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Hippy

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Hippy last won the day on September 8

Hippy had the most liked content!

About Hippy

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  • Location
    Wimborne, Dorset
  • Occupation
    Mobility Engineer

Garage

  • Garage
    e39 525i sport touring,r53 mini cooper s

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  1. Hippy

    E39 anti roll bar swap?

    + 1 I've done exactly the same and agree with the above. I now need to refresh and upgrade the front when time / cash permit, as the standard ( and probably tired ) standard shocks, springs, bushes etc now feel soft and vague in comparison to the rear.
  2. That's good value - I'll have to scurry down to our local store and see if they're doing the same No worries re the HVAC panel. If it eases your pain give me a shout next time your'e down Lyme Regis way ( about an hour from me), and I'll trundle down and let you buy me an ice cream
  3. Morning gents! Contacted various people on here and Evilbay to see if they had a suitable climate control unit for me. Wasted nigh on a week waiting for answers - no replies. Seriously, if you want to sell stuff then at least respond to enquiries. Rant over!! Called a BMW specialist breaker mid week and a second hand unit arrived on my doorstep two days later ( yesterday ). Despite the pouring rain I've just fitted it and hooked up the multimeter to see what the current draw is. With the car in sleep mode I'm now getting a reading of 0.02A, which I believe is acceptable. Can someone confirm this? Hopefully not premature and a little early I know , but I think a celebration is called for.........
  4. As daft as it sounds, lifting the bonnet to see a cable tie holding the valves in place would drive me nuts - OCD??!! I've sent the seller a message to see if he has an exchange item. I will try @Tims to see if he can help - sadly don't have a Facebook account.
  5. So, nice dry day and went to fit the heater valves only to find........ ....broken during transit Are we now thinking it would be worth replacing the HVAC unit as well? Is this where you sourced yours from Dan, or did you dig deep and go for a new item?
  6. To clarify, I only let the car go into sleep mode once. As I only had limited time and a whole heap of fuses to work through, I didn't have the time to allow the car to go to sleep each time I pulled a fuse - 25 ish fuses x 16 mins each!! As stated I'm not great with electrics, so my thought process was to use the 1.18A reading as a bench mark figure to see how pulling fuses altered this . The only time this figure dropped were when fuses 4 and 9 were removed. The heater valves will hopefully be with me for the weekend, so I might as well replace these anyway. Maybe I'll get lucky!! However, how can I prove one way or t'other that the the HVAC unit is functioning correctly? And if the problem does turn out to be the HVAC unit, I'm not sure how to proceed. How can a used item be guaranteed fit for purpose? I should imagine a new item is big bucks
  7. Good idea - I'd forgotten those - they are out of sight behind a flap on the Touring. Just had a quick peek and I can't see any clear indication of which fuse governs what - I'll have a proper look at the weekend when I fit the heater valves. Ref the valves - is there much water loss when changing them? I've read somewhere to swap one hose at a time. Does that mean that the valves are closed until power up ? @d_a_n1979 what was your experience when you did yours?
  8. Yes, hopefully slowly getting there! Unfortunately I'd already ordered a replacement part before I read your message - hopefully be with me for the weekend. Yes, I did check the rear demister, ( fuse 20 if I'm correct ), which read 1.18A as per the majority of the others. Only fuses 4 and 9 affected the reading. Does anyone know if the HVAC unit can be checked / repaired, or is it a throw away item?
  9. Had some time again today to do some further checks....... HVAC unit replaced . Multimeter reading 1.19A Unplugged FSU - still reading 1.19A Unplugged fuses 75 and 76 one at a time - reading 1.19A in both cases Unplugged heater control valves - reading dropped to 0.47A Can I assume then that the heater valves are causing some of the drain? However, when the HVAC unit was removed yesterday the reading dropped to 0.16A . Would this then indicate that the unit is faulty as well as the valves?
  10. @Clavurion and @ttrw2 - thanks for the info. So to clarify - if I plug the HVAC unit back in, what are the other items that this controls that I should be checking? I did replace the Hedgehog with a new Meyle item a few weeks ago when this problem first occurred. The reading dropped to 0.16A when I disconnected the HVAC, but it looks like there are other checks I can do to see if this item is faulty, or it is something else down the line, so to speak. Hopefully @Clavurion and @ttrw2 will confirm what I need to check. If it turns out to be the HVAC unit don't worry, and certainly no need to apologise. It was sent in good faith and your efforts were, and are , appreciated
  11. Ok, I've managed to find time this morning to hook up a multi meter in series to the battery to measure current draw. With everything switched off and the car locked the reading was 1.18A In sleep mode this dropped to 0.74A I removed each fuse in turn and recorded the readings ( with doors shut but not locked ). Most of the time removing an individual fuse still gave a reading of 1.18A , with two exceptions. With fuse 4 removed the reading was 0.8A With fuse 9 removed the reading dropped to 0.16A Looking at the fuse card..... both fuse 4 and 9 relate to more than one item. I concentrated on fuse 9 functions, as this seems to be where the current is being drawn the most. I disconnected the heated washers - the reading stayed at 1.18A Reconnected the washers and disconnected the HVAC unit and the reading dropped to 0.16A Is it safe to assume that this unit is causing the problem? If you recall my initial problem that started this thread was my blower constantly on and my HVAC devoid of power. This occurred after reconnecting a recharged battery. Prior to the battery going flat the HVAC was working ok. The HVAC unit was replaced with what was thought to be a good item and indeed normal functions returned. Should I replace this unit again, or could something else in this circuit potentially be causing the problem? Thoughts as always appreciated!!
  12. Can confirm that this happens. Installed the battery on Tuesday - reading 12.3v. Checked Wednesday morning before work - reading 12.1v. Checked at work mid afternoon Wednesday - reading 12.1v Checked this morning - reading 11.97v Checked mid afternoon - reading 11.98v Is the drop due to the alarm, or do we think there is something causing a small drain on the battery, which I guess at that rate would be a sod to find?
  13. Hippy

    Wheel size and suspension

    I have B6's on the rear of the touring. I refreshed /upgraded the rear suspension, which included the Billies, new suspension arms with polybushes, Aerosus air bags , Meyle HD subframe bushes and an M5 anti roll bar. The whole package makes the rear very taught. Planning to do the same at the front when funds allow!
  14. No sooner said than done!! Managed to get the above on the way home from work. Just fitted - reading 12.3v on install and 13.98v with the engine on at idle, so assume that the alternator is ok. Thought I would measure the voltage before start up tomorrow morning and again after the car has been sat at work all day. Would that be a good indication of any potential battery drain?
  15. Thanks for all the input so far gentlemen - much appreciated! This morning before going to work I took the battery off charge, as the charger was telling me that the cycle was complete. The battery measured 12.95v. Left it disconnected on the bench in the garage. Managed to get home just now for lunch. The battery now measures 12.52v. I also borrowed the Clarke battery load tester from work. The battery comes up as being weak. I assume from this that the battery has been drained one too many times and is giving up the ghost. I guess a plan would be to replace the battery so I have a known good item to continue the search , or could it have caused the original problems ( constant blower and dead HVAC ) in the first place?
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