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V_MAX

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Everything posted by V_MAX

  1. V_MAX

    My Big Silver Shark

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    When this picture was taken, the left corner under the rear light was not fully fixed and painted, after reversing into a table top in my garage that I had forgotten to fold down after use, smashing the rear left light and made a hefty dent into the left underside of the rear light. I decided to buy a genuine Hella silver color rear lights, instead of the red sins the lights seem to fit the color of the car pretty well, and make the car seem a lite bit sleeker and more in harmony with the front headlights. The most pleasantly bizarre thing is that the color of the car (aspen silver/922), it constantly changes depending on the weather and the surroundings. All the images of the car are the original photos and there is no photo shopping done to any of my pictures. In this picture the color is almost like it has a purple/violet color on the upper half, and somewhat rusty red color like the sand on the bottom half. Sometimes when it is overcast it turns into stone dead dull gray. It's like it has a mood of its own.
  2. V_MAX

    Deletion Of The Throttle Body Heater

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Deleting the warm up for the throttle body housing was my last attempt to lower the intake air heat. For some reason I was reluctant for years, to delete this BMW feature. I thought to myself, that there must be some reason for going through all the trouble of designing warm-up features into the throttle housing, as if this was a piston airplane engine that you turn the carb. heat on, mostly when you are coming in for landing to prevent the carburetor to ice up and consequently, you lose all power, with a possible bad or fatal ending. I remember when I was learning to fly that you had much less power, if you forgot to cut off the carb. heat, after touch and go. I read somewhere that BMW introduced this feature due to some possibly related accidents due to a throttle body ice-up under certain weather circumstances and therefore, consequently you might end up with an open full throttle, or more likely a closed throttle with no power and a panic attack. Another hypothesis I have been rolling around in my head is; that most likely BMW introduced this to make a stable environment for the tuning of the ECU/engine, sins this would hold a steady and stable heat on the intake ambient air and smaller intake air heat variants. This would benefit the environment and lower emission sins the ECU is not coping with large swings in ambient air heat. On the other side, it bothers me that; the MS41 ECU is a magnificent peace of computer programing and all the parameters are there, to cope with amongst other tings, a different intake heat and ambient heat, so why did the engineers at BMW do this? honestly, I have not found a definite answer to that question yet. Maybe it is different for an M52 intake manifold than the M50 sins the intake plenum are much narrower on the M52 and thereby it would create higher air velocity/venturi and colder intake air to the head, this is just a speculation on my behalf but the fact is; that venturi effect drastically reduces the ambient air temperature in a carburetor up to 70° sins it partly relies on ventuti effect, due to restrictions in the neck (that is where the icing occurs in conjunction with the butterfly) of the carburetor, but in our case there are considerably little restrictions in the throttle body itself exempt the butterfly but still, there is a possibility of icing happening if the circumstances are correct. The initial tests after bypassing the water hoses leading to the throttle body and blocking of the holes show; that the water coolant, that had at times reach almost 99°c /210°f fell down to steady 87,7°c and could reach up to 88,4°c/189,9°f up to 191,1°f (that was mainly due to the oil cooler, has nothing to do with the heater bypass) and the intake temperature in the manifold fell drastically down also, from 43°c./109°f down to 24°c/76°f (that was mainly due to bypassing the throttle body heat) at standstill and idling with outside temp. at 12°c/54°f, that is a reduction of approximately 61 to 65% from the start, without the oil cooler and air intake mods, when the manifold inside heat was at 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f, with ambient temperature at 20°c/68°f. The easiest way to do this bypass is simply; loosen both of the water hoses from the throttle body and also the shorter hose to from the metal pipe. Through away the shorter one and reconnect the remaining longer one, to the metal outlet pipe from the engine, job is done and the water circulates its natural way through the pipes bypassing the throttle body. This heat reduction, gives me much more elbow room to tune the A/F ratio and timing amongst other parameters within the MS41. You can read more about my tackle with heat, with "Engine Oil Cooler Final Setup_E39_M52b25"
  3. V_MAX

    #4 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel

    This is how it looks like after preliminary work has been done and the next step is to add the new foundation for the spring clock. I got a hold of a aluminum epoxy "pudy" quite a remarkable stuff to work with. Aluminum epoxy comes in the form of finger thick stick that is two component and all you do is cut of a piece of it and mash it between your fingers, after that it is flexible and easy to form. Now you can apply it to the base stem of the wheel and then press the clock spring over to form it. After that, just let it be until the aluminum epoxy hardens into something that looks like a gray metal aluminum. This clock has two brass rings on it and most likely yours have only black plastic and missing the metal rings. Those two rings are originally used for a a steering wheel that was a built in heating element in the steering wheel. Instead of using these contact rings for heading we use them as two contacts to send appropriate signals to the automatic shifter through two carbon brushes that are mounted in a small hole or loop-fastener behind the clock spring, one for up shift and one for down shift, you can see them hear #6 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel Contacts One thing you should be aware of: it is all-important to mount the clock spring exactly the same as the old one or your tun signal might not come of at the right time, or maybe not at all. You might think that the middle part of the clock spring with the brass pointing down should be straight in the middle pointing up but actually, it should be more like 4° to the right. If you are thinking that you can just put the steering wheel a little bit crooked on column to correct this misalignment with the clock spring, then remember you have to get the car front wheels aligned. It is much easier to simply grind away the aluminum epoxy and start from the scratch.
  4. V_MAX

