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About Eddles

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    2010 F11 530d & 2003 VX220

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  1. Yeah that'd make sense. Issue is that the cupholder on a manual car gets in the way when using the iDrive controller. The holder in the centre console flap is quite useless. Ah well! Cheers to you both!
  2. Hi all, sorry I'm still spamming the forum! I've found that some F10/F11s has two additional cup holders located above the gear lever. I've had a look and found the part number 51169241714, but I've got the sinking feeling that this only fits automatic F10/F11s, am I correct? Or can this fit manual F10/F11s? I've had a look on search and Google but couldn't find concrete info other than RealOEM saying "For vehicles with automatic transmission or sports automatic transmission". Cheers!
  3. Will do! Heh, not sure a guide is needed, seems to have been well covered
  4. Thanks for reply, much appreciated, pretty much confirmed my final conclusions. As for the permanent live, the dashcam comes with an optional hardwire kit which has 3 connectors - permanent live, switched live and earth. The cam takes its power from the permanent live and uses switched live to enable/disable parking mode. So when the switched live goes off, the cam goes into parking mode which is allegedly a low power mode where the camera takes one picture per second or so. When the battery voltage drops to a pre-selected voltage, the camera will power off completely to prevent draining the battery. The hardwire kit has a switch for 11.8, 12.0, 12.2 and 12.4v. To start with, I'll use the 12.4v setting so the hardwire kit will turn off when the battery drops to 12.4v, hopefully this will prevent the battery drain warning from coming on. Cheers!
  5. Update: after some more reading, seems that the front fuse board Z1 is all permanent live, and the only switched live is the cigarette lighter socket, is that right? After yet more reading, seems that all fuses connected to module Z1_4 is switched live, and the rest are permanent live. So F28, F29 and F57 is permanent live, and F10, F12, F33, F34, F35, F50, F51, F52, F53, F54, F63, F64, F65, F66, & F67 are switched live. All of those fuses are unfortunately populated. The easiest way forward I guess would be to forget my original idea and use two piggy-back mini fuse extenders with 2 x 5A fuses.
  6. OK, so I've decided to take a picture of the front fuseboard (Z1), and have figured out a plan for the hardwire kit, I need two wires - switched live and permanent live. I've a few questions to double check my thoughts please.... 1) The fuseboard in my car seems to be upside-down compared to the diagrams I see on newtis - is it due to the RHD layout? 2) From the wiring diagram, how do I figure out which fuses are switched live or permanent live? 3) Looking at the physical fuses, my car's missing Fuses F6, F28, F29, F30, F41, F49 & F57. Seems only F28 (Video switch), F29 (Touchbox/DVD changer) & F57 (left headlight?!?!) are valid & unused fuses while the rest are non-existent. I'm surprised about F57 being missing, but the left headlight obviously works... I presume those 3 fuses are switched live, so I could use F57 in connector Z1*4B for switched live? And finally, did I read it right, that the Z1 fuseboard is protected by a 250amp fuse?! Scary how much power cars use nowadays....
  7. This is spot-on. I'm a bit confused how this diagram works, I am hoping you can help - if I click on the fuse number, a list of links comes up, I presume the fuse protects the list of wiring diagram under "Related Documents" - for example, on your diagram, clicking on F3 shows that this protects the central gateway module and the diagnosis socket? Would this diagram shows empty slots for fuses, or would I need to look at the fusebox physically to see? Many thanks for your time!
  8. I've brought a Viofo A129 DUO dashcam with a hardwire kit HK3 and after installing the BMW harness for the reversing camera, I quite liked their idea of plugging the power supply wire in the back of the front power distribution board and fitting a fuse at the front, looks quite OEM. I'm thinking about doing the same for the dashcam hardwire kit, it needs two live wires, one permanent live, one switched live, so I could get two BMW contact pins, connect the hardware kit to the pins, plug it in spare slots in the back of the power distribution board and add on 5A fuses at the front. My questions are: 1) Is this the right pin to get - looks like 1mm square, and 2) Is there enough space on the front power distribution board for this? Many thanks!
  9. Yes, that's the problem. I moved down the flap to a lower position, but it rotated the metal bar to the comfort access lifters, and letting go of the flap would spring back upwards, looks like the most likely problem is that the metal bar has rotated in the channel within the roller cover. I'll have a look see if I can rotate the metal bar to better position the flap. If not, will see if I can fit weights at the bottom of the flap. Thank you!
  10. Fantastic guide, that's really helpful, thank you! How does it affect the side airbags though?
  11. Eddles

    N57 DPF - soot/ash mass figures?

    I'm not going to do manual regens if I can avoid it, but I do a lot of city driving along with motorways, and I just want to keep an eye on the DPF, if the soot mass gets too high, I'll do a motorway run.
  12. OK, I'll have another look at the free end flap, see if weighting it down will help, thank you.
  13. Eddles

    N57 DPF - soot/ash mass figures?

    Thanks, much appreciated.
  14. Hmm, good question, I would say no as it comes down and stays down, it doesn't go up. The offside end seems to be a little bit evelated but not by much. I think the problem is with the free flap at the end of the cover.