Jump to content

adam-

Members
  • Content count

    331
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    N/A

adam- last won the day on December 24 2018

adam- had the most liked content!

About adam-

  • Rank
    Member

Garage

  • Garage
    MK4 Golf GTi (350bhp), E39 Touring 525D

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. adam-

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Lies. I haven't managed 1 month yet.
  2. adam-

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Flatted back all of the surface rust (at least two bits on every panel), zinc primered it and ready for filler. Cut out the rear jack pad. Cut out the front sill and replaced. Tonight will be a rocker cover gasket and a service, tomorrow filler and Friday finish welding. It never ends with this POS.
  3. adam-

    Unplugging the MAF on a 525d

    I had an odd hesitation around 2k. Typically would happen with constant throttle input, going up a hill and the car would upshift. Load would fall and the car would slwo down, needing more throttle input. It's always done it (had vacuum lines, new MAP, new MAF, all healthy). Now I've remapped it it no longer does it at all.
  4. You might get lucky with them too - I did on mine. Literally unbolt and lift out, no issues.
  5. It's just a viscous fan, they are mechanical and just come on with high temps. They're not controlled.
  6. That is your viscous fan. Oil temp > 100.
  7. Remember AIT and outside heat. My oil temp is regularly exceeding 105*C in the Scottish heat (23* outside). These get toasty warm and the tiny FMIC won't help at all. The ECU will cut load request during high AIT.
  8. adam-

    E39 Touring handbrake rebuild?

    I've put new shields (the pins rusted through the old ones), new shoes, new springs, new adjusters, new pins and new retainers. Literally all is replaced except the discs. Still pish. Holds on a hill backwards, barely holds forwards. Will hold it back in drive with a good hoof on the lever but it takes some grunt. Overall, shite.
  9. adam-

    Good/best E39 brake brands

    Mtec are well known and are good. All of what you've mentioned is good and it really doesn't matter. Decide on the type of driving you do. For me, it's some "brisk" backroad stuff, but nothing to warrant an amazing pad, so I'll use a well-known brand but generic stuff.
  10. adam-

    Removing superglue spots?

    They invented superglue remover. https://www.google.com/search?q=sueprglue+remover&rlz=1C1DIMB_enGB785GB785&oq=sueprglue+remover&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.1392j0j0&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  11. If they're sealed they should not have moisture in them.
  12. Those ARB bushes are fine. Why are you doing them?
  13. adam-

    Screenwash - Best Price

    Does it need to be BMW?
  14. adam-

    Pad Wear Sensor connection

    And then deal with loom rot and issues later on? Also, it's very easy to understand why people have them. Do you think anyone that's not a car enthusiast can work out brake pad thickness, if it's acceptable, if they're wearing evenly. It's also not unreasonable to think that people won't want to lean down, hold onto a manky brake dusty wheel and peer in, hopefully seeing pad material and not pad backing plate.
  15. Glad I'm not the only one calling OP out on compression. You sound heated and you're throwing car terms around like you know what you're talking, I can understand why the dealership didn't sound too happy. Also remember they charge premium, they always have. Also understand that you can't check if it's coked unless it's removed or use an inspection camera. How are you going to compression test it? Pull an injector? Still needs a lot of digging to get that far. Also, from your screed of text: BMW said 3 hours, Indy says 2. Hardly a big deal, BMW will be by book, Indy won't be and be a "it's an easy job" remark.
×