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sinner last won the day on January 6

sinner had the most liked content!

About sinner

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  • Birthday 12/12/1985

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    Cycling, cars and science
  • Occupation
    Science and stuff


  • Garage
    E39 530d Touring

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  1. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Was supposed to be doing a bike race in Yorkshire last week, but it flooded pretty badly. So I stayed south and used the time to fix a few things. Something had been up with the rear suspension for a few weeks now; sitting lower, not great damping and rattly. Turns out the top mounts had given up. Bit grumpy about this considering they were fitted new at Christmas, from a what I thought was a reputable company. They’ve been swapped out for OEM, which actually cost roughly the same as I’d paid for the last set. As the saying goes: buy cheap, buy twice – and pay for the repairs… While I had the car up, I fitted some new a exhaust mounts. No more rattles anywhere. Bliss. Also took care of the hot + cold air-con by fitting a new heater control valve. Strangely, I could find no obvious fault with the old valve, solenoids functioned as they should and the seals were all intact. There was only a very slight build up of material on one plunger. Anyway, all vents are blowing cold again, so happy with that. I finally got around to fitting the dummy volume-control valve to the CP3. The dummy has been cross drilled with four 2.5 mm diameter ports, and the central bore is 3.3 mm. This is the internal diameter of the spring inside the original valve, and the maximum the valve can be opened up to. Of course, I can increase the diameter of the bore as needed, but I doubt it will be. Clearance of the coolant line is much improved. Since its runs wide open in the E39, with pressure controlled at the rail, the CP3 is always pushing its maximum volume. None of the efficiency savings of the later diesels here. I decided to up the rail pressure to 1700 Bar (thanks to Enda for the help adjusting the table). With the pump already working for it, there is no extra stress. The results are good, running very smoothly, without any errors. Took a trip over to Carmarthenshire, had a really excellent drive back through the Brecons. Well worth a visit, if the weather is on side, really beautiful roads. Cheers
  2. sinner

    sold please delete

    Witter towbar: https://www.tridenttowing.co.uk/tow-bars-c2/fixed-flange-c106/witter-bm14a-fixed-flange-neck-tow-bar-bmw-5-series-touring-1997-2004-p6977 Removed this from my touring as I haven't used it since owning the car. All in good condition, was careful taking out fittings and wiring. £75 collection preferred from Portsmouth area
  3. sinner

    Touring subframe mounts

    Not really, only when lifting the engine. One way to test is with the bonnet up, start the car and and put it in gear, look for any excess rocking movement in the engine. like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BX_uXd524Qo
  4. sinner

    Touring subframe mounts

    The subframe mounts were noticeable on rougher roads, where everything got very clattery at the back. Particularly so with passengers in the back. The engine mount was as you describe: on/off power, and harsher gear changes. Weirdly, it sounded like it was coming from the diff mounts. Had the same on my last two 530ds. I think the left engine mount must see a lot more torque, as it had fatigued through at the base.
  5. sinner

