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Posts posted by V_MAX

  1. Hi Ray112


    My guess in this case is that the ignition switch might not have been fully of when the key was turned to of position, I will try to explain.


    There are 6 contacts in the switch that have 12 contact surfaces that can get fouled up through time and give a intermediate false contact. These contacts relate to the plastic axle that pushes on the 6 copper springs. These copper springs get weaker with time, so it is possible for some of the contacts to be still ON or of after you thought you had turned the car of, most often due to fouled and dirty contacts in the switch and weaker springs, pushing the contacts together and keeping them apart respectively.


    Another thing to chew on is, that if the contacts give an intermediate contact after the car was stopped and key removed, then the ECU might not turn of and go into sleep mode as it should after 16-17 min. but, instead the ECU and probably the LCM is constantly running in the background and that can lead to drained the battery in few days.


    From my experience and my two BMW mechanical friends; when you have fouled or dirty contacts or relays related to the lights and other electrical parts, it can lead to wrong/false signals sent to the LCM. 



  2. Let’s be civilized on this forum, it doesn’t cost a penny to be civilized and we are only trying to help you to remedy your problem with the car.

    First of all, I do not think that it is the LMC module but I will stick with the ignition switch and as I mentioned earlier; “it could be the indicator switch,/indicator leveler”  and with capital letters; I do have the experience of malfunction with the ignition switch regarding irregularities with lights and the wipers and I have both fixed and replaced one for a new one and my problems were solved.  

    Second; I’m out of this discussion.

  3. Final thought for you; the ignition switch both turners electricity on, as well as of, and when you have turned the ignition switch OF the ECU is programmed to drive certain parameters within the ECU and other modules (like the light module) on for the next 16 minutes after you turned the car of and this has nothing to do with Voodoo, this has to do with programming that might seem like a Voodoo to most of us.

    Try to think of it, as when you turned the ignition switch of and it was broken, so actually it only partially turned off the connection, the same goes for when you turned it on and then intermediately it gives falls contacts due to bad connection.  

    If you are driving and the wipers or indicator lights do or don’t turn of randomly, then the culprit most likely is the starter switch, it must be worn or dirty and that leads to wrong signals sent to amongst other things, to the light module and the ECU, it duos not take much to let it go wrong.

    The ignition switch is most often overlooked when these “weird maladies” happens. I’m not trying to be rude to you, but obviously you are trying to diagnose the trouble without listening to others experience, or what? 

  4. From my experience, Duncan is most likely right (“The ignition switch can give weird maladies and presumably the light control module could be a consideration”)  like the wipers start to act up by stopping at random stage, it is not that hard to replace the ignition switch, you can find information on YouTube. You could also just take the switch out and refurbish it with fine sandpaper or buy new one for peanuts.

  5. Unless you have been in an accident then I don't think it is the steerin rack. If you can find a continusly bad road, like mud road, you will hear and feel a little rattle due to worn teeth in the rack. Usually, if the car is tight and sturdy in the front then it will get more sencetiv at the back and eaven through the rear dangurasly to one side under bad sercumstances. I almost lost my e39  at 75, 80 (I know I was driving to fast) in heave rain storm, the reason  was bad and worn, old ruber bushings at back bribge.

    Note of advice; do not change one side only, always change them in pairs and a good meccaniker can spot them easily by lifting the car up and juggle around with a bar. After you get it fixed you need a new lin up, both rear and front. 

    Hope this helps you :)

  6. Actually, I had the same problem lights as you are experiencing (plus the ABS would engage at slow speed) after changing all for wheel bearings and it was a nightmare to figure out, but at the end it was fixed and no more warning lights. In the beginning I thought it might be the abs/speedo sensors and as it turned out after all the work, it was apart of the problem as well as one of the new wheel bearings. I soon realised that it would take a long time to figure this problem out without a floor mounted roller tester like they have at shops. The mechanics got a constant reading of a faulty ABS pump module, but in fact it was nothing wrong with it, in fact it was one of the "magnetic sensors" that was some how missalined, to near or to far from the qrown on the wheel bering on one of the rear wheel bearing and one of the front bearing crown had a tiny nick in the crown.

    The best part in your bad situation is that you lost the speedo that indicates to me that it can be a ABS/speedo sensor, sins one of the sensors also reads speed for your speedo (can't remember witch one it is). The fact is that when it comes to ABS related problems like yours then most likely you have to visit a good shop with floor mounted test rollers other vice it is a time consuming and frustrating hit and miss to figure it out, sins there are so many things that can couse a faulty reading eaven on the best of equipments as I found out and felt on my wallet. I hope you figure this out and let us amaturs know?


    Sendt fra min SM-T800 med Tapatalk



  7. You bet I did but it was not a as easy as you might think sins they where ment for RH car, so I had to convert the R. to L. by taking the undercarriage and switch them plus reroute the wires and find a new control box for both L and right side. I used Reymonds instructions to do it. The only thing I have not done is hooking up the memory all wiring is ready but I can't find the connection to the red/blue wire to the P-bus and I'm afraid to take the chance.

    I noticed you have the small radio antena, my rubbery part is in tatters so that is also of interest.


    Sendt fra min SM-T800 med Tapatalk



  8. Hi,

    I think I understand your discription of your trouble, what you are saying is that if you turn the ignition of while the wipers are engage they will stop emetyetly anywhere and next time you start up the car, they will not go to park potion. If that is the case then there are five possebilitys;

    Firstly it could be that the wiper motor has bad electrical connection 

    The wiper motor is simply worn out 

    The indicator stalk on the steering colum is defect

    And lastly is the starter svitch on the steering colum that needs to bee change for a new one, if the bottom half of the switch is worn out all kind of  crazy electrical problems can accrue,  

    I almost forgot, there are som relays on the right upper side under the black lum/fuse box, sometimes they go bad.

    If you are going to put a new motor in then do not buy cheep aftermarket China junk on ebay rather find a used OE other vice you will have even more troubles to figure out.

    My bet is on the motor number one and number two is the bottom half of the starter switch.

    I hope this helps you.

  9. Regarding your electrical problems:

    Oddly enough, then this problems stems from one culprit, in most cases it is the “ignition starter switch, pn.: 32 6 901 961” that is on the steering column, (or simply a loos wiring). Inside it are contacts that through the years build up carbon and dirt. You can possibly take it apart and use a 1000 grid sandpaper and try to uneven the pits or put in a new one. This takes an hour to do properly,and it is not hard to do.  Hear is a link for you on YouTube;  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQPiShdsa_U

    Best of luck