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Cadwell Parker

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Everything posted by Cadwell Parker

  1. Cadwell Parker

    RWD driving style

    No that's not normal I think garages are on the list of essential services so in theory could be open for business. I've been to a couple this week for tyre/suspension related stuff but both were short staffed and operating on a skeleton service. I guess it'll depend on whether your garage has the staff available. Regarding the cheap air springs, for the cost involved it might be worth putting some on rather that paying a garage 2 hours labour to diagnose the fault. If your car is over 5 years old it's highly likely to be the spring leaking and if you can sort out the problem for £40 and have it last a couple of years then why not. If they only last 6 months you can then throw on some Arnotts and come and report back whether they feel any better than the cheaper ones. Mind you there have been reports of cheap bags failing as soon as they're fitted so bear that in mind. At least you should get a refund in that situation and be no worse off. Glad to hear you're enjoying the car now. I just had some Goodyear Assymetric 5s fitted and really like the feel of them.
  2. I began noticing a metallic rattling sound coming from outside the car when driving over bumps. Closer observation narrowed down the origin to somewhere near the front offside corner. I'd noticed a few weeks ago the protective back plate behind the brake disc seemed slightly more wobbly than it should be but it didn't seem too bad. I took the wheel off to have another look and sure enough the back plate was hanging loose, the mounting holes having completely corroded away leaving the plate rattling round on the bolt heads and loose enough to be rubbing up against the brake disc. Not wanting to risk damaging the disc but not being in a position to lay the car up at all I decided to remove the plate there and then and with a little judicious bending with a long screwdriver I was able to manoeuvre it around between the bolt heads and brake disc and remove it from the car. I took the wheel off the other side and found that plate was going the same way but was not in quite such a poor state. It was still hanging on by one bolt. I used the same method to remove this one. You can see where they've been scraping the discs and what's left of the bolt holes. Obviously I need to get some replacements fitted but will I be ok running the car around like this for a couple of weeks until I can find the time to remove the calipers and discs so I can fit new plates? At the time I reasoned it'd be better to use the car without them rather than have them fouling the discs for several hundred miles but what other issues am I risking in doing so? Yes, the inside of the disc will get more road crud thrown at it and might take a hit from a stone or two. Is there any more I should be aware of? Do these plates perform any more function than reducing the amount of crud being thrown at the disc?
  3. Cadwell Parker

    Running car without brake disc back plates

    I'd thought of doing something similar but wondered if there's be enough clearance between the bolt head and brake disc once the washer was in place. Did you find the bolts came out easily?
  4. Cadwell Parker

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Following an encounter with a particularly vicious pothole one of my Crossclimates now has a slight bulge in the sidewall I decided it was therefore time to get some new tyres fitted to my summer wheels. 4 x Goodyear Asymmetric 5s were £436.80 fitted from Blackcircles. The car has also had a full alignment and wheels have been Road Force balanced but it turned out two of the Goodyears were making it impossible to get the balance right so Blackcircles are going to exchange them for a new pair. I just have to travel back to get them fitted and balanced one day next week. Here she is wearing her new boots I'll get round to giving her a wash sometime soon. I'm really enjoying the feel of the Goodyears compared to the Michelins. They give the car a nice taught feel, are quiet running and feel very sure footed in the wet. Not that the Michelins are in any way bad, I've enjoyed using them but the Goodyears seem to suit the car better, until it snows that is.
  5. Cadwell Parker

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    I had the same on my car. The dealer who sold the car to me found it when I took the car back so they could investigate the poor ride I was getting at the back. They replaced a height sensor but also managed to find the ring attached to the top of one air springs. Interesting to see you had the same. I'm sure both my springs were original so the ring must've been there from the factory. Glad to see you got you suspension sorted anyway. The Arnotts do feel nice.
  6. Cadwell Parker

    How Long glowplugs run when starting car

    Interesting reading there, thanks for the link. I see there's a lot more to glow plugs than there used to be.
  7. Cadwell Parker

