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wsn03

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  1. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    Very little had happened with the BMW before work was halted to do the Golf, only the new brakes that I'd sprayed up were fitted, and not yet with the new brake lines.
    However a lot has changed with the mechanic - he now has a unit over on a farm, so I tend to hang out with him there on Saturday's just giving him a hand with general stuff - from business advice to paperwork to sitting on our backsides drinking tea...and the odd bit of work.
    So the first thing he wanted was to get the BMW over to his new unit, where he can work on it every time he feels like it during any day of the week.
     
    The pics below show the new brakes, without the new brake lines (to follow later), followed by the car being loaded onto a truck to be taken to the unit on the farm.
    Now that Golf 2 is complete work will continue on the BMW. 
    Golf 1 will need a big restoration, and I'll be collecting it from the Isle of Man this week, however it will be put in the the back of the workshop until the BMW is completely finished - no more delays.
    Steve thinks the BMW will be ready for its 500 mile of test runs at the end of this month. It will look like the walking dead but we need to get everything mechanically perfect before the body work starts.
     
     





  2. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    Very little had happened with the BMW before work was halted to do the Golf, only the new brakes that I'd sprayed up were fitted, and not yet with the new brake lines.
    However a lot has changed with the mechanic - he now has a unit over on a farm, so I tend to hang out with him there on Saturday's just giving him a hand with general stuff - from business advice to paperwork to sitting on our backsides drinking tea...and the odd bit of work.
    So the first thing he wanted was to get the BMW over to his new unit, where he can work on it every time he feels like it during any day of the week.
     
    The pics below show the new brakes, without the new brake lines (to follow later), followed by the car being loaded onto a truck to be taken to the unit on the farm.
    Now that Golf 2 is complete work will continue on the BMW. 
    Golf 1 will need a big restoration, and I'll be collecting it from the Isle of Man this week, however it will be put in the the back of the workshop until the BMW is completely finished - no more delays.
    Steve thinks the BMW will be ready for its 500 mile of test runs at the end of this month. It will look like the walking dead but we need to get everything mechanically perfect before the body work starts.
     
     





  3. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in Winter's coming...   
    Ive bought Lanoguard too...
  4. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    Hello everyone
    Been a long time updating because we have been delayed by another German relic.
    Cut a long story short my Mother has a 22 year old Golf GTI she won't let go of. I bought her a lower mileage one 6 years ago,  but she just ended up keeping both. Both cars have a long list of issues that need proper thorough addressing. 
    The less special of the 2 cars will become her daily drive, and its the one that needed the least amount of work. As both were suffering from water coming in I decided to get at least one fully done asap so she has something that isn't a moving wreck.
     
    So Golf no 2 was put on the ferry from the Isle of Man in June, and I collected it off the ferry in Liverpool. I created a long list of issues just driving home and noticed its tired and scruffy appearance - it would do as a daily, no rust or big marks, but it would never be anything more than pracical.
     
    I was astonished therefore, as the icing on the cake, after making it drive like a new car my mechanic took it to a guy who made it end up looking like a new car as well. This car itself is 20 years old, the BMW is 19. I am now gagging to see my BMW finished, I just cannot imagine how good its going to look.
     
    Here are some pictures of the near finished Golf







  5. Like
    wsn03 reacted to Johan in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    BMW indeed make (or is it used to make) amazing engines. The bores in my 525 still looked ok after 285k miles (460k km):

     
     
     
     
  6. Thanks
    wsn03 reacted to Clavurion in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    I would clear paint on the carrier surfaces where the pad ends contact the carrier.
  7. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    All painted up


  8. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from Mani59 in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    Really happy seeing the engine looking so clean 


  9. Like
  10. Like
    wsn03 reacted to Ray112 in Fitting optional extras   
    I'm afraid you will need to cut off all roof and replace it with the one from car with sunroof, because it's not just hole in roof, it's a lot more things there. But honestly I don't see point of sunroof if car has air-conditioning. On hot summer days all my windows are closed anyway and inside temperature set to what ever I like. Air-conditioning keeps it that way. Sunroof only will let hot air and noise in, especially on higher speed. So chopping roof for something absolutely unnecessary sounds little too crazy for me. All other retrofit options have been done and shouldn't be too complicated with right parts.
    About sound system, probably worth to look for aftermarket options right away, because there's not very great OEM sound systems in E39, all they are quite weak from factory.
  11. Like
    wsn03 reacted to Toughguyhuh in Rebuilding my 540i... join me :)   
    daparto.de is also a good place to look - they are a comparison site for car parts suppliers, so you can compare prices against different suppliers. Very good search facility too as it picks up on BMW part numbers and offers OE and OEM parts. Autodoc are one of the suppliers on Daparto.
     
