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BFleming

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BFleming last won the day on January 26 2021

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About BFleming

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    Hertfordshire

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    2017 VW Golf GTE, 2000 Boxster 2.7, 2004 Suzuki GSXR 750

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  1. I'm not the "you mustn't do it" guy, but just so you know, retrofit HIDs are illegal, so you would need to potentially remove them at MOT time. Some MOT places are fine & just assume they're Xenons (despite the headlight level control knob, the usual giveaway) or they don't care, others less so. The other challenge on the F10 is finding a kit that'll fit & allow you to still get the headlight cover on again afterwards. A bad seal will lead to water ingress, which apart from misty headlights will also fry your headlight control module, which sits in the bottom of each headlight. But, with projector headlights, you will get a very crisp cut-off, and none of the blinding scatter of light you get when fitting HIDs to parabolic reflectors.
  2. I suggested this to the OP 2 weeks ago as it's blatantly the core problem, but he seems to be looking for someone to suggest some other solution. The easiest cheapest solution is the one he needs to implement.
  3. How did you get on with aiming your lights? That's still the only problem I'm seeing, and it's even more obvious looking at the 2 photos - the Merc's cut-off is almost at that sign on the right hand side; the BMW is still 15ft in front of the car & aimed way too low. I've seen the other thread you've created on the same subject asking about reflector headlights - they never existed on the F10, so you can't go down that route. Just get them aimed.
  4. The dipped beam picture above tells me everything I need to know - the lights are simply set way too low. If you're competent enough to set them yourself, go for it. If not, leave it to someone who knows what they're doing. It's a 6mm allen key that's required, and nothing else. It's the white adjuster for the dipped beam, located on the top side of the light, towards the rear: Generally I would use a wall or garage door & a level approach. Drive the car up to the wall/door, and use tape or chalk to mark the level part of the beam. Reverse the car about 7.5m away, and see where the beam ends up. It should be 53mm lower than the original marks, so use that white adjuster & your 6mm allen key to get the beam spot-on. I've seen cars get delivered to customers with very low dipped beams - our Golf as an example. I adjusted them using this method, and they're now actually useful in rural areas!
  5. BMW do indeed state not to use a space saver, but they list one that can be used for "workshop purposes"! Go figure. Older Vauxhalls were 5 x 110mm; the Insignia A (2008 - 2017) was 5 x 120mm like a BMW E & F, but the centre bore is 67.4mm; the BMW is 5 x 120, centre bore is 72.5mm, and offsets are way off. There was a spacesaver available for the E60, that's what I reckon would be closest. The Insignia B (2017 on) is indeed 5 x 115mm, as @Matthew Ashton rightly says above.
  6. He did my E90, F11 and F21. Not sure anyone is better value.
  7. BFleming

    Wheel Spacers for M Sport F10

    Not sure what's controversial about copper grease, but my experience... When I first got my F11 and put my BBS alloys on it, I got some 12mm Bimecc spacers for it. I wire brushed the mating surface, on they went, and no issues. 2 years later I needed to renew the rear discs, and couldn't budge the spacers for love nor money. They came off eventually, but were destroyed in the process. I replaced them, and put a very tiny amount of copper grease on the mating surfaces. They were on for a year, and came straight off by hand - so I'm glad I did it.
  8. BFleming

    Wheel Spacers for M Sport F10

    I've used Bimecc spacers; 12mm and longer bolts; no vibration whatsoever. I used some copper grease to prevent the spacers sticking to the hubs, but you need to be very economical with any copper grease; you don't want to get any on the brake disc.
  9. BFleming

    Upgrade to msport steering wheel

    If you have paddles currently, the new wheel is plug & play. You probably know that already. Your old wheel & airbag will get bought too, £150ish IIRC. I'll fit anything you buy if that helps.
  10. In 2016 I did Italy via Germany & Austria; fantastic journey; you need an Autobahn vignette for Austria, but that was bought at German services near the border. Coming back we did Switzerland (another more expensive Vignette that was controlled at the border) and France. In 2019 I did the south of Spain; French tolls were about £100 each way; Spanish tolls were insignificant by comparison.
  11. You're quite welcome - having gone through a similar process with my own E90 a few years ago I felt your pain! Glad to hear you're sorted anyhow. My charity of choice is https://www.alzheimers.org.uk/ - I'm sure they will appreciate your donation, and that's very generous of you.
  12. Not that I have a F10/F11 any more, nor was it ever a B47 anyhow, hopefully I can help you out a little. Apologies, but this harks back to your original post. RealOEM tells me that your turbocharger has part number 11658570083. A little look on bay for that part number yields the following: Actuator, Hella part number 6NW010430-35 I've had a look at the other B47 turbochargers on Ebay, and from what I can see, the above part number is correct.
  13. There is a setting in the iDrive that allows you to dictate where you want the heat - some people like it on their back, some on their posterior. Go into iDrive and see what you can find.
  14. I used ECU Testing https://www.ecutesting.com/categories/turbo-actuators/ when mine was playing up. Cost about £100 but it came back with a clean bill of health. They're pretty easy to take apart & visually inspect though. ACTronics offer a similar service https://www.actronics.co.uk/actuator. Always note the Hella part number on yours though, and match it 100% if you're describing it to anyone / buying a replacement. They're made by Hella, which is why you get the VW-like part number on them. BMW or the internet will say they're paired to the turbo (which is how they sell them, as you know), and need specialist calibration. Not in my opinion they're not, just plug & play. I ended up selling a spare one I had, as it wasn't actually my actuator that was at fault (ECU error was the culprit), bought by a guy in Australia!!! Mine was the only one he could find.
  15. BFleming

    Retrofitting Paddles to F07N

    2TB is what you should have coded - it gives you more gearbox functionality than 2TE. On Esys & a PIN, I did the lifetime token thing a few years back, and it has worked perfectly since.
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