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JasonH

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About JasonH

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    BMW 535d

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  1. I can't be 100% that the 530d and the 535d gearboxes are the same but they have the same gear ratios and the same replacement parts. As you say BMW give them different part numbers but I can't find anything online that gives any physical differences. The 1068 010 will be stamped into the cast bell housing, the 1068 012 is likely to be on a sticker because a set of 1068 010 mechanics becomes 1068 012 when programmed. Your problem is that 1068 010 (or once programmed 1068 012) ZF6HP26's seem to be in a lot of BMW's like say a 745i so maybe you have to go further down the part number, or maybe it doesn't really matter. Here's a snip I saved from somewhere: The part number stamped on the side of my pre-LCi 535d is 1068 010 120.
  2. You ideally need a gearbox from a 530d - will have had an easier life than a 535d and the same torque convertor and mechatronics as a 535d. A 525d gearbox might work but the Torque Convertor will not be suitable. As you have a pre-LCi car you need a pre-LCi gearbox because the parking mechanism is mechanical on the pre-LCi. The correct gearbox will have 1068 010 stamped on the side.
  3. Nightmare! Mostly minor damage but unfortunately that won't be cheap - not if it's repaired by a dealer.
  4. You can use the hidden menu (accessed by holding the odometer trip reset button) to monitor the voltage as the car sees it. It's menu 9 I think. The temperature used to set the charge voltage will probably come from the IBS located next to the battery - so you can't easily see what that is.
  5. Actually you can see on the dash it's 3.5C. 14.8V might be OK at that temperature. Stable with no spikes is what you need, the spikes (and dips) generate a lot of fault codes.
  6. Well the good news is the voltage is stable whatever the revs. The copper on the shaft looks fine to me. 14.8V is on the high side but is that meter calibrated? What is the ambient temperature? If it's cold I think a higher charge voltage might be used.
  7. For the regulator there is no coding, no programming, just replace it. From memory you can do it from the top of the car. There are perhaps 3 nuts, maybe 10mm, that you undo to remove the cover on the back of the alternator then you can replace the regulator/brush module. Once replaced I'd check the voltage when idling, it shouldn't go above 14.5V. It should be stable. Note that some digital multimeters will really smooth out the voltage reads so you won't see the voltage jumping around. Then delete all the fault codes and see how you go from there.
  8. 15.25V is too high. If you've never changed the alternator regulator I'd start there. It only takes 10 minutes and the regulator comes with new brushes. Unstable voltage will cause lots of random fault codes.
  9. Hooray! Glad it's sorted.
  10. Surely if the car is a manual, the car is in gear and someone is standing on the brakes (standing on the brakes because you'll have no or limited servo assistance) the crank will be locked. Scaffold bar on a breaker bar take up all the slack/tension then pull sharply. Another technique is this: lock the crank with the gears and brakes, get someone hanging on the scaffold pole and then hit the end of the bolt with a hammer.
  11. Sounds like you have tried everything. Daft question warning... It's not a reverse thread bolt is it?
  12. I'm glad you eventually found the source of the problem. One option might be to press out the bushes and fit poly bushes assuming the balljoints at the other end are good.
  13. JasonH

    AGM battery replacement

    That won't make a difference and it won't need coding. I suggest fully charging the new one before fitting it. Then register the battery replacement when you fit it.
  14. JasonH

    Is it worth it?

    That is a nightmare. I can't believe how hard the impact must have been. I guess you'll just have to battle to get something near what it's worth from the insurance then get yourself an F10.
  15. JasonH

    ZF 6hp26 oil change

    If you have a lead already that worked then you do just need an ISTA-D download. If you just want to read the gearbox adaptations and have an Android phone then download the xHP app from the Google Play Store and buy a USB to Go cable from ebay for a couple of pounds. That allows you to plug your PC USB to OBD cable into your phone. If you want a portable tool that's BMW specific and does pretty much everything a C310 scanner from ebay for around £40 is a good option.
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