Jump to content

JasonH

Members
  • Content count

    891
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

Reputation Activity

  1. Thanks
    JasonH got a reaction from Bfg26 in Torque converter queries   
    You can get an issue where if you hold the car at an exact speed, I think between 70 and 80, you get a regular small "misfire". The car sort of misses a beat then carries on and it repeats I think every few seconds. The actual cause of this issue is the EGR. Apparently it's because the EGR is worn and you can calibrate it out using BMW diagnostic software - that's what they used to do when the cars were under warranty.
  2. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from chicaneuk in Tackling a blocked DPF.. (520d)   
    I only really know about 6 cylinder BMWs but in those there was a separate DPF before 2007 but the LCi models have a combined DPF and Cat. The first half of the unit is the cat and the second half the DPF. You can still wash it out.
  3. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from chicaneuk in Tackling a blocked DPF.. (520d)   
    Yes drop the whole exhaust off. It's surprising easy but it is heavy. Impossible without. I've tried both removing the exhaust and trying to remove the DPF without... 
  4. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from markLILY in help help problem   
    I can think of three main suspects:
     
    1. Failed regen attempts. If the EGR wasn't mapped out properly who knows what is happening. Multiple failed regens definitely cause your oil level to rise. Need to monitor the car with some diagnostics to see if it is trying to regen, when the last regen was etc. 
    2. Leaking injectors - need to get them tested.
    3. There was something a long time ago when these cars were a year or two old....I think it may have been a fuel pump issue but I can't remember. It did cause a very rapid rise in oil level and usually was dealt with under warranty.
  5. Thanks
    JasonH got a reaction from HDM95 in E60 in 2021. Good Decision?   
    The 3 litre diesel engines should easily do 200k miles without a problem if the oil has/is changed regularly. Your problem is everything else. A lot does go wrong and to be cost effective you really need to be able to fix the problems yourself.
     
    In comparison with my E61 (which has needed a lot of repairs over the years) two friends with F10's have had almost zero problems. My car hasn't ever actually broken down but so many things have needed fixing e.g. idrive, sunroof, torque converter, suspension arms front and back, wheel bearings, alternator, DPF clean, brake lines, vacuum lines, brake servo, etc. etc. However, I have had my E61 for 14 years. In comparison with other cars I've owned only a Vauxhall has needed as much maintenance as my E61 535d.
  6. Thanks
    JasonH got a reaction from HDM95 in E60 in 2021. Good Decision?   
    The 3 litre diesel engines should easily do 200k miles without a problem if the oil has/is changed regularly. Your problem is everything else. A lot does go wrong and to be cost effective you really need to be able to fix the problems yourself.
     
    In comparison with my E61 (which has needed a lot of repairs over the years) two friends with F10's have had almost zero problems. My car hasn't ever actually broken down but so many things have needed fixing e.g. idrive, sunroof, torque converter, suspension arms front and back, wheel bearings, alternator, DPF clean, brake lines, vacuum lines, brake servo, etc. etc. However, I have had my E61 for 14 years. In comparison with other cars I've owned only a Vauxhall has needed as much maintenance as my E61 535d.
  7. Thanks
    JasonH got a reaction from mpgscott in Headlight restoration kits any good   
    I've polished headlights quite a few times.
     
    No need for a kit just work through wet and dry grades from about 800 to around 2000 then polish. The problem is that this will look great for about 6 months then the headlights will start to yellow from exposure to UV.
     
    The best solution is to get a bodyshop to put some clear lacquer on them (ideally when they're doing another car so it only costs you a few quid). I got about 6 years and perfect headlights once, then stone chips caused the lacquer to peel. After that I did the same but I did it in January and something went a bit wrong with the lacquer so it was very slightly milky. I suspect if the lacquer had been on paint you wouldn't have noticed but on a headlight it really bugged me.
     
    So this time, it being lockdown I'm trialling a home polish + ceramic coating. It should protect from UV and if I reapply annually I'm hoping all will be well. The nightmare this time was that the chap who did my milky lacquer did me the favour of putting the thickest coat of lacquer I've ever seen and it took ages to sand off, even with 600 grit and an electric drill!!
     
    Here's one of the recently polished headlamps with ceramic coating.
     
     

  8. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from Keliuss in Increased Battery Discharge, trace with ISTA?   
    If you are doing 1 mile journeys (only) in it you may just have a killed/dead battery.
     
