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Andyrt200

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About Andyrt200

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    E39 530i Touring Sport

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  1. Andyrt200

    Is the cam M54 cam cover prone to cracking?

    Ah great thanks, I’ve been practicing my plastic welding skills quite a bit recently so maybe that with some epoxy over the top too would do the trick. I guess new seals would be best, I think the X8R instructions said you can reuse them if they’re not too old but probably better not to chance it.
  2. Not doing very well with the cam covers really, this was a year ago: I had fitted the X8R vanos kit & found my cover had a big crack in it: I had a spare, but it had been broken round the front a bit where a mate was a bit too keen putting it off a spare engine. I put it on but it leaked right away. So I got a third used one. That one has been fine for the last year & a good 15k miles. But I just noticed a bit of a smell of burnt oil again & found its leaking a bit at the back down on to the exhaust manifold cover: The oil seems to be confined to just under the coil packs: worst at the back of the engine (where is coming over the side & down): That is the the general area the original cover had cracked. So I’m assuming this used one has now cracked too, although I can’t see any obvious cracks. The engine block below is dry & its dry down the bottom of every plug well. Apart from the rubber seals on the bolts that hold the cover down a crack is the only other way I can think it would be wet with oil there. The seals were all new a year ago so I shouldn’t think the would have gone hard & started leaking yet? I think someone said I should have just got a new cam cover when I fitted the used one!
  3. Andyrt200

    touring tailgate wiring

    I forgot, I bought those the crip connectors from BMW (as I recall you can buy them individually). I decided not to use them though & soldered the new wires using heat shrink as above too. Some of the cables are quite heavy gauge & need a powerful soldering iron. In my top picture all the trim is removed from the tailgate, DO NOT take off the inner covers, there is nothing under them & the tabs snap off. Each side of new trim is £75! You only need to take off the outer trim that you can see in the second picture, the one with the separate little tab fixings that push though.
  4. Andyrt200

    touring tailgate wiring

    I forgot I took this picture: it was really to show the rust, but you can just see the wires where they run down the tail gate screen sides. The plastic tabs that push into the white oval holes you can see tend to snap off, they have barbs inside them. New bits are rather pricey, I’ve only just got round to putting it all back together properly: That was a good tip to leave some spare wire inside the roof there is plenty of room in there. Its best to stagger the connections down the tail gate as there isn’t a lot of room in there, it would be hard to get the trim back on if the connections were all bunched together. I found the radio started working much better after I did it too!
  5. Andyrt200

    Ice white angel eyes?

    You’re right there! I hadn’t thought about them matching the other bulbs, I was thinking about getting LEDs for the dipped beam after putting some in the TVR but now I’ve cleaned up the outer covers probably the original H7s actually work quite well so I wasn’t intending to replace them. Ah good point, probably better to get the bulbs in first & see how they look in the daylight, as you say probably nothing like the new BMs!
  6. Andyrt200

    Ice white angel eyes?

    Its the later car with the angle eyes already there. I just finished polishing up the lenses with the 3M kit so fancy bringing up it to date a bit more. I have seen a few people mention they have the LED bulb kits. I see there are many to choose from on eBay, I was just wondering how well they last & if there were any problems running them. I was also wondering about converting them to running lights, obviously it not too hard to just run an ignition feed to them but you’d need to disconnect the original feed & that would probably make the car think the bulbs had gone & display the message all the time. Re-programming the LCM would seem like a better option if possible?
  7. Andyrt200

    touring tailgate wiring

    You need to take out the speakers in the roof out & the trim off the tailgate so you can make the joints in those two places using a length of correct gauge cable to join them, then you have the same number of wires going though the rubber, the original goes back fine then. It’s very hard to re-join them inside the rubber & get it back over as you have found, they will just snap again in no time anyway as your joints will be getting flexed every time you open the boot. I know because I tried the quick fix first too
  8. Andyrt200

