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Andyrt200

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Andyrt200 last won the day on November 22 2019

Andyrt200 had the most liked content!

About Andyrt200

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    E39 530i Touring Sport

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  1. Andyrt200

    Screw in valves

    Good to know, I can get the bits for both cars here! Just ordered over the phone, thanks. The reg is MX07 YLF if the warranty can still be applied, sorry I forgot that.
  2. Andyrt200

    Screw in valves

    Hi, glad to see you’re up & running in the new place! I hope I don’t get in trouble asking for E93 bits, sure I’ll need some more E39 bits soon Can I check availability & price on the screw in valves for my style 230 wheels please? I need 4. The rear wheels are part number 36116779659 (Fronts have same deep hollow valve hole) The valves are I think are 36136775937 My tyre shop have been looking using that part number & can’t get any, but looking at pictures of that part number say those are for TPS systems & wouldn’t work without an in wheel monitoring system. As far as I know they are the original wheels for my E93 but it uses the wheel speed sensors to check of flat tyres. So it doesn’t need the in wheel TPS system but does need the longer screw in valves for the 15mm deep holes through the hollow rims. Do you know if these valves will work on their own?
  3. Looks good! The shade is a pain, apparently you can get slightly different tints. I had some pro mixed paint to use in my guns & it was noticeable darker than the original paint on the boot, it took three goes to blend it in before I was happy!
  4. Andyrt200

    Rattle can spraying body panels/parts

    Yes sounds good. I was going to add I use 600 on high build primer so there is a good thickness to take back. The BMW primer would be very thin so you’d likely go through it, especially on corners, even with 800 - 1200.
  5. Andyrt200

    Rattle can spraying body panels/parts

    Each to their own but I’ve never flatted between coats (once all the primer is finished & flatted down) I just leave the colour & lacquer a few minutes to flash off & the next coat will key in fine with the last still being fresh. If you flat a metallic base coat it takes the tops all the flecks of metallic really messing with finish so there is no way you can flat the final base colour coat anyway. If you happen to mess up a colour base getting muck or something in it you can then let that dry & flat it back, then do another colour coat. 2000 grit is really just for “colour sanding” flatting down the lacquer after you’ve finished if you get any runs or dust in it (then using cutting polish to get the shine back). 600 grit is about the finest you’d normally use for prep before the colour. Maybe with your bits being factory primered 1200 could be used. But that silver is a bugger for really showing up funny scuff marks from the prep work, so it could be better to just clean it up with panel prep & not do any flatting at all.
  6. Good idea, that & eBay are the only place you can get car paint at the moment. So the problem pros can’t do anything unless they happen to have the correct shade in stock & work from home. Assuming you have some plastic primer too it should turn out very well. Thats the perfect sized thing to be spraying with rattle cans. The 1k lacquer should last reasonably well if you give it a good few coats then a good polish after its had a good long time to dry properly.
  7. Andyrt200

    E39 parts

    I found when doing the rust on my friends SE it had plastic clips here instead. Will try to remember to look into this when things get going again, they are much neater.
  8. Much better, nice new 18”s too. Bet you can’t wait for the body shop to open again!
  9. Andyrt200

    Coding...!

    If you bought it with the cable from @jimmy on here I’m sure he would help you out with a fresh download copy. He did for me recently. He also helped me get to grips with NCS expert, top guy! If not its worth checking his website https://www.cable-shack.co.uk/ before paying out for Carly, (I have no experience of Carly) I think he’s sponsor of this site too.
  10. Andyrt200

    MAIN FUEL FEED & RETURN LINES

    I don’t think the petrol E39s suffer from it. As far as I know the only important vacuum line on that is to the brake servo. I’d forgotten but you reminded me my 335i is only 12 years old & the vacuum lines to the twin turbos actuators were starting to go when I got it, one had fallen off the end had gone so much! Oddly from the actuators down to the turbos were already silicon vacuum pipes & were fine, they looked original. I replaced the rest of them with silicone too.
  11. Andyrt200

    MAIN FUEL FEED & RETURN LINES

    The pictures for that link show the pipe with R6 printed on it. That’s the stuff I was taking off the TVR a few years ago to replace with the supposedly better R9. (I fitted the R6 some years before & it failed in the same way ) There are other types out there that will last but its very hard to tell. As I said I only use the Gates stuff now.
  12. Andyrt200

    MAIN FUEL FEED & RETURN LINES

    You need to be very careful replacing rubber pipe these days, the ethanol in modern petrol eats through rubber. We only have 5% ethanol in the uk but its 10% in other countries & they want to make it higher. R9 pipe is meant to be ethanol resistant, I fitted this to our TVR a couple of years ago It was spraying everywhere out of the cracks! I had replace the stuff in the engine bay with this last year as I had noticed it cracking sooner Thats still in perfect condition. It’s not cheap but the only stuff I’ll use now. Lots of classics are going up in flames due to this issue. I assume BMW used something special for their rubber pipe as I haven’t seen or heard of any issues with that. If you go replacing the BMW rubber be careful!
  13. Andyrt200

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Thanks, no I did that with a spray gun & compressor. I sand blasted the rust off too, much quicker than spending hours with deox gell as I did with ours when it was stuck in the garage up on axle stands. The rattle cans are much better these days though, if you have done it before I should think you could get smaller areas like this looking as good with them. I noticed you can even get 2k lacquer in spray can now (two compartments in the can). I did a quick job (not a BM) just using rattle cans & 1k & was amazed how well that turned out.
  14. Andyrt200

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Not been fiddling with ours as it’s not really been in use with lock down. I have finished my mates so though I share those pictures instead. SE bumpers do repair a lot more easily than sports! Shame he can’t drive it for a while now! His jacking points were perfect, quite surprising given the rust on all the wheel arches bottoms / sill ends.
  15. Andyrt200

    MAIN FUEL FEED & RETURN LINES

    Mine were odd, just one had gone Looks like maybe it’s just one one of yours too? I noticed the rust & had popped it out of the holder to try cleaning it up but there was a nasty smell of petrol very quickly, luckily that happened just poking it with a scraper. Not sure a wire bush with a slim possibility of sparks would have been good! I paid out for genuine replacement from BMW & took the old pipe in to be sure it was the correct one, they are slightly different. Unlike the brake pipes these come pre bent to the correct shape but more importantly have an identical end to the old one. The main issue is the tank end connects to rubber pipe you can’t replace with out dropping the fuel tank. I was worried trying to fit any other new custom pipe to the old rubber pipe would result in leaks & I didn’t want to go to the bother of taking the tank out having. I only found the leaking pipe at the end of a long full rebuild of the whole rear subframe & I needed to get it back on the road ASAP. That was a couple of years & over 30k miles ago, they still look perfect now. I did give them all a good coat of UB wax though.
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