535i Andrew

Bosch injectors albeit for my N55 are showing as in stock on Autodoc for ~£72 each.

Curious to know how you got on removing your injectors? Do they just pull out by hand (like an ignition coil) after undoing a clamp? Or did you have to resort to a slide hammer or puller to get them out?

Only real issues specific to the 535i variant are to look out for overheating. Thermostats and water pumps can give issues on the N55 engine and the oil cooler gaskets can sweat. Gasket between head and oil filter housing (under inlet manifold) and the the gasket between the oil filter housing and coil cooler. Easy enough to change but a significant oil leak here can damage the rubber auxiliary belt under it. If the belt fails (due to oil damage) it can get stuck between the crank damper pulley and the main oil seal. The main oil seal then failing and most likely main bearing failing soon after. But this is a case of ignoring the leak and then ignoring a failing belt and having serious bad luck. Change the oil every year or 10k miles ignore BMW service schedule to keep the timing chain sweet. All other F11 issues apply but they are nothing that can't be easily fixed (and cheaply too) from info on here. But good luck finding a F11 in 535i flavour, proper rocking horse poo car that.

Euro Car parts are running a 'sale' on Brembo brakes this weekend.

One that probably worked at the BMW dealer I used. I was failed and immediately passed for the same thing. This years MOT examiner said exactly that Boba, you just adjust it there an then to make it pass as its just turning a screw. Although if you've got a real stickler for the rules, technically the MOT examiner does not possess an Allen Key in his MOT tool box to make such adjustments. aka Jobsworth. And yet we have Diesels out there with no DPF's and no EGRs getting an MOT pass.

Nice job, well done. Thanks for the pics. I had a leaking rocker cover on my E60, I got an indy to do it as my wife was already 39 weeks pregnant at the time so I couldn't afford to mess it up.

Your heater valves are probably jammed open. They might have left a fault code so worth getting the car plugged into diagnostics to double check for faults in that area.

Yeah that's the same thing. Assuming the filters went back in the correct orientation for the air flow as that will potentially affect things Easy to check.

Are you saying that despite the heating being set to 17 its still hot air that comes out the vents? The aircon condenser isn't very reliable and can fail frequently which means the air con doesn't work as well and the car is more susceptible to steaming up in this weather. Despite the green A/C light being on. Info here Regardless of the temperature of the heater, having the A/C on should clear the windows, I think you might have two issues, failing A/C and stuck heater valves. A/C can be checked by a specialist who can check the pressures of the gas inside the system. Do not be tempted to touch the system yourself as its illegal to discharge A/C gas into the atmosphere. They can check for leaks too, suspect the condenser behind the kidney grills. If you get a specialist to empty the system you can work on it yourself. Stuck heater valves can be freed by gently tapping the black heater solenoid valves, these are located on the nearside inner wing/chassis rail. There will be three hoses that disappear towards the bulkhead that come out of the heater valve unit.

Pretty much except except this generation have far fewer electrical gremlins than the E60 and the autobox is so far proving to be more reliable. It's a BMW, what do you expect?

That is a good price. LL04 so batter on.

Good so you're clued up on F11 ownership then.

Good video, I liked how he used the bearing/bush tool to remove the injectors very easily. I wonder if I'll be able to use the same technique to remove my injectors. If the need arises.

As others have said, its a myth as discs don't end up like a pringle crisp. Unless you buy cheap crap made from tin foil. Its all to do with cleanliness and correct fitting. Oh and not driving it like you stole it to avoid hot discs and pads from leaving deposits in the first place that give a symptom of warped discs. Strip and clean everything. The mating faces between the hub and discs and disc and alloy need to be scrupulously clean and free from dirt and corrosion. The disc needs to be mounted perfectly on the hub, this can take a bit of wiggling to ensure its fitted properly as there are two steps on the flange of the hub, one for the disc and one for the alloy as seen below. Use wheel alignment pins to correctly align/support the disc while fitting it. It can also help using a wheel bolt to help pull the disc squarely onto the hub, when helping @vpcaptain, fit new (genuine) discs to his E87, we used the wheel bolts to pull the disc on to the hub as it wasn't sitting square initially. And a new spring clip can help keep things in place. Only a few quid for ATE ones from Autodoc As @Boba said its worth double checking if you have a dial gauge but you won't know if any 'wobble' it detects is from the disc being mounted incorrectly or if it has very very unlikely taken on the shape of a pringle. You would have to strip it down and use the dial gauge on the hub to rule out a damaged bearing.

The only reason I asked my MOT examiner, was that there had been much chat on here recently about headlight heights etc. It annoyed me on mine as BMW failed it on its 2nd MOT in my ownership on headlights being too high. They then passed it without any charge to me and the beams were noticeably lower on the road. I asked at the time on here how to adjust the headlights and was told that it had to be done diagnostically. This time cos I was dealing with a trusted indy, I asked him to check if my beams were ok when he checked the aim during the MOT. He advised that both were correct for the test and that the offside was slightly low. I told him what BMW had done to which he just scoffed and said why would you do that and not just adjust them there an then. He flipped open the headlight cover and using an 8 mm (?) Allen key he tweaked the adjuster and I watched the beam rise on the light gauge. Not that I've since driven it in the dark to notice any change. And you certainly don't need diagnostics to adjust the aim. For info mine are adaptable Xenons.