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About alandavidhenry

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    BMW 530d Touring (F11)

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  1. alandavidhenry

    F11 Speaker and Amp Upgrade

    Finally got around to coding the head unit to Hifi. Was easy and quick. Reset the Alpine DSP and tried to go through the setup again. It wouldn't recognise the inputs. Coded back to Stereo. Inputs recognised. Coded back to Hifi. Continued the setup. Completed the AntEQ and MultEQ. Slightly disappointed. The stereo imaging was excellent but the bass seemed to be lacking and when I turned it up there is some awful distortion that is definitely from the electronics and not the speakers. Before coding to Hifi, I could turn it up to unbearable levels without distortion. Looks like it needs some more tweaking. It is also picking up a whining noise from the engine, which I believe is usually a ground problem. Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  2. alandavidhenry

    Idrive restarting

    I updated to the latest maps on my 2013 530d and had this problem. I had to install an older version of the maps. Can't remember which year, might have been 2016. I read somewhere that the iDrive needs to be flashed to the newest version to be able to update to the newest maps. BMW charge about £100 for that. I've had cheaper quotes from independent garages. Personally, I don't think it's worth it Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  3. alandavidhenry

    Oil level

    Sounds like a good garage to know. Fortunately I have a garage near me who I trust but I feel many garages are either out to make as much as as they can from unknowledgeable customers or just don't care much. Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  4. alandavidhenry

    Oil level

    Oh I see what you mean now. I have managed to undo the plug and drain a little out of the Skoda I had but that was easy to access. Still let too much out and managed to get oil going down my sleeve though! Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  5. alandavidhenry

    Oil level

    Do these engines not have a drain plug? I know it's a pain to have to jack up and get under the car, but it would save using/buying special equipment, or having to pay a garage. Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  6. alandavidhenry

    F11 Speaker and Amp Upgrade

    I had also considered a second amp but having thought about it, I haven't really got the time for what would be a very small improvement in sound over what I have now. I have lots of other projects to start and others to finish off. Need to get my motorbike serviced and ready for the summer before I do anything else. Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  7. alandavidhenry

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Did you have the base stereo of hi-fi to start with? I've just replaced the base stereo with MB Quart speakers and also an amp. I was pleasantly surprised at the improvement in sound quality. I expected it to be better but exceeded my expectations! Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  8. alandavidhenry

    F11 Speaker and Amp Upgrade

    I only need to rear speakers for the PDC as I only want audio from the front speakers so I'll give it a go. Will only take 5 mins to code it and I assume I can always revert back the to original base audio coding if necessary? Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  9. alandavidhenry

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Eventually finished installing and setting up the new speakers, amp and DSP. Sounds fantastic.
  10. alandavidhenry

    F11 Speaker and Amp Upgrade

    I tapped into a green wire coming from the fusebox in the boot. This turns on and off with the ignition which mostly works. Th only problem with this is that the amp turns off when the ignition is turned off but the head unit is still active. It's rare that I sit in the car listening to music with the engine off anyway so shouldn't be too much of a problem for me. New and old speakers: Removed the door panel using the Bavsound F10 video on YouTube. Added Silent Coat 2mm around where the speaker sits and on the plastic door pocket. Taped the wires and the crossover to the door. Set the tweeter level on the crossovers to 0dB. The Alpine DSP will sort that out anyway. Added the new tweeter cover and reassembled everything. Repeated on the passenger side. Took about a third of the time for the passenger door. Went through the setup procedure for the Alpine DSP. I set the gain on the Vibe amp to almost full and turned down the DSP as it added a little noise at full volume. I can use the volume control on the HU and there is more than enough volume. I turned the bass up slightly on the DSP as it seemed a bit bass light when driving. I used the four microphone positions recommended in the manual to set up the MultEQ (driver's seat, passenger's seat, rear seat, between the two front seats. I'm going to experiment more with this at some point. It sounds so much better than the stock base system. Lots more deeper, controlled, tight sounding bass. The sound is much clearer now with the addition of the tweeters. The high and midrange is much smoother. None of the harsh, fatiguing sound anymore. It goes very loud with no audible distortion. I can still hear some dynamics processing when the HU volume is at full, but I would never listen at those volumes anyway. I asssume coding to Hifi would eliminate that, but that would mean adding another amp for the rear speakers (which I may so at some point). Overall I'm very happy with the way it sounds and is definately worth the money.
  11. alandavidhenry

