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535i Andrew

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Everything posted by 535i Andrew

  1. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Apologies, I'm spending your money. SKF are a good quality bearing, Scotrail uses them on most of their modern EMUs although they don't quite have the same potholes in their "roads" tho. Tis only four/8 more bolts but another £160 just like that tho! Go in there once only to do both jobs, unless you've had your tension arm replaced relatively recently before needing a new wheel bearing. Only saying that from experience gleaned on the E60 lower arm balljoints where I ended up using a hacksaw and sure enough the on the F10 the Torx counter hold started to deform as the nyloc gripped fast.... The Torx bit didn't let go as I was using an impact grade bit, but I had to resort to a pair of self locking pliers on the mushroom head of the ball joint (and of course marked it) and basically brute force on the nut to get the nylon part of the nut over the corroded exposed balljoint threads. Don't use an impact wrench on it as if the mushroom head of the ball joint spins up you'll mark the domed seat in the steering knuckle as there are two or three little dints on the domed head of the balljoint on the arm. That plus torquing the bearing bolts 20-120Nm plus 90 deg and the arm bush bolt to 85Nm plus 180 deg, means there is no need to go to the gym. Got a right sweat on doing that job I did.
  2. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Normally picked up by too much play in the bushes or at the balljoint. MOT examiners will spot this. Jack up the car and wiggle that wheel to feel for movement at the ball joint and then get in with a pry bar and check for the excessive movement in the bush. In the case of my front offside tension arm, the bush was starting to crack and I could feel a bit too much play when wiggling the arm by hand.
  3. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Oi cheek. It's not like I'd planned on going in and polishing my big ends. @Munzy123, before you are in there doing the front arms, give some serious thought in replacing the front wheel bearings as you need to take the tension arm out the hub to access one of the four bearing retaining bolt. Remove the front caliper and spin up the hub, if there is any sign of it grumbling get one fitted as you'll only need to take the tension arm back out again and risk damaging it. Tension arm balljoint blocks access to the front lower wheel bearing bolt. M12 spline bit preferably impact grade to resist twisting and damaging the bolt heads. Old style bearing bolts weren't too bad to loosen using a 750mm long breaker bar, Impact wrench whizzed them out after initially cracking the thread lock on them.
  4. 535i Andrew

