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535i Andrew

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Posts posted by 535i Andrew

  1. 14 hours ago, Boba said:


    I guess you'll still be on the winters for a few days then! :|


    Getting myself up on my two feet to look out the window at my F10 is quite an exertion at the moment :(. So yes no thoughts of changing over yet. Next month hopefully. I think it’s usually early April when I swap them over. 

    Cant wait to get fit again, feeling noticeably better Saturday morning. Got a long list of jobs to do on the car too. Sodding typical weather is better but I’m broken. 

  2. On 18/03/2020 at 14:49, adam- said:


    So YOU'RE the infected one in Lothian?  How is it btw?  As bad as they're making out, or bareble?  I'm hoping it isn't so bad and I'm still functioning, I've got a VR6 Turbo 4mo to finish.

    nope I stay at the other/correct end of the M8 and I’ve not been tested, I’m just sucking it up. Day 4 and it’s still grim. Lifting a two litre carton of milk is about my physical strength limit at the moment. 

  3. 35 minutes ago, Skynet5 said:

    Keep safe dude. 


    Could just be normal flu :-)


    Up until the middle of the afternoon, I was feeling like Ryanair. But now feel like Flybe!



    My wife works amongst other places in her role as a GP, in Glasgow University and for NHS24. She was always going to get it and then share it. 

    Thankfully our wee one is fine. 

  4. On ‎13‎/‎03‎/‎2020 at 16:20, sinner said:

    I have been very impressed with Teng Tools, it's reasonably priced and very good quality. Better even than a lot of the Facom stuff we have at work. They do nice one-piece impact hex and torx sets.  


    I have some Teng Allen Key handles, good quality but I've not really had to use them much with any anger.  The Teng torque wrench I have is a beast, only minor criticism is that the ratchet mechanism isn't very fine making it not ideal in confined situations. 


    Facom is meant to be very good but will be pricey no doubt.

  5. Isn't the Halfords stuff made in the same Chinese shed as the Draper stuff, albeit it with a lifetime warranty?  I'm sure I've read that before. Snapped a Halfords T40 bit doing the lower arms on my E60.  The Halfords stuff I've got has been very good, sold some duplicates on eBay and got reasonably money for them too.


    I have considered the impact bits as I'm looking to invest in an electric impact wrench in the near future.


    Thanks lads

  6. Presumably you tried drifting it out? 

    What might help even with the bolt still in place is take an Allen key that fits snuggly on its opposite flat sides in the gap at the bottom of the strut and turn it so that the Allen key is now point to point on the strut. Basically try and widen the gap, might help with the bolt. Give the head of the bolt a whack when turning the Allen key. 

    My pinch bolts came out easily. The second time it was certainly easier to separate the strut from the hub with the strut, hub and arms off the car. 



    I mounted the strut in a vice then gently tapped in a large flat screwdriver that was wedge shaped and the two separated easily. 



    I was doing the arms so you need to separate the two to get one of them out of the hub. 


  7. I had been a fan of Draper Expert stuff.  Got a few tools from their expert range and its not let me down.  I have a Draper Expert Mechanics bit set which has Torx bits - T20-T70 and Allen key bits  5-12mm size. I snapped a T30 bit counter holding my rear anti roll bar link when torqueing the thing up to ~45Nm.


    I went to get the 12mm Allen key bit for my dad to borrow and I noticed that I had also managed to plastically deform the T40 bit too, probably also doing the rear anti roll bar link.  It's got a twist in the splines from me obviously giving it too much for the bit to take.


    Therefore its obviously not good quality steel being used in the Draper stuff, if I can damage it relatively easily.


    Can anyone recommend a decent set of Mechanics bits.  Looking for Torx, Spline and Allen key bits that won't end up plastically deforming when being used.  Its not for every day use in a garage, but I'm prepared to pay for stuff that won't give out on me when needed.


    Any recommendations for these sorts of bit sets?



  8. 7 hours ago, Bill1976 said:

     Hi does this scanner let you code lights, mirrors etc, or is it more for fault finding? Was thinking about bimmercode, but I don’t think it works on pre lci cars.

    I haven’t checked myself, I suspect not and it’s more for as you say fault finding that coding. 

    Can’t comment on Bimmercode I’m afraid. 

  9. 8 hours ago, rasg said:


    By the way. It says nothing about LL04 on any of the non BMW oils I have looked at.


    If it doesn’t say LL04 on the bottle I wouldn’t use it. 

    In an emergency for a top up you could use anything that has ACEA C3 and API SN ratings that has a viscosity of 0w-30/0W-40/5W-30/5W-40. BMW have used all these viscosities in my cars over the years. 

