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About Oneball

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    2004 Alpina B3s, 1998 540i Touring, 2013 R1200GS LC, Mk1 Mini Cooper S

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  1. EML light today, rough running and won't rev, plugged it in, and error for the throttle position sensor is showing. Cable throttle with sensor on throttle body. Had a play with the connector and a few other things but no joy, still the same. Had another go at starting it after 10 mins and it was fine, cleared the light and it's not come back yet. So not sure what has caused it. Live data shows throttle position from 0% to 98.7% as you press it so technically ok, however it is 0% for an inch or two of travel (have reset position, no change) and when in neutral I can rev it to 5500 with TPS position is still showing 0%. Do we think the throttle body is kaput? Thanks Tim
  2. Oneball

    Lamba test in inpa

    What's the coolant temp showing in INPA (not the dash gauge, although the sensor in the block feeds both ecu and gauge it has two circuits in it)? Could be the temp sensor not telling the ECU the correct temp.
  3. Oneball

    Cant Clear Airbag Fault - Fixed

    Fixed now, followed your advice and changed both the module and side impact sensors for the newer type and now all working. Thanks
  4. Oneball

    V8 Tapping Noise

    I've only experienced a Vanos rattle on a six cylinder Alpina but I'd have thought it'd sound similar on an M62TU If it sounds like the videos in real life my money is on it being either Vanos seals or the Vanos check valve. Typical Vanos problem noise sounds very much like a diesel clatter and that's what I think your's sounds like. Timing chain noise is more like nuts in a can as it's lighter stuff rattling. The Vanos rattle is cause by the sprocket rattling on the helical splines on the cam so it's two relatively heavy bits of metal banging. Tappet issues on these are far more of a tick and not remotely rattley, I had one on my 540i that would always do it if I'd been spending a long time driving around town. This is just my opinion and I could easily be wrong. There must be a decent indy near you who can have a listen and say straight away what it is.
  5. Oneball

    V8 Tapping Noise

    There is a check valve behind the Vanos solenoid to prevent oil draining from the unit. I think this not sealing properly would fit your symptoms but it’s a guess. I think it it can be changed just by removing the solenoid, no need to take the Vanos apart. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/non-return-check-valve/11111734667/
  6. Oneball

    Cant Clear Airbag Fault - Fixed

    Thanks, both the original and replacement ECU are 6900727.
  7. Oneball

    Cant Clear Airbag Fault - Fixed

    Can't see anything wrong with the rest of the airbag system. Tried to code the new module today and it won't accept the coding, just comes up with an error. When I look at the error codes stored in the new s/h unit one is 240 internal ECU error. So there's two options I think 1. The new s/h ECU has an internal fault meaning it can't be coded or errors cleared, the same as the original unit. 2. The 240 internal ecu error is not related to the airbag ECU module, although everything I read says it is and changing the ecu will sort it. I've asked the supplier of the s/h unit if they've got another I can try.
  8. Oneball

    V8 Tapping Noise

    The thing I find odd is that there is a rattle when starting from hot but not from cold, the Vanos rattle is caused by oil leaking out/air leaking in to the unit so you'd have thought it would be worse the longer you leave it. The rattle is the splined end of the vanos being able to move in the cam sprocket as there is no pressure to hold it steady. Plucking at straws a bit but do you know the Vanos is working? If it isn't maybe it's something to do with the Vanos solenoid/actuators. This may sound a bit daft but are you sure it's not the fuel tank vent?
  9. Oneball

    V8 Tapping Noise

    When I swapped mine out the new tensioner was significantly longer. Has as it made any difference to the noise?
  10. Oneball

    Cant Clear Airbag Fault - Fixed

    It didn't come up with any sensor errors, but will have a look. I'm beginning to think that I may have to code the new ecu even though it's the same one and appears to be coded the same. Am I right in saying I can just copy the coding from the old unit via ncs, save the coding as a .man file replace the ecu and and use the .man file for the new ecu?
  11. After sorting the PDC, secondary air pump valve and various vacuum leaks and other bits and pieces my Dad's E39 passed it's mot with flying colours and was doing well for two days until the airbag light came on. Plugged the computer in fault 240 ecu internal error, 11 ignition circuit and 17 supply voltage. Tried to clear them but INPA comes up with an error and won't clear them, assuming the ecu has gone kaput I get a s/h one from a similar e39 saloon and fit it. Connect the computer all fine except the new s/h unit has a couple of faults go to clear them and same thing INPA comes up with an error. Try DIS and same thing. Didn't write the faults down but they're not current. Checking the data the new unit it seems to be coded the same as the old one. Now this isn't a case of being able to clear the errors and they come back it seems to be that I can't communicate properly with the ECU, at least that's what I'm thinking. Any ideas as to why this is happening, I've cleared airbag codes on my e39 ok previously.
  12. Oneball

    V8 Tapping Noise

    Both the tensioner and the Vanos work by oil pressure in a piston so changing the grade of oil could have a similar effect on each.
  13. You can try checking the linkage, but the manual boxes are known to have some issues with the detents in the box, Google something like e39 detent problem.
  14. Oneball

    V8 Tapping Noise

    Your symptoms seem too sporadic and the different noises make me think it may not be one thing. Can you stick your head under the bonnet and identify where the noise is coming from? You can use a big screw driver with the handle against you ear and the other end at different points around the engine, block, head, timing cover etc. If it's only present at start up and goes away after a few seconds it's most likely to be the timing chain tensionner, it works via oil pressure but has a spring inside to provide some tension at start up when there is now oil pressure, the spring goes weak with time. If it's never been done it's worth changing anyway. It's a two minute job. Part 20
  15. Oneball

    PDC Not Working No Faults

    Working now Got two new sensors from a different place and replaced the two I had previously replaced, no difference. Replaced the two old sensors so all 4 are new, no difference. Eventually after much fiddling I found that having two new sensors in the middle and two old ones on the outside and it works. I can't explain this as all four sensors should be the same and the ones that come out were all the same, and of the two old ones that are now at the outside, one came from the middle and one came from the outside. For some reason it seems the new sensors don't work in the outside position.