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Greenfingers last won the day on April 12 2021

Greenfingers had the most liked content!

About Greenfingers


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    Me: F07 530dGT 2010 Wife: F31 320d 2015

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  1. Greenfingers

    530D 2010 N57 Valve Cover Leaking

    Okay, job done and hopefully no more leak! It took longer than I had hoped, but at least it's proof that you don't need to take the inlet manifold off. Having said that, it's probably easier to do this job in conjunction with cleaning the manifold, since both jobs require moving the wiring loom out of the way and you do need to bend the metal supply pipes to the fuel rail with the manifold in situ. The video was very helpful - even without understanding the commentary, it demonstrates a lot of the salient points. The trickiest bits for me were accessing the rearmost bolts holding the valve cover on and then teasing the cover itself out and over the timing chain sprocket. I ended up removing the sound insulation panel that is fixed to the bulkhead before refitting the cover, just to gain those few millimetres of space. If anyone is considering doing this job, I recommend checking you have a suitable tool for getting at bolt #22, which is all the way behind the cover. The bulkhead prevents access from directly above, but it is possible if you have a socket and flexi coupling of the right length. After watching horror Youtube videos of Russians using something like a trebuchet trying to pull seized injectors out, I checked to see if mine would come free before stripping everything else out! Perhaps I was lucky, but they came out so easily that the slide hammer wasn't really necessary. So as promised, a few pictures:- Fuel supply pipes clear of injectors, ready to attach slide hammer with M14 x 1.5 fitting Lots of electric connections to unplug, then wiring harness moved to the right, injector plug cables pulled to front, a few bits detached from left side, fuel rail and return lines can be folded out of the way, oil filler cap removed 23 bolts undone and valve cover ready to remove. The two fuel supply pipes are fixed behind the inlet manifold and I had to bend them backwards a bit before being able to get the cover off. I left the injectors in place right up to this point, to prevent anything accidentally dropping into the holes. Valve cover off. It has to come forward to clear the bulkhead, so the tricky bit is getting it over the timing chain while pulling back the metal fuel pipes so you can lift it high enough at the same time as avoiding getting snagged on all the cables! No sign of blowby on injectors. Tiny bit of corrosion on the rearmost two Old gasket measured 7mm deep, new gasket 9.5mm deep, depth of groove in valve cover is 6mm Negligable forward/backward movement of timing chain on sprocket Clean injector ready to go back in Once reassembled, I didn't bleed the fuel system, just spun the starter motor for ten seconds, waited 10 seconds, then pushed the starter again and it fired up on all six after 9 seconds. Thanks for the help Matthew. I was doing this outside and it was dark when I finished.
  2. Greenfingers

    530D 2010 N57 Valve Cover Leaking

    Wow, thank you Matthew! Don't know how you do it. I couldn't find anything helpful on the web, so this is like gold dust. I'm going to embark on this shortly and will take a few pictures along the way, which may help when others have the sam problem. Fingers crossed..........
  3. Greenfingers

    530D 2010 N57 Valve Cover Leaking

    Has anyone here actually replaced their rocker cover gasket? I've got a small oil leak right at the back on the exhaust side. I started noticing a burning smell and occasional white smoke coming from the back of the engine when regens occurred at about 300 mile intervals and it's now evidenced by drips on my block paving. This seems to be a common occurrence if you Google it, so I'm surprised not to find more information on this forum. Anyway, I thought it would be an easyish job and ordered a new gasket set and some injector seals last week. I was dreading the injectors being stuck, so started by trying to get them out this afternoon and they all came out with no trouble at all. Now I've read this thread and Matthew's helpful as ever post - except for:- 'Necessary preliminary work: Remove intake plenum' Does anyone know if it really is necessary to remove the inlet manifold? I need to use my car tomorrow evening and had expected to finish this job in a few hours tomorrow, but remember previously spending most of a weekend just doing the inlet manifold! Any pointers would be much appreciated.
  4. The reason your suspension drops while the vehicle is stationary is due to a leak - meaning the compressor is not the cause. One or both side can drop if you have a leaking airbag - or associated connectors. Airbags commonly get worn and leak, which is the first, easiest and cheapest fix. If you ignore the problem and keep changing fuses, you will eventually knacker the compressor.
  5. The Chinese TPMS sensors on my wife's winter wheels seem to consistently read about .2 Bar less than all the other gauges I have, so I accommodate this by setting the on board computer to lower readings.
  6. Greenfingers

    Oil level too high.

