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Andyrt200

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About Andyrt200

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    E39 530i Touring MSport

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  1. Andyrt200

    The E39 First World Problems thread

    Ah brilliant thanks! I thought it must have just been a switch that could be reversed, it’s one of those things I’ve been meaning to look at for years. That link will save lots of time
  2. Andyrt200

    The E39 First World Problems thread

    Well every day is a school day, I have happily been calling them MSports for the last 20 years! I did wonder why the V5 form only had Sport on it though... Quite, every trader friend I have & ever dealer I have spoken to called them the MSport. We got a new 320d “MSport” in 2007, the main UK BMW website called it that. In 2010 we got an 325SE instead of the MSport in 2010. It was only when looking again 2015 I found the easy choice of SE or MSport had been replaced with a bewildering range of models, the MSport being conspicuous in its absence. In relation to the tread though, its the manual gear selection of the auto that bugs me, you should push the leaver forward to drop a cog, not pull it back!
  3. Andyrt200

    Amps (for a sub) & when to fit in a touring

    Sorry I didn’t realise there was actually a separate section for audio stuff, thanks for mentioning that @d_a_n1979! I’ll just update this thread here though so the other people like me who didn’t know about the audio section see it. The relays just unclip from the holder: as do the fuse holders themselves: Then you can just feed the relays & fuse holders back behind that bar of body work so the main cable for them all comes in front, hardly any wires or plugs have to be disconnected. They just clip back into the holder that goes back in the same place: You can just see the PDC unit tucked in behind now with the wires running to it, it’s just held in with sticky pads. The sub box is generally very good, but the connections you can see in gold there are rubbish the threads strip very easily just doing the nuts finger tight! The box does need a bit of trimming to fit over the battery terminal (I think that’s the explosive disconnect device thing that sticks up). There are some very detailed instructions from a different in a link at the top of this thread, but that guy removed loads of MDF, I just used the sanding disc on the angle grinder, the curved cut out should be stronger than the sharp edges. It fits in very well: The cover panel goes back on fine using the original fitting so just pops off if you want to show anybody. (That is after removing the soundproofing & all sticking out bits of plastic from it): No clue anything is there & you can still chuck what ever rubbish you like in the boot with no fear of damaging it! It is a bit of a pain if you want to disconnect the battery, but it only means lifting the boot floor to remove that lower plastic trim then the sub just slides out easily. I did mention trying to drill holes in it but is so powerful with the cover as is I won’t bother, it sounds amazing! I also said I want to try relocating the storage bin to the other side, but I didn’t realise how much smaller that space it: So I won’t bother, it just full of rubbish I don’t need to be carting about anyway, so the amp will be going in there. I hope I can modify the CD changer bracket to hold the amp. But for the time being it’s just under the boot floor: I have changed the door speakers too but I’ll put those pictures in the correct audio section...
  4. Andyrt200

    E39 parts

    I have some of those screws, (in my pictures above) they are indeed just plated in a nice black finish. It was the nuts I was wondering about, a quick search like you did for the screws would suggest they’re not rubber coated, I could have sworn the ones I took off did have a rubber coating. It’s not nice pushing the standard metal slip on nuts over your lovely fresh new paint!
  5. Andyrt200

    E39 parts

    Ah great thanks, yes its the position of numbers 8 & 9 that throw you in that diagram! If you remember can you confirm if your new nuts have a rubber coating on them when you get them?
  6. Andyrt200

    E39 parts

    I’m actually still not sure, even after a chat on the phone & sending more pictures I just realised I ended up with the wrong ones! Previously I just ordered new screws. I ended up with the wrong larger ones ending in 964 when I got them from my local dealer. I did get the correct screws in my last order here (ending 161). But I have ended up with the body nut for the larger ones again this time! In hindsight I should have given the part number for the correct screw. I think the larger screws are for actually holding the wing to the car body, I don’t remember having taken any off that big when removing the trim. But I’m sure they do appear on the page you’d expect the trim screws to be on, hence easily mixed up. On a different note be careful with the touring boot plastic trim & clips they do cost a fair bit, I will be gluing the main trim panels back on, the pair were almost half the original quote!
  7. Andyrt200

    E39 parts

    Ordered & received yesterday, thanks!
  8. Andyrt200

    Suspension overhaul / eBay kits

    I just thought before I rebuild the whole rear end we were lucky to get 6-7k miles out of a set of good new rear tyres before the inside edges were bald. It did have snow tyres on for a month or so but the new 275s must have done at least 15k & are only down to 4.5mm now, nice & evenly over the whole tyre too. I did set it all up carefully myself. I obviously put all the adjusters back where they were. I was hoping to reduce the negative camber to 1deg, it was exactly 2deg each side, but I could only get it to 1.5deg. The tow was well out on the original settings so I put that back to an even amount with slight tow in.
  9. Andyrt200

    Suspension overhaul / eBay kits

    Glad you found it, it’s been doing sterling service since all that work with nothing else having gone wrong since (hope I haven’t cursed it now!). It’s just about to hit 200k miles in a week or two, it was at 180k before I did all that work. I do get to use it occasionally but it’s my better half's daily driver now, we both love it! It does remind me I still haven’t looked at the DISA. I just finished doing lots of work on my 200sx for her to use if I need to work on the E39 but she doesn’t want to ever give up the E39 so my time to fiddle with it is rather limited!
  10. Andyrt200

    E39 parts

    Sorry missed your reply, the notifications aren’t working for me. The Reg is F13 MDT
  11. Andyrt200

    E39 Touring Subframe Bushes

    No problem, I should think if the bushes have a different part number for the E61 then the tool I was using won’t fit.
  12. Andyrt200

    E39 Touring Subframe Bushes

    That tool I have in my pictures above had instructions with it, they only mentioned E39 touring & E38 so I assume not for E61.
  13. Andyrt200

    E39 Touring Subframe Bushes

    I have the correct tool for the touring, it actually belongs to @jimmy he hires it out. Give him a shout & I then I can get it out to you. They are very easy to change with it.
  14. Andyrt200

    E39 parts

    Hello, Can you give me a price so I can order some of these for a 2001 touring. 51248190688 Gas pressurized spring (is that the pair? They should be the ones for the glass) Inter. lateral trunk lid trim panel for left & right in black 51498216725 51498216726 Stop buffer 51248226064 Insert 07417203297 (do these come in a pack?) Left trunk lid trim panel clip SCHWARZ3 51498217213 Right trunk lid trim panel clip SCHWARZ3 51498217214 (I assume this & the one above come in the pack of 3?) Everything above should be for the rear boot lid. But I also want some of these slide on captive nuts (I think they have a rubber coating to protect the paint) to go on the front wings to hold the arch splash gaurds, where there is a screw missing here: sorry I can’t find a part number for those!
  15. You need to check the current draw with everything off, that 15mim delay is a pain though! Set your multimeter to amps, (generally you swap where the wire go into it as well as changing the setting) then disconnect the battery & remake the connection with the two wires from your multimeter. You will see the high drain for the 15mins or so then it should drop off. Then just uplug any suspect item, if they are the cause you see the current drop immediately. Pulling fuses has the same effect. I forget the exact numbers you should be looking for but a quick google will give you an idea. Just be careful not to turn anything on when doing that, the multimeter can’t carry much current, mine has a 10A limit. I had a problem when it wasn’t used very much with the battery going flat & it current draw was a bit high but since it’s been back in more regular use it doesn’t cause any issues so I never really got to the bottom of it. The hedgehog resistor is something that seems to crop up quite a bit. But there are many other other things like my USB adapter in the cigarette lighter is actually always taking a bit.
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