    Touring subframe mounts

    I had similar knock, that turned out to be the left engine mount. Only found it after changing subframe (which were knackered), gearbox, and diff mounts...
  6. A ZF GS6-53DZ (HGA). It's all in my project thread.
  7. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Thanks @d_a_n1979. You're probably right. I do love the 32s, only wish I'd waited for a set in E39 fitment, as the spacers are a ballache. Should probably bore them out when I next change the tyres. Yours is looking good on the 37s. What are you thinking of next?
  8. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Now have a couple of thousand miles on the CP3, and it’s been faultless. Averaged 51.3 mpg on the last drive back from Switzerland to Portsmouth, which is a pleasant improvement of the usual 47 mpg. Rail pressure is 1600 Bar, thinking of pushing it up to 1700 Bar. It’s a lot less smokey; cleaning noticeably less soot of the back after a long run. All in all, very happy! Less pleasant was the broken AC… This had been on the list for a while, but the recent weather compounded it. Vacuum tested, lubricated, and re-gassed the system, also fitted a new aux fan assembly. The girlfriend approved. AC is working a treat now, but it seems a heater control valve has crapped out, as my feet are getting very warm air no matter the setting. So that is a pressing next on the list. I noticed something strange with the throttle; when maxed the DDE light would come on and power would cut, regardless of speed or RPM. Turns out the auto pedal (35426786281) has a touch more range than the manual, and the manual ECU has no idea what to do with it. The solution was to change the pedal for a manual (35426786282). The manual pedal (B in the picture) has a couple of additional tabs in the plug that need cutting out before it will fit. While I was in the US, I picked up a FASS fuel pressure regulator. These are popular with the Cummins and Duramax folks. It’s quite well made, but NPT led to the usual alignment issues; bugs me that the pressure gauge is a little off centre. But, I am too lazy to cut it any deeper. I made a little bracket to mount off of the fuel filter support. It’s working a treat, and the Marshall gauge is surprisingly accurate. The return from the regulator joins the CP3 return (low pressure), and then to the cold return at the feed of the 044. I left the preheat switch out, as I am sure the rail return is always hot enough to go via the cooler directly to the tank. It’s all connected like so: I decided to remove the tow bar as it's only been used as a parking sensor. Must have weighed twenty something kilos! Sits a bit higher at the back now. Found some terrifying wiring while stripping it out; no solder, no tape, just twisted on. Everything is properly insulated now. Swapped out the steering wheel too. I brought a bare wheel from @V8Warrior, which Royal retrimmed. Can’t recommend Royal enough, great service and very easy to deal with. The summer wheels are back on, and it is driving beautifully. Although, I am having bad thoughts about a set of style 65s... The car will be enjoyed in the mountains for a few weeks before the next mods and fixes. Even the handbrake works! Cheers
  9. Manual 5 speed box taken from my old 530d, was going to use it to convert my new touring from auto, but went 6 speed. So this is now spare. Box had covered about 200k, but worked perfectly. The original clutch and flywheel was hardly worn. Have most parts needed for manual conversion, that will be included: Gearbox ZF GS5-39DZ Gear selector and linkage Gearbox mount (+ new rubbers) Tunnel brace, that sits across the autobox mounts CG uprated clutch cover (I never got a round to fitting this). £150.00 Collection preferred, but can pallet at buyers expense . Based in Hampshire. Cheers
  10. sinner

    E39 530d Potential Purchase Advice

    I had a Feb 2000, that was pre facelift. Have a feeling that was one of the last. Easy to check if it has OBD-II under the dash, or the round connector under the bonnet.
  11. sinner

    E39 530d Potential Purchase Advice

    If the body is sound, everything else is comparably cheap to fix. Gearbox (assuming auto) and turbo are the next most expensive to fix, and they're easy enough to test. Hope you've found a good one!
  12. sinner

    Rear Doorcards Tops Swap Over

  13. Looking good. Those wheels fit so much better. Are you going to change the ARBs?
  14. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Yes. In this application, the volume-control valve at the pump is not energized, which sends maximum fuel to the HP circuit. There are none of the efficiency advantages usually associated with the CP3, only the increased rail pressure. The only pressure regulation is from the volume control valve in the rail, so this return line from the rail is going to be hot. Probably, hotter than the original given the higher operating pressure, so the preheat valve would always direct via the cooler. That combined with a blocked/deleted inlet regulator means only one return line would ever be used. I do agree with you, in that if I had an uprated regulator to hand, I would have left the preheat valve in place. I must admit, I do not fully understand how the throttling of the surge connection works in the 5-way valve. It was just too messy a job to test. I see your point of the unrestricted return. I was concerned that some of the extra pressure/heat in the line would be directed toward the inlet. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Edit: Think I've got it now: in the 5 way valve, fuel from the cooler goes straight to the tank(no danger of mixing at the inlet), fuel from the direct return can be sent to the inlet if pressure behind the pump is too low. Is that right? _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Yes, I was aware of the E46 setup, I assumed the difference with the E60 was due to the in tank pump, and BMW updating an existing platform. I think there is also a thermocouple in the M57N E46, at the tank side of the LP pump. But, the M57 E46 pre-supply system was closer to the E39, with the thermocouple before the cooler. I should point out that I updated the LP pump to a Bosch 044 because I was having fuelling issues long before the CP3 conversion. At the time, the errors looked like a pump failure (Kraftstoffvorfoerderdruck 0.14 Bar).
  15. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    A short update. Huge thanks to Enda for helping with the map, and advice in general. It is all working. Rail pressure is currently set to 1600 Bar. I can now use the full rev range - no more cutting at 3.5k due to rail-pressure plausibility. It was snowing here over the weekend, so I took a little road trip down to Italy. The car has done ~350 miles with the CP3 fitted. Torque and power are great, very smooth, efficiency is good at 47 mpg. Although, I have not pushed it hard as it's still on winter wheels. As usual another error has shown up. This time, intermittent boost loss at around 2k RPM, with MAP reporting ~1.5 Bar. I am suspecting a vacuum problem, as this seems too infrequent (only 6 times) to be a boost leak. Next on the list is an adjustable regulator to replace the fuel inlet pressure relief. Then an oil catch can, to collect the oil that the turbo is sucking past the crankcase breather. Cheers