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  1. LloydBMWfreak

    Swirl flaps

    Many thanks for that info. My car has a mere 99k miles with no sign of leaks, but I am planning to inspect the manifold via the EGR to find out if it requires cleaning. Having had an E46 330D with no swirl flaps dissolve the manifold seam, I have no wish to allow any internal bits being weakened to the point of failure.
  2. LloydBMWfreak

    Swirl flaps

    If you open the bonnet and look on the LH side of the engine you will see the inlet manifold. Using a small mirror and a good light source, look under the edge of the manifold. You should see a rod running horizontally from front to rear. There are connections to the swirl flaps that will move to their opposite position if you run the engine. The larger 33mm swirl flaps have their fixings above and below the line of the rod. (diametrically opposed). The smaller 22mm ones are in line with the rod. If the rod is missing and/or you can see blanks fitted, no further action is required. This might enable you to order the correct bits. Good Luck.
  3. LloydBMWfreak

    E61 - new owner - SOS - water running into boot....

    Pan roof drains on the E61 flow though tubes that exit in the rear o/s an n/s of boot. Also via front door pillars. On E60 saloons, they exit above the rear wheel arch plastic liners. They have stupid valves that block with crud. An american video shows how to find and do these. Remove the valves and 'Vacuum' the tubes using an aqua vac. If you use compressed air then you will blow joins apart in the headlining and give yourself a really awful job to do. Drill holes in the 'Spare' wheel well so that anything can get out, even condensation will accumulate and damage those electrical bits in the plastic foam tray. Do not drive in deep water as loads of sensors etc. will be soaked only to haunt you ever after.
  4. LloydBMWfreak

    Swirl flaps are going back in.

    Swirl flaps close one of the two inlet tracts at low rpm and/or low power settings. They are operated by a rod connected to a vacuum controlled actuator. The objective was to shut off the flow through one inlet valve and spin the air in the cylinder at a faster rate via the other valve mixing it more thoroughly at low rpm. When the manifold becomes caked with recirculated gas, oil and grime, the benefits are minimal and wear or sticking puts strain on the flaps and their fixing screws. There is no room for anything non compressible in the combustion chamber, so there will always be a risk of failure whilst they remain installed. Two types were used on the M57 530D. Using a mirror and torch, they can just be seen under the edge of the inlet manifold on the LH side of the engine. The 22mm versions have the fixing screws in line horizontally. The 33mm versions have the screws at 45 degrees diametrically opposed. If the rod is missing, or the blanks can be seen then they will have been removed. Very few models do not have them but the rod will be missing on these. I am waiting for warmer weather before removing them on my 2005 E61 530D as I have no garage now. Mine has the 33mm versions that fail less often BUT use larger screws which will cause more damage. Will report more when I have done it, if anybody wants to know. The E60 series is a well built car spoiled by irritatingly small design flaws. The above plus leaking roofs, doors and water flowing through the heater ducts even when they are clear. As with baths in the UK, taps run faster, but the plug hole is same as when Victorians used it. No attention to detail!
  5. LloydBMWfreak

    Water leak, wet footwell

    In very heavy rain, my E61 530D had its rear RH foot well filled with water. The ducts under the driver's seat were wet all round inside. The 'Scuttles' under the bonnet could not cope even though they were clear, so the rain ran through the heater ducts into the rear foot well. I carefully cut a flap in the carpet and this revealed a rubber plug that I removed. No point in replacing this unless you drive in deep water as the under floor panels prevent splashing through the holes. As water can also enter via the door inner sealing it needs to be able to escape or electrical problems can occur. Unfortunately there is very thick foam under the carpet which soaks all of this water up and take ages to dry. Placing some plastic 'Battens' under this can keep the foam clear of the water, but the carpet does not allow flow through it. If overmats are used, a judicious hole cut in the carpet is all that is necessary. The car has a complete plastic under panel. Removing this may reveal even more rubber bungs that can be removed to prevent water accumulation and subsequent corrosion. I have removed floor bungs in all of my previous BMW's. 2002, E3 2500, E28 525e and E46 330D. So far, no downside to any of this.