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Cadwell Parker

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Everything posted by Cadwell Parker

  1. I'd noticed one of my tyres had started to lose air so called in to a tyre fitters on my way to work. Turns out the tyre is fine but there's a crack on the inner rim of the wheel. I did catch a pot hole on Sunday evening and although it didn't feel bad enough to crack a wheel as I noticed the air loss the day after it seems a fair bet that was the cause. So now I'm weighing up the options. I'd been planning on getting a spare set of wheels at some point and getting the set currently on the car refurbed. I know there was a decent looking set for sale on here a while ago but they now appear to have been sold so I'm kicking myself for not jumping on them when I had the chance. A search on eBay turned up very little. Ideally I'd like a set of 18s onto which I can fit the Cossclimate tyres I'm running. There are a couple of sets on there but are for collection only and at the wrong end of the country for me. Single wheels in the correct style (613) could be had for £140/£150 but considering a full set should be around £400 or less that seems a lot to pay. I'd prefer to avoid resorting to eBay at all if I can so I'm considering having the crack welded. Is this a good idea? Are wheels which have been repaired that way as considered to be ok as long the repair has been done properly? The tyre fitter recommended a local welding and fabrication specialist who repairs wheels and the cost is likely to be £60 or £70. What questions should I be asking them to be sure they know what they're doing.
  2. Cadwell Parker

    Cracked Alloy wheel :-( Advice on repair please.

    I would but can't for the life of me remember where it was. I'm pretty sure it was in Glasgow somewhere, maybe near The Forge. I didn't take much notice at the time because it didn't feel too bad.
  3. Cadwell Parker

    Cracked Alloy wheel :-( Advice on repair please.

    Thanks, I'll have a look at those and see what they have. If I see something nice I might splash out on those and keep my old set for winter.
  4. Cadwell Parker

    Cracked Alloy wheel :-( Advice on repair please.

    Ha ha, that's kind of how I feel now, uncharted waters I'll certainly give the repair some thought then. At least I'm not going on holiday any time soon so have time to weigh things up.
  5. Cadwell Parker

    Cracked Alloy wheel :-( Advice on repair please.

    Great. I've never had to deal with this before so wasn't sure. That's reassuring. The car had non runflats on when I bought it. I'd wanted to keep the OEM wheels and look into having them properly refurbed at some point in the next year. They're ok now but starting to bubble a little round the centre holes so once this winter's behind us I'm sure they'll be looking a bit worse. If buying another set it was going to be to use while the OEM set was being repaired and then maybe keep as a spare/winter set so I didn't really want to spend too much. I hadn't thought about aftermarket wheels but if a nice set appeared at a good price. I'd certainly consider them. I guess that could be more cost effective than buying another OEM set and refurbing the ones I've got etc.
  6. Cadwell Parker

    Auto gearbox service in Manchester area?

