dj1233

unplug them and plug working sensors in to diagnose if it is the sensor or the wiring. The PDC control box is in the spare wheel well in the boot, good to check everything is plugged in and has not been water damaged.

even a minor amount of play will give you brake wobble, as can the torque control arm. You can check yourself easily by jacking the car up and checking for play by moving the wheel. The lower rear arm is easy to diagnose using this method.

Have you checked the lower rear arm (component 16)? This will cause brake wobble as the ball joint on the hub 'goes', and gives you brake wobble.

have you read any of the error codes?

have you checked your power steering fluid level?

why do you want rubber mats? IMO the carpeted mats are better, especially as a driver in wet weather as they soak up the moisture from wet shoes (and dry out whilst driving). Where as the rubber mats hold it like a puddle and become slippery.

potentially a sticky clutch switch may be the issue then. I am guessing it is on/near the clutch pedal itself.

were you sat with the clutch depressed? or was this at idle with the clutch out.

I've never used either, so can't comment on any personal impressions. But I find things like this interesting to actually see what's out there. https://www.helperformance.com/oem-production On their front page of the website it details: We have our own 3D printer (ABS modelling) to allow us to make a prototype of your item very quickly before manufacturing in metal and have our own research and development department which includes a Salt Spray Test Machine, Pressure Test Machine, Co-ordinate Measuring Machine and Shadowgraph facilities. Our brake line products have full ABE approval (Dekra / KBA) so that they are legal for any road in the world. The HEL mark has been accepted and registered with the DOT in the USA and we have also registered with the ADR, NZTA and the Israel Ministry Of Transport. Perhaps 3rd party sellers buy their lines and fitments in bulk, and make up the lines for each order. Meaning they are not pressure tested as they do not come built from the factory.

an odd caveat being: These products do not have ECE approval. This means they must not be used on public roads in any exterior application they must be working on that I guess, and in the meantime getting there name out there in the LED headlight market.

Standard tyre pressures will be fine. What is in there now is way too high and you'll be wearing the centre tyre depth down in no time (plus the awful ride/drivability of the thing)

You have to remember that a BMW dealer labour rate is about £120 an hour, and they quote off their recommended time for each job.

you'll find they don't get picked up as it all lives under the plastic guard.

no, simply providing what ( I would consider) a reasonable explanation to what they have flagged up. A 2nd opinion on these jobs will always have a different outcome, and as mentioned above the dealer will work on meticulous level rather than the 'acceptable' level the indy's and general public will work on. I'm fairly sure if they were going to try and 'con' you they would pick things that cost a lot more to do and be a main dealer only task, e.g a CIC re-install or software update. An exhaust and ball joints aren't a tricky job!

are you using the right clips/connection method as before? is the pipe of the same quality/material as the previous pipe?