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Blackman last won the day on December 28 2019

Blackman had the most liked content!

About Blackman

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    London, UK


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    E34 525i SE Manual

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  1. Blackman

    central locking / rear doors don't lock

    What I know for certain is that there is a separate actuator for each door, but they are different for front/back. I would suggest looking up various E34 central locking problems in Google and see what you find.
  2. Blackman

    central locking / rear doors don't lock

    What is the position of the pins on the doors? Can you pull them up/push down? Does that make any difference? Could be the door lock actuators, but surely it can't be that both failed at the same time? Here's a video:
  3. Was a bit bored after the last update and thought I could get a few more small things done before the end of the year... Decided to look into the issue of the ABS triggering for no reason at low speeds, which doesn't seem to be a common problem, but I managed to find a few vague threads online, although nothing specific. Started with the most obvious thing and did the OBD scan, which surprisingly came up with a fault code for the driver's front ABS sensor. To be honest, I haven't read much about ABS sensors going wrong on E34s, but still decided just to replace it to avoid any future problems with it. Looked up the part number for the front ABS sensor, which is 34521181839, and I initially thought about ordering a Bosch one from Germany, but turns out BMW's price was pretty much the same, so decided to go directly with BMW and also purchased the bolt (07129905867) and the washer (07119932099) for the sensor as well. The sensor was around 90 pounds. As expected, the BMW's sensor is made by Bosch and it's basically the exact same thing - it doesn't even have BMW's logo on it. In case, if you would like to order one directly from Germany, the Bosch part number is: 0 265 001 339. Notice this part number is stamped on the sensor. While I was at BMW, I decided to pick up a replacement CCM module, thinking it would be an easy fix for the bulb-out warning lights that I'm getting as I soon as I put the lights on. I read on the forum that this is a common problem, but bare in mind the unit is quite pricy at 100+. One strange thing that I've noticed with this module, is that if you try to look up the number, which is stamped on the part (61352942287), it doesn't actually come up on RealOEM as a part from the catalogue. However, if you search it on Google or eBay, then there are many results for it, because naturally you would think that's the part number. Turns out, the current valid part number on RealOEM for the check control module that you see below is: 61351388614. It's really easy to replace it, because it's located in the fusebox under the bonnet. You just pull the tab securing the fusebox cover to unlock it, then remove the cover and you'll see all the fuses, some relays and 2 modules - one is the CCM (check control module) and the other is LKM (light control module). To replace, you just pull out the old one and push in the new unit into the slot. The good thing is that it took 30 seconds to change it, but the bad news are that it made no difference whatsoever. To be honest, I haven't really looked into this fault too deeply, as I know it could be damaged wiring in the boot or you could just disconnect the headlight adjusters to get rid of the fault, but I thought I would try this first and hoped it would be the end of it....Looks like, I was wrong. As for the ABS sensor, I got it changed a few weeks ago, the fault is now gone and doesn't come up anywhere, but unfortunately the problem is still there. When doing the OBD scan again, we looked up the individual readings for each ABS sensor while slowly driving the vehicle and noticed that for some reason the driver's rear ABS sensor doesn't register a reading when moving off. It does work, but it doesn't come alive immediately, like all the other 3 do, so that could possibly be the issue triggering the ABS at low speeds? Makes sense, but we won't know until we replace the rear sensor and see how it goes from there. Ordered and picked up the rear ABS sensor (34521181456) from BMW, which was slightly pricier than the front one, at around 120, but strangely enough, a Bosch one wasn't available from Germany - you could only get one made by Hitachi, albeit at half the price of the genuine one. The securing bolt and the washer are the same as for the front. Managed to find the BMW logo on this sensor, but couldn't find a manufacturer name or part number, unless BMW make it themselves, which is quite rare nowadays? Unfortunately, I didn't get the time to replace the rear sensor yet, so that will be the first thing to be done in 2020. Let's hope it will help to finally get rid of this stupid ABS problem, which can get pretty annoying, especially if you do regular short trips in medium traffic, which is exactly what I do. As per my previous update, I don't have any huge plans for 2020, so we'll see how it goes. All the major servicing/maintenance work has already been done, but you know what it's like with old BMWs - there's always something that you can tinker with. Enjoy your holidays everyone and Happy New Year!
  4. Blackman

    '94 540i Touring 6spd - The Money Pit!