    The Right Side Of My BMW 2015

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    BMW e39 from February 1997, all dressed up and ready to rumble. This picture was taken back i 2015 and she looks the same today on the outside, except the air cooling intakes in the lower grill and the bezels for the fog lights have an opening to cool the alternator. Hear is the difference in looks from 2015, with pictures; New Grill & M5 bumper with functional air intake.
  5. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Sins I'm in the process of replacing all the rubber seals on the motor I decided to replace all 24 valve stem seals. As you can see the old one's are all worn out after 23 years of where and tear and definitely needed replacing. The easiest way to remove the old valve seals, is simply to sharpen a small screwdriver and chop carefully through the metal side of the seal to loosen them from the valve stem guides, that is if you do not have the right valv seal, "remouval tool" for the job like the valve spring press Valve Spring Tool And Valve Seals . For those who do not know it, then this little info; valve seals are one of the most overlooked maintenance in the engine and that might be, because they are hard to get to and time-consuming to say the least, but leaky seals can cause all kind of problems in the upper half of the engine, especially if the valve guides are a worn and thereby create a blow-by and carbon buildup on the valves and oil consumption that can lead to some blue smoke and oily exhaust. This must be the most boring picture ever, that I put up
  6. V_MAX

    Rear lights, led replacement.

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Final result, considerably brighter red lights. I'm not going to say that this is an easy thing to do for everyone. You need to have a basic nohow of electricity and how electrical tings work with LED and a lot of patience with soldering. Altogether, it can take up to 4 hours to repair one light but it is worth the effort, sins these light are rather expensive and we should stop throwing things in the bin, instead of fixing them. These lights are an original HELLA lights but for some reason they came wired wrongly (for my car at least) and burned out in less than an hour. The seller refunded me the cost of them so this was a fix of only £.10,00. for two brand new lights. Much later I found out, that there should have been two resistor boxes and wiring harness with these lights to compensate for the way the lights are wired up. What I did was, I change the connection to the way the old lights where, that is, they are now series connected like the original ones. Why HELLA decided to ad two resistors and wiring harness is a mystery to me, when the earlier setup worked fine for over 20 years, without thees two resistor boxes and an extra two wiring harnesses at an extra cost for the buyer. I have had the lights without the "new" resistors for almost three years and they have worked perfectly so far, exempt one 12,8Ohm resistor that I did not have at the time, had to be replaced in the middle of 2021. You can red some more hear; Replacing LED - Light Diodes In The Rear Lights
  7. V_MAX

    e39 Silver rear lights gone wrong :-(

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I was unlucky one night, when reversing into my garage and I hit a table corner that smashed the left light and made a deep dent under the light. Sins I had to buy new light I thought it could be cool to get silver original Hella rear lights to match the car´s Aspen silver color. It turned out to be a short lived enjoyment for half an hour, due to incorrect wiring from the factory, or so I thought, until I found out that these particular lights should have come with two fairly large ballasts/resistors and wiring harness that I did not receive with the lights. More hear; LED, REAR LIGHTS Burned Out, This was a challenge I had to figure out and in the end, I got them fixed for less than a 10£.
  8. V_MAX

    LED, REAR LIGHTS Burned Out,

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    You can see that something has gone horribly wrong. The reason? Well, when the lights where assembled at the factory they somehow managed to wire them wrong (found out later; actually they didn't), with the result that they LED diodes burned out but somehow the resistor ( 12,8 ohm) survived. Update; until the middle of 2021 when I had to replace it. What I found out was that "HELLA" wired the lights wrong for my old car. Instead of serial wiring, they chose to connected them as if they where only a set of 2 x 4 LED`s. and added two hefty outside resistors to compensated for the way the new lights where wired up. I later I found out that I was missing those two rather bulky resistors and wiring loom to compensate for this "new" way of connecting the LED lights. Why Hella chose to change to this "new" and in my mind complicated and more expensive way of connecting the lights, from the old setup that had been trouble free for over 20 years, I have no idea why Hella did that. After exchanging the burned out LED´s with new ones, I simply wired the new LED diodes up the old way, and they worked perfectly, without the two new additional cumbersome resistors.
  9. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    On the right are the new, "4 pole LED" (2.5-2,8v) LED lights. Remarkably, I did not have to replace the seemingly burned out resistor (12,8 Ohm) . Update; in the summer of 2021 I had to replace the 12,8 Ohm resistor, when I started to lose one or two LED rows in one of the lights. Otherwise the lights have worked flawless with my setup, without the cumbersome resistors that the lights should have had, if the LED`s where wired the "new way" from Hella.
  10. V_MAX

    Opening up to reach the LED lights.

