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Ray112

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  1. Like
    Ray112 reacted to bronx1987 in E39 530d touring "chasing the ponies"   
    Thanks guys, and @Ray112 the original 5 way connector was an open circuit basically, so the feed from tank, hpfp relief and regulator return all went back into one big circuit.
    So the fuel the pre supply pump got, ended up being heated from FPR and rail return lines thats why it was running so hot.
    So I deleted the 5 way connector and basically only run 2 hardlines under the car (deleted the 3rd).
    Basically  Rail, HPFP and FPR bleed lines run into one line that goes through my cooler, back into the return hard line and straight back to tank.
    Then the feed goes straight from in tank pump to filter via hardline and a softline which replaced the Pre supply pump under seat.
     
    This does mean the fuel will run as cold as whatever the temparature is outside, no pre warming or warming at all, might be some trouble for colder countries.
    I will keep this topic up to date with KM driven and how much power I push after every turbo upgrade.
    Current turbo is Hybrid M57n 3 bolt  with electric actuator .
    March 2022 will be Hybrid M57n2 with V band and electric actuator.
    July 2022 will be Hybrid N57 stage 4 turbocharger wiith electric actuator.
     
    I will supply dyno sheets so everyone can compare the different turbos, the engine, fuel system and drivetrain will stay as it currently is and I hope to break the 1000Nm mark by end of this year. (no nitrous) 
  2. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from Toughguyhuh in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    Indeed it is smart. Of course to have these options car must have automatic climate control. But there are only very few E39 which had manual heater controls. For those I believe it's only preheating engine without option to blow air inside cabin while parked. 
     
    There's actually another thing which is done party by auxiliary heater. Once you been driving some time and engine is up to temperature you can push air-conditioning *max button, when engine is off, it will activate blower motor and electric water pump, so basically hot coolant is pushed around system so you can get warm air inside without running engine. That usually lasts around 15-20 minutes before coolant temperature is getting too low or battery voltage is detected too low. 
    First year when I bought my touring, webasto was totally dead, circuit board all covered in green stuff from water getting on it. Second year I already had webasto working before winter, and it definitely does make a difference with all these little things it can make.
  3. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in E39 Rust Advice   
    I would say that bonnet need replacing. Underside looking too far gone and rust will keep returning. 
     
    Everything else probably can be saved, but again it depends how well body shop will try to stop rust from returning.
  4. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in 1997, 528i overheating.   
    I would leave viscose fan alone as well, it won't be causing overheating, especially not in current outside temperature and not when driving either. Plus turning heat up in cabin should drop temperature if there's cooling problem. It's definitely circulation problem. Hopefully failed water pump, but the same symptoms apply when head gasket has failed, cylinder compression getting pumped into cooling system causing continuous air locks in system.  Should see excessive pressure in cooling system.
     
    From my own experience, check bleed screws carefully. I had one slightly cracked, didn't lost much coolant for some reason, but it was letting in air when engine was left to cool down after driving. So every time when getting up to temperature, there was excessive pressure in cooling system. I already thought it's HG, but was just split plastic bleed screw. There was little bit of coolant marks around it. So that's a sign you want to look for. Any splits in coolant related parts.
  5. Like
    Ray112 reacted to d_a_n1979 in 1997, 528i overheating.   
    Stay away from the dealers pal; not sure where in Lancs you are but I can help as much as I can and would highly recommend my motorsport mechanic pal; he knows BMWs inside out
     
