535i Andrew

I try my best , glad you found it useful.

I see you found it ok

What was the remaining distance when you changed the pads? Not reset the rear pads myself, new sensor fitted, call up I drive to show the service needed, switch off handbrake follow procedure below and pad should reset to around 25-30k miles When I went to reset my recent oil service it wouldn’t reset until I had called up the service required on the idrive, then followed the procedure as per link above but for oil instead of front pads.

Because there is no way there is going to be sufficient infrastructure in place to get electricity to the cars in ten years. We will need a massive upgrade to the national grid just to distribute the power to literally ever single car parking space to permit charging over night. The government has totally failed to grasp the need to get power to the people to permit charging of electric cars other than via an extension lead. An ugly Tesla 3 with a 54kWh battery plugged into a 13 amp socket will take 18 hours to charge in your driveway and at 4.5 miles per kWH will give you a range of 250 miles. Or you take your ICE to the petrol station and 5 mins later drive away with a 400-800 mile range. if the ban was 2040 as originally stated we at least stand a chance of getting the infrastructure in place before hand.

I think all prices of petrol cars will go sky high now https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-54981425 #where’s the power coming from?

^That’s strong money.......

this! Because hybrids are just wrong, nowt to do with boot space. Although the BMW ones have a proper gearbox in them unlike the rest of the ghastly lot. And you can’t tow with them either.

BMW won’t offer any contribution to a repair nowadays on an N47. Some chains won’t give issues, some will, it’s a risk you need to factor in when buying any N47. It’s an engine out job to fix as chains are at the rear of the block, so on the heavy/experienced side of the occasional weekend diyer scale of things. It would be a difficult thing to prove worn chains in a warranty situation I would think. The chains haven’t necessarily failed (as in physical break) when they rattle, but if they do stretch (which is the source of the rattle as they slap off their tensioners) and skip a tooth and throw the timing out to break or bend something in the valve train then the warranty may kick in as something has now broken. But read any warranty small print to see if it covers timing chains failure as it’s effectively a new engine if valves meet pistons which will be pricey based on age of the car. Oz must be filled full of petrol V8s (just not BMW ones) as you don’t have the same eco mentalists running/ruining the country as we sadly do.

There is no rubbing (ccchhh ccchh) noise from a rattling chain but to me there is another rattle/noise but not sure from what. If you are that limited to choice, make sure it’s cheap enough to pay up to £2k for a replacement set of chains. That’s what I would have in a risk pot for it. You might not need it, but you’ll never know. Its got big miles with no extra oil services and it has a coolant leak. I’d be walking away and looking at something else. Like a Maloo!

Try charging the battery first with an AGM charger such as the Ctek MXS5.0. Short runs are not ideal for the battery so doing a maintenance charge is a cheaper option than a new battery. Mine has done ~600 miles since March and I charge mine every 8 weeks or so and have no issues with the electrical systems. If you have no luck after a charge then change the battery but as others have said make sure you register the new one to the car.

The 6 pot petrol engines are reliable enough in the F10 range. V8 is to be avoided, issues with timing chains etc. They are easy to maintain, just keep changing the oil every year or 10k miles. I change my oil and air filters once a year. The (minor) pitfalls are with the rest of the car, (air con condenser, door corrosion, springs breaking, yellow grommet leaks) assuming you can find a petrol F10. That’s the hard bit. After a recent service mine is super smooth and quiet. The noisiest part on mine is the rumble from the rft winter tyres. Mine doesn’t have pro nav but has split rear seats, adaptive Xenons and a towbar which I use plenty, options/specifications is very subjective so do your own homework on what’s important to you.

Not unheard of to fail at big miles. But now you've resecured its plug it's worth clearing the code and driving it again. Have you noticed any any difference in performance or mpg?

The spokes and the BMW roundel aren't enough for you to tell which way is up. I've it on Porsches, but then again Porsche drivers aren't the brightest.

Did you clear the fault code after cleaning it? Mine thru a MAF code after I'd disconnected it to get to my spark plugs. What mileage is on the car?

You'll need to enlighten me, why do some steering wheels have a red or yellow stripe at the 12oclock position? Is it a form of go faster stripe?