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THe39M5

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THe39M5 last won the day on July 4 2020

THe39M5 had the most liked content!

About THe39M5

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    E39 M5 2001. E90 325i 2006. E91 325iT 2005.

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  1. What was the oil level before you topped it up? Was it very low? It is tricky to tell how much oil was coming out by the photographs alone. It might not be related to the main problem unless you have found a major leak. The video sounds grim but phone videos often exaggerate harsh noises. I wouldn’t be running it without at least getting it checked over by someone familiar with the S62. It would be easy to misdiagnose this based on what I can hear in the video. If the sound is metallic harsh rattling at the front then taking the lower oil pan off would be a good way of checking the health of the timing chain guides. They drop dark brown plastic in the sump when they break up. If it is a loud rattling at cylinder head level then take an air intake tube off and look for lots of oil in the plenum. Blocked or badly leaking vanos solenoids can cause too much oil to flow back into their drain tube and it backs up into the plenum causing rough running and oil smoke plus noisy vanos units. Pleae appreciate it is tricky to diagnose these issues remotely.
  2. Check to see if one of the high pressure vanos oil lines has burst. They run at 100+ bar and fire oil out a distance if they let go. It could shoot oil in any direction and would leave the vanos system without pressure. That would result in rough running and loud tapping / rattling noises as the vanos pistons knock against the ends of their cylinders. The oil lines are the braided pipes that come off a metal distribution piece around the centre of the front of the engine above the water pump / thermostat housing. There are three: one to each vanos unit and one to the pressure accumulator to the right of the distribution piece. The distribution piece is the vanos pressure regulator. If it looks like one is leaking be very careful not to get anywhere near these components with the engine running as a leak of oil at that pressure is very hazardous.
  3. Did you check the engine oil level after all this? Was it power steering fluid or engine oil over the filter housings? A power steering pump run dry makes horrendous noises and could add a lot of drag if damaged. If it is engine oil then it will take some work to see how much damage was done, assuming it drained enough to affect oil pressure. Hope this turns out not too bad.
  4. THe39M5

    ECU fault codes

    There is a thin and fragile vacuum line along the edge of the valve cover that goes to the secondary air system valve above the exhaust manifold. That might have been damaged. It may only be under vacuum while the system is running at start up but if the solenoid valve leaks due to age it would draw air all the time.
  5. THe39M5

    Fuel gauge forzen near the "tank empty" mark

    Do a search for e39 secret menu. You can access a diagnostics feature on the instrument cluster. Test number two drives all the gauges through their full movement and would show any issue with the cluster itself. The more useful test feature is one of the tests shows the measured level in each side of the tank. They should be roughly equal when the car has sat for some time. When the car runs the return fuel from the filter is used to suck fuel from the left side to the right. It should be around 2 litres a minute, roughly, and the left side should empty across to the right. If it doesn’t it might explain why the gauge barely moves after adding a small amount of fuel. That can be caused by a problem with the ‘sucking jet pump’ in the left half of the tank. And whatever you do, don’t brim the tank and then try to open either of the sender / pump ports! You will have a lot of fuel on the floor.
  6. THe39M5

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    And so it was done! It drives straight as an arrow and the steering wheel is perfectly centred (which always fits well with my OCD issues). The turn-in feels just right as well. Very pleased!
  7. THe39M5

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Just achieved its 9th consecutive totally clean sheet MOT in my ownership! I had to take it out in the rain though!! It’s back in the warmed garage now. Phew. It’s booked in for a full alignment tomorrow by a BMW specialist with the correct weights, know-how and a Hunter system.
  8. THe39M5

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Out with the old, in with the new. Rear track control arms today. I fully expected the bolts to be seized in the bushes and the ball joint nuts to bind up but no, all plain sailing! I will be getting it correctly aligned as the next journey. There isn’t much room to get at the nuts on the inner ends, especially once the hub is raised to ‘normal height’ for the final tightening.
  9. THe39M5

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    I’ve had a manual 528i touring and a manual 525i saloon. Both cars were on their first clutch / dmf and both were on moon miles (170k). They were very fuel efficient being able to easily do a genuine 38mpg on longer runs, including the start from cold. I think the overall cost of owning one is almost certainly less than the auto version. It’s a shame they are as rare as hens’ teeth as I would have another in a heartbeat.
  10. THe39M5

    DSC compressor

    I haven’t had the need to go in that deep but yes, you will need to use the brake bleeding sequence in DIS or ISTA.
  11. THe39M5

    DSC ABS strange behaviour

    Soft / failed arm bushings can trip the ABS at low speed in odd ways. I have had that on an E39 528i and an E91 325i. A small imperfection on the road under braking would result in the ABS releasing the brake and it wouldn’t hold up the pedal. You had to push a lot further or release and brake again to get out of it. Not exactly confidence inspiring! I can’t say for sure if the V8 is affected in the same way with the arms running the other direction in the subframe but it’s a possibility.
  12. So that car has had one documented service in twenty years before Sytner got it!? How did it sell at that price? I have had mine only do 2000 miles between inspection 2 services, which is probably a bit overkill, but I always thought evidence of frequent servicing was paramount if you ever wanted to sell in such a picky market.
  13. THe39M5

    V8 Drag Link / Centre Tie Rod.

    I would like to think it will last 20 years like the old one but as I do about 1000 miles a year it should outlive me by a century or so. I read about a problem batch from a few years ago which might have been responsible for some early failures. There was a range of date codes involved and mine isn’t in that range.
  14. THe39M5

    Track rods / ends

    I did a complete idler arm with bushing when I did the centre track rod. It wasn’t expensive and the thought of trying to press the bushing out/in wasn’t worth the potential agro.
  15. THe39M5

    V8 Drag Link / Centre Tie Rod.

    I got my TRW one from GSF. They are OE and very sensible price with the usual 60% off discount.
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