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RandomName last won the day on February 8 2020

RandomName had the most liked content!

About RandomName

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    2006 e61 530i m-sport

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  1. RandomName

    Should It stay or should it go lol

    I’m in more or less the same position. >£5k in parts in about 2.5 years of ownership and thinking it might be time to draw a line under it. I like the drive of the car but every time I think that I should get a few months of maintenance free driving there’s another bill, usually round £100 which doesn’t seem too bad till you add them all up. My problem is that the replacements I’m looking at are nearly worse money pits (e46 m3) but they should go up in value once I’m done.
  2. RandomName

    Advice please

    Funny you mentioned the mondeo, I had on for a couple of years as a company car about 5 years ago. Really good car to drive but shows the miles in the bodywork. £250 per month repair budget might not be too far away. I’ve had my e61 530i for just over 2 years now and recently tallied up the receipts I have for it and it’s >£5k in that time. As mentioned, mine was not the best example to start with but aside from the clutch everything else was a ”common problem”. Worth saying that I am extremely fussy and do my own work so that is the cost of just the parts.
  3. RandomName

    Wheel wobble

    I had similar to this last year and chased my tail for months trying to get to the bottom of it. Did exactly what @Pissant suggested and went to a different tyre place to get the balance done again. They removed all existing weights from the wheels and then rebalanced them. Sorted the problem.
  4. RandomName

    Advice please

    Re the pre lci 530i (n52) tax, its round the £320 mark. I’ll 2nd what @DarkHorse hinted at, you’ll be very luck to save money getting an e61 or e60 for that matter. I’ve come very close to drawing a line under mine and giving up. I’ve been looking at e46 m3s as an alternative (frying pan/fire). After driving one I was glad to get back into the e61. I think it’s an age thing. If going petrol, the 530i is the one to go for. If it’s approaching 100k or over it (most will be over it) I’d suggest looking for proof of the following having been done: DISA valves (the 530i has two at round £250 each and they only like genuine ones) vanos solenoids (2x at £100 each and again wouldn’t trust cheap ones) Electric water pump and thermostat (round £300) If it’s the lci with the n53 engine, the latest injector revision (can be round £2k to replace) The rest are general e60/61 problems but as you’ve had one before you’ll be aware of them. Don’t get me wrong, they are great cars but I didn’t get the best example as I wanted a manual m-sport 530i and there are only about 19 of them left on the road in the uk, so had a limited pool to choose from.
  5. RandomName

    Wing Mirror referb

    @mpgscott thanks, that look to have come out well. Did you only paint the metal base? Did you do anything to the unpainted plastics?
  6. RandomName

    Wing Mirror referb

    I’m about to put my e61 in to get the bodywork sorted. While it’s in I plan to referb the wing mirror bases as there’s corrosion on them. I’d like to get a feel for what others have done, so any suggestions welcome? Dud you do just the aluminium part or the plastics as well? What paints/prep did you use?
  7. Manual and auto have different thicknesses drive shafts with manual being the thicker. Could well be aftermarket being thinner as well. I recently changed the inner cv joints on my driveshafts. Worked out a good bit cheaper than the whole shaft. Got the new cv joints from AUTODOC. So far seem ok but time will tell.
  8. RandomName

    Odd noise!

    Sorry, but the speed the prop and drive shafts turn is relational to the wheel speed and not the gear selected, if that makes sense. If the sound changes when the gear changes it’s likely to be gearbox related. Tyres are a good call. A simple test would be to switch front to back assuming a square setup. If the noise changes location then it’s wheel related.
  9. RandomName

    Odb2 and android units.

    Hi All I recently took the plunge and fitted the Andream android head unit (the full android version) and was looking to connect it to the likes of torque to see the engine stats on the move. I ordered up a Bluetooth elm327 dongle but cannot pair it so cannot use it. I’ve contacted Andream and they say the device does not support odb2. Ive tested the dongle with an android phone so it works ok. Anyone else tried this? I’ve ordered a WiFi dongle to see if that is any better.
  10. RandomName


    I don’t think that the cv play is related to the 1st/2nd noise. Just the whine at no load and a very specific temperature (doesn’t happen every time or goes away after half a mile of driving). I had/have play in the drive train that I have tracked down to the inner cv joints on the drive shafts so blaming it for the noise as well. Sorry for the thread high jack @markLILY. Back on topic, it all comes down to how long you plan to keep the car and how much you do your own work. I had leaks in both the gearbox (selector shaft seal) and the diff (drive shaft seal) so used that as an excuse to change the oil as I needed to buy the oil anyway. Doing the clutch also helped with the decision on the gearbox as an empty box was a bit lighter to lift If doing it yourself there are a couple of things to factor into the job: the gearbox drain and fill bungs will need the under tray and possibly exhaust heat shields removed which adds to the time it takes to do the job Some diffs do not have a drain bung so you will need a way to suck the old oil out. I got an overgrown sealey syringe to do mine for not much money and used a section of copper brake pipe inside the plastic pipe to ensure it went to the bottom of the diff. I found the castrol oil for the diff at a good price from m and p motor bike spares/accessories. I can only assume it’s used on bmw motorbikes as well.
  11. RandomName


    BMW suggest that the gearbox and diff are sealed for life but I also heard that life is 100,000 miles. I’ve changed both on mine. Did the gear oil when doing the clutch last year then did the diff this summer when changing a drive shaft seal. Can’t say I noticed any difference in shifting or noise following either change (obviously noticed the clutch change though). @DarkHorse it’s interesting that you mentioned a slight whine from 2nd. I get similar from 1st and 2nd. Nothing major so just put it down to the nature of the boxes. What I have noticed lately is a whine when cold when there’s no load on the drive train, eg the clutch in or a neutral throttle. Goes away after a min when things warm up. I’m putting that down to worn cv joints that have about an 8th of a turn free play each side.
  12. RandomName

    Aux volume level

    Correct. A good improvement though. The problem I have now is that the phone keeps dropping the Bluetooth volume as it thinks it’s streaming through headphones. Other than that I’m very pleased with the device.
  13. RandomName

    Aux volume level

    Just carried out the update as per the video and it’s worked well. The Aux is now a similar level to cd and radio.
  14. RandomName

    Aux volume level

    @Biotoxic looks like what I was after. Much appreciated. Looks like the car has a date with the laptop in the not too distant future.
  15. RandomName

    Aux volume level

    It isn’t beyond the realm of possibility that I imagined it. It’s not the first time Ive thought I read something was possible only to find no trace when I actually needed.