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HandyAndy_UK

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HandyAndy_UK last won the day on May 31

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About HandyAndy_UK

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany & Other warm places
  • Occupation
    Military Contractor

Garage

  • Garage
    2014 Ex Kent RPU 530d 3.0 Auto F11 Touring

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  1. HandyAndy_UK

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    It's a metal clip on mine too. Got my 'cap socket' for the E61... don't need it now for the F11... still got it though....
  2. HandyAndy_UK

    Headlight restoration

    The one thing I learned from doing this back when I had a Vectra, was to remove the headlight unit from the car. Mask all you like... you WILL damage your paintwork !
  3. HandyAndy_UK

    Heavy/Stiff steering

    I'd be looking at the connections in the engine bay... if something has come loose, any longitudinal play should be pretty obvious.
  4. HandyAndy_UK

    Non RFT tyre pressures G31

    Michelin CrossClimate+ 225/55R 17 101W here ..... saves me having to change to winter wheels to comply with German Law.
  5. HandyAndy_UK

    Non RFT tyre pressures G31

    The standard advice has always been to use the same pressures as rft. The rft part only comes into it when the air pressure can no longer support the vehicle.
  6. HandyAndy_UK

    Heavy/Stiff steering

    Check your power steering fluid level, and check for green oil leakage at the base of the radiator pack. The old build of steering oil cooler is an unprotected S tube, bottom front of the radiator pack and so is exposed to debris. The new design is covered in a mass of cooling fins, so is more effective as far better protected. Replacement isn't that difficult.
  7. HandyAndy_UK

    Engine bay sound proofing mouse problem

    On my F11 I'd go with item 8.... don't fancy the faff of ever having to do it though... https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=5K12-EUR-09-2013-F11N-BMW-530d&diagId=51_7865
  8. HandyAndy_UK

    Steering wheel vibration when braking!!

    With my E61 it turned out to be the front strut top bearings. I had to drop the front shocks while replacing the front hub bearings and when I got my hands on the top bearings I was shocked at the amount of movement in them. Luckily replacements were something like £14 each from ECP at the time, which given I'd already spent a couple of hundred replacing only slightly warped discs, only for the vibration to still be there, I was seriously happy at such a cheap fix. Just a shame the N53 engine, numbers 1 & 2 injectors refused to ever work properly.
  9. HandyAndy_UK

    Strange Water Leak From G31

    Factoring in the outside air that was sucking in by opening the doors, then the steam from the food and multiple people eating in a confined space, I'd say that is a perfectly reasonable amount of condensate and yes, you're overreacting. I'd be more worried about the potential for spurious fries finding their way down the sides of seats.
  10. HandyAndy_UK

    Parking assistance help!

    I know what you mean but I just have visions of driving to Tesco, jumping out by the doors and the car taking itself off to go hunt a parking space
  11. HandyAndy_UK

    How to replace your blower motor f10/f11

    The way I understand it, you might well be right. The drain tube should be below the yellow grommet. A blocked drain allows rising water to leak into the cabin via said grommet, or if the grommet is sound, eventually through the cabin air inlet.
  12. HandyAndy_UK

    F10 LCI Vibrations at 70mph

    The pulsing would be caused by one/both warped discs pushing against the brake pistons as they rotate. That pulsing isn't a good thing, neither is the extra vibration caused by the wobble which will damage other components. Worst of all is the fact your brakes will effectively be off - on - off - on as the warp passes the brake pads. Fronts are stunningly easy to replace on the F10/11 and you replace both discs and pads together. Assuming the discs are undamaged once the new pads wear down, then you'd change only the pads next time around. Typically it's 2 sets of pads to one set of discs, but that can vary depending on many factors. You need to replace the wear sensor when you replace the pads or the service indicator won't reset. Best advice, stick with standard discs and pads - you can get the correct part numbers for your specific build from RealOEM, then shop where you are happiest to avoid BMW prices. Personally, on my 530d I fit ATE all round. For fronts, you're looking about an hours' work assuming you have a cuppa (with biscuits) halfway.
  13. HandyAndy_UK

    How to replace your blower motor f10/f11

    No. In the cavity below is a rubber drain 'tube'. When that gets gunged up any rainwater cannot drain, the level rises to the point it can vent through the blower and/or any firewall grommets.
  14. HandyAndy_UK

    F10 LCI Vibrations at 70mph

    Brakes don't get realigned... If you can feel the pulsing then one or more discs are warped. Time to replace discs, pads and sensor remembering to clean all mating surfaces. Once done properly, you should be good to go probably for the next couple of years, depending on how heavy a braker you are.
  15. HandyAndy_UK

    How to replace your blower motor f10/f11

    Looks like also an excellent opportunity to clean out the scuttle drain on that side too, with the better general access. Nice job
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