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Blackman

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Blackman last won the day on November 25 2018

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About Blackman

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    London, UK

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    E34 525i SE Manual

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  1. Blackman

    LKM questions-The truth is out there....

    I've read somewhere that if you disconnect them, then the problem goes away, but surely that's not "the right way" of doing things? Or is there any other option?
  2. Blackman

    LKM questions-The truth is out there....

    I'm experiencing symptoms, which would indicate a CCM failure, rather than a LKM, but correct me, if I'm wrong? If a bulb is genuinely out, then I will get a warning message upon turning the key to "ON" position (without starting the car) and after replacing the said bulb, the warning will go away. Also if all the bulbs are ok, no warnings appear upon starting starting the car or during daytime driving. However, as soon as I put the lights on, then I start getting random warning messages about my brake lights being out, side lights, number plate lights, the whole lot - while of course everything works perfectly fine.
  3. Blackman

    E34 Brake Pedal Spring Noise

    Would it trigger the ABS and give the above symptoms, as I described above? As far as I know, the problems normally caused by a faulty brake light switch are brake lights not working or always staying on?
  4. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    Behr/Hella are OEM suppliers to BMW or at least they used to be, I'm pretty sure my original rad was made by Behr, hence the reason why I went for the same thing. I don't know if Nissens currently supply any major manufacturer, but that doesn't mean their stuff is bad. Here's a thread on another forum with mixed opinions as well > https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1883382-Behr-Nissen-or-OEM-Radiator Probably either is a decent choice, so it comes down to availability and price.
  5. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    I managed to source a Behr/Hella radiator from Germany back in 2016, so hopefully they still do them. I'm not a fan of Nissens, I think they are on the cheaper side of things, same as EIS, which are often sold by EuroCarParts and similar suppliers. Valeo is also good a choice, if you can find it.
  6. Blackman

    Positive jump start nut.

    If it's greyed out, it means the part is no longer available to order, so don't they show the part number for it. However, it looks like you might be in luck, because when looking up the part 11 on the above diagram (part no: 12427514342), it looks like that jump-starting nut comes with it, judging by the images found on Google. So you could double-check with your local dealer and order, assuming it doesn't cost a small fortune.
  7. Blackman

    Behr/ Hella water pump

    What about the radiator? Mine looked fine overall, but it was actually bulging from the top and I had similar symptoms like you do - it would rarely get past the 1/2 mark, unless I got stuck in heavy, slow moving traffic. I replaced the whole lot back in 2016 (water pump, thermostat, radiator and viscous coupling), so can't say what was the exact cause, but seems like you've got everything covered, except the radiator...Also if I were you, I would get a genuine BMW thermostat, as I believe it was pretty reasonably priced for what it is.
  8. Blackman

    Hogie's E34 535I Sport Project

    My sills are generally ok, but not so perfect around the jacking points, especially the fronts, so I wanted to get a rough idea of the costs involved when doing such work. Feel free to PM me, if you don't want to post it here. Thanks
  9. Blackman

