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I also did a load of research on this when i changed the bags on the rear of my 530i sport. Fitted arnott and very happy. The fact there is not a sport specifc arnott was not a problem for me. They work fine on my car as far as i can tell. Note that the bags alone arent really the "springs" its also the receiver tanks that the air is compressed into. At least that is what i think. How much volume of air gets compressed for a given defection.

Door rubber strips with m logo. Wheels style plus m logo. Springs. Shocks. Rear air bags (academic) Maybe more.

Doubt there would be any e39s still on the road with the original hedgehog anyway. Sad to see they still haven't learnt re. The Blower regulators. E93 came after e39 and you would have thought that they would have fed the issues back to the designers.

Not me 're. The shark fin sorry. Having researched dab in cars it didn't look like it would be easy to get it to work and I wouldn't put a shark fin on my touring.

I'm with Andyry200. Fitted a Chinese head unit over a year ago and am happy with it. Reverse cam in a touring also. Did it so it looks like the OEM above the number plate. By some accounts the quality of these units has come up over time and there are less issues these days. For peace of mind I bought mine from a bona-fide uk dealer with a years guarantee and support. Cost a bit extra over buying one on eBay but the service was good when I had questions. I don't think they look that cheap - similar to modern units I've had in hire cars I think. Head Units - OEM-Style Fit - BMW - Page 1 - Audio Tech Direct https://audiotechdirect.com/oem-style-units/bmw/

I've been using 16 inch Goodyear winter tyres from November to March for over ten years since I got the car. Changed a couple a year or two ago due to wear. I switch back to the 17 inch wheels and conti tyres for the summer. Massive difference with the winter tyres. It's still a fairly powerful rwd automatic though so not always glued to the road if there is ice.

How much was the Noco. When I checked they seemed to be ago I £150 Much more than the car battery itself. Wondering about getting something like this but they seem fairly costly.

Loadmaster on here recommended a place near Gatwick a while back - you will get it by searching the forum. Otherwise you could call Mark at MJF in Holmwood near Dorking. In my view the best indie in the area and ask whom he recommends.

I agree. I like soldering been doing it since the late 70s as a kid. The only thing I found was that my old antex 25w soldering iron didn't get the joints hot enough for the flow you need for a good joint. Probably as I was doing the work outside with an extension lead. So I used a gas powered iron I bought from Lidl or aldi and it worked fine. Other thing I found was the modern lead free solder I used was useless for making good joints. So I used some old ersin multicore I had hanging around. Last time I posted on this topic on this forum quite a lot of people disagreed and came out in favour of crimps. Each to their own.

I had the same problem. So maybe worth sharing experience. I've done both sides of my car tailgate at separate times using a specialist pre-made silicon harness I bought on ebay. They cost about 40 pounds but are very flexible and don't split like the originals. You remove the speakers in the headlining and join at that end. Then join down the channel. I staggered the joins down the channel so as to be able to get the trim back on. Soldered and heatshrink rather than crimps because they are bulky and not great unless a quality ratchet tool is used. Various people objected to soldering instead of crimps because the join is brittle. I've had no problem as it's not in a place where any flex takes place. Ran some silicone wire down for the reverse camera at the same time. Fiddliest job is refitting the plastic covers over the hinges that the wires run through.

Sometimes it was only 65 degrees. On the display only not actual heat coming out luckily . Went out in the car today and new panel seems ok so far. I think you were right. If buying off ebay buy from a breaker not an individual. Why would an individual have a spare one.

Yesterday I fitted the third replacement heater control panel. This time from rotrip ad recommended by Dan 1979. I fitted a new battery last week. Definitely helps the car but didn't fix the misbehaving heater panel. The heater panel was a bargain price as some buttons were missing. No problem. Swapped out with buttons from one of the three old ones. Let's see of this one stops by heater panel switching on and off and displaying 75 degrees centigrade amongst other things.

+1 on that. Plus if you polybush some say you have to do everything of you overseers the remaining rubber bushes. I also heard stories of damage to aluminium subframes as there's less damping in them.

I'd add TRW to that list. My understanding is Lemforder and TRW are the BMW oem suppliers buy ready to be corrected. Also I think there are two types / categories of meyle one good and the other less so. Others may know.

Too old to want to get under the car on the drive anymore so I use two different garages for my car. Still do stuff above ground level. I use a low hourly rate one nearby staffed by people from Bulgaria. One of the mechanics runs an e39 which helps. For complicated stuff I use an ex bmw indie further away who has higher rates. I wouldn't think a regulator change is that complicated for an average local garage so long as they seal the vapour barrier up properly. You could buy the part yourself and supply to the garage but it's a risk. Maybe better to discuss and make sure they've got the right part. I quite often provide the parts to the garage to fit. Works out cheaper but if I get the wrong part which I have done then problems start. Plus if the new part is defective I have to pay again for Labour. It's possible to run these cars and them be reliable but it's not cost free. Pre-emptive maintenance can be needed.