sams255

what was the issue you had ?

i purchased this which is LL04 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-GTX-Fully-Synthetic-5W30-Engine-Oil-20-Litres/264332398189

I used Bartley BMW a few times, they are all the way in Totton. There is another specialist in Hedge end but they were only like a few pounds difference with regards to servicing compared to the main dealer and they hardly pick up the phone.

Not sure about Manual gearbox but i did rear diff

I had my steering wheel in my F11 retrimmed from Royal steering wheels. Cost around 180 including fitting.

I ordered Genuine front ones from coltswold BMW they had velcro and really hard wearing, cheaper than any other dealer and delivered to my home address. Contact = philennis@cotswoldgroup.com mention you got his email address from the forum.

Yea my mate had a similar issue and it sounded similar to yours it was oil pump failure

There was a BMW specialist i was speaking to and he said even 10k oil changes are too long. some say 6k

What is everyone doing with regards to conditioning the leather. I did read on other forums that the Dakota leather is coated and doesn't need to have conditioner applied to it. Other people in other forums have been applying aerospace 303 on it.

Sounds like you may have spun a main bearing ?

the first time diff oil was changed was at 150k, i didn't see it as ZF did the whole service. at 180k i did the next one it seemed ok.

no Panels for the rear diff. But to the Auto box i had to remove panels, Not realy heard of anyone doing manual gearbox oil change. The instructions must be on https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/ search for your specific car and find the how to guide that way

Thought I'd treat myself and get rid of my old analogue cluster and have the 6WB fitted. Makes it a better driving experience imho

This was discussed a while back

i did a differential oil change, there was no drain plug so i had to use this sucking thing, purchased the diff oil from amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005UGKJCS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and purchased a new diff plug with washer for a couple of pounds from the dealer. Its only a litre in there anyway so this is good enough

When I asked him a couple of years ago it was really expensive but as the supply of these units have increased the price has come down. I have seen them on eBay for around 780-900 so I thought well he has to code the cluster to the VIN and code it etc so it's not a bad price.

950 with everything included. But for me who does loads of motorway mileage. I felt it was well spent as I'm keeping the car for a few more years.

https://www.facebook.com/bimretrofit/ He also retrofitted my NBT, has loads of pictures on his FB, Very reasonable if you have coding issues

I used a guy in west london, known him for a few years now. He plugged it in and coded it in around 15 mins. I also wanted the Digital MPH above the needle so he coded that in too.

Yea he fixed mine

For those who have the oyster leather, how much cleaning is required/ how dirty does it get compared to the dark brown or black leather ?

if its not responsive maybe the MAP/MAF sensor need a clean ? if you have ista put it on and see what error codes are showing up?

If it is a chain replacement you require, i know a few mates/family who have had work done by this garage for chain replacement etc, they are cheaper and comes with warranty. They are in Dartford though and appear to be more reasonable than your other 2k quote https://www.porscheenginebuilding.com/bmw-timing-chain-failure I don't know if plugging in ista will tell you if there is a problem with chains or this noise or not. I suppose you need to get it properly diagnosed rather than it could be this or could be that.

So i decided to replace my oxygen sensor Pre cat. See the pic below its caked in carbon. Car has done around 183K. It wasn't too difficult to remove i had to buy a 22mm oxygen sensor socket for around 4 pounds and i used some specialist wd40 an hour before removing the sensor. Just make sure you follow the wires and see how they are clipped in. As you will need to reroute the wire then when you put the new sensor make sure the wires are clipped in otherwise they will melt etc. As you have to take off the intake housing i thought id might as well take off the MAF/MAP sensor and give them a clean. see pics below they were covered in carbon. One i reinstalled the new sensor and torqued it up you have to reset adaptations for the emission side. so did that on ista. What took more time was initially looking around to see how cables went. The actual job was straight forward. The car seems way more responses maybe due to MAp/MAF cleaning

I had waster ingress and is got that module wet. I had to purchase a new module and silicone up some parts