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V_MAX

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About V_MAX

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 02/24/1916

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denmark
  • Interests
    All e39 from the rubber to the roof and all in-between.
  • Occupation
    Movie business and optician

Garage

  • Garage
    BMW e39, 523i, 1997

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  1. V_MAX

    523i indicators

    Hi lowcadillac, You could start by taking out the switch and cleaning it and see what happens, also as you mentioned it is not that expensive and probably cheaper than replacing the LCM with all the hazel that follows. Take a look at this I found on YouTube;
  2. V_MAX

    523i indicators

    Hi Ray112 My guess in this case is that the ignition switch might not have been fully of when the key was turned to of position, I will try to explain. There are 6 contacts in the switch that have 12 contact surfaces that can get fouled up through time and give a intermediate false contact. These contacts relate to the plastic axle that pushes on the 6 copper springs. These copper springs get weaker with time, so it is possible for some of the contacts to be still ON or of after you thought you had turned the car of, most often due to fouled and dirty contacts in the switch and weaker springs, pushing the contacts together and keeping them apart respectively. Another thing to chew on is, that if the contacts give an intermediate contact after the car was stopped and key removed, then the ECU might not turn of and go into sleep mode as it should after 16-17 min. but, instead the ECU and probably the LCM is constantly running in the background and that can lead to drained the battery in few days. From my experience and my two BMW mechanical friends; when you have fouled or dirty contacts or relays related to the lights and other electrical parts, it can lead to wrong/false signals sent to the LCM.
  3. V_MAX

    523i indicators

    Hope you figure this out and sorry for the misspelling on the link, hear it is again; The Mysterious Ignition Starter Switch. Problems Solved
  4. V_MAX

    523i indicators

    Have you red this; The Mysterious Igniton Starter Switch. Problems Solved
  5. V_MAX

    My 523i Conversions and Maintenance

    Warning! ALL pictures and writing are strictly related to BMW and nothing else. This is an 24 year old BMW e39 523i, automatic from Feb. 1997 with 286.000 km./178.000 miles on the clock with the original engine, that I bought back in 2010. The reason for me being hear, is based on my wish to keep a diary or log, of what upgrades and repairs I have and will be making in the future on my car. If it turns out to be of any help to you or inspiration for fellow BMW lovers, then that is even better. Please bear in mind that, all I say and write, is purely based on my own experience and others. I cannot bear any responsibility of what you do with this information. Sorry for my bad grammar, I have three different languages in my head and sometimes I get a little bit confused. One more thing, I constantly change and update the writing that follows the pictures, as I get more inspiration/information on the task at hand. What you read today, may be different from yesterday. Here are some of the things that have been repaired and changed through the years; Bought the car as a "chip tuned". Yes, there was an old fashioned chip, soldered in the ECU and when I read the bin file in 2020 I could see what "they" did to the ECU. The ONLY! thing they change was the "Ignition Timing Base", they turned it way, way up to the point where it actually would over heat and hurt the engine. What a crappie way to pretend to tune an engine, this I have fixed with an new used Siemens ms41 ECU unit and currently work in progress with constant overall tuning of the ECU due to all the changes I have made to the engine. M50 manifold, larger fuel injector, external oil cooler, better and colder air intake, bypassed the throttle body heat, stainless steel headers and exhaust with X pipes, M5 front bumper, wings with integrated side airflow vents "café grill", 18” wheels and Ac-Schnitzer components with sleeker Ac-Schnitzer mirrors. The car has adjustable shocks (not anymore). Inside it comes with mat silver interior trimmings (originally with wood trim), and a new thicker steering wheel ( have changed it for even newer one look at the pictures), a new Android GPS/combo, a new gear leveler, electrical rear blinds and electrical/+air, memory comfort seats. Repainted in first quarter of 2018 after having 21 year old paint and some rust coming through around the rear bumper. The car was beautiful before but now it looks is better than new. New set of B12 Bilstein and Eibach springs (2018) that turned out to be much harder than I expected and first turn soft around 60mph.and upward. Automatic Back up cam (2018) Brighter LED headlights.(2016 New set of refurbished ( in UK) fuel injectors and all annoying ticking noise disappeared from the engine..(2016) New set of fuel injectors Bosch 280155830, 116% larger than the original ones and remapped the ECU. (2021) Put in 6 new coils, just to be on the safe side.(2018) New steering wheel with 2 stage airbag.(2018) Another new steering, SSG/SMG wheel with flaps (2021) Open functional bezel around the fog lights (cools down the alternator).(2018) 2020 rebuilt Vanos, new valve stem seals, hotter cams from M54b30 and M50N/V. July 2021, new larger fan for hotter climate and viscous coupling to dissipate some of the heat buildup due to higher HP gain from the engine. September 2021 mounted 13 row oil cooler in the lower grill due to increased heat and HP at the same time I made some changes to the original fresh/cold air intake and deleted the throttle body heater, with some surprisingly good results. Color of the car is Aspen Silver (922) some times it looks like "purple pimp" color. Best of all, no red lights and it runs like a bat out of hell from(1997 -2021) knock on wood
  6. V_MAX

    523i indicators

    Let’s be civilized on this forum, it doesn’t cost a penny to be civilized and we are only trying to help you to remedy your problem with the car. First of all, I do not think that it is the LMC module but I will stick with the ignition switch and as I mentioned earlier; “it could be the indicator switch,/indicator leveler” and with capital letters; I do have the experience of malfunction with the ignition switch regarding irregularities with lights and the wipers and I have both fixed and replaced one for a new one and my problems were solved. Second; I’m out of this discussion.
  7. V_MAX