    +1 for Autodoc although I haven'y ordered anything from them since the Brexit transition ended so I can't say how that affects extra charges etc. now.
  12. Like
    wsn03 reacted to waitee in Rebuilding my 540i... join me :)   
    I get all my stuff from AUTODOC.  comes from Germany si takes a week sometimes 10 days to arrive. Doesn’t bother me. Never had any issues. 
  13. Like
    wsn03 reacted to BarryM in Rebuilding my 540i... join me :)   
    I’ve not heard of those ATE discs but they look good, I went with the OEM ATE as I agree cheap discs are a false economy. Ceramic pads create less heat in use, last longer, less dust as well as apparently creating less wear to the disc so apart from the higher initial cost are a real improvement. I went with Carbotech bobcat pads after reading some reviews, they’ve been on nearly 3 years and as the car isn’t a DD I don’t expect to ever need to replace the pads or discs again 
  14. Like
    wsn03 reacted to waitee in Rebuilding my 540i... join me :)   
    deffo cheap discs don't last in my experience. the warp real easy unless you drive all day like a granny (no offence to awesome grannys) if you drive hard they just warp, I use OEM which for BMW is ATE, there a great brand, use them on other cars to. and yeah first impression of ceramic stuff is well worth the extra cash. mento to last longer to so well see about that one, and still checking the cleanliness aspect
  15. Thanks
    wsn03 reacted to Pimpollo in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    Thought so, don't know if you subscribe to M539 restorations on YouTube, for me it's the best bmw channel on there, he did a Vanos rebuild on a recent upload, it was excellent. 
  16. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from dimsum in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    The cleaning starts
     


  17. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    Slow progress lately, just the point my mechanic is at.
    Engine has been fired up, vanos issues! Turns out one of the jigs /clamps was wrong, new one should be here today. Add a failed oil pipe damaged previously...nice big gearbox oil mess on the floor.
     
    Wheels off, new discs and calipers ordered as existing ones are very rusty and time is against us.
     
    My mechanic is coming on Saturday just for my benefit. I want to actually be hands on, during the week im constantly disturbed by work. 
    Saturday should be - 
    Vanos complete 
    Everything engine, shafts, gearbox connected. 
    New brake callipers and discs, original  wheels with new tyres.
    Cooling system (new radiator etc).
    In theory we should be driving it up and down the road, but something is likely to crop up!
     
    Front crash bar is at the powder coaters, front bumper has had an amazing repair job done by the paint shop. 
     
    Let's see what tomorrow brings



  18. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    Slow progress lately, just the point my mechanic is at.
    Engine has been fired up, vanos issues! Turns out one of the jigs /clamps was wrong, new one should be here today. Add a failed oil pipe damaged previously...nice big gearbox oil mess on the floor.
     
    Wheels off, new discs and calipers ordered as existing ones are very rusty and time is against us.
     
    My mechanic is coming on Saturday just for my benefit. I want to actually be hands on, during the week im constantly disturbed by work. 
    Saturday should be - 
    Vanos complete 
    Everything engine, shafts, gearbox connected. 
    New brake callipers and discs, original  wheels with new tyres.
    Cooling system (new radiator etc).
    In theory we should be driving it up and down the road, but something is likely to crop up!
     
    Front crash bar is at the powder coaters, front bumper has had an amazing repair job done by the paint shop. 
     
    Let's see what tomorrow brings



  19. Like
    wsn03 reacted to Ray112 in E39 door drainage holes.   
    WD-40 is not a lubricant. And actually be careful with it, it can leave permanent marks to paintwork if left on for long time. 
    If you want to lube window mechanism, do it right way as mentioned above. Through door drains you only will make a great mess and most likely nothing of oil will get to areas where it's actually needed.
  20. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from Ray112 in E39 door drainage holes.   
    Please take on board WD40 is not a lubricant for anything, its a common misconception. Great cleaner, protector, water displacer. My engine bay cleaning is all WD40, now everything including paintwork is gleaming
  21. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from Mani59 in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    Glad it has been of some interest!  I'm not far from you location wise - I'm in Warwick. You're near the mechanic (about to set up in Coventry) and near the paint shop too (again Coventry, next door to the mechanic!)  if you ever need the same.
     