    How Long glowplugs run when starting car

    When it's cold enough I see a message on the dash saying "preheating please wait" after I turn on the ignition. This disappears after a few seconds and I can then start the engine. I presumed the glowplugs would then switch off as they're no longer needed once the engine's running. Regarding how long they should operate, it depends how cold it is but afaik they should definitely not be operating long after start up and certainly not as long as you're describing.
  8. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    I recently replaced one of the air springs on my F11. I'd already had one replaced a few months ago by an indy garage while the car was with them for some other work but after it started to drop occasionally at the opposite corner I decided to try changing it myself. Armed with the help and advice of @Munzy123 and @HandyAndy_UK among others the job was really quite easy and as long as you have a good jack and some stands available the only other equipment you'd need would be a largeish screwdriver and a 10mm open ended spanner. Oh, and a laptop with ISTA+ installed would be helpful as well. It's possible to manage without but you'll need to remove the rear underbody panels to allow access to the air suspension valve block and manually bleed the system from there. If you have access to ISTA+ there'll be less dismantling to do. Apologies for all the nerdy computer shots. I thought they might be helpful as I'd not been able to find much online showing how to use ISTA to empty/refill the sysyem. I had to buy a decent trolley jack and axle stands for the job but considering the indy garage were saying they'd need 2 hours to properly diagnose the car before making any repairs the jack and stands have almost paid for themselves already. I took a slight gamble just changing the spring without any diagnosis other than how the car was behaving.but as one spring had already been done and the car was showing 75000 miles it seemed like a reasonable bet. In the end it paid off and I'm glad to have invested in some quality equipment. To start with I connected a battery charger at the terminals under the bonnet. It wasn't the same power supply you'd find in a properly equipped workshop and only puts a slow charge into a AGM battery but knowing I was going to leave the ignition on for a while it seemed better than nothing. I also switched off everything else I could to minimise as much battery drain as possible. Next I slackened off the wheel nuts just enough to make it easier to undo them once the car was off the ground. I was only changing the spring on one side so only needed to remove one wheel but as I was fully deflating the air suspension I needed to support the rear of the car on both sides. Being an F11 I was able to use the stiffening plate behind the rear subframe as a lifting point. It looks flimsy but the supporting struts give it enough strength to hold the weight of the car. Just be sure to chock the front wheels securely as the car will have a tendency to roll forward. Once lifted high enough the car was supported on axle stands combined with rubber jack pads which fit into the jacking points. Next I used ISTA+ to fully deflate the air suspension system. After connecting the cable and establishing a connection to the car I selected the 'service functions' tab and navigated through to the option of filling and draining the air suspension. I selected the option to bleed the air bellows Then confirmed all the necessary preconditions had been met... You need to remove the 40 amp air compressor fuse which is found in the boot inside the trim behind the right hand wheel arch and numbered 182. Then clicked to confirm the bleeding procedure and then continue While the air was bleeding out I removed the wheel nuts and wheel after noting the position of the wheel on the hub. I'm not sure whether it's considered best to replace the wheel in the same position but it seemed there'd a better chance of getting it to sit flush with the hub and avoid any vibration issues later so I took a second to photograph the wheel before removing it. By this time ISTA had finished the first run through the bleeding process and was asking my if I wanted to repeat. I selected yes and clicked through the same screens as before. With the wheel now removed after the second run through I was able to feel how much pressure was left in the suspension system by pressing on the rubber bellows. It felt very soft and was easy to push into with my fingers so I guessed 2 bleeding procedures would be enough and declined ISTAs offer to repeat. The spring is secured at the bottom by three plastic tabs which engage with the the hole in the middle of the mounting. I used a suitably sized flat bladed screwdriver to push them toward the centre and so disengage them from the edge of the hole. At first I tried to unclip all three before lifting the bottom of the spring clear but I soon realised it was much easier to unclip one and twist the lower body of the spring slightly so as to prevent the first tab from re engaging while you're trying to free off the second. While holding the body of the spring in its twisted position I could then disengage a second tab. With two tabs now clear it was then easy to twist the bottom of the spring a little more in the right direction to clear the final tab leaving the spring hanging free at the bottom and clear of the mounting. To disengage the top mounting I had to turn the spring by about 45 degrees in a clockwise direction, that is clockwise if you were looking down at the top of the spring. If you look at the shape of the top of your new spring it should be clear which way you need to turn the old one. It wasn't difficult to turn, I just gripped the bellows and dust cover in both hands and the whole assembly turned quite easily. Once turned it felt quite loose and it seemed to be disengaged but was still tricky to pull down and get clear of the mounting. After trying for a few minutes and getting frustrated I stopped, looked at the spring, swore at it and tried again. This time I must've moved it in just the right way and it dropped out easily, as if mocking my previous attempts. Don't panic if it seems reluctant to come out at first. You'll soon move it just where