    Ticked over 80000 miles today

    No indeed, you've obviously not got a Friday afternoon car.
  5. 535i Andrew

    Ticked over 80000 miles today

    Nice, it'd be interesting to know in 80,000 miles what wear and tear items (other than tyres) you've had to replace in that mileage?
  6. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Thanks Mike, no sorry I meant dropping the sump contents, 6.5 litres of LL04. It’s due it’s yearly oil change this month, 1,200 miles since the last one. Stuff this two year change interval nonsense.
  7. They've got air in the system. A spongey brake pedal is quite disconcerting and needs sorting. Its needs the brakes bleeding again. I pushed out brake fluid via the nipples when changing pads and discs in my wife's Focus, but didn't bleed it. On the test drive the pedal was spongey. Bled it and all was well.
  8. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Finished nailing it back together, also replaced the abs sensor bolt (Torx T30 bit 8Nm) replaced caliper cradle bolts (E16 socket 110Nm) replaced brake disc screw (6mm hex 16Nm) and the caliper spring clip making sure it was correctly seated. Test drive it after the new arm and bearings on the offside. Handling was sublime and was noticeably quieter in the cabin, still a noise from the nearside, need to wait till family commitments, Covid19 and weather permit to do the other side. No clonks or vibration felt at all. Waiting on delivery of an oil and air filter too as it's been a year now since the sump was dropped.
  9. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Ya big girls blouse Its an ok job if you've got the right tools, which you can look at in two ways. I don't have the tools, garage it is then. I don't have the tools, so that's the excuse to go and buy more tools, even if if you still get the garage to do it, you can then look at your shiny tools all pristine in your tool box, dreaming one day of actually using them to do a job.
  10. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Hi @bmwmike The bearing I removed today was a FAG. Whilst the new bearings I have are branded ‘febi’ they are actually FAG. FAG are oem I removed a FAG from my E60 and replaced it with a FAG. You won’t go wrong with FAG. The bearings I have came with new bolts as there is a story here…… ……BMW changed the design of the wheel bearing from one that had 4 M12x1.5 bolts which have an M12 Spline (triple square) drive to 4 M12x1.25 bolts which have a Torx Plus T60 drive. The old bolts therefore will not physically fit into the new bearing as the threads are finer and are torqued differently. Tighten to 20Nm Tighten to 120Nm Then tighten a further 90 deg. Managed that with a 750mm breaker bar. The old bearing bolts are only torqued to 80Nm but have thread lock on them. Cannot recommend strongly enough that you should also replace the tension arm as it will most likely be a bitch to remove (essential to get access to bearing retaining bolts) at the balljoint unless recently replaced. The counter hold Torx T50 gave up. As I was using an Impact grade T50 bit it was the balljoint itself that wimped out first forcing the need to use a pair of self locking pliers on the balljoint head before resorting to brute strength to undo the nyloc nut which likes to jam on the exposed corroded threads of the balljoint, despite a wire brushing and soaking in Plusgas. Heat might be the answer to melt the nyloc. Get good quality (impact grade) Torx bits, Torx Plus bits, Spline bits. 24mm ratchet spanner, E20 Torx socket. And I had big Bertha in case of an argument, a 1000mm long 3/4” drive breaker bar for nuts that stalled my impact wrench. Good fun spannering with proper big spanners.
  11. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Yeah it’s was grumbling, nearside is worse tho. Front bearing comes complete with hub flange and mounting flange as one piece. It’s the rear bearings that come as only a bearing and you have to press in your old flange assuming you get it out intact from the old bearing. But I'd be buying a new flange and bearing and press them together before fitting them to the car. Rear bearing is a bit more involved tho.
  12. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Had a few hours of tinker time today. Set about that noisy front offside wheel bearing. To get the bearing out you need to remove the tension arm. So a new one of them went in too. Still got to refit the brakes and then repeat on the other side.
  13. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Oh the irony, coming from a Geordie....
  14. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    True, after all Glasgow Gansta's like an Audi for a "job" or two. Oh wait or were you meaning the E87?
  15. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Realised I'd left it unlocked since probably Sunday. Diddy.
  16. After 50,300 miles my nearside spring failed with an almighty bang. Offside was replaced by BMW AUC warranty at 38,400 miles. Tools used Trolley jack 17mm socket for wheel bolts wheel alignment pins 16mm socket and combination spanner for upper anti roll bar link nut 18mm socket and combination spanner for lower anti roll bar link nut Torx T30 bit for retaining shank on upper anti roll bar shank Torx T40 bit for retaining shank on lower anti roll bar shank 21mm socket for lower strut bolt 13mm 3/8" drive socket and extension bar Plastic trim tool Torx T25 bit for speaker. Small flat screwdriver Large flat screwdriver 6mm Allen key bit for counter holding shocker spindle 3/8" drive ratchet 1/2" drive ratchet and extensions 3/8" torque wrench for sub 30Nm torque settings 8mm socket for wheel arch liner bolts 10mm socket for wheel arch liner (plastic) nuts Various length breaker bars Torque wrench capable of 250Nm (lower shock bolt) 600mm pry bar. Spring compressors and relevant socket or spanner to drive this. The rear spring on the F10 is mounted over the rear shock absorber in a strut type arrangement. It is held at the bottom by a single bolt to the wheel hub carrier and by three nuts on its top mount in the inner rear wing. The top fixings are accessed after first removing the relevant speaker. Before you get mucky you might as well remove the rear speaker to access the top mount nuts. Using a plastic trim tool, gently prise up the speaker cover. This exposes the speaker which it retained by three T25 screws. Using a small screwdriver gently lever out the blue electrical connection to the speaker. Lift up the insulation to expose the top mounts. You will notice a hole in the parcel shelf to the right of the speaker fixing. This allows direct access to that top mount nut. You will need a 3/8" drive 13mm socket and extension to reach this, a 1/2" drive socket may be too wide. I loosened off all three top mount nuts. Jack up and remove rear wheel, I use wheel alignment pins to save my alloys. This revealed the broken spring. To make a bit more room for the strut to come out, I removed the wheel arch liner as I had done on my E60. TIS link for doing that, easy enough but you will get covered in dust! The 8mm bolts that fit in the rear of the liner are