    They give a great service. Preston seems a long way to go unless you were going that way for something else. I'd certainly use Mackies again.
  7. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    I recently replaced one of the air springs on my F11. I'd already had one replaced a few months ago by an indy garage while the car was with them for some other work but after it started to drop occasionally at the opposite corner I decided to try changing it myself. Armed with the help and advice of @Munzy123 and @HandyAndy_UK among others the job was really quite easy and as long as you have a good jack and some stands available the only other equipment you'd need would be a largeish screwdriver and a 10mm open ended spanner. Oh, and a laptop with ISTA+ installed would be helpful as well. It's possible to manage without but you'll need to remove the rear underbody panels to allow access to the air suspension valve block and manually bleed the system from there. If you have access to ISTA+ there'll be less dismantling to do. Apologies for all the nerdy computer shots. I thought they might be helpful as I'd not been able to find much online showing how to use ISTA to empty/refill the sysyem. I had to buy a decent trolley jack and axle stands for the job but considering the indy garage were saying they'd need 2 hours to properly diagnose the car before making any repairs the jack and stands have almost paid for themselves already. I took a slight gamble just changing the spring without any diagnosis other than how the car was behaving.but as one spring had already been done and the car was showing 75000 miles it seemed like a reasonable bet. In the end it paid off and I'm glad to have invested in some quality equipment. To start with I connected a battery charger at the terminals under the bonnet. It wasn't the same power supply you'd find in a properly equipped workshop and only puts a slow charge into a AGM battery but knowing I was going to leave the ignition on for a while it seemed better than nothing. I also switched off everything else I could to minimise as much battery drain as possible. Next I slackened off the wheel nuts just enough to make it easier to undo them once the car was off the ground. I was only changing the spring on one side so only needed to remove one wheel but as I was fully deflating the air suspension I needed to support the rear of the car on both sides. Being an F11 I was able to use the stiffening plate behind the rear subframe as a lifting point. It looks flimsy but the supporting struts give it enough strength to hold the weight of the car. Just be sure to chock the front wheels securely as the car will have a tendency to roll forward. Once lifted high enough the car was supported on axle stands combined with rubber jack pads which fit into the jacking points. Next I used ISTA+ to fully deflate the air suspension system. After connecting the cable and establishing a connection to the car I selected the 'service functions' tab and navigated through to the option of filling and draining the air suspension. I selected the option to bleed the air bellows Then confirmed all the necessary preconditions had been met... You need to remove the 40 amp air compressor fuse which is found in the boot inside the trim behind the right hand wheel arch and numbered 182. Then clicked to confirm the bleeding procedure and then continue While the air was bleeding out I removed the wheel nuts and wheel after noting the position of the wheel on the hub. I'm not sure whether it's considered best to replace the wheel in the same position but it seemed there'd a better chance of getting it to sit flush with the hub and avoid any vibration issues later so I took a second to photograph the wheel before removing it. By this time ISTA had finished the first run through the bleeding process and was asking my if I wanted to repeat. I selected yes and clicked through the same screens as before. With the wheel now removed after the second run through I was able to feel how much pressure was left in the suspension system by pressing on the rubber bellows. It felt very soft and was easy to push into with my fingers so I guessed 2 bleeding procedures would be enough and declined ISTAs offer to repeat. The spring is secured at the bottom by three plastic tabs which engage with the the hole in the middle of the mounting. I used a suitably sized flat bladed screwdriver to push them toward the centre and so disengage them from the edge of the hole. At first I tried to unclip all three before lifting the bottom of the spring clear but I soon realised it was much easier to unclip one and twist the lower body of the spring slightly so as to prevent the first tab from re engaging while you're trying to free off the second. While holding the body of the spring in its twisted position I could then disengage a second tab. With two tabs now clear it was then easy to twist the bottom of the spring a little more in the right direction to clear the final tab leaving the spring hanging free at the bottom and clear of the mounting. To disengage the top mounting I had to turn the spring by about 45 degrees in a clockwise direction, that is clockwise if you were looking down at the top of the spring. If you look at the shape of the top of your new spring it should be clear which way you need to turn the old one. It wasn't difficult to turn, I just gripped the bellows and dust cover in both hands and the whole assembly turned quite easily. Once turned it felt quite loose and it seemed to be disengaged but was still tricky to pull down and get clear of the mounting. After trying for a few minutes and getting frustrated I stopped, looked at the spring, swore at it and tried again. This time I must've moved it in just the right way and it dropped out easily, as if mocking my previous attempts. Don't panic if it seems reluctant to come out at first. You'll soon move it just where it needs to be to pull free and you'll be left with... Take care not to twist the air line too much or it'll get kinked and need replaced or repaired using a hot coat hanger which was one method I recall reading someone had used. Next I