    Hogie's E34 535I Sport Project

    Mind me asking how much it cost to have that sill replaced, including all the welding and painting? It's definitely a lot of work.
  10. Fitted the replacement Bosch alternator and Bosch starter motor last Saturday, but before I go into that, wanted to mention that I had to replace the just over 1 year old clutch slave cylinder that we fitted in August 2018. I was doing my regular fluid checks under the bonnet few weeks ago, when I noticed that the clutch fluid reservoir had less than the minimum amount of fluid, which clearly wasn't right. I started thinking what could be the problem, because unless it was the clutch master cylinder leaking, then it couldn't be anything else, since the rest was all brand-new.....Anyway, few days later we checked the clutch master cylinder, which was dry, and also had a quick look under the car, but everything looked dry there as well. So we suspected that it could be the clutch slave cylinder leaking inside the gearbox bell housing....And it turned out to be exactly that. I'm not sure what caused the rubber seal to fail, but we put it down to the fact that the clutch fluid was very dirty/grease-like and as a result it could've damaged the seal. And it could also be the quality of the part, despite being made by Sachs? However, prior to changing the CSC last year, I drove with the previous FTE unit since I bought the car in October 2016 without any problems. A bit strange... Luckily, I took pictures of the original clutch slave cylinder that was fitted to the car when we were replacing the clutch last year, and it was one made by FTE. I doubt it was the original one from factory, because there was no BMW logo or part number on the part, but at least I knew the manufacturer and this time I decided to go with FTE, instead of anything else. The FTE part number for mine is: KN22050.3.2 BMW part number: 21526775924 I noticed it's a lot lighter compared to the Sachs unit, because FTE part is actually made of aluminium, rather than cast iron. Had to order it from Mister Auto in France on eBay, as couldn't find it anywhere else, but it was less than 50 pounds, including delivery, so I was happy with that. Now this time we actually removed the clutch fluid bottle and cleaned it from all the grease/dirt properly, before pouring in the new fluid (Pagid DOT4 brake fluid) and bleeding the system. Also might be worth just buying a new bottle, because it doesn't cost much, but otherwise the old one can be re-used, assuming it's not damaged or leaking. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a few photos while we were cleaning the bottle, so you could see the state of it, but now it's crystal clean: Hate doing the same job twice, but it's a bit difficult to say what was exactly the problem here - the quality of the part or the condition of the fluid. Anyway, moving onto the alternator/starter work, you'll have to remove the air filter box and cooling pipe for the alternator, so you can get access to it. IMPORTANT: make sure you disconnect the battery BEFORE doing any work on the alternator/starter. There are 2 bolts holding it in place - the top one also secures the idler pulley, which should be checked and renewed, if necessary. We replaced mine when we did the first major service back in 2016, so it's all good there. I couldn't believe that I still had the original alternator from factory - the back cover had a stamp of the BMW/Bosch part numbers, along with the voltage rating and the production date being 33/92, meaning the 33rd week of 1992. Do you think alternators made nowadays will last that long? Forget about it. Out of interest, we decided to check the state of the voltage regulator, so we removed the back cover and took it out. Indeed the brushes were worn, but the alternator still worked, although was a bit noisy. Also note, the voltage regulator was made in GB, not Germany, which was quite surprising. Sometimes I kick myself for replacing the original parts, which are still in reasonable condition, because you never know, maybe with a new pulley, a few bearings and a new voltage regulator, this alternator could've done another 100k miles? Have to mention that the bottom metal bushing on the replacement alternator wasn't exactly ideal, because it wasn't securing the alternator to the block properly due to the way it was fitted, so we had to take this bottom bushing out of the original alternator and install it on the new one. Goes to show the quality of the modern units. Once done, we put the new alternator in place, connected the wires and moved to the starter motor. Due to the very limited access to the starter motor, I couldn't really take any photos. However, we disconnected the wires from under the bonnet, and removed the starter from underneath the car. Since it was the older design, being secured with bolts and nuts, it was a bit awkward trying to hold the nuts on the engine side while undoing the bolts with multiple extensions. It can be done with some patience and the right tools, so there's no need to remove the intake manifold while doing this. As this is the longer starter motor with plain mounting holes, there was also the bracket that we removed, which supports the rear section of the starter motor on the block. If you have purchased the updated, shorter starter motor with threaded mounting holes, then you will no longer need this bracket and it can be removed. The installation of the new starter was really easy, because it is secured in place with bolts only from the gearbox side and that's it. Some photos of the starter motor removed, most likely the original one from factory with an engraved part number (12411726463, made by Magneti Marelli), not the cheap stickers they put on parts nowadays... Most likely, there won't be any further updates this year, as there's nothing important that needs to be done right now. As I previously mentioned, it could do with a replacement catalytic converter, but I'm a bit hesitant replacing the original unit that lasted 25+ years with some modern crap that comes with 2 years warranty. Upgrading the rest of the exhaust shouldn't be a problem, as you can easily get something custom made or I remember Jetex had a cat-back kit available, but seems like they have discontinued it now. Yes, the bodywork definitely needs some attention, mainly the rear arches and the front jacking points - nothing catastrophic, but clearly the sooner you do it, the better. Possibly rear wheel bearings, although they are not noisy yet, however I replaced the front ones 2 years ago, so the rears should ideally be done as well. The door cards are falling apart - probably the best thing to do, just get a used set from a facelifted model in good condition, where BMW have fixed this problem. The headliner is still sagging at the back, but I'm not sure if I'm going to bring myself to doing it... Clearly, there is some work to be done, but all of the above doesn't affect the way the car drives at the moment, with the exception of the cat converter/exhaust, so let's see how it goes and whatever happens, you'll be the first to find out. Thanks for following and all your help.
  11. Blackman

