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535i Andrew

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Everything posted by 535i Andrew

  1. 535i Andrew

    Potential F11 buyer- Winter tyres

    THIS! hence why After I drove my dads F10 with winters on in the standing water on the M74 which I knew used to have the E60 steering wheel shaking in my hand on its summers.
  2. 535i Andrew

    Rear brake pads - leg lifted?

    Looking at my rear pads at the weekend they look circa 4mm and the disc has a lip on it. To me, pads and discs needs replacing. Meanwhile in iDrive land, its quite happily sitting in the green saying 70,000 miles to go. Rear pads were replaced at 34,000 miles before I bought it and I've not even added 20,000 miles to that tally and I'd say they won't make another 14,000 miles. No I don't drive everywhere with the traction control constantly reigning me in either before someone suggests that! And I don't use the cruise. On mine it was green then as the pad sensor indicated wear on the fronts, the first warning as such was a yellow warning at 1,300 miles. It had dropped suddenly from 11,000 miles to 3,000 miles which will have been the sensor wearing thru the stages. I drove it watching the remaining mileage and visually checking the pads until I changed them when the idrive was down to 1,100 miles but still giving a yellow warning. It will go to red warning when a service is overdue.
  3. 535i Andrew

    E39 M5 stolen last night

    Took ten weeks for my first E60 to be found in a residential parking area after it was stolen. Hope yet.
  4. 535i Andrew

    Plastic sheds

    ^that's what I was thinking when I saw the thread title on a car forum.
  5. 535i Andrew

    Holding ball joints

    Nut spliter. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht246-nut-splitter-set/ Been there on the front arms. Took a hacksaw thru the balljoints shank after removing the inner joint from the subframe.
  6. 535i Andrew

    Towing electrics

    @Saftlad, do the reverse sensors on the car fail to disengage when the van is hitched up or when connected to the tester? The testers are notorious in not providing enough electrical load when connected to certain cars. LEDs in testers and on some trailerboards or caravans do not have enough electrical load to work in some situations. Does your caravan has LED reverse lights but conventional filament bulbs for other circuits that could be your issue. As said above usually these systems need to detect the electrical load (resistance) from any two of the external lighting circuits on the caravan so the car knows is towing something. Perhaps it's looking specifically for the load across the reverse light circuit. I would get in touch with the folk that supplied the wiring kit you have fitted in your car. It's not working as intended.
  7. Back in March I cleaned out nearside scuttle drain and I've been wanting to do the offside ever since. Jack up and remove the offside front wheel. You now need to remove the wheel arch liner. There are two large expanding rivets, three smaller expanding rivets and a multitude of 8mm hex bolts to remove. This time I used a punch to drift out the centres to the small rivets. Two rivet centres were lost into oblivion but it was so much easier to remove this time. Two 8mm hex bolts on the vertical lower edge of the wheel arch liner and three bolts on the underside. This rivet is a bit of a pig to get out as its recessed into the plastic trim and the rivet passes thru the wheel arch liner. The head of the rivet broke off and I then drove out the centre shank of the rivet into the front subframe but it managed to fall out as I retrieved it from under the car. Another 8mm hex bolt too. Remove wheel arch liner from under the wheel arch. Be prepared for the contents of the top of the wheel arch landing on your head. This exposes the chassis. Unlike the nearside, there was no evidence of standing water, the scuttle drain must be more effective on this side. That might be due to the design of the scuttle drain flap valve on this side compared to the one on the nearside. The white pipe (which I thought was empty as I had deliberately run down the washer fluid) is the feed pipe to the washer bottle which is tucked in to the left of the picture between the inner and outer wings. There are also a pair of battery cables. Sitting above the washer fluid feed pipe just above the flexible part to the left of the battery cables in the rubber scuttle drain flap valve. Wrestle it out from its position and clean it up. Flush out with a hose the scuttle drain from above. I got in there with a small scrubbing brush which helped to dislodge all these leaves. By the time I had finished the top side of the scuttle drain was back to being silver bodywork colour instead of leaf mould colour. Ignore the sand, I've just reapplied sand to my driveway bricks. Looking down from above thru the hole in the bottom of the scuttle pan after the drain flap valve had been removed. I removed the trim panel (three large expanding rivets) above the brake fluid reservoir which is what is to the right of the picture. The rubber part in the centre of the picture is the rubber grommet the red battery cables pass thru seen below the washer washer bottle feed pipe in an earlier picture. Between the hose and the two cables is leaf mould which I was able to scrub off and return it to silver bodywork. For the life of me I could not get the scuttle drain flap valve back into position without removing the washer bottle feed pipe. Gently unclip the feed pipe from the washer bottle and pull it out, its a tapered fit with a lubricated seal. This is when I discovered that despite having "low washer fluid warning" there is still a considerable amount in the feed pipe and in the bottle which emptied over me! Be careful of the retaining clips on the washer bottle, mine looked slightly stressed. Move the feed pipe away from the drain point to give you a bit more room to get the scuttle drain flap valve into place. When you re-attach it fill it up and check for leaks at the joint. Scuttle drain flap valve back into position, feed pipe still moved out of final position. I gave the inner wheel arch/chassis and the wheel arch liner a scrub clean before putting it all back into position. Make sure the plastic and metal captive nuts for the 8mm hex bolts are all in their correct positions. I gave my wheel a scrub clean with Bilt Hamber before refitting it and I used by digital torque adapter to tighten the wheel bolts. You set the torque and it beeps when you reach it while displaying the torque being applied. I used my 36" long breaker bar which was effortless to tighten them.
  8. 535i Andrew

