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Everything posted by Dbcrd

  1. Dbcrd

    Rear air bag rubbing

    I also did a load of research on this when i changed the bags on the rear of my 530i sport. Fitted arnott and very happy. The fact there is not a sport specifc arnott was not a problem for me. They work fine on my car as far as i can tell. Note that the bags alone arent really the "springs" its also the receiver tanks that the air is compressed into. At least that is what i think. How much volume of air gets compressed for a given defection.
  2. Dbcrd

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Door rubber strips with m logo. Wheels style plus m logo. Springs. Shocks. Rear air bags (academic) Maybe more.
  3. Dbcrd

    Any one else had a recall letter?

    Doubt there would be any e39s still on the road with the original hedgehog anyway. Sad to see they still haven't learnt re. The Blower regulators. E93 came after e39 and you would have thought that they would have fed the issues back to the designers.
  4. Dbcrd

    E39 head unit

    Not me 're. The shark fin sorry. Having researched dab in cars it didn't look like it would be easy to get it to work and I wouldn't put a shark fin on my touring.
  5. Dbcrd

    E39 head unit

    I'm with Andyry200. Fitted a Chinese head unit over a year ago and am happy with it. Reverse cam in a touring also. Did it so it looks like the OEM above the number plate. By some accounts the quality of these units has come up over time and there are less issues these days. For peace of mind I bought mine from a bona-fide uk dealer with a years guarantee and support. Cost a bit extra over buying one on eBay but the service was good when I had questions. I don't think they look that cheap - similar to modern units I've had in hire cars I think. Head Units - OEM-Style Fit - BMW - Page 1 - Audio Tech Direct https://audiotechdirect.com/oem-style-units/bmw/
  6. Dbcrd


    I've been using 16 inch Goodyear winter tyres from November to March for over ten years since I got the car. Changed a couple a year or two ago due to wear. I switch back to the 17 inch wheels and conti tyres for the summer. Massive difference with the winter tyres. It's still a fairly powerful rwd automatic though so not always glued to the road if there is ice.
  7. Dbcrd

    What inspires you with your car ?

    How much was the Noco. When I checked they seemed to be ago I £150 Much more than the car battery itself. Wondering about getting something like this but they seem fairly costly.
  8. Dbcrd

    It’s time to address the rust

    Loadmaster on here recommended a place near Gatwick a while back - you will get it by searching the forum. Otherwise you could call Mark at MJF in Holmwood near Dorking. In my view the best indie in the area and ask whom he recommends.
  9. I agree. I like soldering been doing it since the late 70s as a kid. The only thing I found was that my old antex 25w soldering iron didn't get the joints hot enough for the flow you need for a good joint. Probably as I was doing the work outside with an extension lead. So I used a gas powered iron I bought from Lidl or aldi and it worked fine. Other thing I found was the modern lead free solder I used was useless for making good joints. So I used some old ersin multicore I had hanging around. Last time I posted on this topic on this forum quite a lot of people disagreed and came out in favour of crimps. Each to their own.
  10. I had the same problem. So maybe worth sharing experience. I've done both sides of my car tailgate at separate times using a specialist pre-made silicon harness I bought on ebay. They cost about 40 pounds but are very flexible and don't split like the originals. You remove the speakers in the headlining and join at that end. Then join down the channel. I staggered the joins down the channel so as to be able to get the trim back on. Soldered and heatshrink rather than crimps because they are bulky and not great unless a quality ratchet tool is used. Various people objected to soldering instead of crimps because the join is brittle. I've had no problem as it's not in a place where any flex takes place. Ran some silicone wire down for the reverse camera at the same time. Fiddliest job is refitting the plastic covers over the hinges that the wires run through.
  11. Dbcrd

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Sometimes it was only 65 degrees. On the display only not actual heat coming out luckily . Went out in the car today and new panel seems ok so far. I think you were right. If buying off ebay buy from a breaker not an individual. Why would an individual have a spare one.
  12. Dbcrd

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Yesterday I fitted the third replacement heater control panel. This time from rotrip ad recommended by Dan 1979. I fitted a new battery last week. Definitely helps the car but didn't fix the misbehaving heater panel. The heater panel was a bargain price as some buttons were missing. No problem. Swapped out with buttons from one of the three old ones. Let's see of this one stops by heater panel switching on and off and displaying 75 degrees centigrade amongst other things.
  13. +1 on that. Plus if you polybush some say you have to do everything of you overseers the remaining rubber bushes. I also heard stories of damage to aluminium subframes as there's less damping in them.
  14. I'd add TRW to that list. My understanding is Lemforder and TRW are the BMW oem suppliers buy ready to be corrected. Also I think there are two types / categories of meyle one good and the other less so. Others may know.
  15. Dbcrd

