Boba

@Andrew530dmsport how many miles do you have on the clock? Just interest as to how long the injectors have lasted. 2 weeks seems a long time for a straightforward warranty repair on a 2 year old car.

Don’t disagree with either you or @83C however I haven’t owned a car in the last 20 years which dropped below the min mark on the stick between services (around 5-6000 miles/annum,typically) Including my 528i which was on around 120k miles IIRC. I’m sure most manufacturers publish figures which exaggerate reality just to guard against the occasional Monday car but TBH if I ever got close to a litre every 1000 miles I’d get shot pronto! After all we’re talking about state of the art motors here.

+1 my view too.

My first thoughts are that BMW are doing you OK really. Fixing the yellow grommet issue immediately they were made aware, arranging the car pickup etc. I assume the bumper scratching issue will be sorted out too - par for the course for contractors to try it on, just hold out for a proper repair - BMW can hit the contractor harder than you can. Hard to comment without seeing. Again, a chip on the paintwork might be expected on a 2011 car, AUC cars aren’t guaranteed perfect as ex works after all. My opinion FWIW is that it’s how BMW deal with the issues that matters most, rather than having any issues on a used car to begin with. your opinion of course is likely to be different .

Only ever heard of Radweld for that. Actually even used that once l o n g ago. Silver Seal is from https://autosmart.co.uk/ but they tend to sell through the trade only. Seems to have been around a while, lots of web/forum references, but predates the various nano-whatnots. I see on their site that the Pyramid product only promises 2 years. I’d prefer more if possible as I intend to keep for a while (probably my last IC engine). Not really bothered by the product cost as the man’s time will dominate anyway. Do you wax on top?

Oh really??? Even my Hillman Minx some 50-something years ago which left a blue fog behind it when you accelerated didn’t burn as much as that! These days I only expect to go about from max to min on the stick between oil changes.

I’ve been thinking about getting a hard coating of some sort. Poor choice of detailers around here as it’s a bit rural and allied to the detailer needing much of a day I’m pretty well stuck for choice. Nearest one offers ‘Silver Seal’. Anyone know anything good or bad? Anyone used it? It seems that on the various forums you can get almost any opinion about any product so I guess you just take a chance whatever. What would be a good price to get my (pretty good condition, 2 years old now) G31 clayed and coated? How long should I leave it before getting it waxed afterwards?

18” winter Goodyear runonflats were good for me. Fine grip, gave lots of confidence on wet and frosty roads though no snow this year. Swapped back a couple of weeks ago to 19” staggered Pirelli runonflats for the summer and tbh I don’t notice much difference in the ride. Some folk seem to see major differences but to me aside from grippiness the top brands are just tyres. Low mileages so tyres last me a while and I see no point in experimenting with non-RoFs.

Another possibility if you have your key in your trouser pocket is pressing a button on it when you bend down. Done that too often enough. Still think it’s your foot operating it though.

Must say that I don't find that - just raising my foot more or less under the nearest bit of the centre of the bumper is enough to operate it reliably. Actually I used to set it going just by brushing past the back of the car on my way to the bin before I realised and left a bit more room between it and the garage doors. Probably some variation between cars though. You’ll likely find that your heel tucks under a bit as you take your shoe off - mine does anyway.

I know exactly what you mean. I used to sit in the boot to change my golfing shoes in my previous cars but this one likes to try to grab me . What’s happening of course is that you’re waving a foot around in the bumper area which is one way of opening/shutting the boot. It’s a bit of a weak point that there’s no sensor there to prevent it hitting an obstruction (your head). Don’t know anything about coding it out. What I do is to leave my key in my caddy car pocket far enough away that it’s inoperative. I think the caddy car screens it a bit too. I do a quick test before sitting down. <edit> I see that @nashdm2 has the same diagnosis </edit>

I tend to take people who bad-mouth their previous employers with a pinch of salt. Maybe somewhere out there someone is bad-mouthing them in turn. Free advice is worth what it costs you. Personally speaking I’ve had the best of service from my local BMW franchise.

Well the first thing is to find out what it is/was. You should just tell the shop that it was fine when they got it in, it’s throwing a fault now they’ve returned it and you want them to tell you what’s gone wrong. Straightforward and they should diagnose it for free of course as it wasn’t there when they got it. Polite but firm. Paying depends on the result. If it turns out to be a coincidental unassociated fault after all then yes of course. If they’ve dislodged something then no (and they won’t tell you ).

I never believe coincidences like this. Cars run for months without problems, too suspicious to get a fault days after someone’s had their hands in amongst it.

Nope, US thread, it’s at front offside beneath the dash. See here as per @sjak92‘s post earlier