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JasonH

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JasonH last won the day on July 6 2020

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About JasonH

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    BMW 535d

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  1. JasonH

    Tackling a blocked DPF.. (520d)

    Forced regens (keep resetting the code when driving) can clear it. A motorway drive for an hour should do a passive regen which may do it too.
  2. JasonH

    Which E61 bike carrier?

    I'd avoid putting bikes in the caravan.. They move around a lot because the caravan has little or no suspension.
  3. JasonH

    Poor beam pattern

    If the lenses are milky you'd be amazed how much that reduces the light coming out.
  4. JasonH

    Tackling a blocked DPF.. (520d)

    First job is to sort the thermostat. You can view the temperature via the hidden menu (accessible via the mileage trip reset button, search on youtube). With the thermostat fixed force a couple of regens and you might be fine. If not then drop the DPF and pressure wash it out (the holes in the DPF are blind so you can only wash it out one way).
  5. JasonH

    Which E61 bike carrier?

    I would hesitate to hang a mountain bike + rack off a few small hooks hanging on to the boot. If you have a towbar I'd get one that fits to that (but unfortunately if you use it when towing you need to factor in the effect on nose weight).
  6. JasonH

    Compression loss on 1 cylinder

    Did you car have swirl flaps? If so that's probably the cause, one has failed and been ingested. If you do take the head off you need to get the correct head gasket for your specific engine, it'll be 1, 2 or 3 holes (marked on the old gasket).
  7. JasonH

    E60 in 2021. Good Decision?

    The 3 litre diesel engines should easily do 200k miles without a problem if the oil has/is changed regularly. Your problem is everything else. A lot does go wrong and to be cost effective you really need to be able to fix the problems yourself. In comparison with my E61 (which has needed a lot of repairs over the years) two friends with F10's have had almost zero problems. My car hasn't ever actually broken down but so many things have needed fixing e.g. idrive, sunroof, torque converter, suspension arms front and back, wheel bearings, alternator, DPF clean, brake lines, vacuum lines, brake servo, etc. etc. However, I have had my E61 for 14 years. In comparison with other cars I've owned only a Vauxhall has needed as much maintenance as my E61 535d.
  8. JasonH

    What are these units

    A Google shows the units below the MULF are an aftermarket Sat Nav system.
  9. JasonH

    What are these units

    Looks like a tracker. It has a SIM card and an antenna. Could be one of those telematics (black box) units maybe.
  10. BMW 535d Pre-LCi M57 engine After not much use over the last year I’ve started to get an odd noise immediately after start up. Not always and it only lasts for a fraction of a second to perhaps a second. A nasty screech, not a belt more metallic. Car otherwise runs absolutely perfectly. It would only happen when the engine was cold. I narrowed the sound to the starter motor. It seemed to me that the starter motor was not disengaging quickly enough so I initially removed the starter solenoid, it looked OK but was dry. Greased as per the BMW TIS. No change at all. Eventually it was annoying me enough that I decided to replace the starter motor. Got a re-manufactured one from Eurocarparts. Fitted the ‘new’ part and now I have the same sort of problem but a different sound….sometimes when the car is started, after it starts, for never more than 2 seconds I can hear the starter motor spinning at a speed it was never designed to. It’s now more of a whirr sound than a screech but the car never used to make a sound like this. So stethoscope on the engine, nothing from the front pulleys, alternator fine, power steering pump fine….starter motor deafening. I then connected a bulb to the solenoid on the starter motor and I’ve established that the starter motor is doing what it’s supposed to but the bulb is staying lit for a moment or two (variable duration) after the engine fires. The engine always starts instantly. The bulb illumination is totally synchronised with the noise. So the starter motor is staying engaged for a moment or two after starting. Now is this normal??? Is it just that my failing starter motor sounded very bad and the re-manufactured one isn’t too clever either? Or is the starter motor control the issue?
  11. Very interesting. Does back up my theory that xhp boosts the E Clutch pressures. Thanks for posting up the data. For the fastest 0 to 60 in a 535d I believe it's manual mode, start in 2nd and hit 60 still in 2nd. Left foot on brake, floor the accelerator (revs will stop at 2500rpm). Once at 2500rpm let off the brake. You have to remember to get your left foot off the brake once moving because when I brake with my left it's pretty severe!!! With that launch my car will take chunks out of the tyres on really rough tarmac. It can also leave some epic rubber on the road (both wheels despite no LSD). But when it all hooks up the 0 to 60 is fast.
  12. JasonH

    Bloody Idrive !!!

    I had my CCC fixed twice...first one from a chap on ebay and the fix lasted just over a year. Second time I went for MCA Romania, they did an excellent job and it's still good perhaps 2 years later. Once it starts doing the reboot thing it only gets worse.
  13. JasonH

    Brake pipes

    If you are talking hard brake lines: Cunifer is the optimum solution. Tough, reasonably flexible and does not rust. Copper in theory can work harden and fracture however countless garages use it because it's easy to bend and flare. Steel is hard to bend and flare and will rust... If the issue is the flexible ones, loads of replacements are available. Even premium brands are not expensive.
  14. 1. Probably the blower motor rather than the resistor on the E60\E61. I don't think the motor changed much so you should be OK but double check that the part number you get from realoem.com is the same one on a 2009 car. 2. You need a code reader - it will tell you the exact problem. 3. Tailgate glass button is a common failure but it could also be the tailgate wiring as it goes through the hinges. 4. This is usually the bushing on the front suspension arms. Typically the big fluid filled bush where the top arm bolts to the chassis. You need to study the bushes whilst someone else turns the steering from side to side with the wheels on the ground. That will force the bushes to move. Compare the bush with the equivalent on the other side. It doesn't take much play to cause a big judder under hard braking at high speed.
  15. JasonH

    Panoramic sunroof problems

    There is a go for broke option......but I don't think you should try this until you have the new motor. Try to open the glass, assist the mechanism by pushing the glass down and back whilst someone else presses the button. If you can push the glass at, at least the speed the motor would then it will open. Once open you should be able to open the blind. The challenge is closing it with a broken motor drive - almost impossible. What happens is the glass doesn't move at the expected speed, the motor sees that as something trapped and goes into reverse and it keeps opening (well if it can move the glass). Having said all that if the blind motor is truly dead (dead before the roof jammed) then I think you need the glass and blind closed to access the blind motor.
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