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RandomName

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    2006 e61 530i m-sport

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  1. I’d not heard that method of tightening that bolt. I used my finely calibrated wrist to gauge when it was tight enough
  2. RandomName

    DISA valves on the n52

    Just to update this thread in case anyone stumbles upon it. I would strongly recommend only using bmw DISA valves. As mentioned above, I took a chance on an aftermarket one from AUTODOC made by vaico and it’s not up to the standard the car expects. Each time I connect the laptop to read the codes it’s complaining about the vaico DISA. The bmw one I fitted has been faultless. On testing them through the diagnostic tools, the vaico one is noticeably louder and slower to activate. I wouldn’t say it was cheap either but lesson learned. Anything electronic, buy genuine or at least from the oe manufactures.
  3. I didn’t add anything, just made sure the surfaces were as clean as I could get them and torqued the bolts to the correct torque (all except the one that goes in from the left hand side as I couldn’t get a socket on it).
  4. RandomName

    What brand coolant hoses

    Decided to give c3bmw a go.
  5. RandomName

    What brand coolant hoses

    Thanks guys. Confirmed my thoughts.
  6. RandomName

    What brand coolant hoses

    My to radiator hose is showing signs that it’s not long for this world. Been looking at replacements but unsure what brands are reliable. There’s a big price difference between brands on AUTODOC. Is it a case of pick a mid price range brand or go bmw only for these? What have others used and have they been reliable? Thanks
  7. I’m assuming you’re referring to the one you access from under the manifold. The screws holding that one on go in from the other side and need the throttle body removed to get at them. You also need to remove one of the ccv pipes to get it out. You might be able to do all that with the oil filter housing removed but it’s relatively easy to remove the manifold as you would have most of the work done to get to the throttle body anyway.
  8. I went with under the bonnet as it was easier
  9. Yeah it’s the cooling system. I only used the steps to initiate the cycle but left the lid off to see what was going on. The float is missing on my expansion tank so couldn’t use the levels in the guide. Worth saying that this was what I did, not necessarily the correct or best way to do things. While I have a history working with cars I’m still learning when it comes to e60/61
  10. Here’s the process: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e61-530i-tou_200602/repair-manuals/17-cooling/17-00-cooling-check/ElXYxd2 I missed the connect the car to a battery charger step and ended up draining the battery on the 3rd time through the cycle (probably overkill but doing it 3 times but I wanted to be sure).
  11. Looks similar to what I did, in saying that he got away without removing the oil filter. Based on that I probably could have a well but was glad I did remove it as I discovered that the last person to service the car fitted the wrong filter and broke the cap. Correct filter and new cap fitted now.
  12. I jacked the car up and opened the drain in the bottom of the radiator. Took about 6 litres to refill. As for how to’s, the tis instructions say to remove the inlet manifold but I managed it without needing to. From memory here’s roughly what I did. 1) jack up and drain coolant. 2) remove oil filter and drain any remaining oil in the housing. 3) remove plastic cover from heat exchanger (no11 in the diagram). Just pulls off. 4) unbolt heat exchanger. (Two bolts I think) 5) unbolt oil filter housing. There’s one under the inlet that you need a swivel join on the socket to get at. There’s another (no6 on the diagram) that goes in from the other side and is hard to get a socket on so might need a ring spanner. Then a 3rd that’s easy seen. 6) clean all surfaces then refit in reverse steps. Get the torque settings from tis. The bolt that is hard to get a socket on might be hard to torque so I tightened it to what felt similar to the others. 7) fill and bleed the cooling system. Again, use tis for the bleeding process link to tis: https://www.newtis.info/ I went for genuine gaskets from bmw. If I remember correctly it was round £20 each. Could be wrong though as it’s been a few months from I did the job.
  13. @Vauxfan no 4 is what myself and @DarkHorse were referring to. It’s a very common place for leaks. I would suggest changing gasket no 5 as well at the same time as you need to drain the coolant. One of the easier jobs to do.
  14. RandomName

    Quick code check via inpa.

    I had the following before cleaning my solenoids: rough idle when cold. surging on a constant throttle when cold. valve timing error which brought on the money light (can’t remember the code). All went away for about a month after cleaning but the surging started to creep back in so decided to replace them. As said in an earlier post, I can’t advise on the other codes as I’ve thankfully not had them yet.
  15. RandomName

    Quick code check via inpa.

    They are at the front of the engine bolted into the block. Very easy got to. Single connector on each with a single bolt holding each in place. Just make sure the o-ring comes out with the solenoid. If it doesn’t it’s easy to take out by hand. There’s also a plastic spacer on the solenoid that can come off when the o-ring is off the solenoid but on my ones they didn’t move. Here’s the how to: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e61-530i-tou_200602/repair-manuals/11-engine/11-36-variable-camshaft-control/EcNfhJk theres a few YouTube videos on it as well. The general consensus is that cleaning them is only a temporary fix but will at least help diagnose the cause. Good news is that they are about £100 each from bmw. You can get cheap ones but given what they do I didn’t want to risk it.
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