    Ref the viscous fan; that won't have anything to do with this currently; it's more coolant/block related this, so deffo do the water pump first and then see how that goes... 
  6. Like
    Ray112 reacted to Pzero in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    First drive to work on the new 32's. Happy with them
  7. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from ger in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    Probably not easy, especially on petrol engines, since they are a lot rarer to find. Usually petrol cars made for colder climates like Scandinavian countries are having auxiliary heaters . For UK market every diesel E39 should have auxiliary heater, at least those with m57 engine. Not sure about early tds models with m51 engine.
  8. Like
    Ray112 reacted to ger in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    Thank you, that's the sort of explanation I was after...
    So it is plumbed into the coolant system and does warm up the engine a bit. Also runs to the matrix. It's really clever how it controls the fan and distribution vents, I suppose a benefit of having computerised controls for such things. 
    Thank you very much for your explanation. 
  9. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from ger in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    Pretty much what's been mentioned earlier. Basically it's an auxiliary heater, usually using diesel, but there are petrol ones as well, just not as common. 
    On E39 basic function is to help warm up coolant when ambient temperature is below +6° ( or maybe+7° like Dan mentioned), as coolant reaches 60° temperature, auxiliary heater goes off.
    Another option is setting up timer, this can be done via OEM radio, then heater is working as parking heater, the same functionality can be done with telestart, which is quite pricey, basically you turn it on with remote control. I just made my custom remote control for it, relay with remote control, added timer set on approximately 15 minutes and low voltage protection, so webasto getting disconnected when battery voltage drops below ~12.0v. 
     
    Now about functionality as parking heater. Webasto comes with it's own electric water pump. As heater start heating, electric pump comes on to push coolant around engine and heater matrix. After couple minutes interior blower turns on at medium speed and direct air flow to windscreen ( it happens automatically every time, doesn't matter what settings been left on climatronic unit. Once you start engine everything goes back to how you left it when driving).
    So after about 10 minutes of heater running you get front windscreen defrosted, which makes a lot of neighbors jealous while using scraper, interior is already little warmer as well, the same as engine, so on startup even  at ambient temperature -7°c you don't see glow plug warming period, light goes instantly off, because engine has it's 30-40° temperature.
  10. Like
    Ray112 reacted to Lapis_blau in 530i auto. No reverse.   
    I ended up trying to top it up, but to no avail unfortunately. Definitely was worth a shot though, cost about £30 in total, and if it had worked, it woudl've saved me £800. Thanks anyway.
  11. Like
    Ray112 reacted to ger in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    I understand it's a heater. I've not got one so don't know much more about it.
    I think it lives in thr passenger wheel arch, the same area that the screenwash bottle lives, but on the opposite side of the car.
    I was wondering if it heats up the coolant, it could then pre heat the engine. There are already pumps and valves to run the warm coolant through the heater unit, even with the engine off
    So it takes outside air and pumps it into the cabin? 
    Does the heated air go into the heater unit for distribution or just to the footwell behind it? 
    I presume it uses engine fuel, electrically pumped, and ignites it via a glow plug? 
     
    Thanks.
  12. Like
    Ray112 reacted to d_a_n1979 in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    As above; aux air heater. Kicks in when temps are 7ºC and lower IIRC
  13. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from Lapis_blau in 530i auto. No reverse.   
    Changing fluid is definitely a waste of money.
    But I would still check fluid level, and if it is low, top up, just to be sure it's nothing to do with this. It doesn't cost much to get fluid level checked, and if it needs topping up, I would just add cheapest dex3 specification ATF to see if it makes difference. You will spend less than tenner for 1l ATF if needed. 
  14. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    So back to webasto auxiliary heater issues today. Spare burner came out quite clean after left to soak with Mr muscle owen cleaner over night.
     
    Next was to remove heater from car, all straight forward, no issues at all. Took it apart, inside it was dirty at least, but what can you expect when it's been fitted in used condition back in August 2019, then I never bothered to taking it apart and cleaning, and it's been used a lot through cold months. 

    That's how it looked after cleaning

    Next I checked both glow plugs, both - spare and the one inside glowing nicely when attached to battery, so that's all good, the same with combustion fan. So everything goes back together, installed in place and time for first start. 
    First time it was still loads of smoke and ended with the same error as before. Cleared error and tried again, second time everything was running as should, very little smoke, no more errors. So happy days, it's running again. 
    At the end covered top with kitchen foil to protect from water and leafs coming down from plenum drains. Previous foil was there since 2019 and seemed to be stopping any water getting inside heater. 
  15. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    So back to webasto auxiliary heater issues today. Spare burner came out quite clean after left to soak with Mr muscle owen cleaner over night.
     
    Next was to remove heater from car, all straight forward, no issues at all. Took it apart, inside it was dirty at least, but what can you expect when it's been fitted in used condition back in August 2019, then I never bothered to taking it apart and cleaning, and it's been used a lot through cold months. 