    Am I being fleeced

    Too old to want to get under the car on the drive anymore so I use two different garages for my car. Still do stuff above ground level. I use a low hourly rate one nearby staffed by people from Bulgaria. One of the mechanics runs an e39 which helps. For complicated stuff I use an ex bmw indie further away who has higher rates. I wouldn't think a regulator change is that complicated for an average local garage so long as they seal the vapour barrier up properly. You could buy the part yourself and supply to the garage but it's a risk. Maybe better to discuss and make sure they've got the right part. I quite often provide the parts to the garage to fit. Works out cheaper but if I get the wrong part which I have done then problems start. Plus if the new part is defective I have to pay again for Labour. It's possible to run these cars and them be reliable but it's not cost free. Pre-emptive maintenance can be needed.
  16. Dbcrd

    Another one saved

    Good luck with it. Sometimes wonder why I'm running an 18 year old car when i could maybe get a new.passat or something. Hired many new cars for work so I know. Then I get in and drive the e39 and I know. I've had e28 and e34 before but never for as long and both great but the e39... Enough said.
  17. Dbcrd

    Another one saved

    Wonderful to see this. Best car ever made so some say and the last truly diy fixable bmw 5. Tried a few so I know what I think. I've been spending similar on mine because I couldn't bear to change to a newer car. Great.
  18. You need to get the hole in the right place. I found a post on the internet with measurements I think.
  19. I've not had time to read all of this in detail so may be repeating. This is what I did in any case. There is a blanking plug under the tool tray concealing the green pull cord to open the entire tailgate. That's well known about. No need to remove the plastic trim panel inside the tailgate. To be able in future to easily open just the glass use a hole saw to cut a hole of about 25mm diameter. Go slow and careful so as not to snag the foam on the other side. Fill with appropriate size plastic or rubber plug / blanking cap. See attached photos. The first is the factory cap the second the cap for the window. The hole is to the left of the tool tray hinge. You can go in through that hole and trip the mechanism with a screwdriver or similar.
  20. E39 530i Touring Sport Auto 07/2002 Advice needed - Just started having problems with Climate control. Aircon works fine for cooling but stuck in terms of control. First it was stuck at 18 degrees with display working but none of the buttons illuminated or responsive. Now it seems to be in Auto mode and stuck on 16 deg- though none of the buttons on the left (auto, up down etc. ) or the temp controls in the middle are illuminated or responding, The only button that works in the middle now is the Max button. Blasts at max when pressed and back to what seems like auto at low blower speed when pressed again. The buttons on the right seem to work (ac on off, heated screen etc.) When I got the car I changed the FSU for one from Motormec because the blower speed was erratic and it has been fine up to now. But that was a long time ago (nearly 10 years). Any ideas would be much appreciated. Would it be FSU again? If so any recommendations re. brand/supplier?
  21. Dbcrd

    E39 Climate Control Panel Help Needed

    So I'll plug the yellow one back in then. Thanks again for the vendor recommendation. Very happy with that.
  22. Dbcrd

    E39 Climate Control Panel Help Needed

    Thanks for the advice. Very good company. Battery arrived and fitted. I also bought a ctek to keep it topped up. Whether It fixes the climate not sure but peace of mind over the 5 year old varta fitted by the rac 5 years or so ago. They didn't plug in the vent pipe I noticed. Question..there were two plugs the note with the battery said remove. A red one on the side near the positive terminal. I removed that and plugged the vent tube into the hole there. Should the yellow one stay unplugged. No tube on that side that I could find?
  23. Dbcrd

    Ashtray speed

    Actually it's a simialr cog based mechanism to the lighter socket in the tray forward of the gear stick. By the way the ash tray insert can be changed for a coin holder. (Ash tray delete option) which is what I did.
  24. Dbcrd

    E39 Climate Control Panel Help Needed

    Much appreciated. Have you used that company. As long as they've a good turnover the price looks good.
  25. Dbcrd

    E39 Climate Control Panel Help Needed

    Simon doesn't have a panel at the moment. Of course checked today and panel works ok. Starting to suspect the battery. It's been in the car at least 3 years probably over 5. 11.3 volts on the head unit just now. Plus a window opened 1/2 an inch by itself (we think) last week.