had to undo the fitting attaching the air line to the spring using a 10mm ring spanner. . It wasn't screwed in particularly tightly and was easy to unscrew With the air line removed from the spring I pulled the threaded part of the fitting from the end after prising off the olive which grips the pipe and had a look to assess the condition of the pipe. NewTIS says the pipe needs to be in pristine condition to to ensure a good seal. Mine was not in pristine condition having score marks round the circumference presumably from the unscrewing of the fitting. I could have cut the pipe back to a clean section but would have needed to cut off almost an inch. I didn't want to leave the pipe too short or risk not making a straight cut which might not seal properly so decided to take a chance and just refit the pipe as it was. I put some tape over the open end in an effort to keep any foreign particles from entering the system. The bare air line was then able to be pulled through the hole in the dust cover and moved to one side out of the way. All that was left was to manoeuvre the spring clear of the car. This turned out to be the most difficult part of the whole job but after some perseverance I realised I had to separate the dust cover from the spring. Once I'd done that it was easy to bend the dust cover enough to pull clear and then I was able to pull the spring out from the car and give it a good inspection. It was interesting to get a good look at it. It hadn't looked too bad while on the car but now it was off and fully deflated I could see the true condition of the rubber and some of the strange symptoms resulting from failing air springs made a lot more sense. The car might drop one day but not the next. It all depends where the rubber folds. Original BMW unit with dust cover removed and Arnott replacement side by side. The Arnott one looks quite a bit smaller and came with the the new pipe fitting already in place. There was a plastic plug sealing the fitting which you need to leave in place until just before fitting the air line. I'm not sure whether you're supposed to get a new dust cover with a new spring. Mine didn't come with one but the old one looked ok and seemed to be a good fit with the Arnott spring, notwithstanding the following, so I just swapped it over. The only difficulty I had here came from the shape of the recess at the top of the Arnott spring through which the air line passes. It's a little different to the BMW unit, I guess in an effort to make it harder to trap the air line between the top of the spring and the car but makes it difficult to get a good alignment with the hole in the BMW dust cover. The hole needs to be a little lower down. Perhaps there are some specific Arnott dust covers to use with their springs. I'll look into that sometime but for now I had to get the car back together without any further delay so just had to go with what I had. I positioned the dust cover so the airline could pass through and line up as closely as possible with the connection, removed the tape I'd previously used and the plastic plug in the air inlet and pushed the air line in until it stopped. I then pulled it out gently to seal the olive as per Arnotts instructions. Re assembly is, in classic Haynes style, the reversal of the removal procedure. Offer up the top mount of the spring into its mounting hole and rotate to engage. Take car not to trap the air line at the top of the spring or you'll end up with fault codes and need to take the lot to bits again. Mine felt quite loose just hanging there but when turned seemed to be engaging positively so I was confident it was in the right place and went on to attach the bottom mount. It was difficult to pull the bottom of the spring down with enough force to engage the tabs in the hole so after a bit of trial and error I decided I'd just get it in position, try re inflating the system and see whether air pressure would do the hard work for me. I replaced the air compressor fuse and after clicking to continue I heard the compressor start working and soon after that the bellows was hard and the bottom mount was pushed fully home with tabs engaged. Referring to the photo taken earlier I replaced the wheel after giving the mating surfaces a good brush off with a wire brush and let the car back down onto the ground. It sat there, not dropping. So far so good. Torqued the wheel nuts to 140Nm, removed laptop and battery charger, put tools away and went for a drive. The Arnott spring felt much nicer that the BMW one. I'm not sure whether the ride quality degrades over time/miles or whether Arnott units are just better from the start but it's a great improvement. The car rides a lot better and the symptoms the car was displaying are no longer evident so I'm pretty happy at having done the job myself. If anyone's thinking of doing this and being put off by thought of it being too difficult... Don't think that way. As long as you don't mid getting some dirt on your hands and have the tools needed it's really very easy and will save you plenty of money for an hour or so of your time.
  8. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    Fingers crossed for you this time then. I'm sure you'll love the feel of the car with the new springs. I've been enjoying mine very much. I'm not familiar with Serious. Was that an auto correct typo Did you get the Aerousus springs? How much did they cost you?
  9. Unlucky. Just had a look to see what day my 530d was built on. Looks like a Thursday car so a close shave for me. Not wanting to gloat here and purely in the interests of balance, compared to some of the tales of woe I've read mine has been ok. I've had to replace brake discs, a suspension arm and a couple of shock absorbers so I've had a bit of expense but have done nearly 20000 miles since February this year and have thankfully avoided any of the niggling faults some seem plagued with. There seems to be quite a variation in build quality with these cars. Hopefully you've got a good car underneath all these niggles and it'll settle down with a little more persistence. Just edited to add the air springs have also been changed
  10. Cadwell Parker