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    First you need to open up to get to the lights. I tried to use a "Dremel" on my first attempt one of the light and it made a terrible mess, that went into the light housing and I did not managed to remove all of the debris. I would recommend using a soldering iron with a flat tip and simply melt the plastic, that worked fine for me. You can close the hole with a silicone sealant and the cutout peace to prevent the sealant from going into the lights. If you do not seal the hole properly then water will be sucked in the lights from outside and ruin the lights.
  11. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    The header is a bit misleading sins the hose clamps are missing. I put them on later and as a matter of fact, two on each end to make the hoses more stable and less likely to pop out of the fittings. If you look at the picture KAPOW! Fix? and Oil Cap Adapter and Hoses you see what I am referring to. With the entire engine tuning modifications the inevitable core/oil heat would build up in the engine, simply because there is more horsepower to cool down. You can read about what I have altered and change within the engine with other pictures. When the core heat in the engine rises the heat in the engine compartment rises to, and that leads to amongst other things a warmer intake manifold, ergo, that translates to warmer air when it reaches the head intake itself. Cold air is more dense, therefore we can add more fuel and add a good tuning to the mixture that will hopefully translates to more horsepower and who douse not need more power. The modifications where relatively simple and straightforward and not that complicated until it exploded in my face "KAPOW! Blown Main Artery, She Lost 2 Gallon of Oil In No Time! at all!@#/$*" I bought the 13 row oil cooler from a seller on eBay. The hoses had to be shortened a bit to be fitted snugly. Two holes "Oil Cooler Hoses Route" had to be made in the bracket that hold the water radiator for the new oil hoses. The oil cap adapter was bought separately from another seller "Oil Cap Adapter" . You should be on your toes when choosing the oil cap, sins there are some caps for sale, that are missing a vital part that goes into the hole at the bottom of the oil filter housing/canister. If this hole at the bottom is not closed the engine will not reach a full oil pressure. This hole at the bottom can have two purposes as far as I know, one is; when you take original cap of, the oil is drained through that hole and the other hole at the bottom to prevent oil spill when you remove the oil filter from the canister/housing and the second reason is; if you have a pin with two rubber seals at the end, then the middle pin is hollow and it has the capability to bypass oil through it and come out at the top of the inside of the cap, in case of over pressure in the oil system. As far as I know, then none of these aftermarket caps have the cylindrical mesh that goes inside the filter itself and some of the caps use the inside part of the original cap, in conjunction with the aftermarket one. If you shorten the hoses, remember to keep as much constant inward pressure on the hose as you possibly can, while tightening the nut it self. Still, I'm not 100% secure with this setup and need to find a good solution to prevent the hoses to come loos under pressure. Word of warning, these fittings are not so safe if you do not take time and care My issues with the fresh intake-air heat in the intake manifold and the engine was, that it reached 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f air temp. measured inside the manifold, at standstill and idling, with outside temperature at 20°c/68°f. To tackle this heat buildup I had two simple choices. Ether more cold air from the outside or external oil cooler. I opted for both solutions and the results where that the core heat (mostly the heat of the oil) of the engine dropped from 103°c to 93°c/217°f to199°f, ruffly10% lower and air temp inside the manifold from 62°c. down to 43°c./144°f down to 109°f., or 31%. Now, that might not seem a lot, but then this is measured at standstill and idling. When driving the numbers get much better. Sins writing this in September 2021 I have deleted the heat "Deletion Of The Throttle Body Heater" that goes into the throttle housing, with even better results regarding the manifold heat, just by deleting the throttle body heater. After the delete/bypass of the throttle body heater the intake temperature fell drastically down from 43°c./109°f down to 24°c/76°f at standstill and idling with ambient temp. at 12°c/54°f, that is an additional heat reduction of approximately 44%. without taking intro consideration the difference in the ambient temperature of 8°c/46°f. at standstill and idling. This heat reduction, gives me much more elbow room to tune the A/F ratio and timing. You can read more about the throttle body heat with "Deletion Of The Throttle Body Heater". All in all, heat reduction inside the manifold went from 62° - 70°c /144° - 158°f down to 24°c/76°f that is a reduction of 61 - 65% from the start, with all the modifications regarding manifold temperature reduction. Summa summarium; Engine heat doped down by 10% measured at standstill and idling. Air inside the manifold doped by 61 - 65% measured at standstill and idling. The original air intake plastic tunnel retrieved the intake air all the way in front of the water radiator from the left middle of the front bracket and actually, partly sucking air from the inside of the engine compartment, where there is a lot of thin warm air. Take a look at picture; "Befor, Modifications To Fresh Air Intake" As you can see, I cut the intake "spout" over, to enable more cold air to flow more freely to the air filter box intake, in conjunction with an air filter box that has an additional intake from the inner side of the wing that leads to the wheel well - more explanations hear; Resonant/Air Restriction/Venturi Effect? . I am pleased with these results for now, although I'm dabbling with the idea of a larger oil cooler (no, there is no need for larger cooler). Now I can continue with the fine tuning of the partial bin. files, sins all the parameters have changed due to overall, a cooler engine and colder air intake. After the installation I opted for painting the cooler in mat black heat resistant paint.