it needs to be to pull free and you'll be left with... Take care not to twist the air line too much or it'll get kinked and need replaced or repaired using a hot coat hanger which was one method I recall reading someone had used. Next I had to undo the fitting attaching the air line to the spring using a 10mm ring spanner. . It wasn't screwed in particularly tightly and was easy to unscrew With the air line removed from the spring I pulled the threaded part of the fitting from the end after prising off the olive which grips the pipe and had a look to assess the condition of the pipe. NewTIS says the pipe needs to be in pristine condition to to ensure a good seal. Mine was not in pristine condition having score marks round the circumference presumably from the unscrewing of the fitting. I could have cut the pipe back to a clean section but would have needed to cut off almost an inch. I didn't want to leave the pipe too short or risk not making a straight cut which might not seal properly so decided to take a chance and just refit the pipe as it was. I put some tape over the open end in an effort to keep any foreign particles from entering the system. The bare air line was then able to be pulled through the hole in the dust cover and moved to one side out of the way. All that was left was to manoeuvre the spring clear of the car. This turned out to be the most difficult part of the whole job but after some perseverance I realised I had to separate the dust cover from the spring. Once I'd done that it was easy to bend the dust cover enough to pull clear and then I was able to pull the spring out from the car and give it a good inspection. It was interesting to get a good look at it. It hadn't looked too bad while on the car but now it was off and fully deflated I could see the true condition of the rubber and some of the strange symptoms resulting from failing air springs made a lot more sense. The car might drop one day but not the next. It all depends where the rubber folds. Original BMW unit with dust cover removed and Arnott replacement side by side. The Arnott one looks quite a bit smaller and came with the the new pipe fitting already in place. There was a plastic plug sealing the fitting which you need to leave in place until just before fitting the air line. I'm not sure whether you're supposed to get a new dust cover with a new spring. Mine didn't come with one but the old one looked ok and seemed to be a good fit with the Arnott spring, notwithstanding the following, so I just swapped it over. The only difficulty I had here came from the shape of the recess at the top of the Arnott spring through which the air line passes. It's a little different to the BMW unit, I guess in an effort to make it harder to trap the air line between the top of the spring and the car but makes it difficult to get a good alignment with the hole in the BMW dust cover. The hole needs to be a little lower down. Perhaps there are some specific Arnott dust covers to use with their springs. I'll look into that sometime but for now I had to get the car back together without any further delay so just had to go with what I had. I positioned the dust cover so the airline could pass through and line up as closely as possible with the connection, removed the tape I'd previously used and the plastic plug in the air inlet and pushed the air line in until it stopped. I then pulled it out gently to seal the olive as per Arnotts instructions. Re assembly is, in classic Haynes style, the reversal of the removal procedure. Offer up the top mount of the spring into its mounting hole and rotate to engage. Take car not to trap the air line at the top of the spring or you'll end up with fault codes and need to take the lot to bits again. Mine felt quite loose just hanging there but when turned seemed to be engaging positively so I was confident it was in the right place and went on to attach the bottom mount. It was difficult to pull the bottom of the spring down with enough force to engage the tabs in the hole so after a bit of trial and error I decided I'd just get it in position, try re inflating the system and see whether air pressure would do the hard work for me. I replaced the air compressor fuse and after clicking to continue I heard the compressor start working and soon after that the bellows was hard and the bottom mount was pushed fully home with tabs engaged. Referring to the photo taken earlier I replaced the wheel after giving the mating surfaces a good brush off with a wire brush and let the car back down onto the ground. It sat there, not dropping. So far so good. Torqued the wheel nuts to 140Nm, removed laptop and battery charger, put tools away and went for a drive. The Arnott spring felt much nicer that the BMW one. I'm not sure whether the ride quality degrades over time/miles or whether Arnott units are just better from the start but it's a great improvement. The car rides a lot better and the symptoms the car was displaying are no longer evident so I'm pretty happy at having done the job myself. If anyone's thinking of doing this and being put off by thought of it being too difficult... Don't think that way. As long as you don't mid getting some dirt on your hands and have the tools needed it's really very easy and will save you plenty of money for an hour or so of your time.
  9. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    Excellent. Always a good feeling to get that. Now you have some breathing space to do the springs in your own time, something it seems as lot of folk are going to have plenty of in the coming weeks.
  10. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    Definitely worth a try at that price I reckon especially if the ride feels just the same. Hope they last a while for you. I had one split as well. It was replaced at the same time as the rear shock. There's a split in one of my fronts as well but that's a bit more involved so it'll have to wait til the spring or shock need replacing.
  11. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    Fingers crossed for the MOT so you can do the springs at your own pace. If you need to do them sharpish to get the car through a retest you could probably do the pair in an hour and a half or less as long as you have a decent jack.
  12. Cadwell Parker