    Plenty of good points mentioned above and I've also had previous experience of fuel diluting the oil due to failed DPF regenerations, but didn't this only affect the M series engines? I would rely on the dipstick instead of the computer. My N57 engine has always read higher on the computer than the dipstick: the computer reads from a sensor that can become clogged or give erroneous readings, whereas the dipstick cannot give a false reading as long as you check it while on level ground, engine off etc. The dipstick is a useful monitor:- foam is bad news, suggesting water contamination, but in your case, try wiping the oil off with your finger and smelling it - if it feels too thin or smells of diesel, that suggests fuel contamination.
  7. Greenfingers

    Throttle travel difference N57D30O0 vs N57D30O1

    Thanks Matthew. That's what I expected and probably not good news. The car is actually a cat N and I could see that the bonnet and nsf wing had been replaced (quite badly). The bonnet could easily be adjusted, but I have other concerns, mainly with the steering pulling slightly and the front diving slightly on the right side on braking. I feel very sorry for the owner, who doesn't know much about spannering and bought the car 18 months ago, without a clue about it's history. He took it to a BMW specialist and has since spent over £4k on it! He felt the steering was off, so the nsf strut has been replaced and 4 wheel tracking done. He showed me bills he had paid for all manner of things - including a new inlet manifold after a 'drivetrain malfunction' warning and I did wonder if changing that may have disturbed something to do with the throttle position. It also had a stage 1 remap, supposedly giving the car 312bhp. My car had a similar 'Quantum' stage 1 remap, which I understood gave me 300bhp, so I was expecting the LCI model to have a bit more urgency, but ot did't feel like that. Maybe it just didn't feel quicker because it was quieter and the lack of throttle pedal travel.
  8. My 2010 530d GT has covered nearly 130k miles and I have been looking to update it. Yesterday, I tried out a 2014 530d GT with 90k miles on the clock and was surprised at the difference in the way they drive. It's not quite comparing onions with onions, because the newer car is an M sport while mine is a SE spec and the stiffer suspension was very noticeable in the M sport, but the difference in character of the engines was surprising. My first impression on starting the newer car was that the engine seemed a bit more silky and quieter and then immediately when driving off, I noticed there was much less travel in the throttle pedal. In other words, the off throttle position of the foot pedal was closer to the floor than in my car. As I understand it, the throttle mechamism is fully electronic and there's no provision for cable adjustment. Has anyone else noticed a difference in throttle pedal heights in different models? Perhaps it is just the same amount of modulation produced by a shorter travel, but it felt odd to me. Perhaps it is just a feature that differs in the LCI models, but then a few minutes later when we got onto a dual carriageway, I floored the pedal and although the response was immediate, the car didn't seem to pull as well as mine. There may be other things at play here, because a lot of work had been done on the car, but I would be grateful for any suggestions - any idea Matthew?
  9. Greenfingers

    G31 buying advice please

    Thanks for all the input. The M5 owner has now taken a deposit from someone else, which rules out that option. The owner of the Cat S car isn't able (or willing) to reveal much about it's provenance, which puts me off from going to see it. The other ex police G31 does seem like a lot of money for a 120k miles car, especially when considering the abuse it has potentially seen and although I like the towbar option and perhaps the potential of screaming through traffic in the guise of a police car, white bodywork and cloth seats remind me more of holiday hire cars than my favourite toy! So for now I'm going back to the F series section of this forum. In my opinion, the F10/F11 is a much better option than a Mercedes E class or Audi A6, even if it does look a bit dated and I would rather a higher seating position. Used car prices are ridiculously high at the moment, but I would like to update the best car I have ever owned before waiting (1 to 3 years?) until my Cybertruck finally arrives. Having considered all sorts of alternatives, I now feel the best car to keep me happy is another diesel LCI F07!
  10. Greenfingers