  12. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I thought this little information might help if you experienced some strange electrical maladies, regarding your wipers or the turn signals or parking lights that turn ON or OFF by themselves, for no apparent reason at all, or they might stop working at all. These pictures were taken back in 2016 when I had this frustrating experience. My guess is that the ignition switch might not have been fully off when the key was turned to the OFF position, I will try to explain; There are 6 contacts in the switch that have 12 contact surfaces that can get fouled up through time and give an intermediate, false contact. These contacts work in conjunction with the plastic axle that pushes on the 6 copper springs. These copper springs get weaker and slightly bent with time, so it is possible for some of the contacts to be still ON or OFF after you thought you had turned the car off or on, most often due to fouled and dirty contacts in the switch and weaker springs that push the contacts together as well as keeping them apart in conjunction with the plastic axle, respectively. In the picture you can see the contacts, at the end of the long copper springs and the axle with the lobes that push on the copper springs that are inside the switch. It is clear from the picture, that one of the springs is slightly different from the rest, it is bent and the points are open when they should have been closed. What you cannot see from the picture is, that the contacts where also eroded. It is relatively easy to replace the starter switch and if you want to see how to go about it, then you can find good video instructions on replacing the switch on YouTube. Another related thought is; if the contacts give an intermediate contact after the car was stopped and key removed, then the ECU might not turn OFF and go into sleep mode as it should after 16-17 min. but, instead the ECU and probably the LCM module is constantly running in the background and that can lead to drained battery with in few days. Sometime later, after the wiper trouble that I had not fixed, similarly strange things started happening to the turn signals. The turn signals would suddenly come on for no reason at all, without touching the indicator stalk, or they stopped working at all. I change the indicator stalk for a new one and the problem persisted. Put in a new wiper motor and still the problem persisted with the wipers. I thought to myself that there had to be some common problem, for both the wipers and the turn signals to go bad, at approximately the same time, but what? Then I read it somewhere, that my problems could be related to the starter switch! Of all things… the starter switch? It had never even entered my mind, that it could be the ignition starter switch in the steering column, but it is logical when you think about it. After removing the ignition starter switch, that has an old fashioned "contact breaker points system" inside it, I dismantled it and cleaned the points with contact solvent and fine grit sandpaper on the "points" contacts, put it back in place and all my problems vanished and no problems up til today 2021. Later that week I bought a new Ignition starter switch just to be on the safe side. I would like to ad; there could have been other things contributing to my problems like for instance; a worn out indicator stalk, worn out wiper motor, bad earth/wire or connection or the LCM (light control module). Unfortunately too often, the LCM takes the blame for other electrical problems, that are not directly related to the LCM (that is in the LCM itself) but the real electrical problems (hysteresis) sins the LCM starts to send signals due to some other electrical failures, as if something was wrong with the LCM and consequently we assume it must be the LCM. The wiper stalk and wiper motor or anything related to these two stalks on the steering column seldom read the direct fault codes to the fiscal part that has gone bad, but instead it points at the LCM. It goes without saying that the LCM can go bad for many reasons but often, I think it is the wrong diagnosis to begin with and we go out and buy a new or used one, only to find out that it was just related to the LCM. I’ll give you an example of my personal last hick up, with the LCM code that happened the other day. I had two fault code readings at the same time; the LCM was not working properly and a HAVAC code (Heater Vent Air Conditioning). It turned out to be the blower heater end resistor "hedgehog" that had conked out. This time I was lucky to get two codes at the same time, although one was half false, sins there was nothing mechanically wrong with the LCM but something related to the HAVAC. After having swapped the blower resistor for a new one, (after 24 years of faithful use, it was a PITA to change with large hands) both codes where easily erased and my problems were solved with no more fault codes on the poor LCM or the HAVAC. From my personal experience when the starter switch went bad on me back in 2016, I got no fault codes at all, directly related to the switch.
  13. V_MAX

