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max535

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About max535

  • Rank
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  • Location
    Cheltenham
  • Occupation
    IT Business Analyst

Garage

  • Garage
    E60 535d

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336 profile views
  1. max535

    Power steering fluid and reservoir

    Finally got some help to do this, those clips were a bugger to reuse... i struggled to clamp them back down and was regretting not buying some jubilee clips, but in the end found that a pair of mole grips worked really well and the clips are now nicely back in place. I pretty much used a full litre just filling the new reservoir, then had my assistant turn the wheel lock to lock slowly while i kept the reservoir topped up and watched the fluid drain out the return pipe, in the time it took to turn it lock to lock 1.5 times we filled a 2 litre bottle with the old fluid to the brim, luckily it looks like that did the trick because what came out at the end was completely clean fluid. Then i hooked the return pipe back up and just went through the usual lock to lock bleed procedure which used up the last of the 3rd litre so I'm glad i didn't cheap out and only buy 2, ended up bang on the max line at the last drop, phew!... I would definitely recommend getting some jubilee clips if anyone is attempting this as i wasted a solid 30 mins struggling with the old clips, and definitely buy 3 litres as a safety net. Overall the steering feels lighter, more direct and more responsive, definitely a big improvement on the driving experience, it could still be better but i believe that's just down to worn out shocks which i plan to replace at a later date. Looks like the next job on my list might have to be the inline thermostat mod as my gearbox isn't getting over 60c at a push...
  2. max535

    Charge-air pressure problems

    As a side note i'd like to see if the sensor is reading the correct values now, can anyone tell me how to get that up on INPA, i read a load of stuff on analogue values but I don't seem to be getting the same options to come up?
  3. max535

    Charge-air pressure problems

    Well... new MAP sensor turned up so I just went out and fitted it and cleared the code again, took her out for a drive and floored it through a few gears in sport and guess what... no more code! It may be too early to tell but every time I think i may have fixed it I've took her out for a blast and come back to find the same code again, it may be placebo but i could swear she runs better now, better pickup from low down and just overall smoother now through the revs and gears changes, feeling kinda smug right now
  4. max535

    Can I replace MULF with MULF2?

    Plug and play for me too
  5. max535

    Charge-air pressure problems

    I've already put an order in and to be honest id rather a new one, thanks for the offer though.
  6. max535

    Charge-air pressure problems

    A little more troubleshooting today, re-seated the sensor and plug and checked the codes again, but same issue is present as above with all similar values. Unplugged sensor and fired her up, no immediate issues apparent, checked the codes again and now I'm getting code 3F01 (boost pressure sensor no signal) and 41AB again, although actual pressure value has now dropped significantly to only 118.5 mbar which is around 1.7psi (basically no pressure) that seems to align with no signal and i wonder if the reading of 118.5 mbar is perhaps a default number...? So it seems to me the car is getting a signal from the MAP sensor only it appears to be lying, i think I'm fairly confident that i need a new genuine sensor on this one so will probably order it later tonight.
  7. max535

    Charge-air pressure problems

    Thanks for that mate very much appreciated!
  8. max535

    Charge-air pressure problems

    Its still making plenty of power but it really bugs me, i have managed to get this car from having something in the region of 10 codes to only 3, one is for aux water pump (dont care), another for the most gateway (possibly because i replaced bluetooth and tv module without coding the vin) and finally this 41AB, if that is going to affect power in any way at all i want to sort it as plans are to get it mapped since the car already has egr delete, swirl flap delete and dpf delete with 3 inch downpipe. I may even replace the intercooler for a bigger stepped one since its such an easy job. I'm fine with a bit of oil in the intake, that's to be expected, but if oil is making its way out of the charge pipes then surely a small amount of boost is being lost too... i don't think the intercooler is at fault, that seems unlikely and just replacing it feels like blindly throwing money at the problem. So for now I've just cleaned everything up and done up the jubilee clips a bit tighter with a ratchet rather than a screwdriver so i think if the top hose turns all greasy again within the next few days and there is no other obvious source i think its pretty likely the hose needs to be replaced, like i said there are slash marks on the bottom of it so that damage points to the possible cause in my mind.
  9. max535

