Jump to content

V_MAX

Members
  • Content count

    86
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

1 Follower

About V_MAX

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 02/24/1916

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denmark
  • Interests
    All e39 from the rubber to the roof and all in-between.
  • Occupation
    Movie business and optician

Garage

  • Garage
    BMW e39, 523i, 1997

Recent Profile Visitors

2,033 profile views
  1. V_MAX

    My 523i

    This is an 24 year old BMW e39 523i, automatic from Feb. 1997 with 286.000 km./178.000 miles on the clock with the original engine, that I bought back in 2010. The reason for me being hear, is based on my wish to keep a diary or log, of what upgrades and repairs I have and will be making in the future, on my car, if it turnes out to be of any help to you or inspiration for fellow Bimmers, then that is even better. Here are some of the things that have been repaired and changed through the years; Bought the car as an "chip tuned". Yes, there was an old fashioned chip, soldered in the ECU and when I read the bin file in 2020 I could see what "they" did to the ECU. The ONLY! thing they change was the timing, they turned it way, way up to the point where it actually would over heat and hurt the engine, what a crappie way to pretend to tune an engine, this I have fixed with an new used Siemens ms41 ECU and currently work in progress with constant overall tuning of the engine due to all the changes I have made. M50 manifold, stainless steel headers and exhaust with X pipes, M5 front bumper, wings with integrated café grills, 18” wheels and Ac-Schnitzer components. Best off all are the much smaller and sleeker Ac-Schnitzer mirrors. The car has adjustable shocks (not anymore), Inside it comes with mat silver interior trimmings (originally with wood trim), and a new thicker steering wheel ( have changed it for even newer one look at the pictures), a new Android GPS/combo, a new gear leveler, electrical rear blinds and electrical/+air, memory comfort seats. Repainted in first quarter of 2018 after having 21 year old paint and some rust coming through around the rear bumper. The car was beautiful before but now.. New set of B12 Bilstein and Eibach springs (2018) that turned out to be much harder than I expected and first turn soft around 60mph.and upward. Automatic Back up cam (2018) Brighter LED head lights.(2016 New set of refurbished ( in UK) fuel injectors and all funny ticking noise disappeared from the engine..(2016) New set of fuel injectors Bosch 280155830, 49% larger than the original ones and remapped the ECU. (2021) Put in 6 new coils, just to be on the safe side.(2018) New steering wheel with 2 stage airbag.(2018) Another new steering, SSG/SMG wheel with flaps (2021) Open functional bezel around the fog lights (cools down the alternator).(2018) 2020 rebuilt Vanos, new valve stem seals, hotter cams from M54b30 and M50N/V. July 2021, new larger fan for hotter climate and viscous coupling to dissipate some of the heat buildup due to higher HP output from the engine. September 2021 mounted 13 row oil cooler in the lower grill due to increased heat and HP at the same time I made some changes to the original fresh/cold air intake, with some surprisingly good results. Color of the car is Aspen Silver (922) some times it looks like "purple pimp" color. Best of all, no red lights and it runs like a bat out of hell from(1997 -2021) knock on wood
  2. V_MAX

    #5 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel

    That is how it looks after I fixed the clock spring to the steering wheel. This clock has two brass contact rings on it and most likly yours have only black plastic. Those two rings are originally used for a a steering wheel that was headed. Now, instead of using these contacts for heading the steering wheel I use them as two contacts to send appropriate signals to the automatic through two carbon brushes that are mounted in a smal hole or loop-fastener behind the clock spring, one for up shift and one for down shift. One thing you schold be aware of: it is Imperative to mount the clock spring exactly the same as the old one, otherwise your tun signal might not come of at the right time or maby not at all. You might think that the middle part of the clock spring with the brass pointing up schould be straight in the middle, pointing 90° up but actually it schould be more like 94° or 4° to the right. If you are thinking that you can just put the steering wheel a little bit crooket on to correct this, then remember you have to get the car front wheels alined. It is much easyer to simply grind away the aluminium epoxy and start again.
  3. V_MAX

    #4 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel

    This is how it looks like after preliminary work has been done and next step is to add the new foundation for the spring clock. I got hold of a aluminium epoxy "puddy" quite a remarkable stuff to work with. Aluminium epoxy comes in the form of finger thick stick that is two component and all you do is cut of a pice of it and maschash it between your fingers, after that it is flexable and easy to form. All you have to do is apply it to the base stem of the wheel and then press the clock spring over it and then just let it be until the aluminium epoxy turnes into something that looks like a metal aluminium. This clock has two brass rings on it and most likly yours have only black plastic. Those two rings are originally used for a a steering wheel that was headed. Now, instead of using these contacts for heading we use them as two contacts to send appropriate signals to the automatic through two carbon brushes that are mounted in a smal hole or loop-fastener behind the clock spring, one for up shift and one for down shift. One thing you schold be aware of: it is Imperative to mount the clock spring exactly the same as the old one, otherwise your tun signal might not come of at the right time or maby not at all. You might think that the middle part of the clock spring with the brass pointing down schould be straight in the middle, pointing 90° up but actually it schould be more like 94° or 4° to the right. If you are thinking that you can just put the steering wheel a little bit crooket on to correct this, then remember you have to get the car front wheels alined. It is much easyer to simply grind away the aluminium epoxy and start again. More to come....
  4. V_MAX

    #3 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel

    Not a pretty sight but newer the less nessery, to make room for the new clock spring. Befor you start drilling, grinding and cutting I would suggest that you wrap as much as you can the steering wheel to awoid small chrapnol and aluminium dust flying all ower. As you can see, then we have to take a little bit of the stem to in three places for the new clock spring. Also it dous not hurt to grind down the two bumps one with a hole in it, (at this stage they have not been flatted out) on the flat base of the steering wheel that othervice might strife the underside of the clock spring and make a skraping sound when you turn the steering wheel. More to come later........
  5. Great photos and excellent work on the car.

