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THe39M5 last won the day on July 4 2020

THe39M5 had the most liked content!

About THe39M5

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    E39 M5 2001. E90 325i 2006. E91 325iT 2005.

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  1. THe39M5

    DSC ABS strange behaviour

    Soft / failed arm bushings can trip the ABS at low speed in odd ways. I have had that on an E39 528i and an E91 325i. A small imperfection on the road under braking would result in the ABS releasing the brake and it wouldn’t hold up the pedal. You had to push a lot further or release and brake again to get out of it. Not exactly confidence inspiring! I can’t say for sure if the V8 is affected in the same way with the arms running the other direction in the subframe but it’s a possibility.
  2. So that car has had one documented service in twenty years before Sytner got it!? How did it sell at that price? I have had mine only do 2000 miles between inspection 2 services, which is probably a bit overkill, but I always thought evidence of frequent servicing was paramount if you ever wanted to sell in such a picky market.
  3. THe39M5

    V8 Drag Link / Centre Tie Rod.

    I would like to think it will last 20 years like the old one but as I do about 1000 miles a year it should outlive me by a century or so. I read about a problem batch from a few years ago which might have been responsible for some early failures. There was a range of date codes involved and mine isn’t in that range.
  4. THe39M5

    Track rods / ends

    I did a complete idler arm with bushing when I did the centre track rod. It wasn’t expensive and the thought of trying to press the bushing out/in wasn’t worth the potential agro.
  5. THe39M5

    V8 Drag Link / Centre Tie Rod.

    I got my TRW one from GSF. They are OE and very sensible price with the usual 60% off discount.
  6. THe39M5

    Ball joint splitters

    I have never found enough room to get a ball joint splitter in there without loosening the pinch bolt and sliding the strut upwards by at least an inch. It could be done with a fork type splitter but they are a bit brutal for use on alloy hub carriers. The taper joints are nearly always damn tight. Be sure to get the tool to support the back of the steel insert that is meant to stay firmly in the alloy hub carrier. Some people accidentally push those out still stuck fast to the taper on the ball joint.
  7. THe39M5

    E39 M5, replacing front coil springs.

    Apparently there are more detailed lists/tables of springs that aren't accessible through RealOEM but are to the dealer network. I read somewhere that springs are available in a variety of ratings suited to the exact equipment list on the vehicle. I'm sure I read that in a BMW document rather than internet lore. I too would go with dealer supplied ones. You should get a reasonable discount from Cotswold on here. Otherwise you are likely to end up with something that isn't quite the real deal but someones generic 'M Sport' spring. You need to: Disconnect the ride height sensor linkage. Release the ABS sensor cable from its supports, I think it can remain connected. Disconnect the track rod end from the hub carrier (or the hub carrier won't flex down enough for the strut to clear the wing). Remove and support the brake caliper and pad wear sensor (bracket and disc stay in place). Remove the pinch bolt and the anti-roll bar link bracket. Carefully spread the 'pinch' of the hub carrier using a thin wedge (BFO screwdriver) or the special tool until you can rotate the strut in the hub carrier. Undo the three top mount nuts. Protect the wing edge very carefully. Stand on the hub and lever it all down and out from under the wing. Twist and slide the strut from out of the hub carrier. You might need to loosen the subframe fixings on the two remaining suspension arms so that they allow the hub to swivel down enough to get the strut to clear the wing. If you do, they must only be torqued back up with the suspension lifted to normal ride height, or you will destroy the bushes.
  8. THe39M5

    A newstrange noise...any thoughts?

    DIS is the old dealership diagnostics program. It’s old tech now but very effective for E39 age cars.
  9. THe39M5

    A newstrange noise...any thoughts?

    I’m not sure if the e-box fan runs on after the engine stops but it might for a few seconds as the DME stays active for a shutdown self-test cycle after you switch off. The small air sampling fan in the air con panel definitely runs on for a while when you turn it off. The one in my ex 528i twittered away to itself for some time even with the keys out. The sintered bearings in the e-box fan motor can be improved with some oil but it is a bit of a job to get to it. Part of the joy of nine plus years of owning one of these cars is you get to do these jobs, twice! You can manually activate the e-box fan using DIS if you have it. One other thought is it could perhaps be one of the air flap motors in the aircon system. You can trigger those easily with the air direction buttons and recirculate function.
  10. THe39M5

    A newstrange noise...any thoughts?

    Could be the e-box fan. Its air intake is behind the glovebox and it makes a sound like that when its motor bearings are drying out. It runs for a few seconds at start up, goes off and then comes on later when the DME needs cooling. There is also a tiny fan in the HVAC unit control that can tweet away like that. Other than those the main blower motor in the HVAC system can make similar noises but that is easy to rule out by switching it off.
  11. James and Luke at Redish Motorsport / Automotive have been servicing my M5 for many years with great care and attention to detail. Nice group of genuine enthusiasts who really look after the car when in their care. Underbody repairs are one of their specialities.
  12. THe39M5


    You say ‘turn to the left’? Perhaps this is just a wording kind of thing but do you mean anti-clockwise? The driver’s door lock on a UK car unlocks clockwise. Turn 45 degrees clockwise to unlock electrically and if the battery is toast you turn a full 90 degrees clockwise to unlock just that door. It takes a firm twist to move that extra 45 degrees. Turning anti-clockwise locks it, and it only turns 45 degrees that way.
  13. Ouch. May I ask what the parts came to?
  14. THe39M5

    HELP! No heat only cold ambient air.....

    If the valves are shut that would stop warm water flowing to them and could perhaps explain why they are cold both sides. There is an internal air temperature sensor in the aircon control on the centre console. It is behind one of the little grills on the control and cabin air is drawn over it by a small fan inside the control panel. If it gets clogged badly the sensor gets heated by the surrounding parts and the system thinks the interior of the car is already warm, and so blows cold air. Might be worth vacuuming the girls at the very least. You won’t get a warning light for a/c faults but the module can be diagnosed with INPA etc. as it will log fault codes. It is very helpful when diagnosing problems as you can see live sensor data.
  15. THe39M5

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    I assume the hydraulic ones are those with the cylinder that they compress (looks like a tiny damper / shock absorber).