    Hotter Camshafts = More Power

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Yes, I finally did it!! Sins this is an M52 b25 engine and I did replaced the M52 intake manifold with an M50 I had lost torque in the lower rpm's and to fix that, I always knew that I needed new cams to repair this lag. I went for the cheapest option with some modifications and used a M54b30 intake cam on the intake side and an M50b25/NV (non vanos) intake cam as an exhaust cam. Both of the cams have to be modified to fit properly at a machine shop on a lathe to 2,2mm of the M50nv flange so the sprocket for the chain lines up properly and 5,00mm of the helical gear for the vanos on the M54b30 cam. Also you have to take a 2mm of the bottom under side of the bolt that holds the helical gear, otherwise it will stick out of the helical gear, I don't know if that is necessary but I did it to be on the safe side. The cam specs before my mods, where M52b25: int; dur. 228°, and a 9,00mm lift on both in and exhaust. After the swap with the new/used cams; ................... dur. 240° and a 9,70mm lift on both in and exhaust. Sins the stock M52b25 cams are 110 degrees lobe center angle on intake and 101 degrees lobe center angle on exhaust I opted for a 6 degree advance for the intake cam. The M54b30 cam has a lobe center angle of 122.5 degrees, so by advancing it 6 degrees results in a lobe center angle of 116.5. The exhaust I used (intake M50b25NV) has a lobe center angle of 101 degrees. This is the same angle as stock but because it has 12 degrees more duration a total duration of 244 degrees instead of 228, it results in a much more aggressive valve closing time. One word of advice if you are going to do this setup, be alert! There are lots of inlet cams ("M54b30") for sale that are not the 9,70mm lift and 240° duration for sale on eBay. It looks like the casting numbers or something else might be the same, for M54b25 and the M54b30 but the M54b25 has only a lift of 9,00mm and duration of 228° (the same as M52b25) If you are thinking of buying a M54b30 cam then ask the seller to measure the length/height of the lobe and it should be around 47,6mm, anything under 47mm is not an M54b30, unless it is totally worn down and therefore ruined and useless. When I was looking for a real M54b30 cam I got offers on two of four cams, that actually where not M54b30 but most likely M54b25 and I do not think that the seller new it himself, sins he asked me for info regarding how to be sure, if it was an b25/ or b/30 cam. Furthermore, the specs for thees engines are all the same for the exhaust camshaft, that is; 9,00mm lift and 244° in duration and and inlet camshafts 9,00mm lift and 228° in duration for thees engines; M52b20TU - M52b25TU - M52b28TU - M54b25, but the the M54b30 has an inlet cam that has a lift of 9,7mm and duration of 240° exactly the same as the inlet cam for M50b20NV and inlet cam for M50b25NV. Sins those two cams ( M54b30 & M50b20/25NV) match each other then it would be sensible to use them together, although both are inlet cams. The reason for not using both inlet and exhaust cams from M50b20/25 is that the exhaust cam in M50b20/25NV has only a lift of 8,8mm and a duration of 228° so they do not match, witch is preferable in most cases. For some of you that have not tried it before, it might be a little bit difficult to time the camshafts correct in, sins you can not use standard cam blockers with the "new" camshafts, exempt the intake camshaft it could be used hear, although I went for 6° advance as I explained earlier. I used 3D printed stop blocks to make my work easier and a micro meter but it is not that hard, ones you have the knowledge and right tools to time them correctly in. I am not going further into that hear. Sins you are in this process of changing camshafts you should use the opportunity, to renew all 24 back breaking valve seals. It is time-consuming and back braking to change the valve seals but worth the effort. You can read about it with picture; One Of The Most Overlooked Mantenance The "Valve seals It would also be beneficial at this point, to rebuild the Vanos seals if they are worn out and starting to rattle and it goes without saying; renew the valve cover gasket and a good investment to get new chain guide rail's sins they get very brittle with time and new timing chain tensioners. New camshaft/Vanos sprockets and chain is in most cases not necessary but not a bad idea, if you can afford it. I did not renew those parts. As is, then I would say that I am happy with the conversion and I got most, if not all of the low end torque back, but to get good results from this work, it is paramount to re-tune/re-map the ECU, otherwise things will not work properly and you only get partial benefits from this rather big conversion. I have been reading and studying RomRaider (it is a tuning program) for months on end, and finally I am getting “some” sense of how the Siemens ECU “MS41” works and how to tune, read and re-flash the ECU, it is complicated in the beginning but extremely rewording and fun, ones you try to understand how the brain of the engine works, through all the different parameters of the ECU into the physical world and mechanics of the engine itself. Finally, if you are wondering if the fuel consumption is up and out of wack, or that you will not pass emissions test at MOT, then don't worry. In my case, the fuel consumption vent way down to factory specs and actually ones, under factory specs. The emission vent down to and for the first time, the exhaust is totally clean after 300 miles of driving. But, and hear comes the big But, these fine results can only come to realization if you re-tune the ECU, to accommodate for these major changes you have made to the engine. More about valve seals and cams hear; Valve Spring Tool And Valve Seals
  14. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I was among them who stated that it would be hard if not impossible, to install a two stage airbag steering wheel in a one stage steering wheel car from 97' but on the contrary, it is possible without getting any red airbag warning lights. This is not a straight forward replacement but it is possible, by using the old clock spring, plus some modifications to the back side of the steering wheel by forming a new base for the old clock with an "aluminum epoxy" for the clock spring base, plus grinding/drilling and cutting a new hole for the plugs and wires and on top of that, you definitely need a new clock spring made for heated steering wheel, if you are going to put in a steering wheel with flaps. Hear are related pictures; #3 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel #4 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel #5 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel A one stage clock spring is mounted on the steering wheel itself, but two stage is mounted on the steering column itself. These are to different type of steering columns and spring clocks, also the wiring connection plugs are different. If this is done right, everything should work just fine, but with the sacrifice of loosing one of the airbag stages, so if it blows, you only get full blast in your face, instead of slightly less if you should get into a minor accident as the two stage was intended to work. I'm willing to accept a full blow and sacrifice the lesser one, not that I have any personal experience from airbags in my face. My first try was plugging into stage #2, red warning light that I had to erase but was unsuccessful. Tried stage #1 and ones again, I got red light but it was easy to erase and now everything works, including everything else on the steering wheel. That took me by a surprise, sins this steering wheel has 4 extra buttons that where not on the old one. This steering wheel is a little bit smaller in diameter and thicker in your hands and not as bulky at the stem, therefor it is easier to see the bottom half of the instrument panel. If you are wondering what that thing is in the right corner of the picture? I had an old original BMW telephone holder that I added USB charger to it and a fold up stand/holder for my tablet or phone. My latest steering wheel with integrated "paddle" shifter, seen inside the car; SSG-SMG Steering Wheel With Flaps in e39 from Feb.1997-/04.04.2021 and with the new Android display; 9' Head Unit
  15. V_MAX

