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max535

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About max535

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  • Location
    Cheltenham
  • Occupation
    IT Business Analyst

Garage

  • Garage
    E60 535d

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  1. max535

    Rear subframe poly inserts

    Just to follow up on this I managed to get these installed today, it really was a breeze and took around 2 hours from start to finish on the drive with a quick lunch break in between. The only thing I disconnected to create some slack was the brake wear sensor, not sure if I even needed to but did it anyway. As far as bolt torque is concerned I went with 165Nm for the subframe bolts and 56Nm for the front support bracket bolts, if you have a look at the link above there are 2 M10 10.9 silver bolt torques listed and I went with the lower of the 2 as the bolts were relatively short. The only real trouble I had was with the plastic cover on the driver side that goes over the front subframe bolts, the nut and screw on the underside came out no problem but the bolt that goes into the inner plastic guard was pretty rusted, just didn't want to come off and just kept spinning, instead of putting in a lot of effort to remove it completely I just pushed it out of the way and muddled through. I was a little worried that the car might sit a touch higher in the back but as soon as I got back from the test drive it was sitting just perfect. Driving impressions: I've only taken it for a short 30 minute drive and couldn't put my foot down through any twistys as there was quite a bit of traffic, you wouldn't think we were in the middle of a national lockdown... The car feels so much better now, the back end actually feels connected to the car whereas before it just felt really lazy, like it was connected to a big wobbly pudding. Now it feels much more responsive, more comfortable, smoother, more stable, doesn't step out when you hit a bump or pothole going round a corner, doesn't bounce excessively coming off the back of a harsh speedbump, pulls away better from a stop whereas before there was a delay before the slack was taken up, shifts better, it just feels like the suspension is actually working now. Don't get me wrong it could probably still do with some new shocks as the car is on 130k miles but overall the car is just so much better to drive now The effect its had on my car is very noticeable so my bushes must have been fairly worn, it was definitely a very worthwhile mod for me. But in hindsight having experienced how easy this was to do it may have been better to just go with a full polybush replacement, that would of course involve buying the appropriate tool but I definitely wouldn't be worried about undertaking the work on the driveway. Hope that helps anyone else who is considering it.
  2. max535

    Power Management Board Network Fault Code

    Just to clarify i meant the negative battery terminal, there was nothing wrong with the IBS cables on my car, like i said long shot but that was the simple fix for me.
  3. max535

    Power Management Board Network Fault Code

    This probably wont help but i had a similar issue recently, i cant remember what it was exactly but it mentioned something about power management, i thought probably IBS etc and started looking into it, then when i had a look the cables the negative terminal wasn't nipped up as well as it could be so i sorted that, cleared the codes and I've never seen the issue since, maybe a long shot but worth checking?
  4. max535

    Oil catcher for M57’s

    They are lifetime as long as the diaphram doesn't split, easily checked, i thought mine would be loo roll but turned out to be vortex, cleaned it and put it back in...
  5. max535

    Rear subframe poly inserts

    Seems legit https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=NC92-EUR-01-2005-E60-BMW-535d&diagId=33_1174 https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW-E60/88-ENGINE-Nonresusable_Fasteners_Torque_Specifcations/88-ENGINE-Nonresusable_Fasteners_Torque_Specifcations.htm
  6. max535

    Rear subframe poly inserts

    Struggling to find torque specs specific to the E60, the only mention so far is in George Austers video where he torques them up to 165Nm, if not from Newtis i tend to check a couple of sources to verify... can anyone confirm or deny this is correct?
  7. max535

    Rear subframe poly inserts

    Cant find that thread, nevermind im sure it will be fine, just need to find torque specs now that Newtis is dead... Edit: Found it but it doesn't go into any specific details.
  8. max535

    Rear subframe poly inserts

    Inserts that go in the originals, I don't really need a guide I've seen a few and it all seems fairly straightforward, was just wondering from an experience point of view. There may be things that people neglect to mention that may be useful, such as there seems there are a few opinions on what may need to be disconnected to provide enough slack but from what i can tell the only thing that may need to be disconnected are the brake wear or ABS sensors.
  9. I've purchased the Powerflex front and rear ones and going to be installing them when time and weather allows. I've already looked up a guide that refers to the E92 install and i assume the E60 will be pretty much the same so i don't foresee any issues at this stage but I just wanted to check if anyone has done this before and has any tips?
  10. max535

    AUC Sensor changes

    I know item 1 is the sensor used on the E39 and my 2005 E60 535d uses the same one which sits on top of the rad, i think this was an early E60/61 thing, and i think later models used item 2 which sits in front of the pollen filter on the driver side. BMW are known for revising parts quite a bit and it sounds like you just need the revised item 2 part (64116833647). If you're not aware all this sensor does is turn the aircon to recirculating when it detects harmful emissions outside the car, eg sitting behind a smelly old bus, a lot of people don't replace them.
  11. Could be aftermarket, I've seen aftermarket shafts compared to OEM on an E92 and the OEM one is fatter and hollow, whereas the aftermarket is narrower and solid.
  12. max535

    DPF cleaning?

    iDrive is only going to tell you if there is a fault critical to the running of the car or a safety issue, dont think just because iDrive says its fine there isnt a problem, thats why a lot of these cars end up a mess there's probably a number of faults in the background you dont know about and BMW wont be able to tell you if the thermostats have failed unless they took it for a drive, not just letting it idle sitting in the workshop, thats not a proper test... You don't need a code reader to check the coolant temperature, just go to youtube and search for BMW secret menu, that should guide you to accessing the coolant temp display, then take it for a drive and watch the display, you should get up to 88c within around 15-20 mins, if you dont one or more of your 3 thermostats has failed and the car will never get up to temp and never be able to regen the dpf.
  13. max535

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    When you did the hose seals did you inspect the hoses for splits, they're not always obvious until the give them a squeeze.
  14. Nice write up, this combined with carplay sounds like a great combo to bring the car up to date!
  15. max535

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Sounds like it could be a vacuum hose or pressure converter issue, what code are you getting for this? And if the intake to turbo pipe was hanging off surely you lost all power?
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