    The next steps
    Fire up the engine Put cooling system together if running ok Test drive - up to 600 miles Strip down bodywork completely Full body tidy up and respray Re-assemble bodywork Full interior leather clean The Champagne M Sport does seem a bit different and a bit special. I didn't realise that when I was buying, and then asked what the hell the M was doing on the wheels etc! Not driven it since 2016, can't remember what its like, really excited to know it will be fired up next week Thursday apparently (when my mechanic returns)
  22. Like
    wsn03 reacted to stubobby in Rebuilding my 530i... join me :) - Shout to WAITEE   
    UPDATE CONT....
    My thanks
    Firstly -
    Roy, Dennis Cooper, Waitee
     
    Ongoing Issues - These are the issue where I am finding problems with no clear way fwd and a variety of option - I will update these individually.
     
    Exhaust configuration - OK - so..... I want to replace the exhaust with a Supersprint Back box. I have experience of these - I like them - they sound fantastic without being boy race drone. So my original intent was to buy a back box only. and mate to the OEM exhaust - but when I saw the condition of the OEM exhaust I decided attention was required. Dilemma..... to get a full SS system means you have to get a £2.5k manifold and also a £2.5k centre section with racing CATs. The solution I have arrived at is I intend to keep the OEM manifold and CATs and mate the to a SS NON CAT centre. This represents a significant cost saving and i reckon mating them to the diamond flanges will not be too onerous. The ramaining issue i have is the Y piece that is originally on the car is supported from the drivers side - whereas the SS only has a small resonator SO it is hung from 1 less place the the original and when test fitting it hung like a bag of sh*t  - so i am wondering if clamping it up to provide stiffness and to prevent it rotating is crucial to get the position correct - I suspect it is - PICS to Follow
     
    Paint Dilemma - TBD
     
    Differential - See 11th April - I would love to know if anyone has managed this easier them me. The torx diff bolts were corroded down their shaft and were NOT for budging AT ALL. I am sure a high powered impact wrench "may" have helped. But honestly it was a nightmare I resorted to cutting the head off and basically chiselling and punching the flanges apart. 
    Prop Shaft info - TBD
     
    Cutting too much - I would be keen to know other peoples experience on a car of this age in Scotland. A few chats with garages have resulted in - "never had any problems with that" type comments - but I have cut a lot due to corrosion. Is this to be expected?
     
     
    Ongoing Successes - TBC
    ...
     
    On the 12th APRIL I made a recap - and this was to keep my own diary up to date - it included all the things I had done - I can expand if anyone wants to know more.
    ORDER OF REMOVAL – From memory
    1.       Front Mudguards
    2.       Front arch Liners
    3.       Exhaust
    4.       RHS Rear Brakes
    5.       Xenon Height switch
    6.       RHS Lower strut bolt
    7.       RHS hand brake outer cable
    8.       RHS rear inner arch and under sill liner
    9.       RHS ABS & Brake wear sensor switches
    10.   LHS Brakes
    11.   LHS lower Strut bolt
    12.   LHS rear inner arch and under sill liner
    13.   Prop shaft bolts
    14.   SUBFRAME        
    a.       Handbrake cables need attention here
    b.      Subframe bump stops
    c.       4-off Subframe Bolts
    15.   Upper control arms / wishbones – 4-off
    16.   Diff Bolts (part complete at time of writing)
     
    9th May 2020
    Diff packed up and sent off to be rebuilt with LSD - before and after wire brushing and after packing

     
    19th July 2020
     
    Neil came over again and we proceeded to remove
    Various Heat Shields
    Prop Shaft
    Fuel Tank
    Beak lines
    Hand brake cables
    Starting with the heat shields the came away with a variety of self-tapping screws and push on clips. Most of these were rusty so will need to refer to REALOEM when refitting to use correct fasteners etc.
    After Heat Shields Neil removed the prop-shaft. This was a “simple case” of removing the 3 prop shaft bolts from the gearbox output shaft and lifting the prop-shaft out. There are 3 bolts from the rubber donut to the gearbox and 3 from securing the donut to the prop-shaft. The prop-shaft alignment bush was broken, appearing as if someone else had tried to remove it previously, but dad sourced a similar picture showing similar symptoms so perhaps this is a common failure. Latterly it appeared that, having spoken to an independent specialist, dad discovered it is a common failure once the prop-shaft donut begins to wear.
    Once the heat shields and prop-shaft were down we set about removing the fuel tank. The fuel system is slightly complicated but the Haynes manual has a good schematic. All the hoses need to be removed and they were fasted with one use “ear” clips. These were cut with either nail puller or the dremel.
    Various Pictures showing FUEL TANK now removed. At this point it will be important to get more pictures with reference points for clips and hangers etc for heat shields, handbrake cables, brake lines, etc etc
    We also removed the rear bumper which was straight forward.