    Camelpower vs. Horspower vs. Duckpower

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I simply could not resist taking this picture when these camels came to visit us hear up north and so far from home. I have read somewhere that a camel puts out 765 watts power and compare it to horsepower that only puts out 745 watts. Maby we should start measuring our engine in Camelpower or Duckpower for more power, just multiply your horses by 131,2 and vola! your 190 horsepower engine turns out 24.928 Duckpower Think about it! you could say to your mate I hawe 24.928 Duckpower! Strange and out of place animals to say the least Think I was far to long in covid quarantine when I figured this out in 2021.
  16. V_MAX

    My Cat Got A Case Of Tunnel Vision

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    This was my curious cat "Bee" she past away a year later after this picture was taken in 2014.
  17. V_MAX

    Stainless Steel headers With X-Pipes

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    In this picture from 2015 you can see the exhaust setup with the X-pipe ahead of the two free-flow catalytic converters. It is hard to see in this picture but the X-pipe have a considerably large opening/flow between the exhaust pipes than it appears on the picture. If you ask; what is the purpose of the X-pipe? then the simple answer is; the X_pipe actually connects both banks (especially with V engines) of the engine, or more specific in general; the X-pipe balances the flow of the exhaust from each cylinder and therefor it can help with scavenging and increasing the overall flow of the exhaust gases from the engine. X-pipe is somewhat like an equalizer that balances the cylinders exhaust to help by creating a negative wave, for a better flow throughout the exhaust. X-pipes also change the sound of the exhaust. In my case it got deeper at low Rpm´s and raspier at higher Rpm´s. This picture is possibly better to see the X-pipe; Protection Undercarriage Cover Plates This is all stainless steel 2,5inc. through out coming from aftermarket headers. This setup is till the same today in Dec. 2021 and no sign of rust or fatigue.
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    Rear Camera.