slightly longer than the others, and I only had 3 plastic nuts, TIS lists 4. The detail of the lower fixing. The 21mm bolt head is just visible inboard of the bottom of the strut in line with the driveshaft, rear anti roll bar and link, note the gap between the lower arm and the upper rear suspension arm which has the handbrake cables clipped to it. More on this later. Next job is to loosen off the lower strut bolt, 21mm socket. After struggling to get my breaker bar in to crack the bolt loose, I remembered @bmwmike had suggested to remove the rear anti roll bar link to make a bit more room. I initially loosened the top nut with a 16mm socket then using a T30 bit counter hold the balljoint shank while you undo the nut with a spanner. Top link nut out the way, but still insufficient room to get in with my breaker bars as the rear suspension arm is just in the wrong spot. I use a large flat bladed screwdriver to prise off the black clips holding the handbrake cables to the suspension are to prevent them being crushed by breaker bar. Still no joy in getting enough of a swing on my breaker bar as the exhaust rear silencer is also in there to the right of the above picture hindering your swing so I then completely remove the rear anti roll bar link from the car to get more room. The lower fixing on the link is an 18mm nut and T40 Torx bit is needed to counter hold. With the link out the way and much perseverance with rotating the socket on the lower strut bolt I get the lower bolt to crack loose, just! I then get the bolt loose with basically sheer brute force using my 1/2" drive ratchet and extension bar positioned up in between the lower arm inner bushes. If my car was higher off the ground or on a two post lift this is how to get in to undo this bolt. My breaker bars are just too long to swing in the position that my ratchet is in, in the above picture. Would be so much easier on a lift or very high axle stands. The lower bolt comes out, it has a very long thread. The strut remains stuck in the hub, so I can remove the three top mount nuts and leave the strut being held in position by its lower fixing. Using a pry bar I lever the lower mount out of the hub while holding the strut with my other hand to prevent it dropping. The strut has a mushroom head on it and fits into a recess in the hub. Be warned when you release the strut from the hub, the complete hub and suspension arm assembly will rise upwards. To get the strut from under the car, lower the bottom of the strut between the lower suspension arm and the upper rear suspension arm. Having remove the rear anti roll bar link helps with this. While you are lowering it between the arms, push the bottom of the strut inwards so that the top mount clears the wheel arch. Strut out from under the car. Note the arrow on the top mount is directly above the middle of the lower bolt position and you can see the mushroom head of the lower bush that fits into the hub. Looking from the rear of the car forwards, so the arrow is at the rear, between two top mount studs. Broken spring. Now for the dismantling of the strut. Again heeding advice from @bmwmike I mark the position of the top mount in relation to where it came out the car with a red marker pen to indicate the forward most top mount stud. I mounted the strut in my vice to hold it to dismantle it. After taking up the tension on the spring with my spring compressors I then loosen the spindle nut using a 6mm Allen key bit to hold the spindle while using my Draper "Go Through" ratchet and 18mm socket. The lower spring pad which I replaced, has markings on it where the spring should be located. I scratched a mark on the strut to show where the lower spring seat should line up, you can just make out the word "Spring" and an arrow pointing to the end stop on the old lower pad. Once everything is removed from the strut, I check the action of the shock absorber, I push it fully home, feeling for any unevenness but it is as smooth at silk, nothing wrong with the action of the shocker, lower bush showed no signs of wear or cracks. The top mount was all good too as was the bump stop. I cleaned up the components and started to reassemble the strut. Bit of surface rust on the shocker but nothing I was concerned about. I align the new lower spring seat with the mark I made. Using a tip from Haynes on the E60, I make sure the front top mount stud is inline with the shocker spindle and the middle of the lower bolt mount. Torque spindle nut to 27Nm, making sure the thing stays all aligned! To get it back in under the car, its an exact mirror of getting it out. Manoeuver the bottom of the strut between the suspension arms as before and lift it up into the inner wing. My neighbour then appears and puts a new nut on one of the top mount studs. Once all the top mounts nuts are in positioned and done up finger tight, I then lever down the hub to get the lower strut bolt in position. I then get the lower strut mushroom head popped back into the socket on the hub carrier and the new bolt in. Quite easy provided you have maintained the alignment of the top mount/spring position in relation to the lower strut bolt position. I then tighten up the top mount nuts to 28Nm. Knowing that I'm going to struggle to get in to tighten the lower bolt, I give it plenty on my 1/2" drive ratchet. TIS will tell you that this lower bolt needs to be tightened with the weight of the car on its wheels, so I place a jack with a suitable pad (hockey puck) under the hub and lift up to effectively compress the suspension. This has the effect of making the gap widen between the lower suspension arm and the upper rear suspension arm so that you can get in to tighten up the bolt. I have the car high enough in the air to get the lower bolt torqued to 210Nm which is the limit of my 1/2" drive Draper torque wrench which is sufficiently short enough to be moved in a positioned between the lower arm inner bushes. I then get my Teng torque wrench (set to 250Nm) between the two suspension arms to get another partial swing and turn on the bolt a bit more. I just couldn't get enough swing to get any more turns on the bolt. Its probably at 220-230Nm with the angle I did get on it. I can live with that. Refit the handbrake cable clips. Refit the anti roll bar link, I bust my Torx T30 bit torquing these up to 56Nm. Refit the wheel arch liner. Refit wheel. Torque wheel bolts to 140Nm. Lower car back to the ground so you can refit the speaker and its cover easily. Tidy up. Test drive, no issues what so ever, no clonks or rattles, fully composed on cornering. Result Have a beer. Have a shower. Would I do it again? Possibly, but I would need to make sure the car was high enough up to get in vertically between the lower suspension arm inner bushes. Satisfying that I've done another job myself on the car. I will need to replace the rear anti roll bar link nuts and one of the top mount nuts as my butter finger neighbour dropped one into the chassis box section only to be lost forever and I had to reuse one of the old ones. I'll see how I can get the car up on a ramp to tighten up that bottom bolt to 250Nm.
  17. 535i Andrew