     
    After the fuel tank was removed we had to empty the fuel. There was a lot more than anticipated, approximately 25 ltrs. We drained into a clean-ish bucket and then filtered through kitchen paper to a jerry-can then distributed to the Kawasaki and the Mazda.
    Then we removed the brake pipes to the rear of the car. These came away easy enough. They were held down the RHS of the car with small machine screws and flat plate brackets.
     
    1st August 2020
    Neil came over again and we began with removing the prop-shaft alignment bearing. I had already watched a few videos and removed the rubber oil seal, so with his blind bearing removal tool the bearing came out relatively easily.
    We then proceeded to dismantle the front end suspension and brakes. This was fairly standard. The brakes came away as expected although the carrier bolts were fairly tough – but this is as they should be because the have thread lock. After which we moved to the steering are ball joint. This was quit difficult due to the ball joint splitter being too small. Neil opened it up with the grinder and it fit a little better and was then successful at splitting the ball joint. We then moved to the inner bolts of the front and rear control arms and proceeded to remove them from the car. After which we removed the top 3 bolts for the suspension top mount and then dropped the entire unit of front strut and spring, wheel carrier and bearing, control arms and wheel carrier.
    Below are a series of pictures showing the RHS front coroner dismantle
    I also dismantled much of the interior simply to get the rear shocks out as they are below the parcel shelf - what a nightmare. 

     
    APPROX. MID AUGUST
    Wire brushed and polished on of the rear wishbones
    Dismantled the RHS front Wheel carrier – removing the 4 wheel bearing bolts and hammering out the 2 control arms. These came out complete with the spacers/bushes. I was able to break the taper by applying the ball joint splitter and applying heat. I also pressed out a nearing from the other rear wishbone.

     
    Saturday 24th October
    Set about organising sub-frame parts and checking all the bags – all seemed in order
    Hung the exhaust to get an idea of how I can mount the OEM manifold to the SS centre pipe. This looks like it is quite doable – and the decision was taken to leave this project for the time being and purchase exhaust components and make it up when the car is rebuilt. Possibly working on it when the engine is out. Then set about removing the front bumper. The LHS torx bolt was seized so had to remove quite a lot of ducting to get to the impact absorbers and remove the whole assembly from the car. Managed to separate the bumper from the impact absorber but unfortunately shearing the bolt.
     
    Sunday 25th October
    Broke the bumper down to its various components and managed to drill out the seized sheared thread. 

    UNDIARISED EVENTS
    Along with dates above - I have also grabbed some time when I can to press out various bushes and break down various control arms, wheel carriers and bearings etc etc. I have a bearing sleeve kit with threaded rods it is good but no substitute for a press and I have had to become quite creative which has yielded results but not with out the odd casualty - namely the M8 threaded rod is gubbed.... 
    Below it also how I got my hub nut out - bolted the hub back to wheel and strapped said wheel to my bench and used a long pipe - very effective....
    Extra pic of SS vs OEM manifold and the mating I need to carry out

     
    Think that is me more or less up to date - any comments / advice welcome especially on the "Ongoing Issues"
     
    thanks
     
    PS - can someone identify these collars on REAL OEM or another - pretty sure I wasnt supposed to knock them out but I did
     

     


  23. Like
    wsn03 reacted to stubobby in Rebuilding my 530i... join me :) - Shout to WAITEE   
    FYI - here is the car about 10+ years ago - hope to get it there again

  24. Like
    wsn03 reacted to stubobby in Rebuilding my 530i... join me :) - Shout to WAITEE   
    Hi everyone - having started my project and doing some reading on here - I am inspired by WAITEE to post my own thread and how its going. 
     
    I will try to update everything I have done and we'll see how it going.
     
    Firstly the project. 
    2001 BMW e39 530i SPORT - Manual Imola RED
    The car was purchased by my dad from Grassicks Perth as his first brand new car after retiring from the RN. He keep it garaged and immaculate for many years (as he has with all his cars) but this one benefited from being a second car and miles were kept low as such. FF to 2014 and the car has barely done 50k and he is now hankering after something new - as it happened a 435i Gran Coupe - so I was lucky enough to inherit the car and I used it as a daily for about 14 months - putting it up to about 70k miles. Then - first kid, then new house (3 years of DIY and counting) and 2 more kids...... so the BMW sat in various states of storage/driveway/garage from about December 2015 till April 2020. This year I finally had some fund and time (although both are limited) to restore it. 
     
