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About Stevenrl

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  1. Stevenrl

    e61 bought it now, so what about the chain?

    The vibration of the engine causes the swirl flap screws to fall out - when they do, the metal flap is then ingested. Easy to sort - take the manifold off, clean everything, and fix the screws in place permanently with some wicking Loctite - problem solved, best of both worlds.
  2. Stevenrl

    Drivetrain, drive moderately, update

    I had the same problem as OP on a 2016 BMW X1 (uses the B47 engine). 6 months or so after EGR recall, it came up with the Drivetrain problem message. As the car is a few months out of warranty, I investigated myself. Read the codes, found a few relating to EGR. Found the EGR, and the electrical connector was dangling loose. I took the EGR off, and found that the retaining clip that holds the electric connector had been snapped off, so whilst the plug fit OK on the connector, there was nothing to hold it there. Replaced everything, cable tied the wiring back on, cleared the codes and everything worked perfectly (note - you need ISTA to re-install the EGR valve, even if you're putting back in the one you just took out. If you don't use it, you'll damage the valve as you tighten it). Anyway, the car has only ever been serviced by main dealers (as it came with a free servicing package!), so the dealer is the only one that's even been under the bonnet, until I had to sort this mess out. So I know it was the dealer that's done the damage, but can't prove it, and suspect I'd be laughed out of their shiny showroom if I tried to talk to them about it! In case it ever goes again, I've picked up a fairly clean used EGR from ebay for £30 - I'll just swap it over next time I'm in there. Interestingly though, despite the bad press that EGR valves get, after 36000 miles this one really wasn't in too bad a shape - a light (0.5mm or so) coating of very soft soot was all that was there. Having seen older model EGR's with 10mm+ of black tarry goo on them, this was a pleasant surprise.
  3. Stevenrl


    There are 2 different things to consider here: if you put in a different type (different chemistry or capacity) of battery, it will need coding & registering if you put the same type of battery in, it needs registering - the car will charge a new battery differently to an old one.
  4. Stevenrl

    Fault Codes Advice.

    4B90 seems to be the most relevant code there. I’d start with the fuel pumps - there’s a low pressure pump that gets the fuel from the tank to the high pressure pump - start there as it’s the cheapest. It is controlled via a relay, so could be something as simple as that.
  5. Stevenrl

    520D 09 195 miles what servicing

    3.7 bar in the rear tyres? That's 55psi - well over the top. Are you sure you don't mean 2.7 (which is still on the high side). I know you're carrying quite a load, but still.... Other things - Sounds like you're already aware of the problems with N47 timing chains, but you're already doing the best thing for it - regular oil & filter changes, along with engine air filter, cabin air filters, fuel filter etc. If you still have the EGR valve it's well worth cleaning that out as it's quick & simple. If the swirl flaps are still in there, again, worth taking the manifold off (not a big job) and cleaning the crud off them to keep them going without problems. If you feel so inclined, do the glow plugs whilst you're there. Often neglected, but they're only a tenner or so each, and they do fail eventually. Can be a pain to get out though - they have a habit of breaking off if too much force is used. Done on a warm engine, with some penetrating fluid, as long as you go gently it should be fine. Gearboxes are a contentious issue, some say to leave well alone, others to change the oil. There are a few good writeups on here about servicing the auto box, changing seals etc. Seems like a sensible thing to do if you want to extend life - plus, you'll not have to do it to this car again... might as well also do the rear diff as well if you're doing the box.
  6. Stevenrl

    Running Temperature / Thermostat Issue?

    Tallman - Yes, did them both myself, not too hard at all, just need to deal with the coolant - I drained about half mine out first so that the coolant level was below the thermostats. It was very clean, so put it back in afterwards. EGR thermostat is simple, main thermostat requires a bit more messing around with hoses, but still did them both in under an hour, with no prior experience. Would have them done in half that next time. Used my cheap (£15!) ODB reader to display the coolant temps when I took it for a drive. I too wish it could be displayed by the car somehow...! Edit: Just looked up the current prices for thermostats on Autodoc: Main £28, EGR: £21 for Febi parts - plently of other reputable ones available too - the Behr main one is £29, Gates for £26 (recommended by quite a few folks), Mahle is £34. I think their delivery is £8.50 or so (and takes about a week, usually), so you're still looking at under £60 all in.
  7. Stevenrl

    Running Temperature / Thermostat Issue?

    I did both thermostats around 18 months ago - used Febi Bilstein ones, paid £25 for EGR and £28 for main one - both still working fine 15000 miles later. Beforehand it took over half an hour to get to 75°C (and often wouldn't go higher), afterwards it took about 3 mins to hit 90°C. Whatever brand you get, it's important to keep an eye on the temps in the future.
  8. Stevenrl

    M5 brake conversion!