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    I always wanted to get a backup camera and finally jumped in and installed a rear camera that had integrated camera, in the boot opening handle itself. This way I have full lights on the number plate, instead of half light on one side. I did have some problems, by loosing the signal from the camera with "no signal" sign on the screen. To work around that, I had to put in a relay for a direct 12v current to the camera from the car, instead of using the 12v from the back up light wire. I figure, that if we use the 12v from the backup light it confuses the cars LCM module sins it is always checking for the right current, throughout the wiring to the lights. I used the back light wire only to trigger the relay. After this improvement by installing the relay, I have not had any problems with the display. The camera is almost invisible unless you look for it sins it is integrated, into the boot opening handle itself. More about the head unit hear; 9' Head Unit and Two Stage Airbag On One Stage Configuration.
  19. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    In case, as I experienced when I mistakenly bought a two stage airbag steering wheel, instead of one stage for my car, I would like to give this advice to any one who is thinking of getting a new or refurbished steering wheel. These are two different type of steering wheels, on the left is a one stage airbag wheel and on the right is a two stage airbag wheel. It is nearly impossible to put a two stage wheel, in a car that was born with one stage steering wheel without some major modifications. My advice and 2c, do not try to attempt to do that conversion, unless you have a good understanding on reprogramming the ECU bin. files, (that is if you decide to convert it to a functional two stage airbag car) and a fairly good understanding of your car wiring. So far, I have not heard of anyone that has made this conversion 100% to the specs and correct......> BUT, there is an "easier" way around this, by scarifying one of the stages of the airbag, thereby it becomes a one stage airbag steering wheel, like the one you have in the older BMW´s like mine from 1997. You can read more with; Two Stage Airbag On One Stage Configuration. Sins writing this above in 2016, I have installed the two stage steering wheel, back in late 2018 and I got it to works perfectly as an one stage air bag steering wheel. Everything works perfectly, including all the control buttons, without getting the red airbag warning light! and again in late 2020 I installed ones again a "new", two stage steering wheel with shifter flaps, with the same positive results You can read more about how to make this changeover with other pictures and "info" I have in my portfolio. #3 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel #4 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel #5 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel
  20. From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Wishful thinking? This is what I would like to see on my speedo Actually, this is one of two Ohm resistant measurements for one of the steering wheel flap/pad, the up shift gives you a Ohm reading of 1008 Ohm with the resistors on the electrical boards in the flaps. That is why I had to remove the two tiny 2mm (if I remember right, then I think it was 2 resistors on one of them and only 1 on the other) resistors on each circuit board to fully separate the connection to get two clear signal-poles for up and downshift with less than 0.04 Ohm. All bells and whistles worked fully as intended on the steering wheel, that is, both paddles work the same way. When you pull on the flap it shifts into a higher gear and push on the top for downshifting. It was my chose to have it this way but I could easily have made a split, so that one paddle would have a downshift and vice versa. This a modified SSG that looks like SMG wheel with two stage airbag, paddle shift, steering wheel that is fully functional without any red warning lights on a one stage e39 from '97 that was borne/manufactured with one stage air bag steering wheel and no flaps. You can read more about the resistors with picture; #7 SSG-Circuit Board For The Flaps You can read more about two stage wheels vs. one stage with other pictures to.
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    Clean And Simple Sills+Comfort Seats

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Clean M5 sills and comfort seats with memory, heat and air adjustment in the backrest. The memory comfort seats where not mounted in the car when I bought it back in 2010 it had leather manual sport seats, but originally it came with fabric cowered seats.
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    "New" Larger M50 Manifold

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Engine M52b25 with M50 Manifold "Chip-Tuned". Actually there was a soldered chip inside the ECU module. It was a no good sun of a B.. junk "tuning" the only thing that was so called "tuned" was the "ignition base timing " everything else was untouched from stock. The ignition timing was completely out of proportion and sky high to the point where it would overheat the engine. Still to this day, I can not understand how the engine survived that heat during the summer time. I knew it was always running a bit on the hotter side but had a hard time finding the real reason. It only proofs, how good the MS41 ECU is when it comes to adaptations, but this was to much for it to adapt to. 10 years later I found this out regarding the bad, irresponsible "tuning" out of pure frustration after an unsuccessful hunt, for a reputable tuner in my vicinity, when I decided to start learning the basics of tuning the engine and ECU myself, instead of relying on others, that I could not even find anywhere close to where I live. It has given me a great joy and freedom to be able to read and write to the ECU and simultaneously given me a greater understanding of how everything comes together, in a fine harmony of power. You can compare it to M52 manifold hear; "The Old Considerably Smaller M52 Manifold"
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    Rear Door latch, cable broken.

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    The rear door latch-cable broke down. An hour of work and now I can open the rear door from the outside. This can be a bit of a fiddly job on the rear doors, sins you have to take the door handle mechanism of the door. The tricky part is loosening/unlocking thin peace of steel sliding lock that locks the opening handle mechanism to the outer skin of the door. Somehow you have to reach this sliding lock with a sharply bent solid wire or maybe the right 90° pick tool through an elongated hole that is covered with a black plastic plug at the end of the door when you open the door. This plug is a two piece plug that is to say, it is a plug within a plug, so be careful not to destroy it, just take the inside plug out first. It is much easier to remove the handles from the front doors than the rear, so don't despair if it gets a little fiddly.
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    Protection Undercarriage Cover Plates