    My plan it to basically rebuild anything that is required and turn it into a sort of "Q" car sleeper without altering its core character or looks.
     
    I intend to do
    Brakes
    Suspension
    Exhaust
    Bodywork
    and eventually a supercharger
     
    Much can be said about the "right" think to do and you could just get an M car etc etc - but for me this car has sentimental value (my dad is still about  - happy with his 435i and now a totally immaculate 2002) and also much of it is about the journey and just doing it because why not
     
    My thanks
    Firstly -
    Roy at CA/Crest - what a guy. Enthusiastic, helpful, profession and knowledgeable. Cannot thank him enough for his help thus far and supplying all the upgrade kit for the car (aside from BM OEM stuff) with more to come.
    Dennis Cooper - have has some chats back and forward with DC and again helpful, knowledgeable - so big thanks
    Waitee - Your post has inspired me to crack on and it is also really useful for my own project - FYI - we need to talk diff removal (and sorry for stealing the title - will change if you want)
     
    Ongoing Issues - These are the issue where I am finding problems with no clear way fwd and a variety of option - I will update these individually.
    Exhaust configuration - TBD
    Paint Dilemma - TBD
    Differential - See 11th April - I would love to know if anyone has managed this easier them me. The torx diff bolts were corroded down their shaft and were NOT for budging AT ALL. I am sure a high powered impact wrench "may" have helped. But honestly it was a nightmare I resorted to cutting the head off and basically chiselling and punching the flanges apart. 
     
    Ongoing Successes - TBC
     
     
    So it starts.
    18th January 2020
    I started by deciding if the car was in a fit state to spend a significant time on axle stands.
    So, with the help of Neil (best pal) we put the car in the drive and used some timber and wheel ramps to elevate the front of the car – this was flawed as the car is so low that the front bumper underneath bump stops clashed with the wheel ramps, but it did allow us to get the car high enough to get the trolley jack to the centre jacking point. I raised the car and put on axles stands on the angles front sub frame legs.
    We then removed the front mudguards and front inner arches. We also removed the windscreen washer bottle.
    This allowed inspection of the front of the sills and all appeared to be sound and solid. I was also able to remove one of the jacking points and feel inside the sill with a finger. There was no evidence of any corrosion or flaking.

    21st March 2020
    Into the garage
    Made pad pieces for axle stands - I have it about 600mm off the ground in large axles stand - giving plenty of room underneath. 1 man job - this was not an easy job
    Started putting plus-gas on DIFF bolts
    Put car on axle stand – used trolley jack and block of wood

    Started removing exhaust
    Removed Centre gusset plate bolts *4 – M8 -13mm Hex Head.
    These came out easily with impact driver. The gusset is still attached to the car via the exhaust bracket.
    Then I removed the 4 bolts from the 2 exhaust “arm” brackets – all the nuts and bolts snapped (REAR BRACKET) OR needed cut off
    Then I removed the Front exhaust diamond flange assembly. This is where the font manifold/CAT assemble downpipes joins the main centre exhaust. This was quite difficult. All the nuts & bolts were seized with corrosion. I cut the 3 accessible ones with a grinder and then used a wrench and socket to shear them and punch the bolt out. The 4th one was not accessible with the grinder so with some plus-gas I managed to undo the nut and as of today the bolt remains, but the exhaust will slide off.

    28th March 2020
    After removing the last nut from the fwd most exhaust bracket I was able to drop the entire exhaust system. I did this but placing a trolley jack under the rear box and under the fwd resonator. I placed an axle stand under the “Y” piece, but as the exhaust lowered the offset mass of the “Y” piece started to tip off the axle stand. I relocated an axle stand to the rear box and then  used the trolley jack under the “Y” piece and fwd resonator and lowered the whole exhaust. I then lifted the rear box onto my creeper and dragged the system from beneath the car.