    G31 buying advice please

    Yes, ex police cars generally seem to have horrible looking everything. Some people will say they are the best looked after cars, but cosmetically they usually tend to be the worst looked after cars. I think the screens in these two are original - just badly scatched. The car on eBay looks like it has NBT Evo ID6, which is correct for the model year. However, I do wonder what other differences there may be with a police specced car. Most I have seen before at auctions were listed as BMW xxxAC, as opposed to SE or M sport. My ex police Vito had a very different spec - including Eberspacher heater and secondary battery, which was great. Here is a VIN decoder link for the G31 on eBay:- https://bimmer.work/vin/bbd9d73c199c750863872fc33f2324681/ Although it doesn't mention the sat nav version, which I believe should be S609A for Professional. No idea what the '940 special equipment' is.
  11. Greenfingers

    G31 buying advice please

    Thanks Jimbo. I concur with your comment about the established car auction houses; through preventing the public from attending live auctions, they and the dealers are enjoying a duopoly of the market and therefore us punters suffer. Supply is outstripped by demand and prices rise to accommodate the imbalance. And yeah, of course you are right about my unrealistic notion of running an M5 as an affordable daily driver, although from a purchase price perspective, the figures could almost be seen to stack up in our current economy!
  12. Greenfingers

    G31 buying advice please

    Thanks for the reply. Yes, car prices in general are stupidly high. Someone blamed it on a microchip shortage from China reducing production rates of new cars. Basically, Covid is to blame for almost everything ATM and it seems that things won't get better for a fair while yet. I previously bought an ex police Mercedes Vito surveillance crew van with well over 100k miles on the clock and it drove superbly, due to the rigorous maintenance - most of the suspension components had been replaced, along with all the other things that tend to wear out. Oh yes, it was a bit shabby, but once I had tarted it up by carpeting the interior and adding a few bits, it made an excellent day van. I am a bit fastidious and get satisfaction from fixing and improving things, so I view an ugly duckling as a good opportunity.
  13. Greenfingers

    Door lock pin rattle - solved

    Same problem with the F07, but it only happens when the pins are in the unlocked position. In settings, I selected 'lock when driving away' and that fixed it for me.
  14. Greenfingers

    G31 buying advice please

    Bracing myself for your reactions now........ Brain says this:- https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202111280019486?model=5 Series&include-delivery-option=on&onesearchad=New&onesearchad=Nearly New&onesearchad=Used&sort=price-asc&year-from=2017&min-engine-power=250&radius=1500&make=BMW&body-type=Estate&year-to=2021&advertising-location=at_cars&postcode=ox298ld&page=1 or this:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324907351105 would be a practical solution. Not very glamorous, I know, but at least I wouldn't be constantly driving to the far end of the car park, in search of that inconvenient double space where you're less likely to get dinged by a chav's door. On the other hand, I've always fancied something like this:- https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202112020151091?fromSavedAds=true&advertising-location=at_cars which would irritate the wife when I needed to borrow her car for practical purposes, but actually on paper looks like a realistic option. 550bhp could massively satisfy my mid-end of life crisis, but is it likely to lead to expensive bills (for the car, not the wife)??
  15. Greenfingers

    G31 buying advice please

    Am I detecting a warm buzz about the G32? I think the 5GT was misinterpreted by pundits who were averse to the bulky looks that made for such a great all round utility vehicle. Actually, I think it was ahead of it's time and now you can see the trend towards this sort of luxury soft road SUV/estate car, as demonstrated by Audi, Mercedes... and my most desired current used car - Tesla Model X. The 6 GT ticks my boxes in a variety of engine forms, but I simply don't want to spend over £25k on something I don't need that won't be used to it's full potential.