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    When I finally found a good used protection plate for the automatic transmission, I decided to buy it and see what would happen. For some reason, then this second protection plate had never been fitted under my car from the factory. Amongst other things it duos is that it protects the transmission oil pan and helps to cool down the automatic transmission by pushing in cold air through the venturi holes in the protection plate and consequently thereby sucking out hot air from the top. After installing the plate I was pleasantly surprised, at the positive result. The fuel consumption dropped a tiny bit, but the best thing was that the car feels somehow more "tight" and solid and more stable at high speed ( over 100 mph.). I think that this cover only comes with the V8 engine and then again, it is different from the M5 cover plates, maybe they also come with the bigger 3L engine, I don't know. There is still one more small cover missing to make the picture perfect and that one should be on the right side, covering the exhaust pipes. The ones I have found are expensive for a small piece of plastic (50£ new) and they do not have the aluminum heat shield fused to it, like the majority of the other cowering plates, that I think is a must, to prevent the plastic plate from melting under the extreme heat from the exhaust pipes. It is a shame I did not do this "fix" earlier it makes a big difference in driving pleasure . You can read more about what the X-pipes are for with: Stainless Steel headers With X-Pipes
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    M50 Manifold On M52b25 Engine

    From the album: My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    First I had to find a good M50 manifold and modify it "M50 manifold and modification to M52" & "M50, manifold modification 2" so all the pluming would work as intended. I also had to make some minor modifications to the power steering reservoir and fuel rail bracket, no big deal. Sins writing this in 2015 I have exchanged the fuel injectors to 116,87% larger injectors, new larger camshafts, oil cooler, refurbished the vanos seals, renewed all 24 valve stem seals, 6 new coils, modified the cold air intake, bypassed/disconnected the throttle body heat, new and larger viscose fan and coupling for hotter climate, 2 upper oxygen sensors and remapped all the fuel maps, vanos maps, timing maps amongst some other maps in the ECU. The result was a better fuel economy and better emission numbers, more power and responsive engine and cleaner exhaust without a trace of oil or any black soot on the end pipes, all this was done in 2019 to 2021 and going onward with fine tuning of the ECU. Now that everything is taken apart it is a good opportunity to replace old and brittle plastic and rubber parts like the oil housing rubber gasket that usually is hard to get to. Obviously there will be some loss of torque with this modification under 3500rpm. but after that, there is a lot of gain in your smile . Unless your daily driving is mostly on long steep roads for longer time, then I highly recommend this rather simple conversion . The only way to compensate for the loss of torque is replacing both of the standard camshafts that came with the M52b25/30 with two new/used ones; intake cam from M54b30 for the intake and another INTAKE cam from M50NV for the EXHAUST sound crazy but that is the rout to go. You have to perform minor modifications on both of the replacement cams. (you can read more about the camshafts with other pictures, there is a rabbit hole, you should be aware of when buying a M54B30 camshafts, that you might fall into) more info. with; "Hotter Camshafts = More Power" After having made this conversion I found out, that I have kind of, maxed out my fuel injectors A/F, they where the green Bosch (0 280 150 415) capable of around 124,32g/min, therefore I have replace them with bigger "Bosch 0 280 155 830" (blue-grayish) these are newer type EV- 6 injectors without an interchangeable pintle cap. The 0 280 155 830 injectors are capable of 269,61 g/min, or 116,87,% higher fuel delivery capacity than the original small ones that I previously used from the start. It goes without saying that remapping the ECU is mandatory sins the 830´s have the capability of much more fuel delivery from the get-go. Consequently I have rewritten all maps related to fuel and vanos accordingly. This is where "MS41 Quickflash", "RomRaider", "MLV" and MS Excel come into play, to remap the ECU. You can read more about the new injectors hear; 116% Larger Fuel Injectors The final message is; do not change to higher capacity fuel injectors in hope of getting more horses out of the engine, it does not work that way, it only drowns the horses you had, to much fuel does not teach them to swim, instead of running. In most cases the standard injectors that came with the engine are cable of delivering more than enough fuel, despite some minor tuning. Larger capacity injectors apply if you are going for a turbo or compressor or as in my case, larger cams, m50 intake manifold and headers with free flow exhaust and a rather small injectors to start with, capable of only 124,32g/min, and still, they might have worked out, but they where the older type of injectors and worn out, beside I wanted to have more buffer on the tuning if I would install a compressor or turbo. I say again; If you are going to do this modifications; I would recommend, that the ECU should be remapped/tuned by someone who knows what he or she is doing to get the most out of this modifications and with new larger fuel injectors you HAVE to remap the ECU, there is no way around it. You can just let it be as is, with the standard tuned ECU with only the M50 manifold swap and the current fuel injectors and you will get some adaptation up to a certain point from the ECU, but not the full benefits as by remapping of the ECU accordingly, to the new larger intake manifold. All I need now is a COMPRESSOR
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