    Heavy rain, Water leak

    Something for all us Touring owners to bear in mind, as if failing vapour seals, poorly designed drains and yellow grommets weren't enough... Just a thought - Do you you use screenwash in your washer bottle or just water? I'd have thought you'd notice the smell of screenwash leaking into the car.
  11. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    @B17lboro I got mine from https://www.usedcarparts.co.uk/ Ignore the used car parts red herring. They are local to me and also Arnott agents. They gave me the best price I could find anywhere. £174. Not sure whether they do postage but that'd be extra. I collected.
  12. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    Thanks. I'd been googling trying to find how to use ISTA for this job but couldn't find much, nothing for an F11, just a post on another BMW forum for an X5 so I thought it was time someone posted it up for future reference. Hopefully others will find it helpful.
  13. Cadwell Parker

    Buying used F11. Where to start?

    Yes that too. I think Sport+ is the same as Sport but with non of the stability/traction control.
  14. Cadwell Parker

    Buying used F11. Where to start?

    That's right. I didn't mean to suggest Eco Pro has it's own damper setting, just that there would be quite a difference in the feel of the car between that and Sport mode. You put it a lot more clearly than me though. That's interesting to know how it also responds to acceleration and steering. You can feel something happening when you start to push the car harder through corners. It's as though the body of the car is being pulled down more firmly into the road. It's quite addictive.
  15. Cadwell Parker

    Buying used F11. Where to start?

    Yes. Electronic damper control/variable damper control same thing. You should notice quite a difference in suspension feel between comfort+/eco pro and sport modes. Comfort modes Will be somewhere in between.
  16. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    I think so yes. Too risky if there's any residual pressure left.
  17. Cadwell Parker

    Buying used F11. Where to start?

    If your car has VDC shocks then yes the comfort/sport switch changes the damping as well as the other stuff - Steering weight, throttle map etc. If you don't have VDC shocks then @nashdm2 is correct.
  18. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    If the spring is already fully deflated that might work but the nature of the spring design dictates it won't necessarily deflate predictably. If it was pressurised I wouldn't want to suddenly puncture it. Even if it was partially deflated there could still be quite a bit of pressure left. If you've ever been near a lorry when one of the air bags fails suddenly you'll know they go with a hell of a bang. Maybe an F11 runs less pressure in its system but I still wouldn't fancy letting it all out all at once.
  19. Cadwell Parker

    Buying used F11. Where to start?

    Slightly harder than the standard in that if you replace the shocks they would need coded so theres the additional expense of that, plus the shocks would cost more if you're not doing it yourself. When I was looking at buying my F11 I was told by a BMW dealer that VDC equipped M-Sport cars are not lowered but have the same springs and rear ride height as an SE. I ended buying a VDC car but haven't got round to measuring the height to compare. He might've been talking rubbish mind you but if true a VDC car might give you a little more clearance compared to a 'standard' M-Sport.
  20. Cadwell Parker

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    I had the fuel filter which has been waiting in my box of bits in the garage fitted by a reputable indy. £25 for cash Seemed like the best option rather than struggling with it myself and potentially getting covered in diesel into the bargain. They said if I take the car back in a few weeks after I've changed the oil and filter they'll update the service history accordingly, including the engine and cabin air filters which I've already changed. Not essential I know, a notebook and pencil still do the job just as well but it's nice to have everything up to date.
  21. Cadwell Parker

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    I'll definitely have to try some of that. My seat is not as bad as yours was but the drivers door handle is getting to look quite tatty. I was thinking of shelling out for a new one but looks like this stuff might be worth trying
  22. Cadwell Parker

    Condensation inside Headlights

    According to NewTIS a little misting is ok. If it looks like the inside of your bathroom window after a long shower it's more of a problem.
  23. Cadwell Parker

    F11 Rear Air Springs

    Easy to DIY if you have a decent jack and stands. ISTA helps but is not essential.
  24. Cadwell Parker

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    On my car (F11) you'd set tyre pressures, then go... The car then gives this message... ... at which point you drive off. After a mile or two the system calibrates itself to whatever pressure your tyres are inflated to.
  25. Cadwell Parker

    Heavy rain, Water leak

    Here's a photo I took when I had my cover off, looking at the interior of the panel. I think the screw under the arrows head in Craigs photo is the same as the one arrowed here.
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