    I think your 525d would have the same calipers as the 535, but do check on realoem.com to make sure. If the caliper part numbers are the same, all you’ll need is the caliper brackets and discs from the 535. Pads should be the same if the calipers are, but again, please check for yourself!
  9. Stevenrl

    M5 brake conversion!

    To help with the original question.... I have made a bit of an assumption here, that we are talking mainly about the front brakes? Rears can be upgraded too, but having done the fronts on my car, I don’t see the point in spending anything on the rears. M5 brakes are, as already stated, well over the top in terms of price. A range of different sized discs were used on E60’s. The biggest one you’ll be able to fit will be determined by the size of your wheels (unless you want to upgrade them as well) - if you have large wheels, you can get a bigger disc. The 520 comes with tiny little discs, and calipers that are different from the rest of the range. When I upgraded my brakes, I first looked (on realoem) at which cars had my alloy wheels (bog standard style 243’s) as an option. That gives you an idea of what parts to look for, as if your alloys are not an option, they won’t fit over the caliper on that size of brake disc. I think I ended up looking at brakes from a 545i. That gave me the part numbers I needed for the discs, pads, calipers and caliper brackets - that was all I had to replace on mine. If I remember right, I upgraded from 278mm to 348mm brakes, and it made an incredible difference, even with cheap discs and fairly average brembo pads. Change the hoses and do a brake fluid flush at the same time, and things should stop a lot quicker. Lots of folks selling 2nd hand calipers (with brackets a lot of the time) on ebay - I refurbished mine with an new seals kit (genuine ATE, about £10 each on autodoc if you are willing to wait 3 weeks for them). Oh, and fit a new spring too. Discs and pads also available in various makes from autodoc - anything reputable will be fine. I paid about £40 for each disc, £35 for the pads, £30 for the seals kits and springs, and £50 on ebay for the calipers and brackets. And another £10 for some caliper paint from halfords. Just over 200 quid all in, and I was gonna replace the discs and pads anyway, so upgrading didn’t cost a whole lot extra. When I did this upgrade, I wanted to be certain everything would fit, so before ordering the discs and pads, I got the calipers and brackets and did a test fit to make sure they fitted under my alloys (there was about 10mm spare, so only just). Then order the discs and pads whilst I was refurbishing the calipers. Whichever way you go, please come back and let us know! Steve Edit: Don’t forget to tell your insurers! Mine weren’t bothered, but at least I’m covered if there’s an accident.
  10. Stevenrl

    So how common is the swirl flaps issue?

    Paj - we need to start a club! Two members so far....
  11. Stevenrl

    So how common is the swirl flaps issue?

    If you are concerned about them, take them off and have a look at them - it'll be obvious if they're about to go. If they look fine, clean them up as best you can (mine looked like new when they went back in - good for another few miles!) and pop 'em back. The usual failure protocol for swirl flaps is that the engine vibrates the 2 tiny screws loose - they fall out closely followed by the flap itself, all of which then gets ingested by the engine. To stop this on my car, I've put a dab of threadlock on the screws to stop them vibrating loose in the first place. Clean your EGR valve whilst you've got things off. Then don't look at it again for another 50k - they don't soot up all that fast, if the rest of the car works as advertised.
  12. No probs - just let us know how long it runs for before stopping. Worth doing a few tests (from cold) to see how consistent it is. If it does stop consistently after a certain time (+- a few seconds) then it could point to one of a number of things that happen at certain times. For example, the EGR valve changes state after a few minutes (I'd need to lookup how long), because it recirculates engine air to assist warm up (so all the folks that have removed their EGR have cars that take longer to warm up, causing more engine damage as the heaviest engine wear is when it's cold). The glow plugs also operate for a fixed time after starting for the same reason - could be some involvement from them, especially as they're about the only thing left that's producing a code relevant to the engine. I doubt the brake codes will be anything related to this problem, but then again, it is an E60....
  13. Stevenrl

    E60 front indicators

    DRL's have to be white, so using the indicators would be illegal.
  14. Any chance you could test it a few times, and take some timings? The time it stops after (when it actually does run for a couple of minutes) might give us a hint as to what's wrong.
  15. I'm wondering if you've been suffering from multiple issues here. Does it now start reliably on the first attempt? Or are we back to starting on the 3rd attempt? Back to my previous question - when it does start, how long is it before it stops? Could you time it (from the moment you turn the key to when it stops)? I'm wondering if there's something that happens at a certain time period after the engine starts.