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Ray112

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Everything posted by Ray112

  1. Ray112

    TRUE MPG on 540i

    Actually E39 touring (diesel) takes a bit of skills on beginning to fill up tank without getting fuel nozzle to click of every 5 seconds. Once you are used to car, it's not that bad, holding nozzle at 9 o'clock feels best for me. And it's not just my car, I have heard fair few people having the same issues with pump clicking of without tank actually being full. Might be that petrol cars don't have this issue.
  2. Ray112

    Bavsound Stage 1 with e39 base audio?

    1) I replaced rear roof speakers on my touring, and they definitely were not two way speakers. Mine is without rear door tweeters as well. 2) on front I installed some Hertz 2 component system, I reused OEM crossover built-in doors, there definitely noticeable sound improvement over OEM basic speakers.
  3. Ray112

    BMW E39 530D 2003. Fault code 1470

    Sticky vnt vanes can cause this issue, but some how it doesn't seem common with BMW diesels. Usually every second VAG diesel suffer from this issue at some time in it's life. Thought easy enough to inspect. Ideally you want to disconnect vnt actuator rod from vnt lever, so you can see how easy vnt mechanism is moving, with actuator disconnected there shouldn't be any resistance. If you have dealt with stiff vnt vanes before, you will immediately feel difference between free moving and stiff vanes even without removing actuator.
  4. Ray112

    BMW E39 530D 2003. Fault code 1470

    See MAF readings with INPA, healthy MAF should give max reading of 1200+ mg/stroke. You will need another person to see numbers on screen, because you have to measure this under heavy acceleration. It can be that boost control solenoid is failing itself. And if you replaced couple vacuum hoses, I would consider replacing all of them, because if never replaced, they are all failing by now. Worth considering blocking off vacuum line to engine mounts, because if engine mount has a split, it can cause vacuum leak and play up all things controlled by vacuum.
  5. Ray112

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Technically as far as I know 13.5v is minimum for battery to start charging at all, everything below means battery isn't getting charged. So technically you are in limits, but I will agree it's little low. Mine 525d is charging 14.2v with cold engine/alternator, once everything is up to temperature, voltage drops to 13.8v. That's how it was since day one after new (remanufactured Valeo) alternator was fitted. After left overnight, I'm getting 12.6v next morning with ignition off. By the way, how you checked voltage? With multimeter or in hidden instrument cluster options. Instrument cluster is shown less than actual battery voltage measured with multimeter.
  6. Ray112

    BMW E39 530D 2003. Fault code 1470

    Check for boost leaks, any split boost hoses or vacuum pipes. If you haven't repaired anything lately, most likely boost control solenoid acting up. Mine used to do that couple times more than year ago, mostly under heavy acceleration and in third gear. But haven't had this issue for long time now. If I remember correctly, there was vacuum hose slightly pushed together on mine with engine cover, I relocated it little different with idea this might be the problem, and it's all good since.
  7. Ray112

    E39 530d Crank no start

    They might not leak back anything because pressure in fuel rail doesn't built up high enough. Get injector 4 replaced, see if you're nonstart issue goes away, and do another test when engine is running, to see what results you get, but it could be that injector 3 is on it's way out.
  8. Maybe replacing well known hedgehog resistor is easiest and cheapest way to start in your case. And second hand climatronic unit control panels are easy to replace and cheap as well, so these both would be parts where I would start if problem gets worse. By the way try to see, maybe there's any faults stored. That could point to possible issue.
  9. But you see that every brake company mention that in their technical literature not to use any grease. By the way copper grease can lead to galvanic corrosion, especially if aluminium parts are in contact with it, so you really need to be careful where using it. It quite old school stuff and people were using it for decades, but back then cars didn't have that many aluminium parts, so copper grease was fine. Not long ago I used to use copper grease everywhere as well, but sometimes there was big problems after couple years to get bolts out, because they were seized with that white powder stuff all round. So I started use other stuff like lithium greas on bolts. For brakes there's silicone grease for rubber parts and ceratec grease for all other moving surfaces on brakes. And by the way copper grease on slide pin rubbers is bad idea as well. Copper grease content petroleum, which can cause rubber to swell. And this I'm saying from my own experience. Of course it's your car and your choice, but those times are gone when copper grease was used everywhere as an only option.
  10. Ray112

    Fitting optional extras

    Soft top touring would be most impressive I believe
  11. Ray112

    Fitting optional extras

    I'm afraid you will need to cut off all roof and replace it with the one from car with sunroof, because it's not just hole in roof, it's a lot more things there. But honestly I don't see point of sunroof if car has air-conditioning. On hot summer days all my windows are closed anyway and inside temperature set to what ever I like. Air-conditioning keeps it that way. Sunroof only will let hot air and noise in, especially on higher speed. So chopping roof for something absolutely unnecessary sounds little too crazy for me. All other retrofit options have been done and shouldn't be too complicated with right parts. About sound system, probably worth to look for aftermarket options right away, because there's not very great OEM sound systems in E39, all they are quite weak from factory.
  12. Ray112

