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Blackman

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Blackman last won the day on December 28 2019

Blackman had the most liked content!

About Blackman

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    London, UK

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    E34 525i SE Manual

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  1. Blackman

    Ignition Coils

    My coils must've been replaced back in 1998 or thereabouts, as the car is 1992, but mine were all dated 1998 with BMW and BREMI stamped on them - no issues whatsoever, but that's BREMI from 1998. I replaced mine with BERU last year just for preventative maintenance, while I was doing a service. I would've thought the quality of BREMI parts should still be good today, as they are an OEM supplier? Even with decent manufacturers, you can still get faulty parts as it can happen to any company, but how do you know they weren't counterfeit? Did you get them from a good source?
  2. Blackman

    Nice low miles e34 535i

    I put my hands up on the leather seats - could be original, but Tech 2 wheel on an SE? I would've expected the regular 4-spoke non-airbag wheel or the "sportier" 3 spoke steering wheel (non M-tech)... Possibly, it's been retro-fitted, not a big deal at all...I think when I saw those door cards, I started looking for other things that didn't look right.
  3. Blackman

    Nice low miles e34 535i

    Door cards look like an amateur bodged up job to me. The steering wheel clearly doesn't belong there and also looks re-trimmed. I'm not 100% sure if the leather seats are original? They don't come up as listed under options, unless they were a standard fit? The leather on the seats looks a bit too thin and really fresh - a possible re-trim as well or they are just in very good condition, given the mileage? Still, a nice and clean car overall.
  4. Blackman

    BMW E34 - SE to Sport Suspension HELP

    Can't see a point in upgrading SE suspension to genuine Sport, when there's a huge choice of aftermarket options at a lot more reasonable prices. Look into various suspension kits made by Bilstein, Eibach, etc.
  5. As unique as these are, I personally think 20's are a bit of an overkill, even for a 7 series (E38), let alone a 5 series... I would say the oldest BMW that can possibly get away with having 20's is the E65, otherwise any other older model looks a bit silly...Well, unless you're a "looks over everything else" kind of guy...
  6. Blackman

    That BMW smell...

    You're not the only one who likes "that old BMW" smell... I loved it in my E30 and couldn't get enough of it, especially on a hot day or early in the morning on a cold day. The E34 smells slightly different, but I still like it. I've always wondered if the smell could somehow be replicated and produced as an air freshener? I wouldn't be surprised if there was a high demand for this kind of thing among modern classic BMW owners... I would say this only applies up to E30/E32/E34/E36 models....Anything after that smells completely different, nothing special really.
  7. Blackman

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Just read your December 2019 update...Unless I missed something, so what was the cause of the clutch fork breaking? It's not a serviceable item and it's a bit strange for it just to break like that for no reason? I did replace mine on a E34 when I did the clutch, but thought it was pointless, as you'd think these things are supposed to last forever anyway?
  8. Blackman

