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Everything posted by JasonH

  1. JasonH

    Tackling a blocked DPF.. (520d)

    Forced regens (keep resetting the code when driving) can clear it. A motorway drive for an hour should do a passive regen which may do it too.
  2. JasonH

    Which E61 bike carrier?

    I'd avoid putting bikes in the caravan.. They move around a lot because the caravan has little or no suspension.
  3. JasonH

    Poor beam pattern

    If the lenses are milky you'd be amazed how much that reduces the light coming out.
  4. JasonH

    Tackling a blocked DPF.. (520d)

    First job is to sort the thermostat. You can view the temperature via the hidden menu (accessible via the mileage trip reset button, search on youtube). With the thermostat fixed force a couple of regens and you might be fine. If not then drop the DPF and pressure wash it out (the holes in the DPF are blind so you can only wash it out one way).
  5. JasonH

    Which E61 bike carrier?

    I would hesitate to hang a mountain bike + rack off a few small hooks hanging on to the boot. If you have a towbar I'd get one that fits to that (but unfortunately if you use it when towing you need to factor in the effect on nose weight).
  6. JasonH

    Compression loss on 1 cylinder

    Did you car have swirl flaps? If so that's probably the cause, one has failed and been ingested. If you do take the head off you need to get the correct head gasket for your specific engine, it'll be 1, 2 or 3 holes (marked on the old gasket).
  7. JasonH

    E60 in 2021. Good Decision?

    The 3 litre diesel engines should easily do 200k miles without a problem if the oil has/is changed regularly. Your problem is everything else. A lot does go wrong and to be cost effective you really need to be able to fix the problems yourself. In comparison with my E61 (which has needed a lot of repairs over the years) two friends with F10's have had almost zero problems. My car hasn't ever actually broken down but so many things have needed fixing e.g. idrive, sunroof, torque converter, suspension arms front and back, wheel bearings, alternator, DPF clean, brake lines, vacuum lines, brake servo, etc. etc. However, I have had my E61 for 14 years. In comparison with other cars I've owned only a Vauxhall has needed as much maintenance as my E61 535d.
  8. JasonH

    What are these units

    A Google shows the units below the MULF are an aftermarket Sat Nav system.
  9. JasonH

    What are these units

    Looks like a tracker. It has a SIM card and an antenna. Could be one of those telematics (black box) units maybe.
  10. BMW 535d Pre-LCi M57 engine After not much use over the last year I’ve started to get an odd noise immediately after start up. Not always and it only lasts for a fraction of a second to perhaps a second. A nasty screech, not a belt more metallic. Car otherwise runs absolutely perfectly. It would only happen when the engine was cold. I narrowed the sound to the starter motor. It seemed to me that the starter motor was not disengaging quickly enough so I initially removed the starter solenoid, it looked OK but was dry. Greased as per the BMW TIS. No change at all. Eventually it was annoying me enough that I decided to replace the starter motor. Got a re-manufactured one from Eurocarparts. Fitted the ‘new’ part and now I have the same sort of problem but a different sound….sometimes when the car is started, after it starts, for never more than 2 seconds I can hear the starter motor spinning at a speed it was never designed to. It’s now more of a whirr sound than a screech but the car never used to make a sound like this. So stethoscope on the engine, nothing from the front pulleys, alternator fine, power steering pump fine….starter motor deafening. I then connected a bulb to the solenoid on the starter motor and I’ve established that the starter motor is doing what it’s supposed to but the bulb is staying lit for a moment or two (variable duration) after the engine fires. The engine always starts instantly. The bulb illumination is totally synchronised with the noise. So the starter motor is staying engaged for a moment or two after starting. Now is this normal??? Is it just that my failing starter motor sounded very bad and the re-manufactured one isn’t too clever either? Or is the starter motor control the issue?
  11. Very interesting. Does back up my theory that xhp boosts the E Clutch pressures. Thanks for posting up the data. For the fastest 0 to 60 in a 535d I believe it's manual mode, start in 2nd and hit 60 still in 2nd. Left foot on brake, floor the accelerator (revs will stop at 2500rpm). Once at 2500rpm let off the brake. You have to remember to get your left foot off the brake once moving because when I brake with my left it's pretty severe!!! With that launch my car will take chunks out of the tyres on really rough tarmac. It can also leave some epic rubber on the road (both wheels despite no LSD). But when it all hooks up the 0 to 60 is fast.
  12. JasonH

    Bloody Idrive !!!

    I had my CCC fixed twice...first one from a chap on ebay and the fix lasted just over a year. Second time I went for MCA Romania, they did an excellent job and it's still good perhaps 2 years later. Once it starts doing the reboot thing it only gets worse.
  13. JasonH

    Brake pipes

    If you are talking hard brake lines: Cunifer is the optimum solution. Tough, reasonably flexible and does not rust. Copper in theory can work harden and fracture however countless garages use it because it's easy to bend and flare. Steel is hard to bend and flare and will rust... If the issue is the flexible ones, loads of replacements are available. Even premium brands are not expensive.
  14. 1. Probably the blower motor rather than the resistor on the E60\E61. I don't think the motor changed much so you should be OK but double check that the part number you get from realoem.com is the same one on a 2009 car. 2. You need a code reader - it will tell you the exact problem. 3. Tailgate glass button is a common failure but it could also be the tailgate wiring as it goes through the hinges. 4. This is usually the bushing on the front suspension arms. Typically the big fluid filled bush where the top arm bolts to the chassis. You need to study the bushes whilst someone else turns the steering from side to side with the wheels on the ground. That will force the bushes to move. Compare the bush with the equivalent on the other side. It doesn't take much play to cause a big judder under hard braking at high speed.
  15. JasonH

