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Stevenrl

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  1. Stevenrl

    Battery/electrical issue

    Had similar issues with overnight date/time reset etc with my 520d - was most certainly the battery. Replaced that and everything works perfectly again. Definitely the first place to start if the battery is any more than a couple of years old. Remember though - it's not a straightforward replacement. The new battery must be registered with the car, and it'll need to be coded if you have changed the battery type or capacity - I did the coding on mine as I changed from 80Ah to a 110Ah battery (because the 110 was cheaper in Halfords!!).
  2. Stevenrl

    Oil for e60 535d

    Yup, I’ve got that stuff in my 520d right now - works fine, costs less! That said, I had decided before it went in that I am going to change the oil every 10k. Might as well when it’s that cheap.
  3. Stevenrl

    Slightly bigger brakes

    Hi everyone, My 520d has the standard brake discs (ie 310mm) at the moment, and both they and the pads are getting on a bit. Listed on many parts sites are other sized discs (324mm), which from a quick look at realoem are for either 'special' or 'government' vehicles (in my head, they're brake discs especially for James Bond only.... in reality, I guess they're for plod cars!). I'm not up for spending huge amounts on massive M5 discs etc - I simply don't need it. But slightly better brakes would be nice. So question is, to use these larger discs, what else do I need to change? So far, I'm figuring discs & pads (which I was going to do anyway), and calipers (which I don't mind doing), and caliper mounting brackets. Looking at the 2 versions on realoem, these are all the differences I can see. Can anyone confirm (or deny) that's all that needs changing? Anything else I should be looking out for? Secondary question: in a similar vein, are there other sizes of disc available? I understand that larger discs were used on the bigger engined cars - would it be a similarly simple case to upgrade to one of those? I still need to run the bog standard 17inch alloys. Many thanks to anyone kind enough to share what they know! Cheers, Steve
  4. I was also looking at an N47 5 series a few months ago, but the timing chain stuff was enough to put me off. It's a couple of grand if you catch it before it snaps, and nearer £6k (depending on how much damage it caused) if it has snapped - hence why so many of them are written off when it goes. I got the rarest of beasts instead: a 2007 520d LCI with the M47 (TU2) engine, that doesn't have timing chain problems. Between March 2007 and (roughly) August 2007, BMW were selling the facelifted 520d, but with the old engine rather than the new one. It's the last and best of the old engine (no problems with swirl flaps either - they were fixed by then), combined with the updated looks. And it's a manual gearbox... And I absolutely love it. It has enough power to be fun, but also enough fuel economy (absolutely critical for me) that I can live with it. Over a 600 mile trip last week I averaged 57.8mpg on the clock (which will be nearer 55 in reality, measured by the brim-to-brim method). I'll be keeping this car until I can afford a late 2015 5 series with the B47 engine, thus skipping the N47 completely. BMW did make changes to the N47 in later life (2011 onwards - for the most part a longer chain tensioner!), but there's still plenty of them that snap their chains to keep me worried. To end on a constructive note, for anyone reading that already has one of these engines, there's a couple of things you can do that might help: Change the oil twice as often as recommended - a lifetime of doing so is nowhere near as expensive as changing the timing chain Disable STOP/START (biggest stress on the timing chain is starting the engine) Take it to a garage as soon as you hear a mechanical tinkering from the back of the engine (might be best to tow it there...) Take out BMW extended warranty (which will be more expensive than on other BMW diesels....I wonder why)
  5. Stevenrl

    Warning messages

    Airbag/seatbelt Abs/traction To me, these scream of the car being in an accident. The airbag etc may well have been replaced, then whoever was fixing it ran into problems clearing the codes. Wouldn't touch it myself. The airbag, seatbelt and ABS warnings are all MOT failures too. Is it cheap, by any chance?
  6. Stevenrl

    Service time....what oil?

    Take the £17 stuff and change three times as often! Must be better for the car than keeping the same oil for 20k+?
  7. Stevenrl

    Service time....what oil?

    I'm having this debate in my head too. Going by the old adage: New oil is better than old oil, and any oil is better than no oil. I figured I'm just going to go with cheaper oil, and change it more often so that the car isn't running around with such dirty oil for half it's life. After all, oil is cheaper than repairs. CBS reckons my oil should last 23000 miles, but I think it's much kinder to change it at around half that. So, I'm thinking of going with: https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/engine-oil/castrol-magnatec-5w30-c3-oil-4-litre (at time of writing, this stuff is £17 for 4 litres) It's good quality, it meets BMW LL-04 spec, and if I change it every 10000 miles, that's got to be better than anything that lasts 23000 miles. Hasn't it?
  8. Stevenrl

    2009 E61 530D unusual DPF problems

    So, is the EGR still disabled? Running at higher revs, it won't be doing much, but at idle the EGR will be recycling up to 50% of the exhaust gasses back into the intake. I know this sounds like a bad thing, but the idea here is to reduce the emissions that are coming out of the exhaust, which it achieves by sending unburnt fuel (inefficient combustion at idle, not helped by the lack of swirl flaps) back through the engine again. On your car, all of this stuff goes straight through to the DPF, which is just doing it's job and collecting soot etc. The rate at which this stuff accumulates is far higher without EGR and swirl flaps, which might explain why your car feels the need to clear out the DPF so often. As you said, on an LCI the swirl flaps shouldn't present a problem, so I'd put those and the EGR back in the system and re-evaluate. Steve
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