    523i indicators

    Final thought for you; the ignition switch both turners electricity on, as well as of, and when you have turned the ignition switch OF the ECU is programmed to drive certain parameters within the ECU and other modules (like the light module) on for the next 16 minutes after you turned the car of and this has nothing to do with Voodoo, this has to do with programming that might seem like a Voodoo to most of us. Try to think of it, as when you turned the ignition switch of and it was broken, so actually it only partially turned off the connection, the same goes for when you turned it on and then intermediately it gives falls contacts due to bad connection. If you are driving and the wipers or indicator lights do or don’t turn of randomly, then the culprit most likely is the starter switch, it must be worn or dirty and that leads to wrong signals sent to amongst other things, to the light module and the ECU, it duos not take much to let it go wrong. The ignition switch is most often overlooked when these “weird maladies” happens. I’m not trying to be rude to you, but obviously you are trying to diagnose the trouble without listening to others experience, or what?
  8. V_MAX

    523i indicators

    I’m willing to bet that Duncan and I are right, but still there is the indicator switch, it could be a goner although it seldom happens. Hope you figure this out?
  9. V_MAX

    523i indicators

    Ohhh yes, the ignition switch can do many random things although it is turned off for the upcoming 16 minutes after you turn the car of, due to the ECU and other modules keep on working.
  10. V_MAX

    523i indicators

    From my experience, Duncan is most likely right (“The ignition switch can give weird maladies and presumably the light control module could be a consideration”) like the wipers start to act up by stopping at random stage, it is not that hard to replace the ignition switch, you can find information on YouTube. You could also just take the switch out and refurbish it with fine sandpaper or buy new one for peanuts.
  11. V_MAX

    #5 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel

    That is how it looks after I fixed the clock spring to the steering wheel. This clock has two brass contact rings on it and most likely yours have only black plastic. Those two rings are originally used for a a steering wheel that was headed. Now, instead of using these contacts for heading the steering wheel I use them as two contacts to send appropriate signals to the automatic through two carbon brushes that are mounted in a small hole or loop-fastener behind the clock spring, "#6 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel Contacts" one for up shift and one for down shift. One thing you should be aware of: it is imperative to mount the clock spring exactly the same as the old one, otherwise your tun signal might not come of at the right time or possibly not at all. You might think that the middle part of the clock spring with the brass pointing up should be straight in the middle, pointing 90° up but actually it should be more like 94° or 4° to the right. If you are thinking that you can just put the steering wheel a little bit crooked on to correct this, then remember you have to get the car front wheels realigned. It is much easier to simply grind away the aluminum epoxy and start again.
  12. V_MAX

    #4 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel

    This is how it looks like after preliminary work has been done and the next step is to add the new foundation for the spring clock. I got a hold of a aluminum epoxy "pudy" quite a remarkable stuff to work with. Aluminum epoxy comes in the form of finger thick stick that is two component and all you do is cut of a piece of it and mash it between your fingers, after that it is flexible and easy to form. Now you can apply it to the base stem of the wheel and then press the clock spring over to form it. After that, just let it be until the aluminum epoxy hardens into something that looks like a gray metal aluminum. This clock has two brass rings on it and most likely yours have only black plastic and missing the metal rings. Those two rings are originally used for a a steering wheel that was a built in heating element in the steering wheel. Instead of using these contact rings for heading we use them as two contacts to send appropriate signals to the automatic shifter through two carbon brushes that are mounted in a small hole or loop-fastener behind the clock spring, one for up shift and one for down shift, you can see them hear #6 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel Contacts One thing you should be aware of: it is all-important to mount the clock spring exactly the same as the old one or your tun signal might not come of at the right time, or maybe not at all. You might think that the middle part of the clock spring with the brass pointing down should be straight in the middle pointing up but actually, it should be more like 4° to the right. If you are thinking that you can just put the steering wheel a little bit crooked on column to correct this misalignment with the clock spring, then remember you have to get the car front wheels aligned. It is much easier to simply grind away the aluminum epoxy and start from the scratch.
  13. V_MAX

    #3 SSG/SMG Steering Wheel

    Not a pretty sight but newer the less necessary, to make room for the new clock spring. Before you start drilling, grinding and cutting I would suggest that you wrap as much as you can the steering wheel to avoid small and aluminum flakes and dust flying allover the place. As you can see, then we have to take a little bit of the stem to in three places for the new clock spring. Also it duos not hurt to grind down the two bumps one with a hole in it, (at this stage they have not been flatted out) on the flat base of the steering wheel, other vice it might strife the underside of the clock spring when tuning the wheel.
  14. Great photos and excellent work on the car.

    1. V_MAX

      V_MAX

      Cheers Load master,  yous are not bad either.

       

  15. Unless you have been in an accident then I don't think it is the steerin rack. If you can find a continusly bad road, like mud road, you will hear and feel a little rattle due to worn teeth in the rack. Usually, if the car is tight and sturdy in the front then it will get more sencetiv at the back and eaven through the rear dangurasly to one side under bad sercumstances. I almost lost my e39 at 75, 80 (I know I was driving to fast) in heave rain storm, the reason was bad and worn, old ruber bushings at back bribge. Note of advice; do not change one side only, always change them in pairs and a good meccaniker can spot them easily by lifting the car up and juggle around with a bar. After you get it fixed you need a new lin up, both rear and front. Hope this helps you
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