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M635uk

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M635uk last won the day on April 12 2020

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About M635uk

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    E34 535ise

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  1. M635uk

    Exhaust options.

    Try these guys, they don’t quote now for a 535 system but I am sure they can supply. It was mild steel and cheap and worked. I actually sold mine on for the same price I bought it when I swapped for the Fritz system. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/carexhaust#tab1
  2. M635uk

    Exhaust options.

    I have the Fritz full system on my 535i together with high compression flat top pistons, lightened single mass e24 flywheel, Alpina cam and Alpina chip. I haven’t done a rolling road though. It’s a very torquey engine but no rocket ship. Its a good system that will last decades, expensive yes, but all decent stainless steel exhausts will be expensive. You can get a full system minus manifold for about £125 delivered from Poland. I did that initially to get me going but I had a bent valve with that system on ( hence the upgrade to Alpina spec) so I can hardly compare. the Fritz system is fairly loud at idle and continues in that vain through the Rev range. At the top end it becomes raspy for the final 750rpm (like the e46 m3’s when they first came out), which is nice and lets people know you are “on it”. The middle box outer shell did split on me though and a large crack developed. I have welded this up though. trust this helps i would recommend the system.
  3. Like I said it may not help as my mods were for a 3.5 to start off with, but they were given to provide some ideas that might help. You seem to dismiss all the suggestions that are offered to you so good luck with your search for more power, although that might be pointless.
  4. Here is what I did, don’t know if it helps as it was a 535 not a 530. 3.5 block honed the bores, M535i pistons re-ringed (bumps compression), later head slight port and polish, Alpina B10 Camshaft, Alpina ecu chip, fritzs full system and manifold, light weight single mass flywheel conversion, again from an early m30 e28 engine. Slotted the camshaft sprocket (I would recommend this anyway) and then timed the cam in to perfection. Above parts supplied by Fritz. Result - biggest improvement is in torque, it will pull really well from low down and continues up to about 5500 rpm when it starts to fall off. It will not rev out well though, seems to be a feature of the m30, but I am happy with how it drives. It’s a 5 speed manual with a 3.45 diff. I will change the diff to a 3.73 or even a 3.91 if I can find one. So my advice would be to start with the 3.5 block, can you not bore yours out to create a 3.5? Then pistons cam etc. the m30 is a nice reliable unit, but it’s never going to be anything special. I can only compare with my M635 which I had for 15 years and modified the engine to 315 bhp, it revs completely differently to the normal m30 and would pull all the way to 7200rpm, very addictive and a stunning sound track!
  5. Also carefully clean MAF internals with brake cleaner. with your car being a 95 will it have an Oxygen sensor? That could be bad also.
  6. Hi, I would say they are unusual results. I assume you removed the plug for the ICV and the TPS separately? Removing the hose to the ICV creates a massive air leak so no surprise the engine cut out. Removing the TPS connector result is interesting as it indicates it’s a control problem only at idle as the ECU will then think the throttle is in the open position with the connector removed.. Have you cleaned the ICV with brake cleaner? They can get gunked up, also are you sure the two temp sensors are connected the correct way round? On the M30 engine it’s easy to get them the wrong way round resulting in an erratic idle, but I don’t know if that’s possible on the M43 engine. Also see link below which may be helpful, it’s M30 biased but the principles are the same. http://bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/888395
  7. M635uk

    Abs issue 535i se

    Update on my abs problems. replaced both relays and the ecu. Jumped the pump and it works fine. When I brake hard the front wheels will lock and the abs will not operate. If I come off the brakes slightly I can feel the abs modulating and it seems to work fine. But on initial full braking force the wheels just lock and stay locked unless I come off the brakes.. So I believe I have proven that the system works (I never get the abs light coming on indicating a fault, and it comes and on and off as you start the engine) but suspect the valve block is fault/worn/blocked. So I have an identical block to swap out to prove it!
  8. Disconnecting the AFM does give the result you describe, but remember the AFM is simply measuring air flow and is unlikely to cause the issue you describe. The more likely issue will be either unmetered air coming into the system (air leak) or the idle control valve playing up. So I would disconnect the idle control valve connector and see what that does. It will cause the ICV to close but remain in a fixed position. If that stabilises the idle (even at a low or high level) then it is telling us something. The idle control valve does not react to the AFM. It reacts to the throttle position sensor, so maybe an issue with that but you have tested it. re vacuum booster pipe, that is a possible route for air ingress but you say you have renewed this. so best to carry on testing so you can provide more info. Thanks
  9. M635uk

    Diff upgrade Alpina spec engine

    I could of course swap a 3.91 210mm gear set into mine, just difficult finding a 3.91 diff or gear set anywhere in 210mm size. To complicate things further my diff is actually a 215mm version although I believe I can fit a 210mm gear set into a 215 unit. I think later 735’s and 535’s use the 188mm diff, which will not fit a 210mm case of course. The search continues. But an lsd unit swap is a good idea too. Thanks, Ian
  10. Sounds like you have an air leak on the inlet side, if it’s big enough if confuses the hell out of the idle control valve which can’t maintain a steady position, it flys open then shut. This was a symptom for an air leak I had on my 535 on the inlet manifold to head connection, although the idle range for me was even higher!
  11. M635uk

    Diff upgrade Alpina spec engine

    Maybe stay with the open diff then! Or a proper LSD. Thanks.
  12. Hi, looking to upgrade my 215 3.45 large case diff to a 3.91 210 large case diff in my e34 535i. Can be an open diff or lsd, I believe auto e34 535i’s and e32 735 autos had them. who has one? PM me please thanks, Ian
  13. Afternoon. planning on tracking my 535 so looking to upgrade my diff ratio from standard 3.45 to 3.91 (or possibly 3.73) to get more acceleration from my 535i Alpina Spec e34. Don’t mind an open diff as I plan to fit the “racing diffs” LSD conversion which seem reasonably priced at 234 euros. only problem is trying to track down a suitable diff. My 535 is an early 1988 one so comes with a 215 large case diff. Would I be right in thinking auto 535’s and 735’s came with a large case 210 3.91 diff? And does anyone have one going spare! thanks. Ian
  14. M635uk

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Fitted B8 bilstein inserts to the front with new top mounts. Had to sleeve the mounts as they were supplied as 16mm diameter, but the bilstein are 14mm. What a massive improvement, yes the original boge shocks were knackered but the front end feels much better now. I will either slot the top mounts or buy some camber plates to get a bit more camber as turn in is not that sharp. Also fitted a small rear boot lip spoiler all the way from Lithuania. Cheap at £25 and I am really pleased with the results, suits a white car well. Cheers for now. Ian
  15. M635uk

    What have you done on your E34 Today

    Polished the toys today.
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