    DME vers / new EWS loosing sync

    The airbag was a recall so no charge for that.
  9. Andyrt200

    DME vers / new EWS loosing sync

    Well it’s been two months now & its been absolutely fine ever since BMW did the update on it. Just wish I knew exactly what it was they updated on it! It never has gone anything like this long without needing a resync before & its been in use just about every day over the last two months. For anyone else who finds they need a new EWS it seems they do know about the problem so taking it into a main dealer will fix the problem with the new EWS loosing sync with the DME. However the new EWS was at least £100 & the hours labour from BMW was £100 too so an EWS delete would probably be better value!
  10. Andyrt200

    530i Manual - Feels 'Flat'

    My other half drives the E39 quite a bit more than I do so I haven’t been out in since the first drive after fitting the X8R DISA kit. She has done probably about 200 miles in it since, I just went out in it again today & had a very pleasant surprise pulling out into a smaller gap on a 60 limit road, it really took off! I wonder if the adaptive maps may take a little while to catch up to having a working DISA after trying to compensate for it not working for so long. I have always reset the adaptives on other cars after changing non working parts. I did look at resetting them after doing the VANOS seals but there are so many different ones in INPA I decided to leave them alone!
  11. We used to be able to press in the column leaver (or stick, what the proper name?!) to switch between the different read outs in the lower dash display but its stuck on range now. That is probably the most useful anyway so it’s not really a problem it being stuck on that but it would be nice to have a look at consumption with the newly worked DISA. I’m guessing it’s probably the switch contacts inside the steering column, but wondered if anyone had heard of it before I go poking about?
  12. Andyrt200

    530i Manual - Feels 'Flat'

    Could be useful for someone. I was looking on eBay at general M54B30 bits & a Febi Cam sensor popped up, it seemed to have the part number ground off. Wish they were there when I wanted one!
  13. Andyrt200

    530i Manual - Feels 'Flat'

    I need to do the CCV next too, do the inlet manifold gaskets go hard like the DISA ones? My inlet manifold was horrible inside, covered in burnt on oil. I was thinking it could probably do with a clean up inside. Apparently that is what causes the DISA to fail in the first place, the deposits restrict its movement & it strains old the plastic flap parts causing it to fail over time.
  14. Andyrt200

    530i Manual - Feels 'Flat'

    Wow you’re keen! I did take it out again, mine is moving fine all the way now, closing up no problem, no idea what was stopping it to begin with. The car does run better, gives it a nice little extra punch mid range. Nothing like the massive difference fixing the VANOS made but still well worth doing. Incase you want to test either your old one or the new one, I found that short video I linked above doesn’t work (for an auto at at least, it may on a manual) when he just turned the ignition on to activate the valve. I wasted a lot of time as you can put 12v to the pins of the DISA off the car as in the second video & it worked fine. But very confusingly you can measure 12v from plug on the car that goes to the DISA when turning the ignition on, but it won’t activate it. I put in some jumpers & measured the voltage from them, it dropped to 0v as soon as the DISA is connected, must be no current there at all. Luckily I had a dig through INPA & found there is a DISA test hidden in the activations tab / page, it works fine with that.
  15. Andyrt200

    E39 no crank fault

    Disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes should re-sync your keys with the EWS. I’m unfortunately quite experienced in EWS matters now, I wasted a good two years on it Disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes before you can start the car isn’t exactly ideal! I couldn’t find anything in INPA to help with re-syncing the keys with the EWS, only the battery disconnect worked for me. I tried a new ring antenna - no effect. I got a new EWS from BMW (they only come in V4 something now) that fixed the sync with the keys issue but caused a whole new problem with sync between the new EWS & the DME. INPA can reset the connection between those very quickly. It will crank over but not fire when the EWS - DME sync has gone. We had to keep the laptop in the car for over a year & had some very close shaves with the laptop battery being flat. A month or so ago it went in for the airbag recall & we got BMW to run an update on it with their kit, unfortunately I wasn’t able to establish exactly what they did, it wasn’t a DME update but it’s looking promising starting every time since (really hoping I’ve not cursed it now). My other half has just gone to the gym without me laptop for the first time to really test fate! Only issue is the new EWS is about £100 & the hours labour to code it was £100. Or you can find someone to send the DME off to for an EWS delete, I was looking at doing that myself but there is a reasonable chance of bricking the DME doing it. I think Jimmy can get an old EWS 3 set up to work for you, but I didn’t fancy putting a used one in as my old one had failed...
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