    On my car, an older 535d, that alone definitely kills the battery because from the moment you unlock the car every system on the car boots up and together draw over 20A, you then use charge starting the car and finally when you get out the car stays powered up for 16 mins. Overall each journey takes far more out of the battery than you put in. One long journey once a week will put the charge back in (and is good for the DPF) but if you don't do that my car will start to flag battery errors.
     
    If you think you truly have a problem you need to find the fault before replacing the battery because if you fully discharge the new one you'll damage it.
     
    If it might just be the usage pattern then charge the battery once a week and see what happens.
     
     
  9. Thanks
    JasonH got a reaction from mpgscott in 535d Cabin Smoke at cold start   
    Exhaust in the cabin on a 535d is almost always the exhaust flexi. The exhaust wafts up the bulkhead and into the cabin filters.
     
    On the older 530d's it could be the exhaust manifold, they used to crack all the time but on the 535d the exhaust manifold is cast and never leaks.
  10. Like
    JasonH reacted to Biotoxic in ZF6HP26 Gearbox upgrades and torque converters..   
    Adaptions before I changed the torque converter and now with the uprated TC

     Haven't had a chance to drive on the motorway so the E clutch pressure will definitely change. Will take it for a longer drive on Monday, I'll check the adaptions and then it's time for a xhp stage 3....
  11. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from Haych in Dead!   
    You should be able to disconnect the tailgate switch to eliminate that. 
     
    You can also unplug the IBS data lines to disable the IBS and eliminate that. 
  12. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from max535 in M Sport anti roll bar sizes   
    There's no problem replacing the bushes without undoing the drop links. I took mine off and re-greased the bushes a couple of weeks ago like that. (After a while the silicone grease on poly bushes gets washed away and your suspension can creak going over speed ramps.)
  13. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from Biotoxic in ZF6HP26 Gearbox upgrades and torque converters..   
    When I had harsh gear changes I changed the oil and reset all of the adaptations. I then followed the teach in instructions almost perfectly....and the gear changes were terrible. I used the car for a few months but once learnt bad it seems the adaptation couldn't be unlearnt. So I reset the adaptations again and drove gently for a few hundred miles and the adaptations were perfect.
  14. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from dirtydirtydiesel in E61 gearbox. . . . . .   
    In DS the car shouldn't go into 6th.
     
    In normal D mode the car starts in 2nd and moves up to 6th.
     
    In DS the gearbox uses 1-5 and should stay in 5th. Max speed is achieved in 5th.
     
    The torque converter will slip if the gearbox is not warm enough (by design). Once the gearbox oil is a bit warm it will lock up above 30mph. However if you floor it then it will drop down a gear and you get that stretchy elastic band feel as the gears change.
     
    To test the torque converter get the car up to temperature, on a motorway put the car in manual mode and play with the accelerator - the car should feel like a manual and the revs match the speed.
     
    However even in manual mode the car will change up when you hit the rev limit and it will change down if the engine is about to stall.
     
    To check the gearbox otherwise read the fault codes. Without fault codes it'll be pretty hard to convince the garage there is a problem unless it's really obvious.
     
    If you don't like the feel of the 6HP26 gearbox (which is designed for comfort not driving experience) spend £200 on an xHP gearbox remap. That will make the gearbox behave in what I'd consider a normal way!
     
  15. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from dirtydirtydiesel in E61 gearbox. . . . . .   
    An xHP map makes the gear changes a lot fast and the big deal is that it doesn't drop a gear when you floor it. That saves about 0.5s lag and you can just use the torque of the engine to launch you forward.
  16. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from Changy in Front Wheel bearing replacement guide?   
    Don't use cheap bearings....I bought mine in a hurry I thought they were FAG but that was just in the title on ebay, lower down in small print was the actual manufacturer. They looked OK so I fitted them. They didn't last 12 months before there was play. I then sourced some genuine FAG parts and had to replace them again.
     
    I didn't take the strut out, just dropped the hub off the bottom.
     
    Make sure you use a 6 sided impact socket on the wheel bearing bolts. They're really tight and you don't want to round off the bolts.
  17. Thanks
    JasonH got a reaction from dirtydirtydiesel in Zf6hp26   
    TC is doable on a drive but ideally do it under cover because the gearbox will be off for a few days whilst the TC is rebuilt.
     
