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THe39M5 last won the day on October 18

THe39M5 had the most liked content!

About THe39M5

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    E39 M5 2001. E90 325i 2006. E91 325iT 2005.

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  1. THe39M5

    E39 manual gear change notchiness ?

    On further reading the ZF 5th gear issue is on 528 and 530 models according to the service bulletin.
  2. THe39M5

    E39 manual gear change notchiness ?

    Not sure which gearboxes are affected but my 2000 year 528i manual had a sticky detent plunger bushing that made selecting 5th feel notchy when pushing the gear lever over to the right from its centre position. When cold the detent plunger would actually stick completely for the first 10 minutes of driving leaving the gear lever with no spring return to centre from the 5th gear position. Once warm it would release with a click and then be okay, but still notchy. Most annoying, however there is a simple fix for this (new plastic sleeve the detent plunger slides in). Unfortunately this requires the box to be dropped. I always promised I would fix it as soon as it needed a clutch. The original clutch out lived the rest of the car at 180k miles so it never got done!
  3. Why would the heater valves be the actual cause of a drain? If current is flowing through those while it is asleep then it is because the module that drives them is making that happen. I believe they are just solenoid valves without active electronics. The wiring diagram shows the live supply is switched by the module so they can only draw current if the module applies a voltage. Can you confirm you are doing all these checks once it is fully asleep? If it hasn't gone to sleep then there may well be a small residual current in many circuits that is normally there. You are looking to reduce the 0.74A it is drawing in sleep mode to around 0.04A, not reduce the 1.18A it is drawing while 'idle but not yet asleep' or have I missed something in your description?
  4. THe39M5

    E39 short shift gear lever, best option?

    You should be able to move a heat shield and then get in there without dropping the propshaft or exhaust. It's tight but feasible. That bush actually fits down from the top inside the car. It rotates in the metal housing to allow it to then be levered out. You then remove the gear lever upwards so that the bush comes off the lever. I found the hardest bit was getting the rubber boot device to fit back into the tunnel.
  5. THe39M5

    E39 interior choices.

    I'm now struggling to unsee some of those colour choices.
  6. To put oil leak costs into perspective, a valve cover gasket and bolt seals for the M52 / M54 is what, around £50 all in for genuine parts and takes an hour at most? The oil filter housing gasket is cheap and takes a couple of hours. The only minor leak I ever left was the sump gasket, that's doable in an afternoon at minimal cost apparently. All satisfying jobs, should last years and when you start the job you don't think 'but what will go horribly wrong once the shops shut?!'. I miss doing jobs like that. (Sad, I know). A pair of valve cover gaskets on the N62 is around £300 even in aftermarket crap parts and takes a day and a half of constant swearing. I don't miss jobs like that! A manual 530i touring with M54 could be great value over extended ownership. At least the E60 generation cars are less rust prone (my 645 was mint underneath).
  7. I had a 645ci that sadly put me off everything about this generation. The oil leak situation is all too true and while I wasn't fixing those I was spending too many hours trying to track down gremlins with the electronics. I know all cars get to a certain age and need attention, I'm not unrealistic, but every E39 I have owned has been a far better long term car. The V8 is fab when it is working and not dropping fluids / blowing smoke but they do not do high miles very gracefully. Do not underestimate the crazy cost of fixing the oil leaks. A 108k miles car is well into that territory. I have had much better luck with the N52 straight sixes in my two 325i daily cars. Short runs create the occasional valve lifter rattle but that soon clears. The later N53 comes with some problems related to DI fuel injectors / high pressure fuel pump / NOx sensor etc.. Both are amazingly economical though when driven with care, plus they are smooth, responsive and sound sweet. If I were to get an E61 it would be a 530 with an M54 or N52 lump. If you need to enjoy a V8 then the 550i will not disappoint as a well sorted one will be fast and well planted, but go in with the knowledge it will dish out very large and frequent bills to keep it tidy if it hasn't already been fully refreshed with oil seals and gaskets.
  8. THe39M5

    1999 523i smoking

    It almost sounds like there is a load of water in the exhaust but videos are never the greatest thing to identify sounds. Perhaps safely raise the front end to see if more water gets blasted out? I'm not sure how your catch can system works, but running without the oil cap on would usually cause uneven idling issues through unmetered air getting in. Worn valve stem seals usually cause smoke after a long idle or extended engine breaking down a hill. It is more a puff of smoke when they first start to go. Having said that, it is unusual for this engine to suffer that issue. They leak externally for fun though... As said above, it could do with a proper run after having sat for so long before you start looking deeper.
  9. THe39M5

    m54b30 fuel consumption

    So economy was okay but has got worse, idle is rough and there is an increase in what could be the hydrocarbons reading. High HC could be due to poor combustion on that rough idle, which could be a number of things. Most common are air leaks in the rubber intake tubes / elbows between the MAF and throttle body, which can be fairly well hidden splits or cracks. I've heard there are some form of plugs / bungs in the back of the intake manifold that can end up damaged and leak air. The crank case breathing system is also prone to failing which can cause odd issues. This is checked by feeling how much vacuum there is when opening the oil filler cap. Do a search on these subjects as there's plenty of info about on them. I'm not sure either would affect the economy drastically though so you should check the fuel trims and for codes that could point to MAF or O2 sensors. Have you had a chance to see if the new thermostat has improved it? A failed thermostat could be the cause, or certainly wouldn't help.
  10. THe39M5

    m54b30 fuel consumption

    Just to be clear, the actual fuel economy is good but the computer shows a low figure for its calculated consumption? Did the cluster get coded to know which engine it is working with? There are different settings for each engine if I remember correctly. That could also account for the temperature gauge being off. The gauge reading is heavily 'buffered' and is little more than a three position indicator of cold/ok/toast but it may be related to coding. What were the emissions results and are you able to read the fuel trims? Without that info it will all be guesswork on the emissions problem. What is wrong? CO, HC, Lambda or a combination? Sorry for the stack of questions but without that kind of info you will just end up firing parts at it.
  11. THe39M5

    E39 M5 exhaust manifold seals

    There are only the two. One of each pair of joints has some room to slide and uses the gasket to clamp around the pipe section. The other is a direct bolt together joint, which should be done up first so that it is tight together and only then do up the other one to compress the gasket around its pipe.
  12. THe39M5

    E39 M5 - steering vibration on braking

    Could be a sticking caliper, even just dirty guide pins and pad ends can make them drag enough to start building an uneven pad deposition on the disc surface. I had the same issue. I replaced the arms and it masked it a little. The disc run-out measured fine too, so I cleaned the brake sliding surfaces and the issue soon cleared.
  13. THe39M5

    Removing plenum e39 M5

    Life just gets in the way of these things. How are you finding the F10 M5? I'm bored with my daily E90 and need something a bit more exciting again.
  14. As above. Plus, if the driver's door lock refuses to turn you should also be able to unlock the boot with the key, full twist clockwise (carefully). Once in the boot the battery can be accessed directly. I make a deliberate point of using both locks with the key every month or two as they do get tight through lack of use.
  15. THe39M5

    E39 DDE 4.0 DIY Tuning

    That's excellent news if you have made a diesel smell of mint! I jest, fair play for digging into the fueling maps. I've always been interested in the technicalities of how DME/DDE cope with so may variables, but I daren't start fiddling!