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Ray112 last won the day on February 20

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  1. Ray112

    TRUE MPG on 540i

    Actually E39 touring (diesel) takes a bit of skills on beginning to fill up tank without getting fuel nozzle to click of every 5 seconds. Once you are used to car, it's not that bad, holding nozzle at 9 o'clock feels best for me. And it's not just my car, I have heard fair few people having the same issues with pump clicking of without tank actually being full. Might be that petrol cars don't have this issue.
  2. Ray112

    Bavsound Stage 1 with e39 base audio?

    1) I replaced rear roof speakers on my touring, and they definitely were not two way speakers. Mine is without rear door tweeters as well. 2) on front I installed some Hertz 2 component system, I reused OEM crossover built-in doors, there definitely noticeable sound improvement over OEM basic speakers.
  3. Ray112

    BMW E39 530D 2003. Fault code 1470

    Sticky vnt vanes can cause this issue, but some how it doesn't seem common with BMW diesels. Usually every second VAG diesel suffer from this issue at some time in it's life. Thought easy enough to inspect. Ideally you want to disconnect vnt actuator rod from vnt lever, so you can see how easy vnt mechanism is moving, with actuator disconnected there shouldn't be any resistance. If you have dealt with stiff vnt vanes before, you will immediately feel difference between free moving and stiff vanes even without removing actuator.
  4. Ray112

    BMW E39 530D 2003. Fault code 1470

    See MAF readings with INPA, healthy MAF should give max reading of 1200+ mg/stroke. You will need another person to see numbers on screen, because you have to measure this under heavy acceleration. It can be that boost control solenoid is failing itself. And if you replaced couple vacuum hoses, I would consider replacing all of them, because if never replaced, they are all failing by now. Worth considering blocking off vacuum line to engine mounts, because if engine mount has a split, it can cause vacuum leak and play up all things controlled by vacuum.
  5. Ray112

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Technically as far as I know 13.5v is minimum for battery to start charging at all, everything below means battery isn't getting charged. So technically you are in limits, but I will agree it's little low. Mine 525d is charging 14.2v with cold engine/alternator, once everything is up to temperature, voltage drops to 13.8v. That's how it was since day one after new (remanufactured Valeo) alternator was fitted. After left overnight, I'm getting 12.6v next morning with ignition off. By the way, how you checked voltage? With multimeter or in hidden instrument cluster options. Instrument cluster is shown less than actual battery voltage measured with multimeter.
  6. Ray112

    BMW E39 530D 2003. Fault code 1470

    Check for boost leaks, any split boost hoses or vacuum pipes. If you haven't repaired anything lately, most likely boost control solenoid acting up. Mine used to do that couple times more than year ago, mostly under heavy acceleration and in third gear. But haven't had this issue for long time now. If I remember correctly, there was vacuum hose slightly pushed together on mine with engine cover, I relocated it little different with idea this might be the problem, and it's all good since.
  7. Ray112

    E39 530d Crank no start

    They might not leak back anything because pressure in fuel rail doesn't built up high enough. Get injector 4 replaced, see if you're nonstart issue goes away, and do another test when engine is running, to see what results you get, but it could be that injector 3 is on it's way out.
  8. Maybe replacing well known hedgehog resistor is easiest and cheapest way to start in your case. And second hand climatronic unit control panels are easy to replace and cheap as well, so these both would be parts where I would start if problem gets worse. By the way try to see, maybe there's any faults stored. That could point to possible issue.
  9. But you see that every brake company mention that in their technical literature not to use any grease. By the way copper grease can lead to galvanic corrosion, especially if aluminium parts are in contact with it, so you really need to be careful where using it. It quite old school stuff and people were using it for decades, but back then cars didn't have that many aluminium parts, so copper grease was fine. Not long ago I used to use copper grease everywhere as well, but sometimes there was big problems after couple years to get bolts out, because they were seized with that white powder stuff all round. So I started use other stuff like lithium greas on bolts. For brakes there's silicone grease for rubber parts and ceratec grease for all other moving surfaces on brakes. And by the way copper grease on slide pin rubbers is bad idea as well. Copper grease content petroleum, which can cause rubber to swell. And this I'm saying from my own experience. Of course it's your car and your choice, but those times are gone when copper grease was used everywhere as an only option.
  10. Ray112

    Fitting optional extras

    Soft top touring would be most impressive I believe
  11. Ray112

    Fitting optional extras

    I'm afraid you will need to cut off all roof and replace it with the one from car with sunroof, because it's not just hole in roof, it's a lot more things there. But honestly I don't see point of sunroof if car has air-conditioning. On hot summer days all my windows are closed anyway and inside temperature set to what ever I like. Air-conditioning keeps it that way. Sunroof only will let hot air and noise in, especially on higher speed. So chopping roof for something absolutely unnecessary sounds little too crazy for me. All other retrofit options have been done and shouldn't be too complicated with right parts. About sound system, probably worth to look for aftermarket options right away, because there's not very great OEM sound systems in E39, all they are quite weak from factory.
  12. Ray112

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Couple control arms, suspension top mounts and steering rack dust boots replaced today on front axle, new tyres on back. And finally that car is quiet again and handles nicely. Plus last tiny brake vibration is gone after new suspension parts. Well spent day and well deserved beer now
  13. You should never grease between wheel bearing hub and brake disc. It can cause vibration issues later on.
  14. Sometimes it's a false economy to buy this type of parts used, because they might be the same old and there's good chance they will fail same way soon. It's the same about MAF sensors and similar parts. About cabin filters, they can't make any damage to blower motor or components. Only possible issues can be less air flow through vents and misting windows on rainy days. Thought it's good practice to replace them every couple years, depending on how much you drive.
  15. Could be worn out brushes on blower motor. Had similar issues to your described on previous car, fan stopped blowing air, sometimes hitting dash helped, sometimes careful touch with finger through pollen filter slot, just to get first half spin to get it going. In the end nothing helped anymore, and new blower motor sorted issue. Unfortunately for E39 it's a dashboard out job to get blower motor out. So you probably need to check through all other possible options first, before taking dashboard apart.