    2nd April 2020 - AND SO THE TROUBLE BEGINS
    After this I began to remove the differential/half shaft bolts. I have managed to remove 3 successfully, but 2 of them have started to chew. I have been using PLUSGAS for over a week and it has had multiple sprays, but I suspect they are just too corroded. As this is proving too difficult I have decided that it would be easier to drop the rear sub-frame and this needs to happen anyway.
    I removed the RHS rear wheel and then as per the Haynes manual I removed the brake calliper. I slackened off the brake hose before completely removing the calliper. The calliper came away and I removed the brake hose and it is hanging over a funnel and bottle.
    I then removed the calliper carrier and then the brake disc. This was stuck fast so I went into the cabin and slackened the hand brake cable. This was difficult as the hand brake was over tight and the access to the nuts was difficult through the handbrake gator space – but I managed with the small Bahco socket set.
    The disc was still stuck fast – to after a quick phone call to D (helper dad) I used a standard hammer and a few solid tape and encouragement the disc came free.
    I then removed the handbrake assembly by removing the top retaining spring (the lower was stuck) so I removed the 2 90 degree retaining spring clips and the shoes came away.
    I finished by undoing the 4 bolts for the stone guard. However you cannot remove the stone guard over the wheel hub so it remains in place – but loose and able to rotate for access.
    4th April 2020
    I removed the RHS rear wheel arch liner. This was difficult as the small self tapping screws/bolts were all rusted in. I cut the FWD inner one – (yellow) with a dremel – but the heat melted the liner in the local area of the screw so I am now considering if I can re-mould a small patch piece and re-form the liner and then redril the liner with a new hole. I am not sure how to do this as I don’t think any new plastic will adhere to the arch liner.
    I also had to remove the under sill full length liner. This was only held in with plastic expanding rivets.
    5th April 2020
    Removed LHS rear brake – disc corroded on thus the handbrake shoe securing holes were damaged in the process of knocking the disc loose. I also struggled with the brake calliper carrier lower bolt as the access was impeded but the lower wishbone – it would have likely been ok with a spanner rather than a socket.
    9th April 2020
    Finished removing LHS rear inner wheel arch liner. Again this was difficult due to the self tapping trim bolts/screws. Almost all of the head was corroded and they need filed and then removed with mole-grips
    Started to remove the prop-shaft nuts. I had already backed them all off and thought this would be easy enough – but as I started to removed them they binded on the corrosion and the bolt head started rotating. This was a problem because the bolts have round heads. They appear to secure themselves by having a serrated shaft and biting into the internal shaft of the prop-shaft flange. I manage to remove 3 without issue and I then managed to remove another 1 using mole-grips. I then had to cut to off using the air driven grinder. This went smoothly enough and I was able to relieve the prop-shaft from the diff. I did spent quite some time trying with mole-grips prior to cutting off. It is worth noting that this was despite LOTS of plus-gas and wire brushing.
    PICS TO BE INSTERTED FOR PROPSHAFT BOLTS
     
    10th April 2020
    Took the rear subframe down. This was not an easy task. I had already relieved all the items attached to the subframe the last thing to do was to remove the bottom bolt from the LHS rear strut. I put 2 axle stands under the sub frame and used the SGS jack with a block of wood to take the weight. I removed the bump stops from the front mounts of the subframe and then removed the main subframe bolts. This all went east enough. I started to lower the jack and the diff flange was caught on the prop-shaft. So I managed to clear this and support the prop-shaft with an axle stand. I managed to lower the subframe to a height lower than the car – but then it became difficult as it started to tip forward. I managed to remove the axle stands and put 4 blocks of wood beneath the subframe – but at the last moment the subframe slipped from the jack and crashed down. No damage was done as I had put all the timber beneath and it was already quite close to the ground.
    11th April 2020
    Started to break down the subframe. I began to remove the ball joint nuts from the upper arms. This proved difficult as the spindles have nothing to grip. It was either too small or corroded away. I think there may be a hex on a new one – but these were too corroded. I had to cut the nut off the two fwd smaller arms and was able to remove the larger ones by filing 2 flats on the spindle and gripping with mole-grips. It was not easy. I then moved to the nuts and bolts at the inboard side and again corrosion proved to be an issue – but they came away ok.
    I then moved back to the diff bolts. There are badly corroded and are very difficult to remove. I manage to shear a bolt head completely and have had to cut 2 off. I have so far removed 5 from 12.

     
     
    POST ON PAUSE - MORE TO COME
     
    please feel free to
     
    feedback
    ask any questions
    advise how I should pic the post up - just keep updating
     
    all the best
  25. Like
    wsn03 got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in E39 530i Sport - Champagne Run Out - resurrection   
    Engine in

    Before cleaning ^^^^
     

     
     
     
     
     

     
     

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