    Potential F11 buyer- Winter tyres

    I’m a converted winter tyre sceptic. Took me six attempts to get my E60 out my street in the snow once. Winter tyres on the F10 I got out without a hint of wheel slip in the same sort of depth of snow. But what swung it for me was the water shedding abilities of winter tyres. They can shed water better laterally from under the tyre than a summer tyre can. You are more likely to get water than snow in winter in this country. As above it depends where you stay and the need to be able to get out in your car in bad weather. I bought my my car AUC and it came with a second set of winter wheels so I was really lucky. Shouldn't make much difference between manual or auto in the snow as it’s down to the fact if the driver is a moron or not.
  9. 535i Andrew

    Potential F11 buyer- Winter tyres

    Which are notoriously wrong lol! Let us know how you get on.
  10. 535i Andrew

    F10 offside scuttle drain point clean out

    I don’t know how the mud flaps are fitted I’m afraid. Post up a picture or two and we can have a look?
  11. 535i Andrew

    F10 offside scuttle drain point clean out

    Yes you are spot on Dave, I have a selection of sizes of expanding rivets as spares. I just put each part number of the rivets into eBay and it’s buttons for ten at a time. Use realoem for getting the part numbers. I needed spare when I was taking in and out the boot trim to fit my Ctek charging point. I’ve so far come across three different sizes of rivets in the car but only two sizes are needed for this job. It’s just the rear part of the wheel arch liner I remove which is the one that is like a rigid carpet rather than the plastic sections No issues with washing it out without the drain being in place. I have just driven the car 8 hours after finishing this job and all was well.
  12. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Cleaned out the offside front scuttle drain. And while I was in there I double checked which size of cap from my Gunson Eezibleed kit fits the brake fluid reservoir Checked the tyre pressures too, all good.
  13. 535i Andrew

    Potential F11 buyer- Winter tyres

    ^Very good point, as standard Tourings don't come with 9" wide rear rims or 275 size tyres. I'm assuming that the rear rims are 9" wide if it has 275 tyres on it, but as above it should have square set up with 245/45/18 all round on 8" rims. Touring owners have upgraded the rear wheels and fitted 9" wide rear rims with 275 wide rear tyres without issue of the tyre fouling on anything. Worth double checking before you commit to buy the car.
  14. 535i Andrew

    Air dryer rebuilt

    It dries the air after it has been compressed by the compressor before it goes into the air springs. When you compress air, the moisture in the air cannot be compressed so it condenses and needs to be removed from the system or prevented from going any further where it can cause problems. When using compressed air to power air tools or fill air springs in a car, you want the air to be dry and free from moisture which can cause corrosion elsewhere in the air system. After running my 3hp compressor even just once to fill its 50 litre tank, when I undo the drain screw a noticeable amount of water comes out.
  15. 535i Andrew