    hids are confusing

    If the kit was sold as "plug and play", then you can just return it and ask for a refund, because clearly that's an incorrect socket. As for taking out cables, splicing wires, etc, it's a bit more work involved, but clearly that's not what you paid for, so you can easily ask for your money back.
  9. Finally, we managed to get rid of that annoying ABS issue, which was triggering the ABS at low speeds/coming to a stop for no reason and lately it was happening almost at every stop. Turns out we were right about the fact that since the driver's side rear ABS sensor wasn't reacting properly to vehicle movement, that was the cause of the problem. And once we've taken it out and had a look at it, it was no wonder why it was malfunctioning. You will need to move away the brake caliper and disconnect the brake pad wear sensor to have enough room to be able to remove the ABS sensor. Same as on the front, there is just one screw holding it in place and the plug goes into the body/under the rear bench from the outside - just follow the wire and you'll find it. It does take quite a bit of wiggling to remove the sensor from the knuckle, so you'll need plenty of WD40 and some patience. Here you can see the state of the old sensor and how it looks compared to the replacement one. I'm not sure what exactly caused the indentations around it, but it definitely didn't look healthy to be able to work properly. Before putting in the new sensor, make sure to clean the slot in the knuckle where the ABS sensor goes into (rough sandpaper will do), then blow out the debris and put a bit of dielectric/silicone grease on the round surface of the sensor, which will make it easier to slide it in and protect it from any corrosion. All installed, nice and clean. After replacing the sensor, we checked for any fault codes, but there were none, and as soon as I moved/parked the car, I knew the problem was gone, because otherwise the ABS would've triggered while manoeuvring at low speeds. Feels so unusual now not hearing that stupid spring bouncing noise at every traffic light - drove me crazy in the last few months, when it got more common. However, it was a bit too early to get excited, because seems like after removing/re-fitting the brake caliper, it somehow decided to stop working properly, with the piston getting stuck, squeezing the brake pads against the disc all the time, and obviously heating up the wheel. It happened the same day and when I got home, I knew that brake burning smell coming from the OSR wheel wasn't right... Anyway, decided not to mess around with refurbishing my caliper and just get a reconditioned PAGID one from ECP, which was only 50 pounds, so can't go wrong with that. Was pleased to find out that the PAGID caliper was actually a genuine BMW/ATE unit, but just reconditioned - so that's all good there. The PAGID part number for the OSR brake caliper is 77514 and also make sure to keep your old caliper for a return, as there is a surcharge on these. There was nothing catastrophically wrong with my caliper, apart from the fact that the rubber seal on the piston has failed, causing the dirt to build up around the piston, and over time it just got worse, so it was only a matter of time until it would completely seize. I re-used the bleeding valve cover from the original caliper, as it has a loop to hold the brake pad wear sensor wire, so it wouldn't dangle around - I know, I'm sad. All assembled, everything working good and back to normal. Don't have any huge plans for the next few months - might do an oil change, as I think I will be reaching 5k miles since the last change soon. Also seems like I will need to do wheel alignment again, because it's slightly out at the moment, and I noticed a bit of shoulder wear on the passenger side front tyre as well. Clearly, driving around London with a B12 kit and 17" wheels on low profile tyres doesn't do any good. Sometimes, I think about going back to nice and comfy original 15's, but don't really want a bouncy ride again...Decisions, decisions. Overall, I'm happy how the car is at the moment, so just going to enjoy driving it for the next few months without doing any further work. Yes, I know the headliner is sagging, yes, the driver's seat base is torn and yes, the body is rusty in a few places, but it's something that I can live with for the time-being. A full cat-back exhaust with a new catalytic converter would be useful too, but I like the current sound of the car as it is, so that can wait for now. Thanks everyone for following and hope you can pick up useful tips from my posts.
  10. Blackman

    central locking / rear doors don't lock

    What I know for certain is that there is a separate actuator for each door, but they are different for front/back. I would suggest looking up various E34 central locking problems in Google and see what you find.
  11. Blackman

