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sinner

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sinner last won the day on August 28 2020

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About sinner

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 12/12/1985

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bern
  • Interests
    Cycling, cars and science
  • Occupation
    Science and stuff

Garage

  • Garage
    E39 530d Touring

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  1. sinner

    E39 530d touring "chasing the ponies"

    Good looking car. Props to you for the work so far. That is going to be very cool! Did you do a stud conversion when you had the cams out? (those numbers might be worth it) If you're putting a gs6-53dz in there, you might have issues with the splines on the clutch plate (ask me how i know...). pretty sure it's a 26 tooth they need. I've just designed some proper brackets for the rail conversion, I'll post the volume model tomorrow.
  2. sinner

    BIG BRAKE KITS - The truth is out there....

    Yes, fresh OEM disc with a good pads (EBC colourful stuff, DS2500, etc) will go a long way to improving the E39 brakes. Bigger rotors are even better, but, as has been mentioned, I don't see much point in larger calipers off the track. I don't think an argument of power makes much sense as these are heavy cars; even a 520i can be cruising at 80 mph and still have an idiot pull out on them. Before COVID, I was driving a lot of new rentals with work. None handled anywhere near as nicely as the E39 (actually the new A4 was pretty good, but we wont get into that), but almost all had better brakes. By modern standards and for a car of its mass, the E39 is way under braked and the stock pedal feel is not great. This is even more of an issue with cars that have the 298 mm up front. The 324 mm is ok, but the 345 mm is noticeably better (emergency stop and continual braking). Note that the M5's 345 mm is still smaller in diameter than a 2009 520d (348 mm). If you can fit a larger diameter disc, do. The calipers on the 324 mm and 345 mm are the same (bar the expensive M logo), so you only need to change the carriers. If you are not going with floating rotors, it's not that expensive and upgrade. Rear brakes are another more expensive story. Although, @V8Warrior has a nice video on this. As for pedal feel, braided lines help, a bit. Honestly though, I struggled to feel a difference between braided and fresh OEM lines (sure, there is a hell of a difference with old baggy lines). I think a better argument for braided is that PTFE is not going to swell and they are very, very, hard to damage. Swapping out the master cylinder for an E65/66/67 unit (34336785926) will make a bigger improvement. There's a lot on this in the m5board. Note, all E39s with DSC share the same master cylinder (34311165544), 520i to M5, and all have a soft pedal feel compared to something more modern.
  3. sinner

    Mice (wiring related)

    Flash cooling a joint after soldering helps keep it malleable. I often do both, crimp and then solder to fill any voids, and reduce the chance of pulling out. AMP do some nice parallel crimp connections that are tinned for exactly that. You can get good crimp tools for not a lot of money these days. Have a look on amazon.
  4. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    There is more to it than just those numbers, the 535d has a different head and compression ratio, the later ones even had larger inlet valves. Those sort of numbers from an E39 are possible. Take a look at @Stage 4 's build. As a build plan, that is a good one to follow. I can't really comment on the gains of what I have done, as I never measured anything. I will at some point. Give me a dm if you want to chat further, I am happy to discuss this stuff - it's cool.
  5. sinner