    Air dryer rebuilt

    Great write up. It's so satisfying to do these things yourself when clearly BMW would say its scrap and charge like a wounded bull for a new one.
  16. 535i Andrew

    Potential F11 buyer- Winter tyres

    Welcome You will struggle to get a decent choice of winter tyre for the rear size on 18" rims. The car you are looking at has a staggered set up with wider tyres at the rear which is quite common (Edit, but only on saloons not the tourings) . 8" wide rims at the front and 9" wide rims at the rear. The guys on here who run a their cars on winters, tend to have a second complete set of wheels with winter tyres fitted and these tend to be a square set up with the same size of tyre and rim width on all four corners. I have run my F10 on 17" winter tyres 225/55/17 (8" rim) all four wheels were the same and I now run it on a set of 18" winter tyres 245/45/18 (8" rim) again all four wheels are the same. Dropping an inch on the rim diameter can give you ££ savings on the tyre price and are more forgiving on the potholes which infect our UK roads even more so in winter. You can buy sets of winter wheels fairly easily from a number of sources. From a few hundred pounds for a set to a couple of grand depending on what you want, new or used etc. Plenty of owners have fitted non rfts and a few carry a space saver.
  17. 535i Andrew

    Brake prices - why so varied?

    I bought genuine BMW front discs, pads and a wear sensor for ~£330 and fitted them myself. I got a nice discount from my local dealer for the discs. BMW quoted me £564 for fitting so I saved over £200 by DIY. Your 535d may even have bigger discs than mine so they can get pricey. You have proper stopping power with the brakes on the big engined stuff. The discs are handed, one for each side on these cars. Euro car parts are rip off. They advertise stuff too expensive and then to give you a discount code or offer a BOGOF on brakes to even begin to come near BMW prices to make you think you are getting a good deal but you may not be. Don't skimp on brakes, spend money on decent parts.
  18. 535i Andrew

    Replacement manifold thoughts

    Premium fuel will help keep injectors clean on a diesel and the current generation of direct injection petrol engines and that's about it. Yearly or 10,000 mile oil change intervals will help reduce coking up of the insides. Half the BMW oil change frequency basically.
  19. 535i Andrew

    Anyone else got a 528i F11?

    They do exist but it's difficult to tell if they are saloon or Touring as "how many left" don't distinguish between saloon or Touring on the F generation but they do with the GT. Plus there is the quirk of them being registered with and without the word Turbo in the description. No auto in the description is obviously manual. 8No. 535i M Sport on the road. https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/bmw_535i_m_sport And 1No. 535i M Sport Turbo on the road. https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/vehicle/bmw_535i_m_sport_turbo and out of those Nine cars some will be saloons! I'm sure there are two manual F11 535i M Sport owners on here.
  20. 535i Andrew

    Rear brake pads - leg lifted?

    Or the sensor wiring has been damaged. Take the offside rear wheel off to check both the pads and sensor wiring.
  21. 535i Andrew

    Key stickers

    Wish I was in the pub. Looking after a very sick littl’un while mum is at work. Better an eBay sticker than a new key fob at nearly £300!
  22. 535i Andrew

    Rear propshaft mount

    Looking on TIS, it implies there is an aluminium flexible coupling to replace the rubber one. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f10-535i-lim_201301/repair-manuals/26-propeller-shaft/26-11-single-multiple-part-propeller-shaft/1Loe7egW
  23. 535i Andrew

    I blame Brexit...

    Or the /// coloured stripes that add 30bhp.
  24. 535i Andrew

    E61 550i - likely starter motor - big job?

    Yes, exhaust manifold needs to come off. Well on the N62 in my old E60 anyway. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e60-545i-lim_200405/repair-manuals/12-engine-electrical-system/12-41-starter-motor-with-mounting/HMdPier
  25. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    That’s just about a full side respray, for a tiny bit of corrosion. But how else would you do it.
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