    That's how it looked after cleaning

    Next I checked both glow plugs, both - spare and the one inside glowing nicely when attached to battery, so that's all good, the same with combustion fan. So everything goes back together, installed in place and time for first start. 
    First time it was still loads of smoke and ended with the same error as before. Cleared error and tried again, second time everything was running as should, very little smoke, no more errors. So happy days, it's running again. 
    At the end covered top with kitchen foil to protect from water and leafs coming down from plenum drains. Previous foil was there since 2019 and seemed to be stopping any water getting inside heater. 
  16. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    So back to webasto auxiliary heater issues today. Spare burner came out quite clean after left to soak with Mr muscle owen cleaner over night.
     
    Next was to remove heater from car, all straight forward, no issues at all. Took it apart, inside it was dirty at least, but what can you expect when it's been fitted in used condition back in August 2019, then I never bothered to taking it apart and cleaning, and it's been used a lot through cold months. 

    That's how it looked after cleaning

    Next I checked both glow plugs, both - spare and the one inside glowing nicely when attached to battery, so that's all good, the same with combustion fan. So everything goes back together, installed in place and time for first start. 
    First time it was still loads of smoke and ended with the same error as before. Cleared error and tried again, second time everything was running as should, very little smoke, no more errors. So happy days, it's running again. 
    At the end covered top with kitchen foil to protect from water and leafs coming down from plenum drains. Previous foil was there since 2019 and seemed to be stopping any water getting inside heater. 
  17. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    Cleaned rear wiper spindle today, wasn't too bad, but dry o rings were giving quite a bit of resistance. After all dirt cleaned out, fresh grease applied and install back in place, viper arm is moving twice as fast. 
     
    And now some lemons. In last week noticed that webasto doesn't work anymore. Neither on remote, neither when engine started. Checked fault codes, and of course two were stored. 11 and 13, something about flame failed and flame failed on second attempt to ignite. And least that's what comes up translating from German. Cleared faults and tried to start it, loads of smoke from webasto and cut out after some time, first fault returned. So basically webasto auxiliary heater is asking for service.
     
    Have a spare one for parts in shed, took it apart tonight, removed burner camera of it. 
    There's fine steel mesh inside burner, which usually gets clogged full with carbon deposits over time. Ideally you want to replace steel mesh which can be bought on eBay, but postage from China will bring it when winter will be over, so it's not an option. Whole burner assembly can be replaced, which isn't cheap at all.
    So my plan is to try something else. Carbon deposits can be removed with oven cleaner like Mr muscle foam spray, so I will try this option. Will leave it to soak over night and see what it looks in the morning. Hopefully good enough to get auxiliary heater running again. 
  18. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    Cleaned rear wiper spindle today, wasn't too bad, but dry o rings were giving quite a bit of resistance. After all dirt cleaned out, fresh grease applied and install back in place, viper arm is moving twice as fast. 
     
    And now some lemons. In last week noticed that webasto doesn't work anymore. Neither on remote, neither when engine started. Checked fault codes, and of course two were stored. 11 and 13, something about flame failed and flame failed on second attempt to ignite. And least that's what comes up translating from German. Cleared faults and tried to start it, loads of smoke from webasto and cut out after some time, first fault returned. So basically webasto auxiliary heater is asking for service.
     
    Have a spare one for parts in shed, took it apart tonight, removed burner camera of it. 
    There's fine steel mesh inside burner, which usually gets clogged full with carbon deposits over time. Ideally you want to replace steel mesh which can be bought on eBay, but postage from China will bring it when winter will be over, so it's not an option. Whole burner assembly can be replaced, which isn't cheap at all.
    So my plan is to try something else. Carbon deposits can be removed with oven cleaner like Mr muscle foam spray, so I will try this option. Will leave it to soak over night and see what it looks in the morning. Hopefully good enough to get auxiliary heater running again. 
  19. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    Cleaned rear wiper spindle today, wasn't too bad, but dry o rings were giving quite a bit of resistance. After all dirt cleaned out, fresh grease applied and install back in place, viper arm is moving twice as fast. 
     