    Panoramic sunroof problems

    There is a go for broke option......but I don't think you should try this until you have the new motor. Try to open the glass, assist the mechanism by pushing the glass down and back whilst someone else presses the button. If you can push the glass at, at least the speed the motor would then it will open. Once open you should be able to open the blind. The challenge is closing it with a broken motor drive - almost impossible. What happens is the glass doesn't move at the expected speed, the motor sees that as something trapped and goes into reverse and it keeps opening (well if it can move the glass). Having said all that if the blind motor is truly dead (dead before the roof jammed) then I think you need the glass and blind closed to access the blind motor.
  16. JasonH

    Panoramic sunroof problems

    I don't think that's the blind motor. If you are pressing and holding the button rather than clicking it once you are probably starting a teach-in cycle. The mechanism needs to get the sunroof in the correct position before it will attempt to move the blind. So it's trying to lift the main glass and failing. There's a rubber gasket between the two glasses. If you had something wide but thin like folded steel in an L shape you might be able to at least lift the glass whilst you press the button. If it does lift then you should then be able to wiggle out your tool. Actually a sucker on the glass might work. Maybe a lot of gaffer tape? Even if you replace the motor you really need to lubricate all the mechanism or the new motor will fail too. The force needed to move even a lubricated mechanism is a lot.
  17. JasonH

    Panoramic sunroof problems

    The shade has a separate motor at the back. It's the same part as the front motor. I'd try helping the shade at the same time as pressing the button. If you've lost a few teeth on the motor you might get past that. Or together it might move the shade. With the shade back you can remove the glass - that allows you to nudge the mechanism along by hand. If you are trying to move the roof by hand or the mechanism by hand then remove the motor first. The motor adds loads and loads of resistance when moving the roof or mechanism.
  18. JasonH

    Urgent Headlight help.

    If you put your VIN into realoem.com you can find the part number for your car. Then click on the part and see which other BMW models use the same part. If an E65 is listed you're in business, if not I'd steer clear, the odds of it working will be pretty low.
  19. JasonH

    Headlight restoration kits any good

    I've polished headlights quite a few times. No need for a kit just work through wet and dry grades from about 800 to around 2000 then polish. The problem is that this will look great for about 6 months then the headlights will start to yellow from exposure to UV. The best solution is to get a bodyshop to put some clear lacquer on them (ideally when they're doing another car so it only costs you a few quid). I got about 6 years and perfect headlights once, then stone chips caused the lacquer to peel. After that I did the same but I did it in January and something went a bit wrong with the lacquer so it was very slightly milky. I suspect if the lacquer had been on paint you wouldn't have noticed but on a headlight it really bugged me. So this time, it being lockdown I'm trialling a home polish + ceramic coating. It should protect from UV and if I reapply annually I'm hoping all will be well. The nightmare this time was that the chap who did my milky lacquer did me the favour of putting the thickest coat of lacquer I've ever seen and it took ages to sand off, even with 600 grit and an electric drill!! Here's one of the recently polished headlamps with ceramic coating.
  20. JasonH

    Increased Battery Discharge, trace with ISTA?

    If you are doing 1 mile journeys (only) in it you may just have a killed/dead battery. On my car, an older 535d, that alone definitely kills the battery because from the moment you unlock the car every system on the car boots up and together draw over 20A, you then use charge starting the car and finally when you get out the car stays powered up for 16 mins. Overall each journey takes far more out of the battery than you put in. One long journey once a week will put the charge back in (and is good for the DPF) but if you don't do that my car will start to flag battery errors. If you think you truly have a problem you need to find the fault before replacing the battery because if you fully discharge the new one you'll damage it. If it might just be the usage pattern then charge the battery once a week and see what happens.
  21. JasonH

    535d Cabin Smoke at cold start

    Exhaust in the cabin on a 535d is almost always the exhaust flexi. The exhaust wafts up the bulkhead and into the cabin filters. On the older 530d's it could be the exhaust manifold, they used to crack all the time but on the 535d the exhaust manifold is cast and never leaks.
  22. JasonH

    Increased Battery Discharge, trace with ISTA?

    Is 12.1V with the ignition on or the battery at float with no load? 12.1V with the ignition on this time of year isn't that bad. You mention battery fully charged. Is the car on a trickle charger or being charged externally? The reason I ask is that having a car on long term charge can confuse the IBS from time to time. I don't think it has a message for "unexpected charging" so it pops up "Increased Battery Discharge". Anyway if you do have a discharge problem once you have a fault code ISTA will take you to the battery diagnostics (I can never remember how to get there otherwise). It will tell you the state of charge of the battery and when the drain occurred which should help you narrow down the possible causes.
  23. JasonH

    535d Rear Silencer Flap Operation

    The actuator is in the boot, opposite side to the battery, behind a side panel. You should be able to just rev the car to see the flap open. However I think it closes under vacuum and opens without a vacuum. If you simply disconnect the vac pipe (and traditionally block it with a golf Tee) then the flap stays open and makes more noise at lower revs.
  24. JasonH

    AGM Battery

    Sorry I can't help on the coding side.
  25. JasonH

    AGM Battery

    Fair enough. Yes if coded for lead acid and doing a few hundred miles you could well overcharge an AGM.