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Couple control arms, suspension top mounts and steering rack dust boots replaced today on front axle, new tyres on back. And finally that car is quiet again and handles nicely. Plus last tiny brake vibration is gone after new suspension parts. Well spent day and well deserved beer now
  13. You should never grease between wheel bearing hub and brake disc. It can cause vibration issues later on.
  14. Sometimes it's a false economy to buy this type of parts used, because they might be the same old and there's good chance they will fail same way soon. It's the same about MAF sensors and similar parts. About cabin filters, they can't make any damage to blower motor or components. Only possible issues can be less air flow through vents and misting windows on rainy days. Thought it's good practice to replace them every couple years, depending on how much you drive.
  15. Could be worn out brushes on blower motor. Had similar issues to your described on previous car, fan stopped blowing air, sometimes hitting dash helped, sometimes careful touch with finger through pollen filter slot, just to get first half spin to get it going. In the end nothing helped anymore, and new blower motor sorted issue. Unfortunately for E39 it's a dashboard out job to get blower motor out. So you probably need to check through all other possible options first, before taking dashboard apart.
  16. Digging out five years old thread just to say dealership is no good. Impressive first post, it will definitely make a lot of use for other members. You must be waiting all life to do that.
  17. Ray112

    inpa reading way off limits??

    Some of these numbers are way too high. Not sure what causing this. Did you checked actual voltage on battery with multimeter? But honestly, INPA is one of best diagnostic tool for BMW, with access to all modules, test abilities for several things, live data etc. So I would find out if car or diagnostic lead is to blame at this error, but I would use INPA instead of something else in future.
  18. Main problem with ramps are that they are no good if you need to work on suspension parts etc, because wheels need to come off. Ideal combination is at least pair of axle stands (ideally 4), hydraulic trolley jack, but this one you need 3 tons for E39 if lifting all front or back, not just one corner. 2 ton will do it but with struggle, while 3 ton get it up half car easily plus being bigger in size, lifting range is higher as well. I have 4 ramps ( no point of four, because you won't drive all wheels up anyway, but two were coming for free), then it's 4 axle stands, 3 ton trolley jack ( used to have cheap 2 ton, but it was more leaking than lifting). That's about it what you need for taking care of car on drive way. I personally haven't seen garage for nearly a decade, only for tyre change and MOT. Everything else happens on driveway.
  19. I got some rusty old ramps, actually 2 pairs. Not a clue about weights, but my touring been on them loads of times and never had issues. Nothing gets bent under weight. Actually E39 isn't over two tons (empty), so you should be fine. You will not fully load car before getting on ramps anyway.
  20. Ray112

    E39 530d Crank no start

    You won't be able to do proper test as normally, because you are right - engine need running. But when turning over starter motor with trays connected to return lines, if you will get significant amount of diesel returned from any of injectors, they are failed. You even don't need proper leak of test kit, if you don't have one available. 6 lengths of equal length hose and clear plastic drink cups will do. Stick them to plank with some glue, so they don't fly away if doing this outside. You just need to see what's happening with injectors, if it looks ok, and no fuel gets returned, go further to rail and high pressure pump. This is my test some years ago, didn't have any problems with engine, just curious before replacing leak of pipes. That was after 2 minutes running.
  21. Ray112

    E39 530d Crank no start

    Have you done injector leak of test? If not that's where I would start. Failed injector will pass too much fuel back to return, that will lower rail pressure and cause non starting problems.
  22. Ray112

    Wheel wobble

    Good point, but shouldn't that be possible to notice when inspecting control arms? Can't remember who told me that, but some ///M models ( can't remember exactly which one, or is it for most of them), has meant to have wheel bearings replaced every time you replace brake discs, only to be sure there's no run-out on bearings, which will cause brake vibration soon. It make some sense, and if you say you replaced bearings and hub carriers, I would more likely think it's wheel bearings, which was a cause of vibration.
  23. Ray112

    Dodgy door: Replace or respray?

    If it's aftermarket window tint, which is quite popular on rear windows, there are hundreds of different tints, they can be faided more or less in sunlight and so on. Plus some E39 has privacy glass from factory, while others don't. Of course all this above usually isn't a case with front doors.
  24. Ray112

    Wheel wobble

    Poorly balanced brake discs from factory maybe? Not common but theoretically possible. I had experience that brake vibration, actually quite bad starting even at 40mph braking already, in the end was caused by poor quality brake pads. Two years ago going through Germany brake pad warning light came on, so while I was on holidays, in some local car part store bought some non branded pads (only ones in stock at the time) and replaced. About year later vibration started to appear. Inspected control arms, rebuilt calipers - nothing helped. I already thought it's brake discs warped, which actually were not that old,in the end after replacing pads, vibration is gone. I would never believe myself that pads can be a cause for brake vibration, until I saw it myself. Maybe they were too easily burning onto disc, leaving neverending deposits on disc, honestly it's hard to explain for myself.
  25. Ray112

    Dodgy door: Replace or respray?

    Unless it's a rear door with tinted windows, you most likely will want to replace glass then, so it matches with rest of car. Thought it's not too hard replacing glass as well, plenty of "how to" videos on YouTube.
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