    And now some lemons. In last week noticed that webasto doesn't work anymore. Neither on remote, neither when engine started. Checked fault codes, and of course two were stored. 11 and 13, something about flame failed and flame failed on second attempt to ignite. And least that's what comes up translating from German. Cleared faults and tried to start it, loads of smoke from webasto and cut out after some time, first fault returned. So basically webasto auxiliary heater is asking for service.
     
    Have a spare one for parts in shed, took it apart tonight, removed burner camera of it. 
    There's fine steel mesh inside burner, which usually gets clogged full with carbon deposits over time. Ideally you want to replace steel mesh which can be bought on eBay, but postage from China will bring it when winter will be over, so it's not an option. Whole burner assembly can be replaced, which isn't cheap at all.
    So my plan is to try something else. Carbon deposits can be removed with oven cleaner like Mr muscle foam spray, so I will try this option. Will leave it to soak over night and see what it looks in the morning. Hopefully good enough to get auxiliary heater running again. 
  20. Like
    Ray112 reacted to Steve van hool in 1997, 528i overheating.   
    Just to confirm in case anyone is following the post, the initial diagnosis was correct, the thermostat was causing the overheating issues, which has  now replaced, along with the housing, all good now, and running as it should. 
  21. Like
    Ray112 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in Front Strut Removal   
    You will be pushing them down for a minute or even less, if that can damage rubber bushings, they are already failed long before. Imagine what weight are on them when driving, so I wouldn't worry about it.
    If you have short spring compressors, you can put those on and compress spring little bit, that will make it easier to get strut out of arch.
  22. Like
    Ray112 reacted to sharkfan in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    This pic shows the rear spindle assembly (a new unbroken one). To get to this look underneath where the tailgate glass switch is and undo and remove the small hex head bolt. The switch/spindle assembly has a line though it and the top part will now slide up and come off completely. now you should see a round plastic weather cover which should pop off and expose the head of that thread with a 13mm nut holding the wiper arm on. Take the arm off and clean up all the crap that is there - eventually you will see a small circlip around the spindle (where the black threaded/spline bit meets the silver threaded bit.
     
    All I did was remove the circlip, all around the spindle and work the mechanism until it felt free to move again (mine wasn't tight to start with) - then put it back together again.
     
    Here is a picture of that (above) exploded and note the broken black arm on the left. This was donkeys years ago when I bought the car and the spindle was seized and the switch knackered. It took a lot of swearing to replace it all. 
     

     
    To get the spindle completely out you have to take the inside of the tailgate off to get to it all. One of the things that caused me grief was the retaining nut that goes around the silver threaded bit on the top pic - it had seized solid and the aluminium thread was rotten so I had to cut it all out - so while I had mine almost stripped down today I removed the 22mm retaining nut, then cleaned and lubed the thread. 
     
    Hope that helps.
     
    Edit; Youtube has everything...
     
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p1iU8-U2Ti4
  23. Thanks
    Ray112 got a reaction from kingludba in What did you do to your E39 today ?   
    Had some longer starting issues for last month, but last week or more problem have increased significantly, sometimes only way to get engine running was brake cleaner sprayed in intake. So on last weekend replaced HPFP pressure regulator seals, which made no difference, and original seals had no damage, so it must be injector leaking back too much fuel.
    Next step: ordered leak off test kit which was delivered yesterday, found second hand injector locally on Friday, because reconditioned one wouldn't be delivered until this weekend. So this morning started with quick leak off test so I know which injectors need replacing, injector 2 was very bad, loads of diesel coming back only while spinning starter. Injector 4 slightly better, but not far from that. But because I had just one available to replace, I started with worse one. For big surprise it came out just with little bit of wiggling sideways, no slide hammer etc needed, and car is over 250k miles, so that's a big bonus. After replacement injector was in and fuel lines connected, car started first time. Leak back volume from replacement injector is good and correction value is good as well. So overall well happy with everything. Now I have one spare injector which can be replaced on exchange basis for reconditioned one. Unfortunately no pictures taken.
  24. Like
    Ray112 reacted to Busterbvi in Xenon Light Bulb Replacement   
    Thanks for posting Ray, they do look quite impressive in Bi-Xenons.
  25. Like
    Ray112 reacted to e34m525i in Xenon Light Bulb Replacement   
    Can’t go wrong with them for the price! Great bulbs 
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