    1. V_MAX

      V_MAX

      Cheers Load master,  yous are not bad either.

       

  6. Unless you have been in an accident then I don't think it is the steerin rack. If you can find a continusly bad road, like mud road, you will hear and feel a little rattle due to worn teeth in the rack. Usually, if the car is tight and sturdy in the front then it will get more sencetiv at the back and eaven through the rear dangurasly to one side under bad sercumstances. I almost lost my e39 at 75, 80 (I know I was driving to fast) in heave rain storm, the reason was bad and worn, old ruber bushings at back bribge. Note of advice; do not change one side only, always change them in pairs and a good meccaniker can spot them easily by lifting the car up and juggle around with a bar. After you get it fixed you need a new lin up, both rear and front. Hope this helps you
  7. V_MAX

    Help, no luck with the trifecta of abs/dsc

    Actually, I had the same problem lights as you are experiencing (plus the ABS would engage at slow speed) after changing all for wheel bearings and it was a nightmare to figure out, but at the end it was fixed and no more warning lights. In the beginning I thought it might be the abs/speedo sensors and as it turned out after all the work, it was apart of the problem as well as one of the new wheel bearings. I soon realised that it would take a long time to figure this problem out without a floor mounted roller tester like they have at shops. The mechanics got a constant reading of a faulty ABS pump module, but in fact it was nothing wrong with it, in fact it was one of the "magnetic sensors" that was some how missalined, to near or to far from the qrown on the wheel bering on one of the rear wheel bearing and one of the front bearing crown had a tiny nick in the crown. The best part in your bad situation is that you lost the speedo that indicates to me that it can be a ABS/speedo sensor, sins one of the sensors also reads speed for your speedo (can't remember witch one it is). The fact is that when it comes to ABS related problems like yours then most likely you have to visit a good shop with floor mounted test rollers other vice it is a time consuming and frustrating hit and miss to figure it out, sins there are so many things that can couse a faulty reading eaven on the best of equipments as I found out and felt on my wallet. I hope you figure this out and let us amaturs know? Sendt fra min SM-T800 med Tapatalk
  8. Hi Chris, did you get the shipment cost? Sendt fra min SM-T800 med Tapatalk
  9. Hi Chris, Did you find out about the final price incl. postage for the left outside mirror motor? Sendt fra min SM-T800 med Tapatalk
  10. You bet I did but it was not a as easy as you might think sins they where ment for RH car, so I had to convert the R. to L. by taking the undercarriage and switch them plus reroute the wires and find a new control box for both L and right side. I used Reymonds instructions to do it. The only thing I have not done is hooking up the memory all wiring is ready but I can't find the connection to the red/blue wire to the P-bus and I'm afraid to take the chance. I noticed you have the small radio antena, my rubbery part is in tatters so that is also of interest. Sendt fra min SM-T800 med Tapatalk
  11. Jeb, and still going strong, I see you a lot hear and still selling all kind of spares. Well, I thing the left mirror motor is going bad so just in case I'm going to have one ready. What are we talking about regarding price plus shipment to DK? Sendt fra min SM-T800 med Tapatalk
  12. Hi Piper, I was wondering if you could provide me with the left mirror motor for my e39? Sendt fra min SM-T800 med Tapatalk
  13. Hi, I think I understand your discription of your trouble, what you are saying is that if you turn the ignition of while the wipers are engage they will stop emetyetly anywhere and next time you start up the car, they will not go to park potion. If that is the case then there are five possebilitys; Firstly it could be that the wiper motor has bad electrical connection The wiper motor is simply worn out The indicator stalk on the steering colum is defect And lastly is the starter svitch on the steering colum that needs to bee change for a new one, if the bottom half of the switch is worn out all kind of crazy electrical problems can accrue, I almost forgot, there are som relays on the right upper side under the black lum/fuse box, sometimes they go bad. If you are going to put a new motor in then do not buy cheep aftermarket China junk on ebay rather find a used OE other vice you will have even more troubles to figure out. My bet is on the motor number one and number two is the bottom half of the starter switch. I hope this helps you.
  14. V_MAX

    Electrical problems caused by water ingress

    Regarding your electrical problems: Oddly enough, then this problems stems from one culprit, in most cases it is the “ignition starter switch, pn.: 32 6 901 961” that is on the steering column, (or simply a loos wiring). Inside it are contacts that through the years build up carbon and dirt. You can possibly take it apart and use a 1000 grid sandpaper and try to uneven the pits or put in a new one. This takes an hour to do properly,and it is not hard to do. Hear is a link for you on YouTube; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQPiShdsa_U Best of luck
×