    F10 535i Rear spring replacement DIY

    Genuine spring will be just over £100 and a shocker which wants changing in pairs will be about the same price. I'd replace both springs and both shocks especially if you think the shocks are shot. Shocks can be had for not much cash from Autodoc. allow 2-3 hours Labour if car is up on a ramp and they have a proper strut compressor for doing both sides.
  18. 535i Andrew

    Retro fit of OE towing electrics & upgraded 600w fan

    Nice one Andy, all you need now is the ability to charge the battery via pin 12!
  19. Ctek MXS5.0 smart charger (AGM) is to be recommended @d_a_n1979. It's the same as you'd buy from a BMW dealer.
  20. 535i Andrew

    Statutory Vehicle Inspection

    Hmm, might be having one of those 'Bmw moments'. You've tried switching it all off and back on again?
  21. 535i Andrew

    BMW Youtube DIY Content

    Yeah ex plod @marko530d. Can't figure out why it blew tho, must have been the front most bearing that failed that then took out the front main seal. Main bearing failing when on the rev limiter is really unfortunate and unlucky even given its mileage as it will have been well looked after by plod. Unlikely to be the the front main seal failing leading to catastrophic oil pressure loss as in enough for a bearing to overheat, melt and destroy itself, that all happened far to quickly. He has never come back with the final video of his timing chain replacement tho or any further videos of him fixing the main bearing which he alluded too. Might be baked bean cans now of course. Real shame. He's very good. I wonder if he is on here......
  22. 535i Andrew

    Michelin Pilot Sport 4

    All the different types and sizes of tyres I've run on my F10 have all worn very evenly. Such a change from the E60 rears.......
  23. 535i Andrew

    BMW Youtube DIY Content

    Hell yeah! I wish he didn’t gloss over the exhaust and prop shaft removal. I need to do that and his guides are excellent but I appreciate that wasn’t his issue!
  24. 535i Andrew

    BMW Youtube DIY Content

    Ah that’s not so good then.
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