    If doing it with jacks and axle stands the main challenge is getting the height. The gearbox is quite tall so you need to lift the car a fair bit. Alternatively you could leave the gearbox under the car in the transmission tunnel area. The TC could just be removed from there.
     
    Gearbox oil temp, best with ISTA, can be an IR thermometer. Realistically most garages do it my hand. Hand on the sump = warm = OK. Measure the temperature of a hot tap and you get the idea. 60C feels pretty hot.
  18. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from d_a_n1979 in Steering wheel vibration when braking!!   
    I would say it's almost definitely a worn front suspension bush.
     
    The wear is often very hard to spot when everything is bolted together. One side will be slightly different to the other though and when the arm comes off it'll be clear the bush has failed. If you replaced some parts then look very closely at the ones that haven't been done.
  19. Like
    JasonH reacted to Keliuss in Swirl flaps are going back in.   
    Correct.
     
    Something else you should be aware of. In the UK your swirl flaps are going to be open most of winter, no matter what you drive like.
     
    Quote from newTIS
    "The swirl flaps generally remain open when
     
    the coolant temperature < 15 °C OR
    the intake air temperature < 15 °C"
     
    Ignore the coolant one, that's only in effect for a few minutes after starting the engine. The intake air temp below 15C is what I'm talking about. I can verify that my swirl flap motor has been more or less inactive since the start of November. I monitor intake temp and swirl flaps activation, bottom right corner:

     
    This screenshot is from a couple of months back. My observations are the flaps activation drops off under 15C down to about 10C, where they do nothing (0.0%). The 7.1% value above is how closed they are. So they are 92.9% open in above example. 
     
    During a regen in winter the flaps do close, but only when slowing down and sitting at the lights, exactly when the high exhaust temps drop off, but I can't see how this would help keeping the temps up much more. The flaps open up again fully once you pull off again. 
     
    Keliuss
  20. Thanks
    JasonH got a reaction from Dindiesel in Multiple Errors - All ideas welcome!   
    ISTA-D is INPA after 20 years of improvements - yes ISTA-D is much better (although it takes a bit longer to boot up and run its diagnostics).
  21. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from max535 in Charge-air pressure problems   
    I think the 41AB code comes from the pressure sensor that connects to the exhaust pipe. It's the pressure sensor beside the vacuum reservoir in the middle left hand side of the intake manifold (left as you look at the engine from the front of the car). The sensor has a foil wrapped pipe going down to the cat.
     
    If that pipe has a leak it could be your problem. The pipe could be blocked. The sensor duff, or it's just because you have a DPF delete.
     
    You have at least 3 pressure sensors on the car. There's an ambient pressure sensor in the DDE itself. There's the MAP sensor and there's this sensor.
     
    With just the ignition on (engine not running) all sensors should read roughly the same - ambient air pressure. If one does not then you get a 41AA or 41AB code.
     
    With the engine running there are various plausibility checks, for example the manifold pressure is higher than ambient and that there is some exhaust back pressure. If something isn't right you can get a 41AB code. So it might just be the DPF delete.
     
    I had a code that might have been 41AB (I can't remember exactly) after seriously cleaning my DPF and disabling the exhaust pipe flap. What happened was my exhaust back pressure at idle was reading 0 millibar and that was considered a fault. To fix it I reconnected the exhaust flap, the sensor read something like 5 millibars and all was well.
     
  22. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from arron9999 in 535D fluctuating RPM while driving   
    Oh your gearbox figures tell me that your gearbox is in excellent condition. 
     
  23. Thanks
    JasonH got a reaction from 535dean in E60/61 535d engine support whilst removing subframe   
    There is a hole in the bell housing just above the starter motor that is for lifting the engine.
     
    You can support the engine with a beam but you need to be careful because the front wings are aluminium and without spreading the load a bit you can press into the inner wings.
     
    I'll see if I can dig out some photos, I lifted my engine with a home made wood support. It was unbelievably solid!!!
  24. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from Keliuss in E60/61 535d engine support whilst removing subframe   
    Here you go.
     
    The scuttle plastic had to come off and the intake manifold otherwise the chain would have pressed into both of them and possibly cracked something.


  25. Like
    JasonH got a reaction from Keliuss in E60/61 535d engine support whilst removing subframe   
    Here you go.
     
    The scuttle plastic had to come off and the intake manifold otherwise the chain would have pressed into both of them and possibly cracked something.


×