Jump to content

535i Andrew

  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


535i Andrew last won the day on October 25

535i Andrew had the most liked content!


About 535i Andrew

  • Rank
    BMW5 SuperStar
  • Birthday 07/28/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests


  • Garage
    F10 535i MSport Auto

Recent Profile Visitors

13,407 profile views
  1. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Took apart the balljoint end of my old offside tension arm, just to see what was in there. If your gaiter had split (MOT failure) you could replace it, if the gaiter and clips were available as spares. True ball and socket joint inside. I wonder if the balljoint is inserted from the underside (in the pic) then the domed head pressed on. I’ll take a set of bearing pullers to it next time and see if my thoughts are correct.
  2. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Well put it this way the oil wasn’t as black as I’ve seen it after 4 times the mileage and the filter certainly wasn’t as black as I’ve seen them. Today’s filter Picture of filter below removed in 2019 having been installed by BMW in 2018 which was the last time BMW gave it an oil service as per BMW service schedule. Which is noticeable darker but will have filtered oil for ~5,000 miles again only over a year. It’s had yearly oil, oil filter and air filter changes since 2018, purely to keep its insides as clean and as healthy as possible. I don’t look after my own insides as well as I do my car….. I throw all sorts of garbage in there!
  3. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Oil and oil filter change today 6.45 litres of LL04 poured in. and a new air filter too. A year and 1,263 miles since they were last changed. None of this 20,000 mile 2 year service interval. Yearly or 10,000 miles thanks very much.
  4. 535i Andrew

    G30 2017 520D BATTERY

    A new battery will need to be registered to your car so the car knows its got a new battery which will have a different charge/discharge cycle from your old one. Can you please ensure you post in the correct G30 section of the forum. Thanks
  5. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Apologies, I'm spending your money. SKF are a good quality bearing, Scotrail uses them on most of their modern EMUs although they don't quite have the same potholes in their "roads" tho. Tis only four/8 more bolts but another £160 just like that tho! Go in there once only to do both jobs, unless you've had your tension arm replaced relatively recently before needing a new wheel bearing. Only saying that from experience gleaned on the E60 lower arm balljoints where I ended up using a hacksaw and sure enough the on the F10 the Torx counter hold started to deform as the nyloc gripped fast.... The Torx bit didn't let go as I was using an impact grade bit, but I had to resort to a pair of self locking pliers on the mushroom head of the ball joint (and of course marked it) and basically brute force on the nut to get the nylon part of the nut over the corroded exposed balljoint threads. Don't use an impact wrench on it as if the mushroom head of the ball joint spins up you'll mark the domed seat in the steering knuckle as there are two or three little dints on the domed head of the balljoint on the arm. That plus torquing the bearing bolts 20-120Nm plus 90 deg and the arm bush bolt to 85Nm plus 180 deg, means there is no need to go to the gym. Got a right sweat on doing that job I did.
  6. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Normally picked up by too much play in the bushes or at the balljoint. MOT examiners will spot this. Jack up the car and wiggle that wheel to feel for movement at the ball joint and then get in with a pry bar and check for the excessive movement in the bush. In the case of my front offside tension arm, the bush was starting to crack and I could feel a bit too much play when wiggling the arm by hand.
  7. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Oi cheek. It's not like I'd planned on going in and polishing my big ends. @Munzy123, before you are in there doing the front arms, give some serious thought in replacing the front wheel bearings as you need to take the tension arm out the hub to access one of the four bearing retaining bolt. Remove the front caliper and spin up the hub, if there is any sign of it grumbling get one fitted as you'll only need to take the tension arm back out again and risk damaging it. Tension arm balljoint blocks access to the front lower wheel bearing bolt. M12 spline bit preferably impact grade to resist twisting and damaging the bolt heads. Old style bearing bolts weren't too bad to loosen using a 750mm long breaker bar, Impact wrench whizzed them out after initially cracking the thread lock on them.
  8. 535i Andrew

    Ticked over 80000 miles today

    No indeed, you've obviously not got a Friday afternoon car.
  9. 535i Andrew

    Ticked over 80000 miles today

    Nice, it'd be interesting to know in 80,000 miles what wear and tear items (other than tyres) you've had to replace in that mileage?
  10. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Thanks Mike, no sorry I meant dropping the sump contents, 6.5 litres of LL04. It’s due it’s yearly oil change this month, 1,200 miles since the last one. Stuff this two year change interval nonsense.
  11. They've got air in the system. A spongey brake pedal is quite disconcerting and needs sorting. Its needs the brakes bleeding again. I pushed out brake fluid via the nipples when changing pads and discs in my wife's Focus, but didn't bleed it. On the test drive the pedal was spongey. Bled it and all was well.
  12. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Finished nailing it back together, also replaced the abs sensor bolt (Torx T30 bit 8Nm) replaced caliper cradle bolts (E16 socket 110Nm) replaced brake disc screw (6mm hex 16Nm) and the caliper spring clip making sure it was correctly seated. Test drive it after the new arm and bearings on the offside. Handling was sublime and was noticeably quieter in the cabin, still a noise from the nearside, need to wait till family commitments, Covid19 and weather permit to do the other side. No clonks or vibration felt at all. Waiting on delivery of an oil and air filter too as it's been a year now since the sump was dropped.
  13. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Ya big girls blouse Its an ok job if you've got the right tools, which you can look at in two ways. I don't have the tools, garage it is then. I don't have the tools, so that's the excuse to go and buy more tools, even if if you still get the garage to do it, you can then look at your shiny tools all pristine in your tool box, dreaming one day of actually using them to do a job.
  14. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Hi @bmwmike The bearing I removed today was a FAG. Whilst the new bearings I have are branded ‘febi’ they are actually FAG. FAG are oem I removed a FAG from my E60 and replaced it with a FAG. You won’t go wrong with FAG. The bearings I have came with new bolts as there is a story here…… ……BMW changed the design of the wheel bearing from one that had 4 M12x1.5 bolts which have an M12 Spline (triple square) drive to 4 M12x1.25 bolts which have a Torx Plus T60 drive. The old bolts therefore will not physically fit into the new bearing as the threads are finer and are torqued differently. Tighten to 20Nm Tighten to 120Nm Then tighten a further 90 deg. Managed that with a 750mm breaker bar. The old bearing bolts are only torqued to 80Nm but have thread lock on them. Cannot recommend strongly enough that you should also replace the tension arm as it will most likely be a bitch to remove (essential to get access to bearing retaining bolts) at the balljoint unless recently replaced. The counter hold Torx T50 gave up. As I was using an Impact grade T50 bit it was the balljoint itself that wimped out first forcing the need to use a pair of self locking pliers on the balljoint head before resorting to brute strength to undo the nyloc nut which likes to jam on the exposed corroded threads of the balljoint, despite a wire brushing and soaking in Plusgas. Heat might be the answer to melt the nyloc. Get good quality (impact grade) Torx bits, Torx Plus bits, Spline bits. 24mm ratchet spanner, E20 Torx socket. And I had big Bertha in case of an argument, a 1000mm long 3/4” drive breaker bar for nuts that stalled my impact wrench. Good fun spannering with proper big spanners.
  15. 535i Andrew

    What did you do to your F07/F10/F11 today?

    Yeah it’s was grumbling, nearside is worse tho. Front bearing comes complete with hub flange and mounting flange as one piece. It’s the rear bearings that come as only a bearing and you have to press in your old flange assuming you get it out intact from the old bearing. But I'd be buying a new flange and bearing and press them together before fitting them to the car. Rear bearing is a bit more involved tho.