    Charge-air pressure problems

    Just looking a bit deeper into this with INPA Struggling with the language barrier here but if anyone is used to looking at these diagnostics and has any insight that would be appreciated, i assume its basically just saying its not seeing the boost pressure its expecting? I have also just been out to have a look and it appears im still getting some sort of oil mist dripping down from between the intake elbow and metal part of the charge pipe, so having disconnected the top hose (which is now all greasy again) there appears to be a number of scratch marks and small slashes on the underside of the pipe, none of which appear to have gone through but maybe the pressure is still leaking through. I suspect someone may have caused this in the process of deleting the EGR... I'm thinking replace the top hose first and see what that does, anyone got a good known used one knocking about, or maybe i should go straight to a new one or aftermarket silicone hose?
  10. max535

    Charge-air pressure problems

    Hey guys, the code 41AB keeps coming back, i suspected the charge pipe seals needed doing as there was oil mist and grime all over the pipes and intercooler so I've cleaned it all up and replaced the 3 seals shown in part number 3 here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=NC92-EUR-01-2005-E60-BMW-535d&diagId=11_3789 This is how they compared, you can clearly see how much the seal has shrunk, when i took the elbow off the intake it just slid off no problem but it took me about 20 mins and a lot of swearing to get the new one in place so a massive difference there, the two where the pipes connect to the intercooler where pretty easy though. I didn't replace seal part number 2 as there wasn't anything leaking that i could see, it all looked relatively clean looking from underneath... I reset the codes and took it for a drive, came back and the code has returned again, anyone have any more ideas on what could be causing this before i just go and fork out for a new sensor part number 10?
  11. max535

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Mine were nowhere near that bad yet they still caused the pads to make clicking noises!
  12. max535

    E60 CCC Android system upgrade

    That's tempting, keen to hear your feedback on it
  13. Oh i should add that it may be worth checking your slider pin heads before starting, i had 7mm hex sliders on one side and T40/T45 sliders on the other (cant remember what size they were but they were a 2 piece design) so they've obviously been changed at some point, somehow the 7mm hex worked in both and i didn't realise i was undoing a T40/T45 with a 7mm hex until I pulled them out...
  14. Sounds like you need a new mechanic, folded coke tin? Jesus... Yep really easy if you are ok changing brake pads then its no bother, so while its fresh in my mind: Lever off the spring clip with a screw driver Unbolt the caliper and pull out the slider pins with some pliers Unhook the brake line from the bracket Pull the caliper off and rest it on top of the brake disc Whip out the pads Push out the old bushes from the inside using a screw driver Get some 5w 30 oil or similar-ish (i used 10w 40 FS i had lying around) and coat the inside of the bores along with the honing tool Whizz it back and forth through the bore for about 30 seconds or so using as drill on a medium/slow speed, make sure to keep it spinning as you pull out (that's what she said) Clean it all up with some brake cleaner Grease the bores and new bushes using the supplied stuff Push the bushes through the bore from the inside and clean up the excess grease Reassemble everything as if you were installing new pads (grease the back of the pads and the slider T's) Torque up to 30nm Job done, probably went into too much detail there... Correct me if I'm wrong but you're in a 530d which has different calipers to the 535d so that wouldn't work for you but I'm happy to sell you the honing tool? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MBA1787-MINTEX-BRAKE-ACCESSORY-KIT-BRAKE-CALIPER/123478524022?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  15. All sorted, turns out it was the driver side that was doing all the clunking, i was skeptical that this would fix it but i carried on regardless and yay no more clunking at all! For anyone who thinks its the spring clips that cause the problem i can say with some certainty that its not and the bushes are the part at fault as i didn't use the new spring clips at all, the reason was my brakes are painted purple along with the caliper and i didn't want to ruin the look so i used the old clips and it still doesn't clunk. I imagine all that happens is over time the bushes are heat cycled over and over and eventually start to shrink causing the play and hence the clunking against the pads. The honing tool has like no wear on it whatsoever so if anyone wants to buy the tool off me ill post it to you for a tenner, and if there's anyone out there that's missing a cap for one of the bushes i have 3 spare so give me a shout and ill post one out to you. Thanks for the tips Mr GoNZo!
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