    E34 Brake Pedal Spring Noise

    Seems like this problem is not so common, as I have thought? No other E34 with this issue or someone who experienced it in the past? Was hoping to get to the bottom of this...
  12. Blackman

    E34 Brake Pedal Spring Noise

    Old thread bump, but I've found a video that exactly describes my problem, although it's on an E39? See this video > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqAZpfe7ZsY Is this common on E34s? I haven't changed my rear wheel bearings yet, but the front ones are new, so would that be the solution?
  13. Blackman

    Taking on an E34 1991 520

    E34s are pretty simple cars compared to modern crap - even if you maintain it in a local independent garage, it won't cost you thousands to keep it on the road. As long as the body is free of any major rust, then get it serviced, sort out all the basic things that it needs and it will go on forever.
  14. Any fluid leak around the clutch pedal area? Could be the clutch master cylinder? As for the gearbox fluid, assuming you've got the 5-speed ZF gearbox, then see ZF's recommendation here > https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemedia/lol-lubricants/lol-en/lol-te-ml-11-en.pdf See the section for S5-31.
  15. No updates for a long time, but nothing happened lately, so there wasn't anything to write about. As planned, I decided to get a replacement Bosch 140A alternator and a new Bosch starter motor, just to be on a safe side, and avoid any unnecessary breakdowns in the future. Purchased everything from EuroCarParts, as it was all readily available, so no troubles there. I was quite surprised that my basic E34 had a 140A alternator, since I've got no A/C, no fancy equipment (unless a sunroof is considered fancy), but turns out mine has the so called "Reinforced Power Supply", hence the reason for a 140A alternator. This meant that if dealers wanted to offer any additional extras to customers, such as heated seats or cruise control, they could've added these options at the dealership without having to upgrade the alternator. Interesting stuff to know... The current BMW part number for a E34 140A alternator is: 12311744567 The Bosch exchange alternator that I've bought is: 0986039000 Things weren't so straightforward with the starter motor, because after doing some research I found out that there were 2 types of starter motors fitted to E34s and other BMWs from the same era, such as the E36. So basically you can have a starter with plain bolt holes, meaning that the securing bolts go through the starter and are held with nuts from the engine side....Or you can have a starter with threaded bolt holes, which is slightly shorter and has reinforced "ears", so using the bolts only is sufficient enough and there's no need for any nuts. Due to the length of the starter with plain bolt holes, it also has a supporting bracket, which I believe bolts to the block, and helps to balance the weight of the starter, so it won't crack around the ears where the bolts go. Long story short, it seems like that the starters with plain bolt holes were fitted to earlier models in general, while later ones were upgraded to the newer starter design, which was also subsequently used on E46, E39, etc. If you are interested and would like to read more about this, here are 2 useful links from Bimmer Forums and M3 Forum: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?558140-Replacing-your-starter-in-an-E36-Read-this! http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=271146 Having done plenty of digging, I'm confident that these starters are interchangeable, but I will know for sure once fitted, so hopefully I haven't messed up by buying a threaded starter, as I'm pretty sure mine is a plain one, as I can just about see the securing nuts under the bonnet. The current BMW part number for a E34 525i starter is: 12412354709 The Bosch exchange starter motor with threaded holes that I bought is: 0986017110 Also decided to get new starter motor bolts and washers, just in case if the old ones are knackered. You will need x2 torx bolts, BMW part number: 07129904681, and x2 wave washers (BMW part number: 07119904463) Hopefully, will get these fitted by the end of July and will take a few photos in progress as well. Apart from this, there isn't much left that I would like to do on the car - some issues still remain, such as the loose headlining and the rip on the base of the driver's seat, but not sure when I'm going to bring myself to get that done....Similarly, the bodywork is a bit rusty in a few places, but again, I've never really paid much attention to these kind of things, as I've always been concerned about how the car drives, rather than the aesthetics. Anyway, we'll how it goes, but for now I don't have any crazy plans for the future...Or maybe put a new cat and a decent exhaust? Decisions, decisions.
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