Jump to content

THe39M5

Members
  • Content count

    88
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    N/A

About THe39M5

  • Rank
    Newbie

Garage

  • Garage
    E39 M5 2001. E90 325i 2006. E91 325iT 2005.

Recent Profile Visitors

509 profile views
  1. THe39M5

    Folding mirrors stopped folding all of a sudden.

    As I understand it the switchpack is indeed the drivers door module. If it was gear or motor related I would expect one mirror to still work, or at least throw a code for overcurrent or open circuit or similar. I've not come across this before so anything else would be guesswork really. Does DIS have a test schedule somewhere in the function selection menus? I have found loads of tests in there if you dig around.
  2. THe39M5

    Door wont open

    If it is the driver's door then try unlocking with the key in the lock instead of using the button. Can be a bit stiff to turn as never used.
  3. THe39M5

    MAF issue? (e39)

    Another issue that gets quite a lot of internet coverage is oiled type (e.g. K&N) air filters are bad news for these MAFs and cause early performance issues. I'm fairly sure BMW let enough air in with the two air boxes without having to resort to aftermarket bits.
  4. THe39M5

    Folding mirrors stopped folding all of a sudden.

    The diagrams suggest the GM3 can signal the door module to fold them but the push button itself has a direct link to the door module. That would perhaps suggest it is more likely door module related. The door module has an overload protection of some sort as mine will stop working for a long while if I keep folding and unfolding them many times. It does self-reset though. What have you used to check for codes? You will need something BMW specific to see codes from the door modules (via the 'ZKE' central body electronics network).
  5. THe39M5

    MAF issue? (e39)

    When you reset the adaptations you wiped out all the 'fine tuning' that the DME does to account for aging sensors and general tolerances. It will take a few miles of running like crap to adapt back enough to be smooth again and then many tens of miles to get it 'tuned back in' fully. The basic process on these BMW's is the short term trims ('Lambda Integrators') adjust rapidly to adjust the fuel going in to give the correct air/fuel ratio detected at the 02 sensors. When they are above or below 1.0 this gradually adjusts the long term trims (additive and multiplicative) to suit aging sensors etc. In normal conditions the fuel trims have adapted slowly over time and the lambda integrators only move a little around 1.0 but since you introduced a huge step change by resetting it they will sometimes go off-scale. That throws a 144 and/or 145 code. Drive for a while with the MAFS connected to get it back to where it wants to be, even if things aren't perfect. This could take many tens of miles and the 145 code should go away after a while. Then see what issues the fuel trims point to. Unplugging the MAFS masks most of the fuel related error checking which is why the 145 went away. It runs without using the trims and uses default fuel tables. It will not adapt with them unplugged either. Plug them in and drive it to get it back to where it was before the reset. The MAFS on these are prone to aging and may well be a problem but let the trims settle down before further testing. Do a search for E39 M5 MAF test and you should find one of the ways of checking them at redline in third gear on your private road. The air flow figure at idle is shown in INPA and is another guide to their health, once the trims have settled. The version of INPA I have used has a button marked 'adaptions' with no other explanation. One click and it resets everything without a warning or confirmation! I have fallen for the same thing at least twice...
  6. THe39M5

    What's going on with my headlights?

    Halogen ones have the manual adjustment 'thumbwheel' by the light switch and xenon ones have the automatic system as they can cause more dazzle when pointing too high. As d_a_n1979 said, all break equally well as the plastic parts that hold the reflector/lens parts are similar and drop to pieces with age. If you can lift the headlight internals up and down easily by gently moving the bulb connectors on the back then those plastic parts have collapsed. You can buy plastic or metal replacements online for very little money. Early facelift lights are bonded together with a sealant that softens with a little time in the oven(!) so that they can be opened to fix them. Later ones have a sealant that doesn't soften so those have to be fixed using small tools through the various bulb holder openings.
  7. THe39M5

    The E39 First World Problems thread

    That damn ski bag that suddenly erupts into the cabin and slaps you round the head as you accelerate past 60 with all the windows open. And that's even with the centre seat belt threaded through the armrest How the hell does anyone manage to fold it back up properly either!? Grr.
  8. THe39M5

    E39 M5 Mysterious Clicking Noise

    The centre UJ is staked in so not an easy replacement. A propshaft specialist quoted to recondition the whole thing by cutting the centre joint out and welding a new one in complete with new spline joint. That work together with new CV joint, centre bearing and flex disc etc. came to within a couple of hundred of a complete new one from BMW. I decided to go for the new one as I knew I would be getting the exact parts all assembled and balanced.
  9. THe39M5