    NBT Firmware Update

    Thanks. Sent them a message Sent from my LG-H870 using Tapatalk
  12. alandavidhenry

    F11 Speaker and Amp Upgrade

    I only have a 4 channel amp so I would lose the rear speakers (and PDC noise) if I coded to Hi-Fi. The Alpine DSP should help remove some of the BMW EQ. I may get a 6 channel amp at some point if I get this set up working. I think the Mosconi and Gladen would have been easier to install but this way is a lot cheaper.
  13. alandavidhenry

    F11 Speaker and Amp Upgrade

    Got the pasenger side sub fitted today, managed to get the speaker wires through the side of the boot to the little cubby hole on the passenger side. Sited the amp in there and there will be room for the Alpine DSP too. Wired them up to the battery. Attempted to set up the Alpine DSP. I've heard that people have issues with them but it all went well to start with. I followed the instructions, pressing a sequence of buttons, playing track 1 from the CD, some more button presses, track 2. It set the levels and analysed and flattened the frequences (Alpine call it AntEQ). Next I set up the microphone on the driver's seat and started the MultEQ process. It plays "chirp" noises from each speaker in turn and analyses the sound to set the EQ and time alignment automatically. The manual recommends using at least four different microphone positions. Unfortunately, I could not get through all four positions before it turned itself off. I remember reading something about this and someone suggested the auto sensing doesn't work well so they connected the remote on wire to the light in the boot. Fortunately there is a light just above where I have sited the amp and DSP. I'll have to try that later this week. Has anyone experienced this problem?
  14. alandavidhenry

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Started to upgrade the base audio. More details here:
  15. alandavidhenry

    F11 Speaker and Amp Upgrade

    I have the base audio system in my 2013 530d Touring and I'm not happy with the sound so I started work on upgrading it today. Parts: DSP: Alpine PXE-H650 £100.00 Amplifier: Vibe Slick Stereo 4 £35.00 Speaker Set: MB Quart QM200C £275.00 Tweeter Covers: £13.00 Silent Coat 2mm (4 sheets): £5.39 Fabric Tape: £3.19 Phono Cables: £2.78 Power Cable: £14.50 Inline Fuse: £6.99 Speaker Wire £9.59 Trim Removal Tools £7.29 Total £465.44 Removed the four T50 bolts, tilted the seat back and removed the cover (four T20 screws). Removed the old speaker (four T10 screws). I was suprised how lightweight the new speaker is. It's bigger though, and we all know bigger is better. The speakers came with a blue connector that fits the BMW. This was wired to work with the built in head unit amplifier so I ha to modify it. I don't have a tool to release the terminal pins and after trying various screwdrivers, a knife, paper clip and a needle, I gave up and drilled them out. I then soldered the new wires on and pushed them back in and glued it all together. If anyone wants to know more about this and what needs to be wired to what, then I can post a more details when I have more time. I wanted to use these connectors rather than cut the facotry wiring so that I can refit the original speakers if I sell the car. I put all three wires together and taped them using the TESA fabric tape. Then removed the trim from the sills and fed the wires through to the back seat. I fed laid the wires across the back seat under the fabric trim and carpet then removed the side bolster and fed the wires trhough into the boot. I'll take photos of that tomorrow. Tomorrow I'm planning to: - Fit the passenger side sub - Wire the passenger side - Fit both side door speakers (tweeter covers have't arrived yet though) - Wire the amp and DSP to the battery - Test to check everything is working before I replace all the trim and seats