14. Munzy123

    Belt Drive-Vibration Damper..... :(

    Fixed, £500 later (new vibration damper and belt) Pics of the old one showing how rubber had failed. I would have attempted it myself but TIS shows a specialist tool required to hold the crankshaft whilst undoing and fitting the bolts and was only an hours labour to get done properly. Engine is N57 with 118000 miles.