    central locking / rear doors don't lock

    What is the position of the pins on the doors? Can you pull them up/push down? Does that make any difference? Could be the door lock actuators, but surely it can't be that both failed at the same time? Here's a video:
  12. Was a bit bored after the last update and thought I could get a few more small things done before the end of the year... Decided to look into the issue of the ABS triggering for no reason at low speeds, which doesn't seem to be a common problem, but I managed to find a few vague threads online, although nothing specific. Started with the most obvious thing and did the OBD scan, which surprisingly came up with a fault code for the driver's front ABS sensor. To be honest, I haven't read much about ABS sensors going wrong on E34s, but still decided just to replace it to avoid any future problems with it. Looked up the part number for the front ABS sensor, which is 34521181839, and I initially thought about ordering a Bosch one from Germany, but turns out BMW's price was pretty much the same, so decided to go directly with BMW and also purchased the bolt (07129905867) and the washer (07119932099) for the sensor as well. The sensor was around 90 pounds. As expected, the BMW's sensor is made by Bosch and it's basically the exact same thing - it doesn't even have BMW's logo on it. In case, if you would like to order one directly from Germany, the Bosch part number is: 0 265 001 339. Notice this part number is stamped on the sensor. While I was at BMW, I decided to pick up a replacement CCM module, thinking it would be an easy fix for the bulb-out warning lights that I'm getting as I soon as I put the lights on. I read on the forum that this is a common problem, but bare in mind the unit is quite pricy at 100+. One strange thing that I've noticed with this module, is that if you try to look up the number, which is stamped on the part (61352942287), it doesn't actually come up on RealOEM as a part from the catalogue. However, if you search it on Google or eBay, then there are many results for it, because naturally you would think that's the part number. Turns out, the current valid part number on RealOEM for the check control module that you see below is: 61351388614. It's really easy to replace it, because it's located in the fusebox under the bonnet. You just pull the tab securing the fusebox cover to unlock it, then remove the cover and you'll see all the fuses, some relays and 2 modules - one is the CCM (check control module) and the other is LKM (light control module). To replace, you just pull out the old one and push in the new unit into the slot. The good thing is that it took 30 seconds to change it, but the bad news are that it made no difference whatsoever. To be honest, I haven't really looked into this fault too deeply, as I know it could be damaged wiring in the boot or you could just disconnect the headlight adjusters to get rid of the fault, but I thought I would try this first and hoped it would be the end of it....Looks like, I was wrong. As for the ABS sensor, I got it changed a few weeks ago, the fault is now gone and doesn't come up anywhere, but unfortunately the problem is still there. When doing the OBD scan again, we looked up the individual readings for each ABS sensor while slowly driving the vehicle and noticed that for some reason the driver's rear ABS sensor doesn't register a reading when moving off. It does work, but it doesn't come alive immediately, like all the other 3 do, so that could possibly be the issue triggering the ABS at low speeds? Makes sense, but we won't know until we replace the rear sensor and see how it goes from there. Ordered and picked up the rear ABS sensor (34521181456) from BMW, which was slightly pricier than the front one, at around 120, but strangely enough, a Bosch one wasn't available from Germany - you could only get one made by Hitachi, albeit at half the price of the genuine one. The securing bolt and the washer are the same as for the front. Managed to find the BMW logo on this sensor, but couldn't find a manufacturer name or part number, unless BMW make it themselves, which is quite rare nowadays? Unfortunately, I didn't get the time to replace the rear sensor yet, so that will be the first thing to be done in 2020. Let's hope it will help to finally get rid of this stupid ABS problem, which can get pretty annoying, especially if you do regular short trips in medium traffic, which is exactly what I do. As per my previous update, I don't have any huge plans for 2020, so we'll see how it goes. All the major servicing/maintenance work has already been done, but you know what it's like with old BMWs - there's always something that you can tinker with. Enjoy your holidays everyone and Happy New Year!
  13. Blackman

    '94 540i Touring 6spd - The Money Pit!

    Flat 16's look miles better than those deep-dish BBS's and I would definitely stick with those - also being 17", they are quite rare.
  14. Blackman

    E34 Brake Pedal Spring Noise

    Apparently, I had a fault code for the driver's front ABS sensor, so I bought and replaced it. The fault code has now gone, but the problem with the ABS triggering at low speeds is still there. We've checked the ABS sensors operation, while the vehicle is slowly moving, and turns out the driver's rear ABS sensor is a bit slow to react to vehicle movement.... So as soon as the car moves, all the 3 other sensors will start showing a reading, whereas the driver's rear only comes up when you go slightly quicker, but this is all at almost stationary speed, not even 2 mph. I can't seem to find much info on ABS sensors failing on E34s? Is it actually common? Should I just go ahead and get a sensor for the rear now? With such limited diagnostics as above, I'm not confident buying a new sensor, as not sure if it will solve the problem.
  15. Blackman

    Headliner fabric source?

    You could pop into to your local trimming company and see what they have on offer? They could show you different samples available and might be worth letting them do the work, rather than try to bodge it yourself....Although, if you are confident, then that's a different matter.
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