535i Andrew

Other than the above, presumably you haven’t coded them to work less frequently than originally intended. It resets itself after every ignition off cycle. Think mine operate every 2nd or 3rd skoosh.

Yes still original and it’s now showing fully charged after only ~3-4 hours on charge. Did 10 miles in it this morning. Obviously still healthy enough, given how much it’s just sat about.

Did something on my car that I’ve not done since early April. Filled it up! 61 litres of super. I’ve only done 330 miles since I recovered from suspected Covid 19 at the end of March. And 30 miles of that was its journey to and from the body shop! It’s now getting its battery charged up.

What Cadwell Parker said. It’s been pulled or lashed down via the track rod. The two other arms have stickers on them saying do not lash or tow via the arms. Poor practice from the recovery firm.

Ouch get the rack checked for damage too! It’s taken a load of force in a different direction from what it should have. It needs a pair of track rods and track rod ends, then a full four wheel alignment afterwards.

WRT shelf life, if it’s not been opened it should be good for several years providing its stored sensibly. I got some advice from Castrols tech team.

100% that happened when they recovered it or incorrect strapping down on a flat bed. How did they recover the car? Was it in a ditch or verge? To bend a track rod there would be corresponding damage to the tyre and rim when it hit something hard/big enough to bend a track rod. For example If you skid and hit a kerb side on with your wheel you may damage a track rod end but the tyre/rim will have witness marks on it from hitting the kerb. If the steering rack is damaged that might log a code. You need a better code reader.

They did threaten to put up my premium which was due literally days after my claim. I did make a comment to my claims handler that I wasn’t impressed, but the amount that came off our bank was the original amount. Plus they refunded us an amount of last year’s premium due to lack of use during lockdown in April. When I called them last year to advise of my change in reg just before renewal time I got them to drop the premium just by asking nicely. Really can not fault Admiral in this situation. They did offer me to use the third party claims handling company again (which means no excess and like for like car as it’s a no fault claim) but as the Claims handling company made such a rip roaring Jeremy Hunt of it two years ago I declined and stumped up the excess myself to avoid the hassle/stress and I was offered a trusted bodyshop by my own insurance company.

I've always gone genuine for discs, to be sure they are the right ones as I've been caught out before with wrong ones supplied by after market companies. Pads, fit anyone of the OEM suppliers pads and you wont go wrong. If fitting yourself, make sure the mating surface between disc and hub is spotlessly clean to prevent any run out. Switch hand brake off before resetting the wear sensors, which won't reset unless its released and has a new sensor fitted. Link to DIY including fluid change and resetting service icon in post below.

^From that it might indicate that the TPWS or TPMS has got a fault which could be that its not been reset properly or the sensor if TPWS is fitted was damaged in the blow out.

I can't find anything useful that tells me what those fault codes relate too. What code reader are you using? What size of tyres are on the front?

^^^What Matthew said.

Hi Matthew Yes I went thru my insurance as I wanted a workshop to check out the car properly so any damage would be dealt with. As you know there are all sorts of things under the bumper that you can't see so I wanted it checked out by someone other than me to make sure its all o.k. Its all down to my debilitating disease of Automotive OCD. My wife had a similar sideways knock to her car, which from the outside looked like a scuff on the bumper, but the bumper was pushed sideways into the headlight and broke a mounting bracket and the headlamp washer nozzle was damaged but you couldn't tell from looking at it from the outside. My excess is a little higher, which I paid and on my asking, I was told off the record by the bodyshop that the cost of the re-spray and new grills etc was £700. But I have come back if there is any further issue and I have a repair certificate to say its been done to BMW standards which I'm happy with. I just need to wait for the excess back from t'other insurance company but I suspect the other driver won't even tell his company judging by the other battle scars on their car. My insurance company are very much of the opinion, its a no fault claim and are pursuing the other party as I was stopped/parked at the time so its just a waiting game to get my cash back, but the main thing is my car is properly fixed and looks the mutts so I can live with recovering from open wallet surgery.

@Russ_T Visit realoem.com https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=FR72-EUR-01-2013-F10-BMW-535i&diagId=34_1823 Put your last 7 digits of the chassis number into the home page and follow thru for brakes.

Lol There is a sports mode? Never found the button to change it. Not like it was near the gear lever like in a proper car as it didn’t even have a gear lever, ye olde column shift instead. Did have paddles though.