    E39 M5 Mysterious Clicking Noise

    A few possibilities: Is it a short series of metallic clicks, like tick tick tick? That can be the prop CV joint balls falling as it goes round and making noise due to being dried out. Easy to spot on a ramp. The CV joint is the one at the diff nose. Is it a tinny 'clink' or 'chink' sort of sound, just as power is applied? Mine went 'ker-clink' sort of! That can be the prop centre UJ (mine was) or possibly wear in the centre splined joint. This was very difficult to get to the bottom of and wear in the UJ was only obvious once the prop was completely removed. I replaced the complete prop assembly as one new balanced item from BMW. Not cheap but took a huge amount of shunt out of the drive line even though each component part was only a little worn. It also made the car perfectly vibration free on the motorway. Some people report replacing the centre bearing fixed a similar sound, and others that it didn't fix the sound. That could actually be down to the splined joint being split and reassembled rather than the noise being the support bearing itself. Other sources of noises like that are failing rubber exhaust mounts half way along the transmission tunnel. They also can make a light knock. The originals were red in colour. They have been updated to black ones with extra material in them to better support the weight of the exhaust. Otherwise as gbrownings said, it could well be things that get loaded up as you pull away like those metal exhaust brackets by the gearbox. They can get very rusty and crack right through. Good luck with the search. The M Tech specialist in Bristol I visit for servicing very kindly put the car up on a lift with a person inside applying power in first and then reverse over and over with the handbrake on. Stood underneath we quickly found the sound was coming from the propshaft. They ring like a bell and amplify the slightest thing.
  10. THe39M5

    E39 Touring Subframe Bushes

    I found the back end crashes a bit over bumps and there is just a 'disconnected' kind of feeling as the car settles into a corner. I did mine at 120k miles / 15 years old but I suspect they were toast a long time before that. I think age plays a part as they were well perished and the fluid had leaked out long ago. The OE ones are fluid damped! If you jack the car up using the sill jacking points the weight of the subframe pulls them down a little. You might then be able to see into the top of them with a camera phone. Any cracks or perished rubber will be fairly obvious. I could see mine were bad just by looking in on the MOT man's ramp.
  11. THe39M5

    E39 Touring Subframe Bushes

    From memory: Support very safely on decent stands. You will be heaving on big fasteners in a sideways direction. Wheels off. Disconnect two height sensors (can be a fiddle). Support subframe under middle of diff (not its back cover) with jack. Remove subframe bolts. *Recommended option at this point is replace each bolt as you do it with a length of studding so that the frame is guided as you lower it.* Lower about 40mm. Remove / fit bushes (I used washing up liquid and water to lubricate the new ones). Lift subframe back. Refit and torque down the bolts. Plug in sensors. Refit wheels. Enjoy a surprising improvement to the handling and refinement! *Some people highly recommend getting the 4 long lengths of studding and nuts so that when you take a bolt out of each mount you replace it with a stud. Fit the nut around 40mm down the stud under each mounting. When you lower the subframe the mounting points stay perfectly aligned. I didn't do this trick and it took me ages to get the frame to line up properly when lifting it back up as they are not well balanced on the jack.* All cables and hoses other than the height sensors were easily long enough on my car to stay in place during this procedure. The exhaust is a bit close on the 528iT but I didn't need to undo anything.
  12. THe39M5

    Heaters very hot...

    I’m sure the valves are the most likely candidate and sensible money on the 6 cylinder cars. The V8 ones have an integral pump and are around £400!
  13. THe39M5

    Heaters very hot...

    Does the outside temperature display show a sensible reading on the cluster? If that is broken it can cause odd issues. Might say -40 if open circuit. Just trying to eliminate a few possible issues. edit: that can also stop the aircon working so perhaps unlikely the more I think about it.
  14. THe39M5

    Heaters very hot...

    Do the screen vents stop blowing when you set the air to just middle and floor on the three ‘manual’ buttons?
  15. THe39M5

    Rough m5

    Getting those fuel trims back to where they were before you reset them is key to diagnosing so much. It is difficult to rule out a simple air leak without seeing fuel trims. What are they at present? Do you have any record of the MAF sensors being replaced? They are a known weak point and can cause hesitation / rough running issues. If you feel you need to strip the top down then yes it is a good time to do the other sensors. At least you then have a good baseline for further diagnostics. The usual 'money no object parts cannon' m5board plan of attack on an unknown M5 is MAFs, vanos solenoid service, cam sensors, pre-cat O2 sensors, fuel filter. I have always erred towards diagnostics rather than parts cannon but that's just my preference!
×