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Taking advantage of the improved weather situation round here this afternoon and a couple of days off work I gave it the first proper two bucket wash of the year and a bit of a spring clean inside. Looks so much better after a proper wash rather than just a snow foam and blast with the pressure washer Following on from my previous post re condensation inside the rear door frame I made a point of checking for any further water ingress after I'd finished washing but found nothing. The car was sloping in the opposite direction this time though so that might have an effect. I'll keep an eye on it.
  13. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    Hey, glad to hear you got sorted and I was able to help. Was that £35.99 for the pair? Put an Ebay link up if you can and let us know how you get on with them and how they last. My Arnotts should be good for a few miles yet but if the more affordable ones last a while and feel ok to drive on they'd certainly be worth considering next time I get that sinking feeling.
  14. Cadwell Parker

    DIY F11 air spring replacement

    Hi @percha My car is an F11 530d M-Sport, 2014 lci, 258bhp. I think yours will be pre lci but the springs are just the same afaik. As it happens I still have the box my spring came in. Looks like you have the right number there... My n/s spring got changed at 64360 miles but had been leaking for few miles prior to that. Let me know if you need any more info/advice. Happy to help if I can.
  15. Cadwell Parker

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Today I learned how to remove the door card from the rear door so I could check the vapour barrier. I've been seeing a slight amount of condensation on the ///M trim panel so wanted to find the source. After pouring a couple of jugs of water down the outside of the window the vapour barrier seems ok. There's no obvious sign of it leaking and it feels like it has a firm seal all the way round. At the front bottom corner of the door and inner seal there were some dribbles of water but I can't see where from. I'll have to investigate further but for now have just put the door card back on. At least I've learned something about the car today even if I haven't found the leak.
  16. Cadwell Parker

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Best wishes to you and your family. Hope you'll be back out in the car soon.
  17. Cadwell Parker

    What do you like about you 5 series.

    F11 LCI 530d Effortless overtaking Variable Damping Control General quality of the interior Big solid car which seems to get lighter when you decide to hurl it at corners on open mountain roads Loading up the back with heavy things knowing the air suspension will adjust accordingly Electric tailgate (Never knew I needed one til I bought this car) ZF8HP gearbox (Never knew I needed one til I bought this car) Set and forget HVAC system - It just keeps things nice and comfortable. I never need to touch it It smells nice inside Mrs CP has these on her F20. I quite like the F20, not as much as I like mine but I'm rather envious of her headlights and it's really the only thing I'd really like to have added to my car... Maybe comfort seats, adaptive drive... No I'm happy the way it is
  18. Cadwell Parker

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Excellent choice. I've done 12k on my Crossclimates now. Love them
  19. Cadwell Parker

    Alloy refurb- What colour with Space Grey?

    Definite attitude Work well with the other black bits.
  20. Cadwell Parker

    RWD driving style

    Exciting times indeed. At the risk of further hijacking Bezs thread, Blackcircles have those at a good price at the moment. Sounds like you might need them more urgently than they'd cater for though. Hope you'll let us know how you get on with them.
  21. Cadwell Parker

    RWD driving style

    I'd be interested to know that as well. I'm also dithering over what to put on my summer wheels. I'm caught between Dunlop Sportmaxx RT 2 or Goodyear Assymetric 5.
  22. Cadwell Parker

    RWD driving style

    Make sure you get the alignment checked when you get the tyres on. Mine started to feel a bit like that above 75/80 after I caught a nasty pothole.
  23. Cadwell Parker

    Is dealer ripping me off???

    But if you're paying for it they should at least keep the faulty one to show you. I hope they do.
  24. Cadwell Parker

    Pollen filter change - need to disconnect battery?

    I'm pretty sure mine are both the wrong way round although I've not noticed any obvious signs to suggest that. I'm going to have to check physically to confirm. Presumably if they are the wrong way round it'd be inadvisable to just turn them round and so put the dirty side of the filter where the clean airflow should be. If mine were fresh I'd be tempted to take them out and give them a good vacuuming before refitting correctly but as they've been in for 12k miles I'll just see about getting some new ones and fitting them soonish.
  25. Cadwell Parker

    F11 N57 Intake Manifold Cleaning

    Thinking about it though you'd still need to walnut blast the inlet ports to do the job most effectively. The manifold is only half the job.
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