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RandomName

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    2006 e61 530i m-sport

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  1. RandomName

    Idling high

    Not something that entered my mind but could be possible. Had a nosey on tis and it looks to be attached to the clutch master cylinder so might be awkward enough to get at. I’m suspecting something electrical but will be fun to track down.
  2. RandomName

    Idling high

    Both. First noticed it coasting to a halt at a red light. It would normally idle a bit higher while coasting the drop to normal idle once stationary. This time the revs stay higher than the normal level when coasting. Best way to describe it is the idle stayed at the same speed as when first started.
  3. RandomName

    Idling high

    Just had an odd thing happen. The engine was idling at 950 rpm. It was steady at the speed every time I came to a halt. There were no warning lights and the engine was at full temperature. As it’s a petrol so regens are not needed, I think. Was thinking cool temp reading wrong but stopped and brought up the temp on the dash and it was 95 so about normal. Stopped and left it off for 5 to 10 min and started again and all is back to normal. Some additional info: n52 engine manual gearbox idle is stable at even when at the higher rate. Had this happen once before about 7 to 8 months ago. Any suggestions? Is this normal? One thought was that it needed to charge the battery so kept the idle higher to give the alternator a helping hand.
  4. RandomName

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Replaced the tailgate rams. Can now open and close the tailgate with one finger compared to needing to really force the tailgate up and down on the old ones. Went with genuine bmw ones as I was too lazy to strip the spring out of the old ones to fit aftermarket rams. Were not massively expensive either. Also replaced the vanos filters to see if it smooths out the power delivery at all.
  5. RandomName

    N52 power delivery/hesitation

    @bmwmike yeah I believe the b52 and n53 share a similar inlet manifold setup. It’s a bit of a relief to hear that I’m not the only one to notice this behaviour and even more relieved that it seems to be normal. As you say, it can depend on gear or even throttle position as to how obvious the step is. Oddly on mine it can be more pronounced at mid throttle, but then that might be down to the fact that the engine is slightly slower moving through each step than at full throttle.
  6. RandomName

    N52 power delivery/hesitation

    Could very well be the case. I’ve no reference to compare mine with hence consulting the collective knowledge on here. Given the number of problems I’ve had so far I could be a bit paranoid.
  7. RandomName

    N52 power delivery/hesitation

    @Keith_H sounds like you got a good one. I’ve had the low battery raft of errors as well. Gives you a bit of a fright the first time. As for the order of checking parts, I was basing that on cost. Though in saying that cleaning the vanos filters had one of the greatest impacts as well but that was more down to the state one of them was in. As far as I know the genuine BMW vanos solenoids should be good for about 100k so if they have been changed already then you should be fairly safe. Like you, my car is round 145k miles mark, but in my case it looks like mine has had basic servicing up until I got it. As for the ccv, price it with BMW as when I got mine it was only £10 more expensive than the aftermarket equivalent.
  8. RandomName

    Wet footwell, rear driver’s side

    I believe there are drain holes at the bottom of the door that can block resulting in water gathering in the bottom of the door and overflowing into the cabin. As it’s the driver’s side the other one to check is the scuttle drain under the brake servo. This can cause water to run into the cabin via the main wiring loom.
  9. RandomName

    N52 power delivery/hesitation

    @Keith_H unfortunately I’ve no reference as I broke the first rule of car buying by buying the first one I saw and have been paying the price since. I’ve ticked off almost all the common problems with these engines. It is entirely possible that it’s now as good as it gets. The problem is that I had a drive in a z4 with a 3L m54 engine and the power delivery through the rev range was smoother than my n52 engine. That’s not to say that my engine is lacking power, it brought on the tc light during a rough gear change at about 60mph (was a wet road). It’s just the noticeable steps in power while accelerating through the rev range. If you feel you are missing some low down power and know your way around a spanner here’s what made the biggest improvements to mine: Vanos filters/non return valves. Cost little to nothing to remove and clean. Vanos solenoids. Again cost little to nothing to remove and clean but if this shows an improvement I’d budget to change them for genuine ones as cleaning seems to be a temporary fix. Cost about £100 each. DISA valves. In my case I had codes for both when I scanned with the bmw tools. If these have failed don’t be tempted by cheaper aftermarket ones. They don’t react quick enough so still give codes. Budget £250 for each.
  10. Hi Its coming up on a year from I bought my e61 530i and while a lot of progress has been made I’m still not 100% happy with the power delivery of the engine. There’s a good amount of power up the rev range and lower down is a lot stronger than it was but there are still noticeable steps at 2500, 3500 and 4500 rpm. Below 2000 rpm can be a bit lacklustre at time as well and there is the occasional hesitation with larger increases in throttle opening. Ive checked for codes and currently there are none on the dme (got one for the drivers heated mirror and codes for the led repeater light I fitted). In terms of what’s been changed to get it here it is today: (Genuine BMW parts) both DISA valves vanos solenoids pcv separator map sensor rocker cover gasket oil filler cap valvetronic motor gasket sump gasket oil filter housing gasket (doubt if it related to this problem) (non genuine parts) LuK clutch and flywheel intermoto bank 2 post cat lambda sensor ngk plugs castrol edge 0w30 oil Ive also cleaned the vanos filters. One was badly clogged with sludge. Almost everything I’ve done has made a noticeable improvement to power delivery of the engine. Only the oil filter gasket and pcv separator had no noticeable impact. So the question it where do I look now? Thinking of replacing the vanos filters as they are relatively cheap but open to other suggestions. There’s no wandering idle speed and I reset all adaptations yesterday and noticed no major changes to the engine running which is a first as any other time I’ve done that it ran extremely badly until it adapted making me think I’m close to as good as I can get.
  11. RandomName

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    Noticed that the maf was a cheap aftermarket one so looked into how much one was from the dealers. Turned out that not only was it an aftermarket one but was also the wrong one for the car. Best thing is that the correct one from the dealers was £61 and a similar aftermarket one to the one that was fitted is about £50. Fitted the correct one today and it seems to have smoothed out the power delivery a bit. Always worth checking prices with the dealers before buying.
  12. RandomName

    Oily inlet manifold.

    Hi Finally got round to fitting the genuine smaller DISA valve and noticed that there is still a fair coating of oil inside the inlet. I recently fitted a new genuine ccv separator so was expecting things to be fairly dry in there. I’ve also fixed all the oil leaks I can find but am still loosing oil so I can only assume it’s the ccv. I’d heard the n52 consumed a fair bit of oil but to see what looks like fresh oil in the end inlet manifold is a bit unnerving. I’d say the engine is not using the 1l per 1000 mile that gets quoted as acceptable so looking reassurance really that I’ve not missed something.
  13. In my case a longer crank time is maybe an extra revolution and no more than a second or two. It’s just slightly longer than I’d expect. It consistent so I’m putting it down to being by design.
  14. Sounds similar to my n52. It’s just a crank longer than I would normally expect and I’ve asked on here in the past about the fuel smell at start. The oil pressure comment makes sense especially given vanos relies on oil pressure. Might be the dme making sure the cams are in the correct position prior to firing. I’ve nothing to back this up though.
  15. It is definitely a bit hit and miss when it comes to checks during the recall work. As I’ve mentioned previously my car came back with a clean bill of health but I know there were/are active error codes and a large oil leak from the sump gasket at the time it went in. In saying that the dealership know me and know that if it was not for the recall my car would never see the inside of their workshop. That is no comment on their ability more that I work on my own car, so why would they spend longer on my car than is needed for the recall if the know there will be no chance of getting the additional work. I’d have preferred they just said that than ticking all the boxes to say all is ok with the car.
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