    Did your Indy reset the pad warning after the new sensor was fitted?  The iDrive would give a much longer service remaining distance. 

    520d brakes (front discs) are 330x24 when new. Pads are common placement on lots of F10s up to 530i. A generic 2012 520d in Realoem doesn’t list any alternative discs but your actual chassis number might yield different results so again unlikely to have any upgraded or reinforced brakes.

  10. 16 minutes ago, Spreadly said:

    £403 for two tyres ffs, and that's only because I replaced them outside of London. Would've cost me a little more if I had done it in London.


    That's about the going rate for decent 275/35/19 rear tyres. I paid about that for two 19" Michelin Primacy 3 rears, cheapest price was Amazon.  They were originally fitted to mine when new and they had the best wet braking rating for 275/35 in 19"  so was happy to spend the extra ££ on a decent set of rubber. 


    Car goes round bends like its on rails on its 19" Michelins and its reassuring in the wet so I'm happy. 

  11. 3 hours ago, JCP said:


    Yes it does - a firm tug may be needed. The filter is then directly beneath it and lifts out. Fiddly but long nose pliers and a stead yhand will get it done. 


    Thanks for that.  I don't like being defeated so will have another go!


    3 hours ago, JCP said:

    As someone else has said, purchase some of the plastic trim 'buttons' as you will almost certainly not be reusing them all.


    Sound advice that.  The small headless rivets especially as I lost the centre of one or two punching them out.




    I bought 10 of each of the three types of rivet I've found on my car from eBay for not very much.

  12. 3 hours ago, percha said:

    Here is a photo of it, to be sure we are talking the same thing..
    But it could well be linked to the headlight as I have "headlight assist" option.cb5caafa2f3693113132f66095aabc60.jpg



    Yup, headlight level sensor.  Do you have adaptive Xenons?


    2 hours ago, rasg said:

    They pointed out that that the car needs new front break pads but there is 10.5 mm currently left on them and the same on the rear. The fronts are showing as needing replacing on the dash.


    Was the wear sensor replaced when they were changed in 2018?  Was a new wear senor fitted after then new pads?  You mentioned BMW parts but was that done at a BMW dealer?


    Since the iDrive system of brake service monitoring, I've not had bullsh1t from a dealer telling me I need new pads.  Was fairly frequent in E39 ownership despite pads and discs like yours still being full of meat.


    1 hour ago, rasg said:

    I'm on the Eurocar parts website. Does any know if my 2012 F11 Msport needs brake pads with "Without ReinForced Brakes" or "With ReinForced Brakes" please? The brand is Eicher.


    What flavor of F11 do you have?  Very unlikely you have Reinforced brakes.  What does Realoem say when you punch in your details?  Assuming its a 530d, there are a few pre LCi cars out there with the thicker 36mm discs, most have 30mm thick discs.  Both have 348mm dia discs.  The thickness in brake discs thickness is sometimes also referred to as high speed brake option.





    Best thing to do is whip a wheel off and measure the discs.



    1 hour ago, rasg said:

     Does everybody use BMW oil? The oil I am looking at is Shell Helix HX8 ECT 5W-40. The St Patrick's day discount on their website is around 45% off. That's a huge saving.



    I would say it can be a mixture, down to personal preference.  Use any of the major brands as long as they say LL04 on the bottle. My dad who likes spending my inheritance, went and bought oil from the dealer to get the BMW invoice for an interim oil change on his year old G01.  Fair enough but its an expensive way of doing it.  Shell is the current oil used by BMW dealers.  But Castrol, Mobil etc etc all make decent LL04 spec oils.  That Shell oil you mention is LL04 from what I can see so its fine to use in your car.


    Just make sure the ECP is still reasonable after the discount.  They grossly inflate prices then offer discount codes to bring them back down to what the price should actually be.  Don't get suckered with a ECP code.

  13. 54 minutes ago, F10er said:

    I have been fairly happy with my Dunlops


    What flavour of Dunlops is that? 


    Dunlop SP Sport 01s on my E60 were very good, got similar wear out of them but as it was an E60 with a bit of grunt, the inner edges were first....

  14. Depends where it has broken Mark.


    Mine broke just at the bottom of the coil, so not a massive drop in ride height.  Just be careful that there isn't a bit of spring that can catch the tyre and shred it.


    I kept driving mine gently for another couple of days until I felt a clonk which unnerved me so I parked it up till I got the spring the next day.  When I took it apart there was no signs of damage to anything else and the shocker was ok too.


    If you can lift the car high enough its a DIY job provided you have the means of getting in to undo the lower strut bolt at 250Nm with not great access unless lifted reasonably high.