Irish535d

Well done. Sounds like a lot of work. How did you unblock the drains on either side of the engine bay and below the master cylinder? I've noticed 2 cabin filters on the top of the scuttle on mine when cleaning out leaves around that area - took of the covers - and yes need new filters! -cleaned below them and noticed the side exit hole to take water down between the inner and outer wing (I presume). Do I need to take off that plastic scuttle panel under the cabin filters to inspect further to look for this bung that can cause interior leaks everyone is talking about. Mine is dry stored and never goes out in the rain - currently laid up for the autumn/ winter. The plastic scuttle panels seem held in with plastic bolts. And it was too cold in the storage unit to go inspecting further without knowing I'm on the right track! Thanks Nick

Hi Guys, I need a new lower right front ball joint - according to the MoT man (well NCT here in Ireland - National Car Test - but the same thing). And on investigating it seems the ball joint is part of the control arm. I posted in an ongoing thread below last night which I thought relevant - but maybe no one saw it? I'm not in any major hurry but thought I'd start a new thread for visibility. My questions are: Should I do both sides - if one is gone, is the other one following? The NCT man said no, it's OK but I normally replace suspension and brake stuff in pairs and whilst I'm under there ..... I see there is a control arm and a tension arm. The NCT man didn't say which ball joint was going. I'll try and get under the car with a jack and a pry bar to see which is gone but I didn't feel any odd steering/ driving issues at all. In fact car drives great! And no noises. Maybe I'll go back up there and ask. Is it a good idea to replace both the tension arm and the control arm? And of course that means both sides potentially - so 4 arms... I may as well do an oil change whilst I'm in there !! Finally, where to get them from. I want decent arms, not something that will fail in 2-3 year's time again. So am I only looking at Lemforder? I see a couple of offerings on ebay from the UK and from Germany. Item 164261610567 from a.parts in Germany, item 143684761821 from Professional Parts in Germany, and a whole set from bnc market in Bedford. Item 264032164853. I couldn't see anything on c3bmw.co.uk's website. Thanks in advance. Nick

Hi Sorry to hijack this thread but it seemed an old (but good!) one. My 2006 535d MSport has just failed the NCT (MoT equivalent here in Ireland) on the front right lower ball joint. I reading up this thread I see there is 2 of them each side! - the 'tension arm' and the 'control arm' - and of course no separate ball joint in each. Can anyone tell me offhand if the failed ball joint is likely to be the control arm BJ or the tension arm BJ - I'm guessing the control arm since that normally holds the weight of the car. But should I get both arms - and should I do the other side as well (I normally do suspension components in pairs since they normally wear evenly) I want to get decent quality stuff for it, so what and where? I've seen the ebay ads for the guys in Germany - item 164261610567 from a.parts and item 143684761821 from Professional Parts. I couldn't find a listing for them on Motormec on ebay. Thanks in advance! Nick

Selling my Titanium Silver 535d. 2006 model 121 000 miles. In Ireland, taxed & NCT'd (equivalent of the MoT) until the summer. Can assist with UK delivery or come over and enjoy a weekend in Dublin! People on the board know what awesome machines these are - 272bhp, 560 Nm torque goes like a stabbed rat etc but the torque from low down all the way up to the red line is the impressive bit. All standard, not mapped etc, but the Swirl Flaps have been removed, which is a good thing. Immaculate paintwork, wheels and interior. Truly a very clean car Looks brand new! Big spec, except no sunroof. Head up display, full M Sport body kit, 19 inch Spiders (unmarked), relatively new tyres, 6 speed auto with sport button and manual shift option. Professional hi fi with CD, autochanger and DVD, Navigation. Full Dakota leather interior. Aluminium Cube Pure Interior. Black headliner, carpets, mats (still original). Original Stratstone car and have the original bill of sale, glovebox book with all the stamps. PM for more pics, full spec list and questions. Thanks Nick

Indeed, me too. Apparently I have Comfort Access (so it says on the original invoice) which means I have a battery replaceable key. You may have too. Slide out the manual key and you might see a different coloured/ textured cover on the back of the key. If you can pick it open you will see the CR25 flat round battery.

Hi Guys, Just getting back to you on this - all good. Wiring fixed. Now everything works properly. Thanks for all your help.

Hi Guys, Just getting back to you on this - wiring all fixed and everything good as new again. Thanks for all your help

HI Guys, Just getting back to you on this - I put a new battery in the key and now all is well again! I didn't realise the key came apart to put in a new battery. It looked sealed to me. Thanks for all your help.

Regrettably decided to sell my 535d for a number of reasons which have noting to do with these awesome cars or this one in particular. On ebay if anyone interested - item 193156368578 Regards Nick

Hi Guys, My 2006 E60 is really hard to unlock. Can really only unlock it if I stand by the back aerial on the roof. Sometimes touching the car (to create a ground?) helps. I've found there is one corner of the key button to press that is particularly effective. And to lock. I have Comfort Access which I think means I have a non rechargeable key (and only the one key!) And some of the boot wiring has replacement aftermarket connectors some of which have come adrift and need replacing. Where do I best start please? Thanks

Thanks - boot is totally dry and no sign of every having water in it - pulled everything out. Wiring at the boot hinges is damaged - highlighted in my other post. Will have to fix it.

Thanks Andrew - much appreciated

I've been advised by many to run 36 psi. Tag on the door says so also. PO ran them at 32 psi and I had to replace 2 tyres - worn inside edges and one had the wires showing through. Granted a lower PSI is more comfortable - yo may get away with 34 psi but at 36 psi it rides fine - firm but fine and smooooth.

Thanks guys, will do.

VDC? _ variable damping control? Did the VIN check and it didn't come up https://www.mdecoder.com/decode/b892587 - maybe it still doesn't mean I don't have it . I'll take a photo of the little cylinders. I google images of it but nothing came up like my shocks. Thanks, Nick