    Flat 16's look miles better than those deep-dish BBS's and I would definitely stick with those - also being 17", they are quite rare.
  5. Blackman

    E34 Brake Pedal Spring Noise

    Apparently, I had a fault code for the driver's front ABS sensor, so I bought and replaced it. The fault code has now gone, but the problem with the ABS triggering at low speeds is still there. We've checked the ABS sensors operation, while the vehicle is slowly moving, and turns out the driver's rear ABS sensor is a bit slow to react to vehicle movement.... So as soon as the car moves, all the 3 other sensors will start showing a reading, whereas the driver's rear only comes up when you go slightly quicker, but this is all at almost stationary speed, not even 2 mph. I can't seem to find much info on ABS sensors failing on E34s? Is it actually common? Should I just go ahead and get a sensor for the rear now? With such limited diagnostics as above, I'm not confident buying a new sensor, as not sure if it will solve the problem.
  6. Blackman

    Headliner fabric source?

    You could pop into to your local trimming company and see what they have on offer? They could show you different samples available and might be worth letting them do the work, rather than try to bodge it yourself....Although, if you are confident, then that's a different matter.
  7. Blackman

    E34 Steering shaft moving up and down

    Not sure how it's all supposed to be, as I haven't taken the steering wheel off on mine, but this diagram might help you? https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=HD52-EUR-09-1992-E34-BMW-525i&diagId=32_0431
  8. Blackman

    LKM questions-The truth is out there....

    I've read somewhere that if you disconnect them, then the problem goes away, but surely that's not "the right way" of doing things? Or is there any other option?
  9. Blackman

    LKM questions-The truth is out there....

    I'm experiencing symptoms, which would indicate a CCM failure, rather than a LKM, but correct me, if I'm wrong? If a bulb is genuinely out, then I will get a warning message upon turning the key to "ON" position (without starting the car) and after replacing the said bulb, the warning will go away. Also if all the bulbs are ok, no warnings appear upon starting starting the car or during daytime driving. However, as soon as I put the lights on, then I start getting random warning messages about my brake lights being out, side lights, number plate lights, the whole lot - while of course everything works perfectly fine.
  10. Blackman

    E34 Brake Pedal Spring Noise

    Would it trigger the ABS and give the above symptoms, as I described above? As far as I know, the problems normally caused by a faulty brake light switch are brake lights not working or always staying on?
  11. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    Behr/Hella are OEM suppliers to BMW or at least they used to be, I'm pretty sure my original rad was made by Behr, hence the reason why I went for the same thing. I don't know if Nissens currently supply any major manufacturer, but that doesn't mean their stuff is bad. Here's a thread on another forum with mixed opinions as well > https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1883382-Behr-Nissen-or-OEM-Radiator Probably either is a decent choice, so it comes down to availability and price.
  12. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    I managed to source a Behr/Hella radiator from Germany back in 2016, so hopefully they still do them. I'm not a fan of Nissens, I think they are on the cheaper side of things, same as EIS, which are often sold by EuroCarParts and similar suppliers. Valeo is also good a choice, if you can find it.
  13. Blackman

    Positive jump start nut.

    If it's greyed out, it means the part is no longer available to order, so don't they show the part number for it. However, it looks like you might be in luck, because when looking up the part 11 on the above diagram (part no: 12427514342), it looks like that jump-starting nut comes with it, judging by the images found on Google. So you could double-check with your local dealer and order, assuming it doesn't cost a small fortune.
  14. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    What about the radiator? Mine looked fine overall, but it was actually bulging from the top and I had similar symptoms like you do - it would rarely get past the 1/2 mark, unless I got stuck in heavy, slow moving traffic. I replaced the whole lot back in 2016 (water pump, thermostat, radiator and viscous coupling), so can't say what was the exact cause, but seems like you've got everything covered, except the radiator...Also if I were you, I would get a genuine BMW thermostat, as I believe it was pretty reasonably priced for what it is.
  15. Blackman

    Hogie's E34 535I Sport Project

    My sills are generally ok, but not so perfect around the jacking points, especially the fronts, so I wanted to get a rough idea of the costs involved when doing such work. Feel free to PM me, if you don't want to post it here. Thanks