    Upgrade rail pressure sensor for 530d

    The sensor from the later diesels will fit, part number 0281002497. I've fitted them by modifying the original mount, and installing a copper gasket. But, clearance is very tight to the manifold, so it's probably better to make an in-line extension that matches OD and ID threads. As you mention, the linearisation is different. Pretty sure they are the same type (diaphragm + wheatstone bridge) with a 0 mV to 70 mV output. But, 70 mV on the new corresponds to 1800 bar, whereas the old was 1500 bar. If you try to run it without changing the linearisation, the desired and actual rail pressure will deviate very fast and ECU will cut power.
  6. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Sorry for the late response, work is insane at the moment. @Sagnak Thank you very much! I’ll give you a DM. Regarding the catch can, I chose not to drain back to sump for simplicity. Also, I check the oil often enough and preferred topping up with fresh oil. Since fitting it, the drain can is still not yet full; the extra line + large volume of the catch can seems have reduced the dP at the crankcase breather. Surprisingly, it is using less oil than it used to and there is no more oil in the turbo outlet. Maybe it’s just slowly filling up with meth... @bronx1987 I don’t think those numbers are quite right. First thing is that the injector itself is larger on the M57N, so regardless of nozzles they flow more fuel. Hence, more fuel needed at the lower end of the injection tables. (I am not convinced these are actually needed in the M57, as people get strong results only swapping nozzles). In short, a comparison to the M57 nozzles is not really fair, the injector body should also be considered. For the M57N, the 535d uses DLLA 160 P 1415 with 160 degree spray angle with 8 x 0.2 µm ports. (Can’t actually find specs for this, but that’s what I noted a few years back from discussions with the local Bosch tech). To convert the M57N injector to an M57 engine while maintaining the same port volume, you need the DLLA 145 P 1655, which has a 145 degree spray angle and 8 x 0.2 µm ports. For the M57, I don’t know what port volume to aim for. I’m sure Darkside know what they are doing/selling. The Seven catalogue is, or was, a good resource for checking specs. If you want more background, have a search on https://www.ecuconnections.com/forum/ this has been discussed to death for getting on 10 years. Also, talk to a Bosch/injector specialist, there’s a lot of documentation that is not publicly available. Post your finding in the E39 section, it will be easier for others to find there. Finally, an update. Beyond fitting winter wheels and a heavy coat of Waxoyl, I haven’t had time to do much. Fortunately, sometimes it’s the little things that make the difference. I managed to find a leather armrest, took all of 10 min to install and it’s probably my favourite interior modification. More updates soon, I hope. Cheers,
  7. sinner

    New turbo v2!!!

    Did you change your MAP sensor? Did you have the car remapped/change the target boost? The ECU may well think it has an over or under(bigger turbo so laggier low down) boost situation. As the standard sensor is is only good for 1.4 barg, and the original target boost is bellow that. Your turbo is probably exceeding that higher up , and your ecu is tying to keep the boost near its target with the vane control. Lower down, the ecu could be over fuelling to account to increase boost. If this the case, it is an easy fix, new MAP sensors are not expensive and they only need the linearisation changing in the map. Better not speculate though. As Ray says, what errors is it throwing? If you have INPA, also install Testo http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1830510-Diagnostic-program-with-realtime-graph-view Log target boost and actual boost. You will see any deviation.
  8. sinner

    E39 530D manual swap problem

    What errors is it throwing? Did anything else change on the car? ...MAP sensor etc? Do you have Testo? http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1830510-Diagnostic-program-with-realtime-graph-view It's worth logging: target boost, actual boost, target rail, actual rail, and presupply. I've seen issues like that when the rail is over or undershooting target pressure. logging presupply will tell you if the problem is before or after the CP1.
  9. sinner

    E39 530D manual swap problem

    Are you sure you have a manual pedal? Did you have to modify it to fit the connector? I had this problem after a manual swap, but it was down to the auto pedal. For me, when maxed throttle the DDE light would come on and power would cut, regardless of speed or RPM. Turns out the auto pedal (35426786281) has a touch more range than the manual (kick down...), and the manual ECU has no idea what to do with it. The solution was to change the pedal for a manual (35426786282). The manual pedal has a couple of additional tabs in the plug socket that need cutting out before it will fit. Manual is B in this picture
  10. sinner

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    I basically kept removing trim, earth points, sound proofing... etc until it slid in. There was a thread about it on here a few years ago, I just copied that. There is none of the usual battery support in there any more, only the one over the top , but that thing too big to go anywhere. Getting it out again will be fun...
  11. sinner

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    I managed to fit a Bosch s5 015 in mine. I am not sure how the naming to sizing works, but the dimensions are 393 mm long x 175 mm wide x 190 mm tall.
  12. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    Thanks Dennis, Yes, happy to help. Send a PM whenever. I'd prefer that to filling the thread with discussions.
  13. sinner

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    I haven't had a chance to test anything yet. Parts are sat on my desk, just need work to slow down a bit.
  14. sinner

    New turbo v2!!!

    It may be worth swapping out the rubber section of the return line; number 13 here: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DP82-EUR-04-2003-E39-BMW-530d&diagId=11_7586 They age with heat cycles and multiple refits. I don't think it's so expensive from BMW.
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